You seem to be missing the concept of what a warranty is. If you have an HVAC guy come to your house to check out something wrong with your furnace, and they fix something on it that is covered by warranty, the repair work does not cost, but you still have to pay the $75 service call fee for them to drive one of their trucks to your house to check it out.
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You seem to be missing the concept of what a warranty is. If you have an HVAC guy come to your house to check out something wrong with your furnace, and they fix something on it that is covered by warranty, the repair work does not cost, but you still have to pay the $75 service call fee for them to drive one of their trucks to your house to check it out.
m6bigdog
Member
I talked to my Tesla Guru.
He informed me, the Charge Port receiver antenna is located in the rear window.
He suggested we lift the charge connector up and closer to the rear window then push door button, instead of holding it low and close to the charge port which may actually be shielding the transmitter in the charge connector from the receiver antenna in the rear window.
Worked, every time so far.... I have yet to have the opening problem with the charge port since we started holding the charge connector up and closer to the rear window. I will continue to experiment to determine what is sufficient rather than exaggerating the position of the charge connector.
He informed me, the Charge Port receiver antenna is located in the rear window.
He suggested we lift the charge connector up and closer to the rear window then push door button, instead of holding it low and close to the charge port which may actually be shielding the transmitter in the charge connector from the receiver antenna in the rear window.
Worked, every time so far.... I have yet to have the opening problem with the charge port since we started holding the charge connector up and closer to the rear window. I will continue to experiment to determine what is sufficient rather than exaggerating the position of the charge connector.
I just got the same answer from my SC and wow it now works every time. Strange thing is that I never used to have to point the connector at the rear window. My old connector that came with the car was replaced during the last service visit earlier this summer. After that is when I noticed the intermittent opening problem. But seems perfect if you point the connector at the right part of the car. not the charge port itself.
I was aware of this, but when my first one started acting up even holding it right over the antenna didn't help every time and it would still take multiple button pushes. Even with my new cable, it still takes 2-3 pushes at times. But it does help. I think there may be something that interferes with the signal from time to time.
I am quoting myself here as I think I have found that the solution to #2 above is to hold the hpwc handle vertically and at about head height......and then push the button. It seems to work every time. Others have suggested holding the handle near the rear window as well.....probably works too.
Just imagine you are the Statue of Liberty and try holding up the handle when you push the button; all should be good.
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I guess my last post is an equivalent and independent verification of M6bigdog's findings.
mrElbe
Active Member
Hmm. My charge port opens when I press the handle button from two feet away at either HPWC or Supercharger.
Yes, it is hard to tell how pervasive this issue is. Fortunately it has been an irritation/frustration (perhaps solved) versus a major problem. There appear to be many folks who have never seen this problem at all....... such as yourself I presume given your response.
Just for clarity, when I point the handle at the charge port door (kind of like a television remote) from a few inches away, or a few feet away it rarely works. Hold the handle vertical at about head height, and it seems to be very reliable.
gavine
Petrol Head turned EV Enthusiast
Slightly off topic, but one time I charged at a Tesla store and when I pushed the button on the UMC, the charge port doors on all of the Teslas around me opened. Some where about 20ft away. I was surprised the signal went that far because sometimes, at home, I have to move the UMC wand around the back window to get it to register. Lately, I have gotten in the habit of opening the port from the touchscreen. That works 100% got me on the first try.
Inconsistent Charge Port Door Operation
I too am experiencing the door problem, but not consistently. The door, when shut after leaving my garage pops open.
I experienced this a couple of times, over the 18 months of operation.
Recently, while opening the door from the control panel button, a click was heard and the door indicated open on the control panel, but it was closed. I didn't notice any light emitting. This went back and forth for about 3 times and then it worked. The next time I pulled the connector off from charge port and closed the door, when leaving it popped open and indicated open. I closed the door and it closed fine. No repeat in a weeks time.
I too am experiencing the door problem, but not consistently. The door, when shut after leaving my garage pops open.
I experienced this a couple of times, over the 18 months of operation.
