2014 P85 Gets a 2017 facelift using OEM parts

[Rayminster]

my only issue with seeing the various facelift retrofit is the bumper sitting so far back from the T. its too noticeable and ugly looking. I guess the new hood is a fix for that but at some point, you're just building the car into a new car?

 

[BrianS85]

my only issue with seeing the various facelift retrofit is the bumper sitting so far back from the T. its too noticeable and ugly looking. I guess the new hood is a fix for that but at some point, you're just building the car into a new car?

I kind of feel the same way. Unless you do the hood, the underbite is pretty noticeable, even with the unplugged bumper. At that point I’d be tempted to just upgrade to a slightly newer one.

 

[Rockwell]

Is anyone good at making a bracket for my new hood? We can make two brackets for each of us. I have the hood and we can figure out a way to make this work. This will help out alot of people on the forum.

 

[DrKleiner]

Hi!
I will be making facelift update of my P85D and I have two questions to people who did it:
1. Are there any changes that can influence to Auto Pilot, for example on parallel auto park, it's going preaty close to another cars.
2. Did any one contact with Tesla to change visability of car in mobile app and of course in animations inside car?

Kind Regs,
Sam

 

[BrianS85]

The hood is a facelift hood, OEM stock, no changes.
My 2014 Model S has the "double-hook" for the lock, so I made a custom one to figure out the correct length:

View attachment 467524

At the moment there's some work with the frunk trim and the sealing, but it closes and I can drive with the new facelift front

@Newchurch what did you end up doing for your final double hook striker? Did you just weld up that prototype with the threaded rod and nuts or did you have something custom made from your measurements. Any chance you wrote down the correct measurements for each hook? It seems like for us double latch folks your solution could be the easiest.

 

[wagner1968]

I was wounder if you have pictures after

 

[tyler2323]

I kind of feel the same way. Unless you do the hood, the underbite is pretty noticeable, even with the unplugged bumper. At that point I’d be tempted to just upgrade to a slightly newer one.

There are some ways to extend the Oem prefacelift hood to get rid of the underbite as well as the gap. The latch can be moved down to eliminate the gap and the hood mounting points can slide forward on both top and bottom giving you about and inch and a 1/2 to help with the protruding bumper

This is with the prefacelift hood

Didn’t use any gap filler. I changed to a facelift hood cuz I’m too ocd but you can do some tricks to still make it look good without. I would recommend using a mesh grill over any advice since the Autopilot can work with no issues without cutting it

 

[Akikiki]

Very nice looking setup. Contrast works very well together. Nice job. Be proud.

 

[tyler2323]

Very nice looking setup. Contrast works very well together. Nice job. Be proud.

Hi!
I will be making facelift update of my P85D and I have two questions to people who did it:
1. Are there any changes that can influence to Auto Pilot, for example on parallel auto park, it's going preaty close to another cars.
2. Did any one contact with Tesla to change visability of car in mobile app and of course in animations inside car?

