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Robotpedlr

Member
Supporting Member
Dec 17, 2017
709
1,235
Seattle
I don’t recall. I disconnected them because I wasn’t sure which way I was going to run wires and had to also run ALP wires from passenger side to driver side. So I cant speak to that being needed for just the 12v (actually 15v) access.
if you are just running wires from the console to the footwell try without removing them first. But the wires were easy to disconnect and reconnect if needed.
 
I appreciate the feedback. I still have not committed to an approach hence all the questions. Trying to minimize risk; for every panel or connector that needs to be removed is another chance of risk.

Still torn between plugging into the 12V "cigarette" outlet running the wire under the charging area approach, the mirror connection or the OBD connection. Seems like all have their pluses and minuses.

My OBD adapter should be here this evening, and if it is not too obtrusive into the foot well area, I may go with that, but I need to see it first..

We have a couple of good reports from tapping the mirror with pins (which I have done on my two previous Tesla's) but I'm not sure how to approach removing the mirror cover(s).
 
We have a couple of good reports from tapping the mirror with pins (which I have done on my two previous Tesla's) but I'm not sure how to approach removing the mirror cover(s).

There are two plastic cover pieces. The bottom/smaller one can be removed all together and the larger one can slide down on to the mirror stem to access the wiring.

This video shows the model 3 mirror housing removal which is the same housing in the new model S. DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THE MIRROR BY TWISTING AS SHOWN AT 1:25 OF THE VIDEO. The refresh model S has a different mirror connection, and if you remove this way you may not be able to attach the mirror again without the help of Tesla service.

 
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alb,

That video is very helpful. Makes it look quite easy. My first thought was to place the pins in the back of the mirror connector but I read that that is low-voltage just for the mirror dimming system. So now without opening it up I do not see where to get the 12 V.

Then I read further down in the video description some trim pieces were held so securely that one guy cracked his windshield trying to remove it! Ouch!
 
alb,

That video is very helpful. Makes it look quite easy. My first thought was to place the pins in the back of the mirror connector but I read that that is low-voltage just for the mirror dimming system. So now without opening it up I do not see where to get the 12 V.

Then I read further down in the video description some trim pieces were held so securely that one guy cracked his windshield trying to remove it! Ouch!
I don't know where to access 12v behind the mirror since I personally removed the mirror trim to route wires that I brought up from the A pillar all the way to a blendmount adapter on the mirror. Removing the plastic pieces was an easy process and mine weren't held so securely that anything would crack. Of course use caution but I can't see how anyone would crack their windshield.
 

4SUPER9

2022 Model S
Jun 6, 2013
3,295
3,227
So Cal
Through another member in this forum, I tapped a wire in the frunk for unswitched access. If you remove the center panel, closest to the windshield, there is a harness there with about 3 or 4 wires. The purple wire gives always-on power. It is a 16 G wire, so use that size to tap. PLEASE DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK. From there, I ran it to a basic automobile fuse block that I bought from Amazon (there are many to chose from), and ran a ground wire from that block to a bolt that was easily accessible. I used 3M tape to stick the block to somewhere under one of those panels. This is probably overkill though, as I am currently only using that source to power my lighted-T. I may add some other fun mods later though, and have 5 free ports on the block to choose from.

I will continue to use the OBD for my radar. No need for radar to be powered on when the car is parked. I always prefer plug 'n play rather than tapping, and personally would never consider tapping the wires behind the mirror given that the OBD port is right there and a simple wire run up the A-pillar. Like I said upthread, the OBD continuous source has proven unreliable. The switched source has been perfect.
 

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Through another member in this forum, I tapped a wire in the frunk for unswitched access. If you remove the center panel, closest to the windshield, there is a harness there with about 3 or 4 wires. The purple wire gives always-on power. It is a 16 G wire, so use that size to tap. PLEASE DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK. From there, I ran it to a basic automobile fuse block that I bought from Amazon (there are many to chose from), and ran a ground wire from that block to a bolt that was easily accessible. I used 3M tape to stick the block to somewhere under one of those panels. This is probably overkill though, as I am currently only using that source to power my lighted-T. I may add some other fun mods later though, and have 5 free ports on the block to choose from.

I will continue to use the OBD for my radar. No need for radar to be powered on when the car is parked. I always prefer plug 'n play rather than tapping, and personally would never consider tapping the wires behind the mirror given that the OBD port is right there and a simple wire run up the A-pillar. Like I said upthread, the OBD continuous source has proven unreliable. The switched source has been perfect.
Someone who had installed a power frunk said they tapped into the same wire. However a local installer of the power frunk indicated they tapped a “red cap” that appears to be a terminal like option. Has anyone
 

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I was all set to use that nice right angle OBD plug from Amazon but thought it may raise some flags if I ever needed to take the car into the shop. The right angle plug was very unobtrusive and could be easily unplugged for shop visit, but it would just be hanging there.