Recently, while opening the door from the control panel button, a click was heard and the door indicated open on the control panel, but it was closed. I didn't notice any light emitting. This went back and forth for about 3 times and then it worked. The next time I pulled the connector off from charge port and closed the door, when leaving it popped open and indicated open. I closed the door and it closed fine. No repeat in a weeks time.
alwaysru
Member
Had the same issue - Tesla pulled logs and determined it wasn't opening about 1/3 of the time, so replaced the mechanism. Have had it happen a couple more times since - when actioned from the touchscreen as well as the keyfob.
I've started encountering charge port issues recently. Over the past 4months, I would hear the click, but it wouldn't open. It wouldn't open whether it's from connector button, or from inside the car hitting "open charge port". I would just keep hearing click, but it would NOT open. I tried prying, and last night tried hitting the charge port like what some others have done.
Over the last week, it's happened to me 3 out of 7 days. Sounds like I gotta take it in to Service Center.
Over the last week, it's happened to me 3 out of 7 days. Sounds like I gotta take it in to Service Center.
I too have had intermittent problems opening the charge port door with my home HPWC. The first month I took delivery on the car (March of 2015) it stuck and would not open unless forced. The SC quickly replaced it and I have had some intermittent problems with the new one, but usually I could find a way to open it (pointing at the antenna or using the control panel screen). They gave me the open only version, not the open or close version of the door.
Also, as noted in other threads on this forum, there is interference from surrounding devices which might cause problems. As we all know, EMI and RF are ubiquitous around us. WiFi, BlueTooth, Dash Cams, Key Fobs, cell phones and other electronics even from other cars parked in the same garage. All these can and do cause Radio Controlled devices to behave erratically. I was keeping my BMW Key Fob in the same pocket as my Tesla and that caused the Tesla Fob to behave strangely. Since the signal is a weak one, I was able to just move the BMW Fob to the other pocket and the problem went away..... I found my Dash Cam cable was making my GPS and TPMS system behave weirdly also. Turns out that the cable connecting the front camera to the rear one had been cut, soldered and spliced in two places in order to feed it through some small holes in the chassis, but those splices were enough of an "radiator" or antenna to make my GPS freeze and become disoriented, and for my TPMS to report non-existent problems. (though I did learn subsequently from the local SC that there is a know software bug in the TPMS which will be fixed in a future software release. In any case, when we solve problems, sometimes we cause other problems as well.
Just FYI, here is a list some of the antennae in the Tesla (copied from "TeslaTap") Keep in mind that Tesla often changes locations and suppliers on components:
Antennas
Key FOB
Also, as noted in other threads on this forum, there is interference from surrounding devices which might cause problems. As we all know, EMI and RF are ubiquitous around us. WiFi, BlueTooth, Dash Cams, Key Fobs, cell phones and other electronics even from other cars parked in the same garage. All these can and do cause Radio Controlled devices to behave erratically. I was keeping my BMW Key Fob in the same pocket as my Tesla and that caused the Tesla Fob to behave strangely. Since the signal is a weak one, I was able to just move the BMW Fob to the other pocket and the problem went away..... I found my Dash Cam cable was making my GPS and TPMS system behave weirdly also. Turns out that the cable connecting the front camera to the rear one had been cut, soldered and spliced in two places in order to feed it through some small holes in the chassis, but those splices were enough of an "radiator" or antenna to make my GPS freeze and become disoriented, and for my TPMS to report non-existent problems. (though I did learn subsequently from the local SC that there is a know software bug in the TPMS which will be fixed in a future software release. In any case, when we solve problems, sometimes we cause other problems as well.
Just FYI, here is a list some of the antennae in the Tesla (copied from "TeslaTap") Keep in mind that Tesla often changes locations and suppliers on components:
Antennas
- AM Radio – Rear hatch glass
- Bluetooth – Near top of 17″ display (based on our signal strength measurements)
- Cellular – 800 MHz GSM (USA) antenna resides in both side mirrors (Nearfield Systems)
- Charge port release – Uses FOB antennas (see below for FOB)
- FM Radio – Rear hatch glass
- GPS – Under top of back hatch glass
- Homelink – Front of car, 3-5″ from the frunk latch, passenger side
- TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitor Service) – near bottom front of AC propulsion motor in 2012-2014 cars. May have changed for cars with displayable tire pressures.