Kind Regs,
Sam

For those using a prefacelift hood these are must do’s to make it look as good as possible:
I have had a lot of members call me to help them with the facelift conversion and here are the best tips you should do. I enjoy helping ppl and have spent hrs trying to explain what u can do via phone call. I’ve been asked to make a video but I am not into doing all that nor do I want any type of notoriety or credit and definitely don’t want some YouTube fame in fact I don’t like social media at all and don’t want to be on camera. I just like helping others especially if they are less handy, and something that seems so simple to me can be extremely difficult for others. It takes me anywhere from 30 min to an hr to do the full conversion once the bumper has been painted. But for others it can be hrs or days so hopefully this helps anyone struggling.
The ankle catcher is very crucial to make the bumper get pulled downward which will allow the gap to minimized by allowing you to lower the latch as far as possible. Adjusting the hood to slide forward will allow it to not hit the headlights and also make the gap smaller while minimizing the underbite. To adjust the hood loosen the top and bottom brackets and pull it. Do the bottom first and while you tighten it make sure that u r pulling it so that it will slide as far as possible. The top bolts/brackets will not slide as far forward but still will. Use a Model X T Badge (pics are of an S t badge but an X will fill the gap better) and cut it to angle so that it gives it less space and makes the underbite appear less.
You can also use a facelift striker even tho you will only be able to mount it with one screw so you must tighten the *sugar* out of it. Or try finding one from another car that will fit the holes to mount it
Here’s pics with a prefacelift hood and no gap filler etc. if you have issues with the bumper not being perfectly flush with the headlights put washers under the t badge support that screw into the headlight brackets to raise it. If the bumper is sticking out right at the end where it meant the headlights make sure to push it to exactly where you want it to be than tighten the bolts all the way. Use the plastic piece that will be above the badge support and screw it into the t badge support to help fill the gap. Use very small screws in length and width so that are not noticeable. Make sure to cut the t badge support so that it is no hitting anything. In fact cut it so that the two mounting holes in the back are gone cuz they are not necessary anyways and it will make sure there is no obstruction from the battery terminal or homelink. Use a mesh grill and the Autopilot will work without having to cut an opening

If anyone wants this done, I can do it and have all the parts necessary. If you live in So Cal, AZ or Vegas I can do it at you house. Right now I have one facelift bumper unpainted but may have another if I decide to install my prior design bumper instead that’s painted black. I can even do a complete body kit install as well. Message me for details
I prefer using a facelift hood cause I like it to be perfect cause I’m OCD. The carbon fiber hood is a facelift hood in the pics. Make sure to remove the latch and add washers to extend the latch to account the the longer hood when using a facelift hood

 

[Videofrank]

For those using a prefacelift hood these are must do’s to make it look as good as possible:
I have had a lot of members call me to help them with the facelift conversion and here are the best tips you should do. I enjoy helping ppl and have spent hrs trying to explain what u can do via phone call. I’ve been asked to make a video but I am not into doing all that nor do I want any type of notoriety or credit and definitely don’t want some YouTube fame in fact I don’t like social media at all and don’t want to be on camera. I just like helping others especially if they are less handy, and something that seems so simple to me can be extremely difficult for others. It takes me anywhere from 30 min to an hr to do the full conversion once the bumper has been painted. But for others it can be hrs or days so hopefully this helps anyone struggling.
The ankle catcher is very crucial to make the bumper get pulled downward which will allow the gap to minimized by allowing you to lower the latch as far as possible. Adjusting the hood to slide forward will allow it to not hit the headlights and also make the gap smaller while minimizing the underbite. To adjust the hood loosen the top and bottom brackets and pull it. Do the bottom first and while you tighten it make sure that u r pulling it so that it will slide as far as possible. The top bolts/brackets will not slide as far forward but still will. Use a Model X T Badge (pics are of an S t badge but an X will fill the gap better) and cut it to angle so that it gives it less space and makes the underbite appear less.
You can also use a facelift striker even tho you will only be able to mount it with one screw so you must tighten the *sugar* out of it. Or try finding one from another car that will fit the holes to mount it
Here’s pics with a prefacelift hood and no gap filler etc. if you have issues with the bumper not being perfectly flush with the headlights put washers under the t badge support that screw into the headlight brackets to raise it. If the bumper is sticking out right at the end where it meant the headlights make sure to push it to exactly where you want it to be than tighten the bolts all the way. Use the plastic piece that will be above the badge support and screw it into the t badge support to help fill the gap. Use very small screws in length and width so that are not noticeable. Make sure to cut the t badge support so that it is no hitting anything. In fact cut it so that the two mounting holes in the back are gone cuz they are not necessary anyways and it will make sure there is no obstruction from the battery terminal or homelink
View attachment 528875 View attachment 528876 View attachment 528878 View attachment 528877

Thanks for writing all this out.

I share your social media avoidance. No facebook, instagram, nothing for me either.

