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Now that I have access to a refresh wiring diagram (tesla took forever to publish these), it appears there is both switched and unswitched power on the standard obdii port. The normal + pin, which is pin 16 has switched power, but Tesla used one of the mfg option pins, pin 11, as unswitched power.

I just learned this after reviewing the diagrams yesterday, so have not yet confirmed in my own car.
I just confirmed with my multimeter that that pin 11 does indeed seem to provide constant and pin 16 switched. Many thanks for this info. Now my next task is deciding how to tap it, either with OBD splitter or tapping the wires somewhere behind.
 
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I sound like a Nanny chiming in BUT seeing how Tesla operates, I would be concerned about touching any wires (physical tapping into) around to ODB at risk of them having a warranty issue in the future (IE you have a computer problem and they claimed you tampered with the ODB connector). 4Super9 is talking about a breakout plug that goes into your ODB connector and gives you the wires you need. You can remove the evidence. JMHO FWIW and please disregard if it is deemed as nagging !!
 
Or this. Ready to go !

OLLGEN 1.64ft 50cm OBD2 16 Pin Low Profile Flat Wire J1962 Male Connector to Open Plug Cord Auto Car OBD Diagnostic Extension DIY Pigtail Mobley Cable Adapter (Male Connector Pigtail)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WSTH5M5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_7K8GDKH9J4MY9V2HSTMN
 
FYI as some reviews mention this item is not as advertised - it does not have individual wires for every conductor so will not work for the purpose of cutting the other end off and connecting that way. Back to searching for a different solution.
Well, I ordered it anyways and it will be delivered Friday. I'll see if pin16 is one of the wires that are available.
 
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Somewhat on topic, but would installing an amplifier and a bigger sub be a viable option? I've always known that the alternator needs to be beefy to support the battery for hi-wattage setups, but no idea how that would work in a Tesla (22SP).
 
Well, I ordered it anyways and it will be delivered Friday. I'll see if pin16 is one of the wires that are available.
I got it today. There are 8 wires, pin 16 doesn’t connect to any of them. Pin 4 was ground, and pin 11 only gave me 2.4 volts. So I went with the green and black up by the mirror as a previous person posted (thanks for that info btw, sorry I don’t recall the name and don’t want to look back at the moment) I had 15+V up there and it worked for a bit, but I came back later and there’s no power. Gonna check it out in the am, I was kinda rushing and may not have had a good solder connection. Hoping that’s it anyway as I verified it shut off and turned on with the door close/open.
 
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I got it today. There are 8 wires, pin 16 doesn’t connect to any of them. Pin 4 was ground, and pin 11 only gave me 2.4 volts. So I went with the green and black up by the mirror as a previous person posted (thanks for that info btw, sorry I don’t recall the name and don’t want to look back at the moment) I had 15+V up there and it worked for a bit, but I came back later and there’s no power. Gonna check it out in the am, I was kinda rushing and may not have had a good solder connection. Hoping that’s it anyway as I verified it shut off and turned on with the door close/open.
So oddly I checked my connections today and they were fine. I'm now only getting about 3.6v on the green and black wires up by the mirror feeding the camera. Tried resets, driving, etc. So I'll have to find and use an alternate switched source.