- WiFi -Passenger side mirror (Nearfield Systems)
- XM Satellite – Under top of back hatch glass in early cars, under the pano roof in later editions
Key FOB
- 1 exterior antenna in back bumper, bottom-center (visible with bumper removed)
- 2 antennas inside at dash, at the left and right side panels
- 315 MHz for North America, 433.93 MHz for Europe and Asia (industry FOB standards)
- FOB uses TI TMS37F128 Controller
- If battery is dead, it may be powered via RF energy from antennas – best placement is between the two inside dash antennas (such as at the cup holders, or on the center windshield). We’ve been unable to confirm this works with a totally dead battery, and may be limited to working with a weak battery.
green1
Active Member
Other people have confirmed that the windshield placement only works with weak batteries, not completely dead ones, but some have had luck with completely dead batteries on the centre console by the 12v outlet (in the cup holders only works for weak batteries)
Sometimes my classic charge port (pop open only) clicks but does not open.
I think it happens when there's moisture (rain) has gotten onto what looks like gasket sealing parts on the door that meet the port to cover the electrical parts... it's like moisture makes too good of a seal or "suction cup" which is what is holding it shut after the magnetic release. So what I do is wipe the port hole and inner door dry before shutting the door if I notice weather has gotten it wet.
Is this making any sense? I'm tiired
I think it happens when there's moisture (rain) has gotten onto what looks like gasket sealing parts on the door that meet the port to cover the electrical parts... it's like moisture makes too good of a seal or "suction cup" which is what is holding it shut after the magnetic release. So what I do is wipe the port hole and inner door dry before shutting the door if I notice weather has gotten it wet.
Is this making any sense? I'm tiired
whitecotton
Member
jcaspar
Member
Me three. Mine opens instantly from across the garage with the first touch on my UMC every time. Was on a road trip last week and the HPWC at the hotel needed to be 3-4' away before it would open the door.
My new-in-last-week situation is two-fold.
*Minor: tonight at an SpC I could not get the cable end to release from the vehicle. It was obvious it was not going to happen, as I could elicit a green ring and a blue ring, but no white ring. My fob has a newly-installed battery; this was with just my approaching vehicle and trying to disengage. So I had to fob-press the doors to open; that allowed me to get the desired white ring and no further problem.
*More major: three times in the past week when I disengage the charging cable at home and shut the port door (and hear the appropriate "ka-thunk" click), then when I enter the car and start up; the "charge door open" warning appears....and sure enough, each time the door has re-opened. So it's a trip to the SvC for the Audiemobile. Quickly reading through this thread I did not notice an identical problem. I have cleaned all the appropriate contacts; no moisture and no other visible changes from heretofore.
*Minor: tonight at an SpC I could not get the cable end to release from the vehicle. It was obvious it was not going to happen, as I could elicit a green ring and a blue ring, but no white ring. My fob has a newly-installed battery; this was with just my approaching vehicle and trying to disengage. So I had to fob-press the doors to open; that allowed me to get the desired white ring and no further problem.
*More major: three times in the past week when I disengage the charging cable at home and shut the port door (and hear the appropriate "ka-thunk" click), then when I enter the car and start up; the "charge door open" warning appears....and sure enough, each time the door has re-opened. So it's a trip to the SvC for the Audiemobile. Quickly reading through this thread I did not notice an identical problem. I have cleaned all the appropriate contacts; no moisture and no other visible changes from heretofore.
green1
Active Member
I have several times had the "charge door open" warning and had to get back out to close it after I was certain I closed it. But so far I've chalked it up to my memory failing me and that I must not have actually closed it all the way, or something. I think I'll have to pay more attention to it...
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