Is it possible to post picks of the areas you are speaking specifically about? I for one, am not versed in all the parts lingo, so pics would help greatly.

Again thanks for doing this. This is a HUGE help.

 

[tyler2323]

More pictures

If you live in Arizona I can do any body kit installation you want. The prior design bumper has no mounts or brackets etc. it’s a shell on the inside and most shops that customize cars cannot even do the install. If they can they charge an arm and a leg.
For the prior design bumper install on a prefacelift Tesla you can expect shops to try to charge you $7k-$10k insane! You also have to cut the parking sensor holes etc so they try justifying there stupid prices due to some of these things. You also need to extend the parking sensor cable and I recommend extending the more the better for sensor holes 2 and 5. Just those as they are the ones that will not have enough slack. If doing fender flares extend 1 and 6 as you must cut holes in the first fender flares. I’ll post pictures once the prior design bumper is finished being painted. I have a shop in Arizona that I can perform the install or I can come to your house. The shop will paint the bumper ahead of time and I will finish the install in a day depending on what you want done exactly. Sometimes in an hr if you just doing the bumper.
I can do any type of customization you want.

 

[Videofrank]

More pictures

If you live in Arizona I can do any body kit installation you want. The prior design bumper has no mounts or brackets etc. it’s a shell on the inside and most shops that customize cars cannot even do the install. If they can they charge an arm and a leg.
For the prior design bumper install on a prefacelift Tesla you can expect shops to try to charge you $7k-$10k insane! You also have to cut the parking sensor holes etc so they try justifying there stupid prices due to some of these things. You also need to extend the parking sensor cable and I recommend extending the more the better for sensor holes 2 and 5. Just those as they are the ones that will not have enough slack. If doing fender flares extend 1 and 6 as you must cut holes in the first fender flares. I’ll post pictures once the prior design bumper is finished being painted. I have a shop in Arizona that I can perform the install or I can come to your house. The shop will paint the bumper ahead of time and I will finish the install in a day depending on what you want done exactly. Sometimes in an hr if you just doing the bumper.
I can do any type of customization you want.

I WOULD totally take you up on your offer and pay you to do the install. Unfortunately, you're too far from me.

Do you ever make it to the New York city area? Half kidding.

 

[tyler2323]

I WOULD totally take you up on your offer and pay you to do the install. Unfortunately, you're too far from me.

Do you ever make it to the New York city area? Half kidding.

Lol If I had my own private jet than I would cuz I would be rich enough not to give af cuz I enjoy working on cars. But with the tips I gave and the video another member did I’m sure you can get it done even if your not handy you got too start somewhere we all did and eventually you get the hang of it

 

[tyler2323]

Thanks for writing all this out.

I share your social media avoidance. No facebook, instagram, nothing for me either.

Is it possible to post picks of the areas you are speaking specifically about? I for one, am not versed in all the parts lingo, so pics would help greatly.

Again thanks for doing this. This is a HUGE help.

Yes I will post some pictures showing the areas when I have the time maybe late tonight

 

[Videofrank]

Yes I will post some pictures showing the areas when I have the time maybe late tonight

That would be awesome. And if you ever make it out here sometime, hit me up. Even to get a beer and shoot the sh*t. Also I work at Rockefeller Center in NYC so can hook you up with a tour as a payback for all this.

 

[Videofrank]

So this is going to be REALLY annoying but I am confused about some of the things your saying above. So I broke it down.

The ankle catcher is very crucial to make the bumper get pulled downward which will allow the gap to minimized by allowing you to lower the latch as far as possible.

OK so after some google searching I found what the "ankle catcher" is.



But I'm still not sure what to do with it?

Adjusting the hood to slide forward will allow it to not hit the headlights and also make the gap smaller while minimizing the underbite. To adjust the hood loosen the top and bottom brackets and pull it. Do the bottom first and while you tighten it make sure that u r pulling it so that it will slide as far as possible. The top bolts/brackets will not slide as far forward but still will.