The connector at position 4 in the picture up thread was very tempting as I had already removed the right side console panel. Before making a final decision I took a short piece of 14gauge into the large console compartment and within a minute or two found a path exiting the large storage compartment in the upper right corner which then exited at the right side panel that I had previously removed.

Since I had a 12 V plug on hand and black phone cord wire with a RJ11 plug I decided on that route. If I find a nice looking right angle 12v plug I may swap so it becomes less obtrusive inside the large console storage area. Other than that, it works great, turning on and off with the main screen.
 

Robotpedlr

Member
Supporting Member
Dec 17, 2017
709
1,235
Seattle
I was all set to use that nice right angle OBD plug from Amazon but thought it may raise some flags if I ever needed to take the car into the shop. The right angle plug was very unobtrusive and could be easily unplugged for shop visit, but it would just be hanging there.

The connector at position 4 in the picture up thread was very tempting as I had already removed the right side console panel. Before making a final decision I took a short piece of 14gauge into the large console compartment and within a minute or two found a path exiting the large storage compartment in the upper right corner which then exited at the right side panel that I had previously removed.

Since I had a 12 V plug on hand and black phone cord wire with a RJ11 plug I decided on that route. If I find a nice looking right angle 12v plug I may swap so it becomes less obtrusive inside the large console storage area. Other than that, it works great, turning on and off with the main screen.
Here is the right angle 12v plug that I used. It made for a cleaner setup in the console and fit snug to avoid it falling out like my prior straight plug. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TT1R9Q6/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_X0TW723NDNDPJEBT01HC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
 

4SUPER9

2022 Model S
Jun 6, 2013
3,295
3,227
So Cal
I was all set to use that nice right angle OBD plug from Amazon but thought it may raise some flags if I ever needed to take the car into the shop. The right angle plug was very unobtrusive and could be easily unplugged for shop visit, but it would just be hanging there.

The connector at position 4 in the picture up thread was very tempting as I had already removed the right side console panel. Before making a final decision I took a short piece of 14gauge into the large console compartment and within a minute or two found a path exiting the large storage compartment in the upper right corner which then exited at the right side panel that I had previously removed.

Since I had a 12 V plug on hand and black phone cord wire with a RJ11 plug I decided on that route. If I find a nice looking right angle 12v plug I may swap so it becomes less obtrusive inside the large console storage area. Other than that, it works great, turning on and off with the main screen.
Why would Tesla care if you plugged into the OBD? When I bring my car in, I just unplug and leave it visibly dangling.
 
Why would Tesla care if you plugged into the OBD? When I bring my car in, I just unplug and leave it visibly dangling.

It just could give Tesla another thread to pull on if they wanted to deny some kind of electrical warranty? As it is, my foot well lights are so dim they basically are not working. The light in the driver foot well is very close to the OBD so it could look like I may have done something to cause the issue. Unlikely but that combined with not needing the $10 OBD part pushed me over to using the 12 V socket.
 

doubleshot

'21MSLR | M/W,21,FSD | MF455 12/3
Supporting Member
Mar 8, 2021
1,173
3,721
Marietta, GA
It just could give Tesla another thread to pull on if they wanted to deny some kind of electrical warranty? As it is, my foot well lights are so dim they basically are not working. The light in the driver foot well is very close to the OBD so it could look like I may have done something to cause the issue. Unlikely but that combined with not needing the $10 OBD part pushed me over to using the 12 V socket.
From what I can tell. They don't really care and do whatever if it's during the basic warranty. They didn't seem to care about my ambient lighting or anything with my last visit for a bum door handle.
 
Has anybody tried to find 12v access in the trunk area?
I followed this link for tapping the power for the lift gate.

This descrives a pre-2021, but it seems like the wiring for the lift gate wouldn't be too different in the 2021?
 

mswlogo

Well-Known Member
Aug 27, 2018
7,927
7,383
MA, NH
Just posting a couple pics of how I tapped.

I was able to use a mirror tap cable.

If you look close there is a slit on one side of the connector that was just wide enough to get the blade in. VERY tight.
I also trimmed the blades shorter.

Not thrilled with how Radar Detector looks from the outside for prying eyes.
I might put a little splash of tint or something to hide it better.
I'd never run a blend mount for that reason. Stands out too much.

Other than that it came out good.

I debated running wire down to Brake Controller. Little harder to hide from Service if they poke around.
I can take the small cap of the mirror cover and tuck the whole wire inside when I have car serviced.
I don't trust ANY dealer voiding warranty on ANY mod.
I didn't like the idea of tapping the camera that is driving the car, but it was so easy and clean.

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