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Where to put jack stands on Model S?
- Thread starter SteveW25561
- Start date
Good news, everyone! I just got this email from John. Key points:
1. He's offering a $20 discount to TMC members ($279 from $299, plus S&H)
2. They are working on a 2" x 3" rectangular pad with a center pin
Here's the email:
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John's email: info@jackpointjackstands.com
I'm down for the 2x3 now.
1. He's offering a $20 discount to TMC members ($279 from $299, plus S&H)
2. They are working on a 2" x 3" rectangular pad with a center pin
Here's the email:
====
====
John's email: info@jackpointjackstands.com
I'm down for the 2x3 now.
kevincwelch
Active Member
youlikeadajuice
P 9130
Any resolution on where else to put a traditional jack stand? The Jack Point stands look nice, but I'd rather not spend that much on something I'll rarely use.
You're right it is absolutely unsafe to work on a car supported by floor jacks only. Unfortunately no on has actually addressed the original question. The question was not to identify the jacking points but rather where does one place the actual stands. Unlike an ice vehicle there are not the typical rails. I've jacked many a car/truck in the rear using the differential and then positioning the jack stands on the original jack points. Unfortunately this doesn't help with the front areas. We have a very narrow lip between the edge of the battery pack and the outside edge of the car. Granted the battery shield is supposed to be 1/4", it's aluminum. Not sure if I want be supporting on a jack stand even with rubber protectors. Fortunately we don't have many reasons to do full body support at this time. Long term I will be the one replacing my pads, bleeding the brakes and then it will be a problem.never liked using suspension components as a support.
Otmar
EV Modder
At the risk of being OT, people who are using a lift on the car may appreciate what I did for security on my mine in this blog post.
Specifically here is how I added pins to my lift pads.
Specifically here is how I added pins to my lift pads.
youlikeadajuice
P 9130
Otmar, this project looks very interesting! Really enjoying watching the progress.
I found this floor jack the other day:
Powerbuilt® 2-1/4 Ton Triple Lift Floor Jack - ToolSmithDirect.com
It is only 2 1/4 ton, but it locks in place. It wouldn't need to support the full weight of the car if you're only working on one wheel at a time, correct? Still would be nice to have a point for a jack stand as well.
youlikeadajuice
P 9130
Jerry, is this the one you're referring too?
Powerbuilt Jack Stand - Tractor Supply Co.
I thought about it, but the minimum lift height is 11 inches...
Yes, that's the one, but on the Tool Smith site it shows: Lighter, cheaper and smaller than a floor jack, with 6000 pound capacity and 21" max lift height.
One of them is a typo, or perhaps there are two different models.
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Has anyone tried this http://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-62...=1390663078&sr=8-13&keywords=car+jack+locking ?
Claims to have a "Locking safety bar holds jack in place once raised eliminating the hassle of supporting a lifted vehicle with jack stands"
Claims to have a "Locking safety bar holds jack in place once raised eliminating the hassle of supporting a lifted vehicle with jack stands"
Otmar
EV Modder
Beware that it only drops to 5.5" according to the spec. That's what I measure as the "high" Smart air height of the bottom of the battery, and the spring car is only a few mm higher that that. If you were replacing a flat tire this jack may not start low enough.
youlikeadajuice
P 9130
That's the one I linked to up thread, except I found the 2 1/4 ton version...I ordered it and will report back how it works! There should be enough room to fit it under with the car in "Very High".
Otmar
EV Modder
I suspect you would if you have a car with air suspension. Very high will gain you 1/2" over high. But if you are trying to replace a flat tire, I wonder if very high would be enough for a 5.5" jack due to the flat tire being lower.
My shop jack is a Craftsman made of aluminum and it starts at 3.75", sometimes I wish it started lower.
I don't see the 5.5" as a deal breaker, but just something that may be good to consider.
Very high gains 1.3" over standard height (based on original numbers, I don't think the very high height has changed with the latest firmware).
In a 19" tire the sidewall height is about four inches from the bead heel of the tire to the top of the tread, but the wheel wouldn't actually go down that far as there is a 3/4 inch rim flange, an inch or so of tread rubber thickness, plus whatever stiffness in the sidewall and bead area remain. Very high is a bit over seven inches which makes the ground clearance five and a bit inches in the worst case. I don't know how much the very high suspension setting will push the wheel down in order to level the car when the tire is flat, but I suspect it's greater than zero.
The 21" tire should be a non-issue as there is another inch of wheel diameter.
Need to rotate my tires soon at 12k miles. I do lots of auto repairs myself and don't have Tesla's service package. Prefer to DIY if possible as I've had improperly reinstalled wheels at tire centers on prior rotation visits. Perhaps most shops will treat a Tesla with greater care but I'd rather not take a random chance if unnecessary.
I don't have a lift at home. Does anyone have a 1 jack without jackpoint stand procedure to do this?
Is it safe to
1. jack up one corner from under the jack point with a say 1 foot long 2x4 pad
2. place jack stand on the 2x4 pad f(won't be at the jack point obviously)
3. Do the same on the other corner on the same side
This following diagram seems to show the entire side rail between the front and rear jack points are stable resting points. However, I can't seem to find this picture with the yellow marked side rails in my Tesla's online docs.
Vossen Wheels: Tesla Model S Vossen Test Drive
I don't have a lift at home. Does anyone have a 1 jack without jackpoint stand procedure to do this?
Is it safe to
1. jack up one corner from under the jack point with a say 1 foot long 2x4 pad
2. place jack stand on the 2x4 pad f(won't be at the jack point obviously)
3. Do the same on the other corner on the same side
This following diagram seems to show the entire side rail between the front and rear jack points are stable resting points. However, I can't seem to find this picture with the yellow marked side rails in my Tesla's online docs.
Vossen Wheels: Tesla Model S Vossen Test Drive
kevincwelch
Active Member
I changed all four just using a 3 ton jack from Powerzone... Purchased on Amazon. I used no pad other than what was on the jack.
I will be getting jackpoint jack stands soon so I can actually clean the well, rotors and hats. This will allow you to do the front or back at the same time or do all four.
Personally, if you're just changing a wheel, I can't see why jacking up one side at a time is unsafe.
I will be getting jackpoint jack stands soon so I can actually clean the well, rotors and hats. This will allow you to do the front or back at the same time or do all four.
Personally, if you're just changing a wheel, I can't see why jacking up one side at a time is unsafe.
stopcrazypp
Well-Known Member
If you are only changing a tire (where the jack is only raising the car for a short time), I also don't see how just using a jack without jack stands is unsafe. Make sure to loosen the nuts of the target wheel before jacking, block the wheel at the opposite corner, and change the tires with the expectation that the jack will fail at any point (don't be at a position where the car can roll over or crush you if it fails). Obviously it's not safe to work under the car without jack stands or if you need to keep the car raised for longer periods of time.
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