Tesla Model 3 Down: Won't Power Up, and is Inaccessible

[arnis]

9V battery will likely move the actuator.

 

[ölbrenner]

9V battery will likely move the actuator.

Video: Standard 9V Battery vs Model 3 Frunk

 

[RCardona68]

This afternoon, I opened my app to check on the Model 3's charge status. I noticed it wasn't updating and hadn't updated since before 7am, about 9 hours earlier. I went out to the car and it was completely "dead." By that I mean unresponsive with no lights or activity. Tesla was originally sending a flatbed, but because we can't get inside to put it into tow mode, we both agreed waiting for a Ranger to come on Monday would be a better option.

A quick video demonstrating what it looks like:

[[ Mod note: edited title based on OPs request to remove the term 'bricked' which caused a lot of debate. All that was known was that the car wouldn't power up, but what went wrong hasn't been determined (yet). ]]

[[ Mod note: if you want to 'cut to the chase' and skip forward we eventually got this message from MarkS22:

"Update 2:

I'm able to discuss a little more without speculating. The latest is that a firmware error was the primary contributing factor that stopped the 12V from charging as designed. A new firmware, which fixes the issue I experienced, was loaded onto the car. This appears to have remedied the error. They replaced the 12V battery (as a precaution since it was fully drained) with a brand new one and have been monitoring its charge. As of now, it's holding a charge as expected. Since I'm not in a hurry, I did say it wouldn't be a problem to keep the car over the weekend to ensure the the 12V battery behaves as expected over a longer time frame. (They'll let it sit there and monitor the charge.)

So, while it was unfortunate that it happened to me, I think it also highlights the power of the ability to rapidly update firmware in the field. In theory, this update will prevent all future cars from having the same issue." ]]

Sadly, the ancient 12 Volt battery technology has not been replaced and it should. On ICE vehicles even the battery icon purpose is not known by owners. Most, don't read the car manual. In an EV this battery is a weak link and, even worse, any issues, like yours, can be puzzling. Glad it was resolved quickly and without pain.

 

[MarkS22]

A 12V (8 cell) AA alkaline brick will last a long time. Produces > 1 Amp output, 2-3% self discharge per year. Might even fit in the access hole area.

I’m thinking you can shrink wrap a 9V, attach it to one of the leads that pulls out when you remove the cap with a nylon string. Maybe wrap it once with electrical tape around one of the wires. This way, if the 12V battery dies, you pull the wires out and have the 9V ready and waiting. With a portable jumpstarter in the frunk, you’d be on your way very quickly.

 

[insaneoctane]

I’m thinking you can shrink wrap a 9V, attach it to one of the leads that pulls out when you remove the cap with a nylon string. Maybe wrap it once with electrical tape around one of the wires. This way, if the 12V battery dies, you pull the wires out and have the 9V ready and waiting. With a portable jumpstarter in the frunk, you’d be on your way very quickly.

Pretty much what I was thinking ... Although hidden somewhere else is less risky for tampering, but I will concede it is low. Another consideration is foam or bubble wrap to avoid vibrations and noises.

 

[dhanson865]

I based that on a true story. A new Nissan locked up it's transmission and Nissan said it wasn't covered. After verbal negotiations failed, I went for the 'safety' argument. "Luckily, nobody was injured or killed due to this material defect in your product. If you want to litigate this matter, I will not be requesting the amount of parts and labor as a settlement. For the next 48 hours, I will accept parts and labor and close the matter. After that, I will no longer accept direct communications from your company. You will contact XXXXX at XXXXX and we will negotiate a settlement. I can be reached at XXXX for the next 2 days. Thank you." This was sent to their regional HQ via registered mail and copy to the dealership. They caved quickly.

They forgot a circlip in the transmission which allowed it to lock in 2 gears. They diagnosed it as a clutch problem. They replaced the transmission and clutch.

What good does giving them 2 days do, if it takes 2 days for registered mail to get there? Or did you post date it and leave that out of the cliff notes version?

 

[mongo]

I’m thinking you can shrink wrap a 9V, attach it to one of the leads that pulls out when you remove the cap with a nylon string. Maybe wrap it once with electrical tape around one of the wires. This way, if the 12V battery dies, you pull the wires out and have the 9V ready and waiting. With a portable jumpstarter in the frunk, you’d be on your way very quickly.

Oh totally. Without testing, I had higher confidence in 8 AAs vs the 6 super small cells in a 9V. Given that the 9er works, no reason not to go with that.