I'm not sure where and what you are saying to do here? Can you please explain better and maybe show pics?

Use a Model X T Badge (pics are of an S t badge but an X will fill the gap better) and cut it to angle so that it gives it less space and makes the underbite appear less.

Ok so you say to use this badge from the Model x instead.



How do I cut it to work?

You can also use a facelift striker even tho you will only be able to mount it with one screw so you must tighten the *sugar* out of it. Or try finding one from another car that will fit the holes to mount it

Not sure what this means.

if you have issues with the bumper not being perfectly flush with the headlights put washers under the t badge support that screw into the headlight brackets to raise it.

Not sure about this either.

If the bumper is sticking out right at the end where it meant the headlights make sure to push it to exactly where you want it to be than tighten the bolts all the way. Use the plastic piece that will be above the badge support and screw it into the t badge support to help fill the gap. Use very small screws in length and width so that are not noticeable.

Sorry not this either.

Make sure to cut the t badge support so that it is no hitting anything. In fact cut it so that the two mounting holes in the back are gone cuz they are not necessary anyways and it will make sure there is no obstruction from the battery terminal or homelink.

Nope not this either.

Use a mesh grill and the Autopilot will work without having to cut an opening

This I did get and already did this per your suggestion on another post.

 

[Solar40]

@LUIS81807 that thing looks nice man. Wanna paint my rockers and diffuser too. If you don’t mind me asking what size are your rims. They sit perfect!!

 

[AlphaTango11]

Hi everyone,

I have a P85D that I am hoping to do an OEM bumper + hood refresh on. I have a few quick questions that hopefully a few of you will be able to answer.

1. My frunk is a single latch, does the new hood require changing the latch in order to work properly? Maybe the striker can be changed?
2. Since it is a dual motor, I have the smaller frunk. Do I need to change it somehow? I believe that will create a lot of issues.
   
3. Do the plastic pieces around the frunk need to be changed to the new style? Windshield washers? Obviously you cannot change the cabin air duct, or at least not very reasonably as far as I can tell. I suspect you would have to change the frunk, which is likely not reasonable either?

I feel very confident about the bumper portion, but I have always seen some custom work to make either hood work well. My main concern is with water intrusion (my car has already had a fun history of that).

I am attaching a spreadsheet with a list of parts I have gathered from previous posts. Part numbers have been updated to reflect the most current revision available. I believe this is everything I need, but I would love for you to double-check it.

Thanks.

 

[Dborn]

Hi everyone,

I have a P85D that I am hoping to do an OEM bumper + hood refresh on. I have a few quick questions that hopefully a few of you will be able to answer.

1. My frunk is a single latch, does the new hood require changing the latch in order to work properly? Maybe the striker can be changed?
2. Since it is a dual motor, I have the smaller frunk. Do I need to change it somehow? I believe that will create a lot of issues.
   
3. Do the plastic pieces around the frunk need to be changed to the new style? Windshield washers? Obviously you cannot change the cabin air duct, or at least not very reasonably as far as I can tell. I suspect you would have to change the frunk, which is likely not reasonable either?

I feel very confident about the bumper portion, but I have always seen some custom work to make either hood work well. My main concern is with water intrusion (my car has already had a fun history of that).

I am attaching a spreadsheet with a list of parts I have gathered from previous posts. Part numbers have been updated to reflect the most current revision available. I believe this is everything I need, but I would love for you to double-check it.

Thanks.

Wouldn’t it be a whole lot easier and probably more cost effective just to get the unplugged performance after market fascia? That is exactly what i did and it looks fantastic. No new hood required.

 

[TwoK4drSi]

Wouldn’t it be a whole lot easier and probably more cost effective just to get the unplugged performance after market fascia? That is exactly what i did and it looks fantastic. No new hood required.

Yeah they made it so you wouldn't need to source all these parts and it's only 1 piece.