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4SUPER9

2022 Model S
Jun 6, 2013
3,274
3,190
So Cal
It's located on the rear passenger wheel well. Behind/Right of the accessory plugs I installed. Same location as the older S, just an updated configuration.
It's unswitched.
Looks like it also powers the LTE and WiFi modem which is installed behind the license plate.
I use the socket to primarily power my 12/24V refrigerator and the USB-C PD receptacles are always on too so I can charge my laptop etc. while I'm away.
I really do not have a need for this, but I really want to do it anyway. Is something wrong with me???
 
Love this install @KevinY ! Thanks for pointing me in the right direction on this. I added a 12v socket to my plaid last night. I have the exact same use case, a 12v fridge that we use on trips. I loved the 12v in my X, but I had been supplementing it with a small Jackery 300, since that 12v was switched. It will be nice to not need to carry a supplemental battery in a car full of batteries.

I just want to verify with you that this 12v line is indeed unswitched in your testing. The car has been charging since I finished adding the 12v socket, but I assume you've had plenty of time to verify that it does indeed stay live all the time? I set off on a long road trip tomorrow, or I would have spared you the lazy question. :)
Answered my own question here, but it does appear to be switched. I am tapped into the same 12V and mine stops at the same time as everything else. I'd imagine because of the module involved, Sentry Mode being enabled will keep it turned on, unlike some of the other 12V sources, which turn off even with Sentry Mode enabled.

Either way, thank again - this helps a lot, since running a cord from the center console to the fridge in the trunk would not be ideal.
 
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Reactions: 4SUPER9
Answered my own question here, but it does appear to be switched. I am tapped into the same 12V and mine stops at the same time as everything else. I'd imagine because of the module involved, Sentry Mode being enabled will keep it turned on, unlike some of the other 12V sources, which turn off even with Sentry Mode enabled.

Either way, thank again - this helps a lot, since running a cord from the center console to the fridge in the trunk would not be ideal.
One more thing I noticed - this isn't a body control module (which was mentioned somewhere iirc), but is the audio amplifier. Source: Parts Catalog

TBD whether it is going to remain powered in sentry mode, but will reply here to confirm once I know.
 

Robotpedlr

Member
Supporting Member
Dec 17, 2017
696
1,219
Seattle
Does the switched OBDII port stay on with sentry or does it go off as soon as the car door is closed/locked?

I would like to find a power source that follows the sentry status. I may use it for my dash cam and want it off when at home (sentry off) but have it stay on when parked someplace and sentry is on.
 

4SUPER9

2022 Model S
Jun 6, 2013
3,274
3,190
So Cal
Does the switched OBDII port stay on with sentry or does it go off as soon as the car door is closed/locked?

I would like to find a power source that follows the sentry status. I may use it for my dash cam and want it off when at home (sentry off) but have it stay on when parked someplace and sentry is on.
My OBD shuts down instantly with closing the doors. Zero delay, even with sentry on
 
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4SUPER9

2022 Model S
Jun 6, 2013
3,274
3,190
So Cal
Does anyone know if the refresh S has a regulated 12 V supply? If not accessories need to be compatible with the 16 V Li-ion battery. Are most 12 V accessories OK with 16 V?
I don’t remember if I posted this on this thread or one of the others. My radar gave me a high voltage alert when I tried, so I had to splice in a couple of diodes to reduce the current.
 
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Reactions: GSP
Ok, I re-wired my Valentine 1 as I have found a better 12v source which turns off when the car powers off.. I cannot edit my previous posts, but If your reading this, I suggest you ignore my past advice on where to splice (the wires were too small and did not always give signal).. There is no need to run extensive wiring around the car.. simply tap into the green and black wire as shown in the picture under the mirror cover and your all set.. I stuffed the excess wiring in the headliner, and I mount my radar to the side as can be seen.. It picks up all signals front and back.. No issues at all with this setup..

Cheers

Positive is the green, Negative is the Black.. Straight forward!

image0 (1).jpeg
IMG_0461.jpg
 
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Ok, I re-wired my Valentine 1 as I have found a better 12v source which turns off when the car powers off.. I cannot edit my previous posts, but If your reading this, I suggest you ignore my past advice on where to splice (the wires were too small and did not always give signal).. There is no need to run extensive wiring around the car.. simply tap into the green and black wire as shown in the picture under the mirror cover and your all set.. I stuffed the excess wiring in the headliner, and I mount my radar to the side as can be seen.. It picks up all signals front and back.. No issues at all with this setup..

