I wondered this, is there any way of knowing? Without using a fancy stopwatch, I don’t think I’d be quick enough to start or stop it within 0.2 seconds!!
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Sorry, I was meaning the looped supply will cause a delay in getting the charger installed.
The other thing to consider, is that in normal use, 5.8 seconds in an EV is probably the same as 4.5 seconds in a normal car (random numbers, but my rationale is as follows):
A normal car with clutch and gearbox, from a standing start, needs a really good driver to get the full 4.5 seconds realised. In the Tesla, it is just point and shoot. Even with an automatic TSG type car, the lag from pressing on the pedal to the acceleration starting is usually about 1 second, for the car to shift down and the start accelerating.
So, the whole 5.3 / 5.6 / 5.8 is in reality, much quicker than the same numbers for an ICE.
A normal car with clutch and gearbox, from a standing start, needs a really good driver to get the full 4.5 seconds realised. In the Tesla, it is just point and shoot. Even with an automatic TSG type car, the lag from pressing on the pedal to the acceleration starting is usually about 1 second, for the car to shift down and the start accelerating.
So, the whole 5.3 / 5.6 / 5.8 is in reality, much quicker than the same numbers for an ICE.
Katic1972
Member
No that’s worse than I was led to believe. I’ll keep you updated with any progress. They did say they had all they needed from me for now at least. I’m hoping my car comes mid to late December to allow the bureaucrats time to get their act together.
Simonix
Member
Certainly in a normal every day driving scenario.
Only chavs do 0-60 sprints every time they leave the house.
Absolutely.
For me, it's not a question of acceleration speed, it's a question of distinguishing what motor we have.
The new efficient hairpin, or the old performance motor.
Not because it means anything, or because I care about acceleration, but because I'd just like to know
Yeah that's what I'm hoping as well. I know Tesla won't hold off indefinitely until you get the EST loan, they might give you a few extra days. Hopefully I can choose my delivery date and I'll just pick the one that's furthest away.
ylexus
MYLR white/black/EAP/cash ordered 15/10
Chucked my 2019 discovery on WABC, Tesla trade in and Motorway received 20.5k, 21.1k and settled on 24k with Motorway, really easy a few select photos and a 10 min call sold within the day collected in a week ( which I encouraged as the Tesla wasn't in sight) money transferred whilst collection driver was here, no fees, no tyre kicking. Just the waiting is killing me now sold 19/10 M3 SR+ early Dec...awaiting text
Anyone with M3SR+ (19" alloys and Midnight silver) order made on the 30/09 directly with Tesla that got VIN source code? Tesla CS said expected date for the 7/8 Dec in my case.
Also wonder how much my trade-in value is going to lose as my quote is valid up to the 5th December just 2/3 before est delivery.
Also wonder how much my trade-in value is going to lose as my quote is valid up to the 5th December just 2/3 before est delivery.
ylexus
MYLR white/black/EAP/cash ordered 15/10
Both this quarter’s VIN allocations occurred on Tuesdays. So I believe tomorrow we may get our VINs in source code. Because two consecutive Tuesdays is not a coincidence!I haven't even got a VIN assigned yet. On the phone they said I might have one assigned in the next 2 weeks, but they couldn't say for sure.
Only every 5 minutes. Do I need to do it more often?
OMG !!!! Had you purchased it already ? We purchased our insurance with them. Last week !
Ordered on the 30th of September. I think we got the text to schedule the delivery on the 30th of October. No clue when we got our VIN but it’s thereWhen did you ordered it ? I guess everybody here is trying to put together a timeline
I’ve been saying it for months this Peugeot insurance is too good to be true.
Even if you are legally covered, in the event of Peugeot refusing a payout, do you really want to risk having to litigate them to honour the contract of insurance whilst you’re being litigated by a third party for money to repair their car and a number of other potential issues that arise from an insurer not paying out. (All whilst having a crumpled piece of metal on your driveway. When your insurance doesn’t pay out, your own damaged car is the least of your worries)
It’s never worth skimping out or taking a risk with an insurer - especially on a 45k car.
I rang them three times a couple months ago to check if they’d insure me on a Tesla. Each person laughed comically and said no, the only new vehicle they’ll insure is a Peugeot. Simple as that. Any other policy is simply invalid, regardless of being issued a certificate of insurance. (The bottom line is the certificate of insurance is worth nothing unless you’ve the time/resources/money to litigate in the event of it not being honoured).
Whoever has rang and asked if they would sell and if policies are valid must have had totally different luck. Which means one of us was told dud information - multiple times. Not a good position for an insurer.
In any case, the inconsistency between sales staff is a reason to “write off” this insurer.
If they can’t get their story straight pre sales, imagine trying to get them to honour a claim.
Insurance is a service that gets you out of sticky situations, it deserves extra levels of due diligence. Never skimp on it.
Companies will do everything they can do avoid having to part with cash. Your only recourse is litigation or regulation action. However, this is slow at the best of times, and I’d bet the time you need valid insurance is the one time you can’t afford to litigate, even if you had the money to.
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