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Tesla Paint is the most delicate automobile paint I've ever seen

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Red 85d here, and I can confirm the paint sucks. Gently wiping a smudge with a soft towel has the potential to scratch. Rock chips etc as well. One month old.

As per the handful of anecdotes in this thread suggesting Tesla's paint is good.....maybe they're inconsistent and some people have defective paint jobs?


Will be looking to get it coated aftermarket... North bay recommendations anyone?
 
I used to hear the same thing about my Audi TT in black. "Oh Audi's are known for soft paint". It's BS. All paint now has to meet the same environmental regulations, it's not just California.
You think Europe has more lax environmental standards?

In fact I've read this on just about every car forum for every car I've ever owned.
 
My Black 2014 BMW had swirl marks from handwashing at a premium detailing shop in SF after its first wash. Likewise so did my blue 2011 BMW. All of my cars have had this problem. It's not noticeable from a few feet away but is noticeable up close. It's annoying but it's just the nature of the multi-coat paints that are being used now days. My understanding is that Tesla uses many coats of paint after late 2014.
 
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Again washing is 99.9% of what causes swirls... Its really easy to do it the wrong way... and it only takes one wash. Most car washes even with astons and lambo's there don't know how to wash a car with out swirling it up. @Stoney Audi's have one of the best paint jobs you can get on a car. Ceramic clear or "scratch resistant" found on German cars is amazing. Tesla paint has gotten thicker and harder but it because they changed how they are painting. I say this from seeing first hand with thickness gauges in hand, polishing them, working on them, over 600 to date. It still doesn't help if your not washing the car right, no paint on the planet is harder than dirt being rubbed across it. I actually notice this enough that I'm having a "proper washing clinic" free of charge at my shop next month to show everyone how easy it can be with very little water. I've fixed so many cars that were swirled up by bad washing, and see them every day. Improper polishing is the next culprit, and California dusters are not your friend. Tesla paint get marred from these things more than a Mercedes would but it happens to every car. And even if your perfect at washing over time you will get marks on your paint unless you park it in a bubble. I have a customer with a Black tesla I see once a year, and his car is still 90% of what it was the day it left the shop. He spend 30 min a week washing. I do apply coatings to cars and they are awesome but if you don't care for it... Well its like if you ran your battery to 0% over and over... Your tesla is not going to live up to expectation. And the coating protection aspect will be there but you won't see the full benefit and then all of sudden its just a "gimmick" in your eyes.
DSC_0446_zpsq1fq8wao.jpg

This is an example of improper washing damage, swirls. They are created by straight lines from dirt or material harder than the paint being rubbed in different directions. When the sun hits it shows a swirl pattern.
DSC_0570_zpsisxfhwij.jpg

Properly corrected show what it should reflect like. But even with this now being coated... Dirt is far harder and if you rub it into this it will scratch.
EE306C09-0C4B-442B-99DE-4433618C9D24_zpshtcfhpv2.jpg

Here is the big thing Tesla is guilty of... When polishing paint after being buffed they leave buffer swirls and haze on the paints. Not having horrible paint. I'm yet to see a defect free car come out of the factory with 30 miles on it. This is the exact same thing that happens with improper washing except on a much smaller level. The abrasives in polish much harder than paint so they are leaving a micro version of the same scratch pattern that looks like this. Paint care can be a bit a overwhelming but it doesn't have to be. With just effort and practice washing becomes no problem. I can wash a car now in 15 minutes(I might of practiced a lot) with out swirling one up. If you put the effort in, the results will show. Keep in mind less than 1% of population cares if their car is swirled up. Hope all this helps and I'm going to do videos and step by steps during the wash clinic and will post them here.
 
Nice tennis match we have going here :p

Wow, my 70D's paint job is probably only 40-50 days old now... that's not long at all. I feel like I've been avoiding dump trucks and semis for years :scared:

Though the whole cQuartz UK at home thing scared the crap out of me, I'm now tempted to go for a second coat before my first winter. I'll be brushing off snow with something at some point.

As far as the whole "soft" paint thing, I've never owned a car with this NICE of a paint job, and I'm going to try to protect it for that reason alone. A bird poop will not be kind to that mirror shine :redface:
 
When I recently received my BMW back from the body shop (fender bender), I received written instructions that included no commercial washing of any kind for 90 days. Only hand washing after the first 4 weeks. So basically, no washing what so ever for the first month.

Given how quickly the Tesla can make its way from Fremont onto your driveway, I suspect that even hand washing or commercial washing your car in the first month is a bad idea.

Disclaimer: I have no idea how OEM painting at the factory differs from a good body shop. It's possible that these instructions I received don't apply to factory painting.

By looking at the average delivery times, the paint should be cured by the time we receive the car!!
 
I used to hear the same thing about my Audi TT in black. "Oh Audi's are known for soft paint". It's BS. All paint now has to meet the same environmental regulations, it's not just California.
You think Europe has more lax environmental standards?

In fact I've read this on just about every car forum for every car I've ever owned.

Agreed complete.

I've visited and participated in car forums of many other brands: BMW, Subaru, Ford, Honda, Mercedes.

Without exception there are pages and pages of complaints about paint quality on newer models of every brand. The fact of the matter is that paint chemistry has changed drastically since old times (1990's?). This is an industry issue.
 
My dark grey metallic has no swirls yet even under a bright 10 watt LED, under bright florescent overhead lights, or under the sun.

Triple bucket washed with grit guards. Pre-rinsed with pressure washer. Then pre-soaked with clearcoat APC. Then APC blasted off with pressure washer. At this point pretty much all of the dust and dirt is gone. Then wash from top t to bottom very very lightly with first microfiber mitt rinsing in first and the second bucket. Each rinse cycle is squeezed outside of the buckets so whatever comes out doesn't go back in. Do these about every 5 sq ft or so. Then repeat with the next clean microfiber mitt. Never rub or scrub.

