I was at my local Harbor Freight today and they still had a decent supply of nitrile gloves.
Best,
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BeastMode13's Dual Purpose P3D Build Journey
- Thread starter beastmode13
- Start date
I was at my local Harbor Freight today and they still had a decent supply of nitrile gloves.
Best,
After I took out the stock stud and test-fit the ARP. It was immediately apparent that the ARP studs will not work. The shoulder diameter before the knurl section is too big to fit the stock hub. The shoulder on the Dorman studs is comparable to stock studs. I would love to install the ARP, but it will require reaming the hole to a slightly larger diameter. ROI is just not worth it.
Looking through the hub hole from the front side. You can see the marks left by the stock knurl.
A view from the backside. The caliper side of the hub is the best place to insert the new studs, plenty of clearance for long studs.
Length comparison between stock and ARP studs.
The nifty Lisle 22800 wheel stud installer tool. Money well spent. You might have noticed that I didn't remove the brake rotor. There is not a mechanical reason for removing it unless it is in the way of removing or inserting the studs. Maybe if you are not careful with the hammer? Having the brakes intact can speed up the process, as you will see in the next step.
With a ratchet wrench, I was able to tighten/pull in the stud into the hub almost all the way. Only the last 1/2 to one turn is accomplished with a torque wrench, which I torque it to 175NM / 129lb/ft.
I didn't have a helper today. If I had a helper, or remember to use a stick to jam on the brake pedal, I would not need to use a wrench to hold the rotor/hub in place while I torque down the studs.
Looking through the hub hole from the front side. You can see the marks left by the stock knurl.
A view from the backside. The caliper side of the hub is the best place to insert the new studs, plenty of clearance for long studs.
Length comparison between stock and ARP studs.
The nifty Lisle 22800 wheel stud installer tool. Money well spent. You might have noticed that I didn't remove the brake rotor. There is not a mechanical reason for removing it unless it is in the way of removing or inserting the studs. Maybe if you are not careful with the hammer? Having the brakes intact can speed up the process, as you will see in the next step.
With a ratchet wrench, I was able to tighten/pull in the stud into the hub almost all the way. Only the last 1/2 to one turn is accomplished with a torque wrench, which I torque it to 175NM / 129lb/ft.
I didn't have a helper today. If I had a helper, or remember to use a stick to jam on the brake pedal, I would not need to use a wrench to hold the rotor/hub in place while I torque down the studs.
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Hammer time. Big hammer get the job done.
Helpful tips:
Using the hour hand on a clock as a reference. 6:30 is a good spot to fish out studs.
Using your pinky as a guide while using the other hand to feed the new stud in from the back.
Three options to prevent the hub from spinning. 1. Activate the brake. 2. Jam it with something, like a wrench in the photo. This option might only work with RB rotors. 3. Remove and replace one stud at a time, so can prop a long stick/pole/breaker bar between studs as a counter lever.
Using the hour hand on a clock as a reference. 6:30 is a good spot to fish out studs.
Using your pinky as a guide while using the other hand to feed the new stud in from the back.
Three options to prevent the hub from spinning. 1. Activate the brake. 2. Jam it with something, like a wrench in the photo. This option might only work with RB rotors. 3. Remove and replace one stud at a time, so can prop a long stick/pole/breaker bar between studs as a counter lever.
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Since the lug wells are deep on my wheel, the studs barely stick out. It will take a keen eye to spot this mod. Perfect for UUC.
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Any reason you didn't impact them on? That would be much faster and avoid the rotating hub issue. Quick video as an example starting at about 25 seconds in:
Otherwise very informative thread. Might try swapping my studs eventually too. Bummer about the ARP ones though.
Do yourself a favor and invest in some 18V battery tools. Granted, I do a whole lot more stuff with cars than a lot of people, so I have tons of tools, but if you track your car, a good battery impact makes life much easier on track days. 18-volt half inch fuel High Torque Impact Wrench w/ Friction Ring Kit
Thank you for your impact wrench commentaries. Your recommendations are noted.
I do own a 300lb/ft impact wrench, I mostly use it for loosening stuff, rarely use it for tightening. The OCD in me likes to know exactly how much torque is applied to each of the nuts and bolts.
Now, let's stop the impact wrench talk, it is not the topic of this thread. Thanks much.
Yep, these are great tools. If I was a track person, I'd definitely have one or more tools in that ecosystem.
Best,
Clivew
Member
Thanks for the write up and info, very helpful for those of us thinking of fitting longer studs.
One thing to note, I highly recommend not jamming anything into the rotor bell, this is a highly stressed area and any slight damage to the bell in that area is a stress raiser for where future cracks could propagate from, causing failure.
One thing to note, I highly recommend not jamming anything into the rotor bell, this is a highly stressed area and any slight damage to the bell in that area is a stress raiser for where future cracks could propagate from, causing failure.
Clivew
Member
I'm really sorry to be negative, but as a qualified engineer I have to comment!
Hitting anything on the hub with a hammer is a really bad idea. Any shock loads get transferred directly into the wheel bearing and there is a chance this will damage the race of the bearing. These small indentations due to the ball being shocked loaded into the race is called brinelling, and may cause bearing failure further down the line.
MasterC17
Active Member
MasterC17
Active Member
How would that help though, the hub and bearing are one-piece so you wouldn't you still be "shocking" the balls in the bearing?
@MasterC17
I guess one can use this tool.
https://www.grainger.com/product/48...17667&ef_id=Xny1OwAAAQV-1nCg:20200326135923:s
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Clivew
Member
Remove the assembly and press out the studs. This is how I've carried this out on multiple cars in the past. It's just best practice not to induce any shock loads into the bearing. I'm not stating it is damaged or will fail, it just raises the risk.
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