 

[Smelias]

Hi all,

I am posting this here because my Model 3 has a blank screen that is no longer responsive and only the main automobile features are in working order, such as the doors, windows and engine, but nothing else. My phone no longer connects, the USB ports don’t work, ac is out, etc. I’ve tried to reboot the system by holding the two buttons on the steering wheel, but I get no response, even with the brake depressed. This occurred after I went to get the car washed. I am hoping that someone on this thread has any experience with such a problem and can offer advice. I was originally thinking of disconnecting and reconnecting the 12v as a hard reset but I’ve read on this forum that practice is frowned upon. I drove home and connected the charger which still works, so I’m not trying to trubleshoot this issue myself. I’m trying to avoid having Tesla service it if possible. Just don’t have the time for this right now so any ideas will be appreciated.

 

[C141medic]

Hi all,

I am posting this here because my Model 3 has a blank screen that is no longer responsive and only the main automobile features are in working order, such as the doors, windows and engine, but nothing else. My phone no longer connects, the USB ports don’t work, ac is out, etc. I’ve tried to reboot the system by holding the two buttons on the steering wheel, but I get no response, even with the brake depressed. This occurred after I went to get the car washed. I am hoping that someone on this thread has any experience with such a problem and can offer advice. I was originally thinking of disconnecting and reconnecting the 12v as a hard reset but I’ve read on this forum that practice is frowned upon. I drove home and connected the charger which still works, so I’m not trying to trubleshoot this issue myself. I’m trying to avoid having Tesla service it if possible. Just don’t have the time for this right now so any ideas will be appreciated.

Sounds like it’s time to make a call to Tesla service

 

[arnis]

Possibly water ingress (windshield?) and module damage (firewall).
Or blown fuse (I know Tesla said they don't have fuses but they must have main fuses (big black ones somewhere, like near the 12V battery). Check the fuses (check voltage exiting from every red cable).
If it's not fuse, you can try disconnecting 12V for a minute, but it will likely not work.
And next step is a call service. Either ranger or service center.

 

[mongo]

First step is to call service. It's a brand new car. @Smelias doesn't have parts to fix it, even if they found the problem.

 

[arnis]

Well yea. Depending on fuses. Most are standard type and are available from moto-parts stores.
Though blowing the fuse is not acceptable anyway and must be permanently fixed.
Sometimes, Tesla is thousand miles away. Though not Model 3, not yet.

 

[MP3Mike]

From what we have heard/seen there are no user replaceable fuses. It is all electronic "virtual" fuses. (With the probable exceptions of the HV fuses inside the battery pack.)

 

[arnis]

From what we have heard/seen there are no user replaceable fuses.

It's possible to skip all those small fuses and relays. But modules, that act as fuses, those modules need input power. These input cables must be fused. Or there must be a separate module with powerful semiconductors near 12V battery.
For example Model S - these fuses is all that a vehicle with brains actually need.

Remember - fuses are for cables, not for electronics behind them.

 

[mongo]

It's possible to skip all those small fuses and relays. But modules, that act as fuses, those modules need input power. These input cables must be fused. Or there must be a separate module with powerful semiconductors near 12V battery.
For example Model S - these fuses is all that a vehicle with brains actually need.

Remember - fuses are for cables, not for electronics behind them.

Could be all in-harness fuse links. Not made for serviceability, but low rate of failure and low cost compared to to fuse/ contacts/ holder/ cover.

 

[arnis]

My heart will rest when I see the that place on Model 3 where big fat red cable divides into 5-12 smaller ones.
The same spot as on that photo above.

 

[MP3Mike]

My heart will rest when I see the that place on Model 3 where big fat red cable divides into 5-12 smaller ones.
The same spot as on that photo above.

Watch @Ingineer 's video. There is a black box near the battery that he says is the power distribution box for the Model 3. There is nothing in the Model 3 that looks like that picture from a Model S. (At least in the Frunk.)

 

[mongo]

My heart will rest when I see the that place on Model 3 where big fat red cable divides into 5-12 smaller ones.
The same spot as on that photo above.

From the recent videos, that place does not exist, at least not in that location. Humm, could have the ground link fused instead. May be integrated into the control module PCB since it should never need replacing.

Another issue is that semiconductors can fail resistive. Over current fusing doesn't help against soft failures that create high heat outputs. They need local thermal fuses at the switching devices for that.

@MP3Mike, you type faster than I do.

 

[arnis]

Should remove that cover

Ground shouldn't be fused. Not safe. And it can leak.

My BMW from 2001 doesn't have fuses for window motors. But I've tripped the protection.
Module measures current and also coil resistance. When current goes too high, motor stops (end stop),
if coil resistance goes up (bored people playing with a button) window just stalls for a minute halfway.
It also doesn't have fuses for bulbs. Transistors switch them on-off. In case of short, error code is saved
and bulb is locked out until ignition off.

But it has fuses that protect wires that power up those smart modules.

 

[Kant.Ing]

"The first responder loop is a low voltage harness. Cutting the first responder loop shuts down the high voltage system outside of the high voltage battery..."

tl;dr: Why didn't they place the low-voltage first responder loop behind the tow eye cover? Legacy or regulation reasons?