Cheers

Positive is the green, Negative is the Black.. Straight forward!

View attachment 751395View attachment 751396
Nice. I do plan on testing with a Stalker Ka gun to see if the windshield is causing any interference. It will be great to have a true switched source.

Does this switch off even with sentry on?
 
I am a little bummed that the OBD may not work as an unswitched source. And, it looks like the tow hitch connector is not available on more recently produced cars. So, it looks like we have switched by tapping into the cigarette lighter adapter, and the diagnostic port. I may use the diagnostic port as there would be no tapping of wires at all.

I really would like non-switched access for my Blackvue
Have you (or anyone else) figured out a source for both switched and unswitched? I've gone up and down this thread countless times and can't figure out a definitive answer for unswitched. I thought @KevinY solution in the trunk was going to do it but that turned out to not be constant (I hope he doesn't have spoiled food in his fridge). I'm also not keen on tapping that 8AWG wire he pointed out coming through the firewall. Also does the forum let you edit your original post? There is some misinformation in there now that this thread has matured, eg. the OBD port providing constant power.
 

Robotpedlr

Member
Supporting Member
Dec 17, 2017
696
1,219
Seattle
Have you (or anyone else) figured out a source for both switched and unswitched? I've gone up and down this thread countless times and can't figure out a definitive answer for unswitched. I thought @KevinY solution in the trunk was going to do it but that turned out to not be constant (I hope he doesn't have spoiled food in his fridge). I'm also not keen on tapping that 8AWG wire he pointed out coming through the firewall. Also does the forum let you edit your original post? There is some misinformation in there now that this thread has matured, eg. the OBD port providing constant power.
The option to plug directly into the 12v accessory port in the console is a Switched option (or even splicing into the lead that goes to it from the Passenger side footwell area).

I also understand (but have not verified it myself) that you can connect to the OBDII port in the driver footwell for Unswitched (constant) power.
 
The option to plug directly into the 12v accessory port in the console is a Switched option (or even splicing into the lead that goes to it from the Passenger side footwell area).

I also understand (but have not verified it myself) that you can connect to the OBDII port in the driver footwell for Unswitched (constant) power.
Other users have reported in this thread that the OBDII port is in fact switched.
 

Robotpedlr

Member
Supporting Member
Dec 17, 2017
696
1,219
Seattle
Guess someone will have to test it... I have not. But there are two OBD ports people are referring too. The normal one under the driver knee space and the custom/Tesla version under the Phone Charging Tray. I "think" the former is UnSwitched and the latter Switched... but let me know what you find.
 
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The option to plug directly into the 12v accessory port in the console is a Switched option (or even splicing into the lead that goes to it from the Passenger side footwell area).

I also understand (but have not verified it myself) that you can connect to the OBDII port in the driver footwell for Unswitched (constant) power.
Now that I have access to a refresh wiring diagram (tesla took forever to publish these), it appears there is both switched and unswitched power on the standard obdii port. The normal + pin, which is pin 16 has switched power, but Tesla used one of the mfg option pins, pin 11, as unswitched power.

I just learned this after reviewing the diagrams yesterday, so have not yet confirmed in my own car.
 
Now that I have access to a refresh wiring diagram (tesla took forever to publish these), it appears there is both switched and unswitched power on the standard obdii port. The normal + pin, which is pin 16 has switched power, but Tesla used one of the mfg option pins, pin 11, as unswitched power.

I just learned this after reviewing the diagrams yesterday, so have not yet confirmed in my own car.
Very interesting. If this turns out to be the case this is exactly what I need. By standard OBD port you're referring to the user accessible one under the driver knee space?
 
Ok, I re-wired my Valentine 1 as I have found a better 12v source which turns off when the car powers off.. I cannot edit my previous posts, but If your reading this, I suggest you ignore my past advice on where to splice (the wires were too small and did not always give signal).. There is no need to run extensive wiring around the car.. simply tap into the green and black wire as shown in the picture under the mirror cover and your all set.. I stuffed the excess wiring in the headliner, and I mount my radar to the side as can be seen.. It picks up all signals front and back.. No issues at all with this setup..

Cheers

Positive is the green, Negative is the Black.. Straight forward!

View attachment 751395View attachment 751396
Does the camera housing just pull off ? Any special techniques ? Nice post
 

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