Don't use leaf blower to dry the car. That will just pick up dirt and dust and deposit it. As soon as I'm done rinsing, I pull it into my garage which is filtered and dust free. I use microfiber waffle towels to dry. Never rubbing hard. I use compressed shop air on typical crevices that leak water out and then *pat* dry. Do not rub or drag at this point because water that came from a crevice will have crap in it.

Wheels are last using microfiber shop towels. These are super cheap ones and they get thrown out after a single use because once they've touched a wheel that has metallic brake dust, you can never rid the towel completely of that dust so they get trashed. You can never put a microfiber mitt used for washing paint into a buck that has had a towel used to clean a wheel or you will ruin that mitt. Even then the mitts are thrown out every 6 washes or so.

The entire process takes about 15 minutes.

MS has full Xpel front and opticoat every where else. The opticoat is the main reason why the pre-rinse and soak cycle clears everything off.

Also, I don't wash often. Maybe once a month. Having a swirl free smooth surface with Opticoat seems to prevent normal dust and dirt build up so I can usually go quite a while before it starts to show.

I also don't wax. Not really necessary with Opticoat. Also, it's nearly impossible to prevent swirls with waxing unless you know exactly what you're doing.

The OP needs to get a new detail shop or do it himself.
 
My wife says I'm OCD. I've gone by Fremont every day that they've had the car just to double check that no bird droppings landed and were allowed to remain.

Actually, she says I'm classic Aspergers and I tell her not until I make a habit of the McDonalds and Burger King drive through :)
 
Disclaimer: I am not an auto paint expert, body shop owner, detailer, etc.

There is a substantial amount of discussion here at TMC and over at the official TM forums regarding the Model S paint quality/hardness (or lack thereof). I would like to offer a few observations (....in addition to my previous repeated observations/opinions regarding aftermarket coatings).

We know that there are basically 2 kinds of paints, solvent based and water based. We know that TM (and presumably other auto manufacturers) use water based paints. At the end of the day (...end of the paint process), we/they want the paint to be well cured and hard/protective. How long does it take for paint to cure, and how long is the time before you pick up your car?

If you are a US/North American buyer of an imported car (e.g. from Japan or EU), then one can try to estimate the time from when the car leaves the factory (paint shop), is transported to a staging area, loaded onto a car-carrying ship, crosses the ocean, get offloaded to another staging area, and transported to your dealer, who then presumably preps the car for delivery. Maybe no faster than 2 weeks, maybe up to a month? Obviously domestic auto production (e.g. GM/Ford/Chrysler and also Toyota/Nissan) have shorter transit times.

Once the car arrives at the dealership, how long does it sit before a customer accepts delivery? Days/weeks/months? How many of these vehicles are custom ordered?

Essentially all model S are built to order, usually for customers who are anxious to accept delivery. Some customers even make the pilgrimage to Fremont for factory delivery. Even those vehicles transported from Fremont to the East Coast are likely picked up pretty promptly. The time for paint cure on factory delivered Model S will be measured in a couple of days at the most. Likely the time from production to delivery of a Model S in general is the shortest/fastest of any auto manufacturer/make.

Once the Model S is delivered to the customer, now the fun begins. How is the car protected and maintained? Did it get an initial wash and wax, a careful prep by a detailer, a wrap or film, or a polymer coating (or none of the above)? Where is it parked? Pollution, acid rain, smog, soot, sand, bird droppings? If it was not 'protected', how was it washed? Commercial? Hand wash? 1 vs. 2 bucket? Wash mitt or maybe soft horsehair brush? If the paint is not fully cured, then even with proper wash techniques, damage can occur. Note that when I have had body work done, I have been told to not wash my car for 30 days to allow the paint to cure. How many of us have waited 3-4 weeks after getting our new Model S before having it washed?

Historically I have personally maintained my vehicles, using Griot's Garage products. My wife and I have driven a series of black Lexus vehicles since 1989. My current choice/approach is to have my detailing professional get my car ASAP, assess the paint/finish, 'perfect'/correct/prep/polish as needed (...very carefully), and apply a polymeric coating (for the May 2013 multi-coat red S85, he used OptiCoat Pro, for the June 2015 S70D Obsidian Black, cQuartz). We picked up the S70D at Fremont, and immediately dropped it off with him.

2 interesting side notes:

TM Factory Paint Shop--when TM bought the old NUMMI plant, they did remodel/update the paint shop. They are currently finishing up construction/debugging of the new and much larger and 'state-of-the-art paint shop in Fremont. We heard a talk at the recent TMC Connect from the VP of Production (military background, sharp and goal oriented). He said that they were beginning to paint some production vehicles on the new line, and expect to transition over the next few weeks to month, at which time they will decommission the old paint shop. The new shop is much larger, with far more robots, and the latest in painting technology. He did not discuss the actual paint or cure process.

When I was working with our TM DS on scheduling factory pickup of the S70D, I asked to not have the car detailed after painting, so that I could deliver a 'virgin' vehicle to my detailer. He could then go over the car, and possibly have far less work to correct any flaws created during factory vehicle prep, before applying cQuartz. The DS e-mailed me a relatively new TM legal release form to sign. Basically, if a Model S customer wishes to not have their car prepped, the customer signs away any right to claim any factory paint/finish defects. After reviewing this with my detailer, we agreed to let TM do the 'routine' prep, and accept delivery. Fortunately, the paint looked pretty good, so not too much correction needed. And, FWIW, even the aftermarket cQuartz needs time to cure (1 week before washing).