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Going to order a new Model 3 performance. Should I consider the long range AWD?

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I think the look of the performance is more special and stands out slightly over a LR as well, although they are almost equal above 45mph as shown. Lower suspension, bigger red brembo brakes, carbon spoiler, nicer wheels (imo). I just remember on my delivery day the lot was flooded with long range models and my performance model stood out to me and I loved seeing those red calipers peaking through while walking up to it, and seeing it amongst the other SR +LR M3's really made me happy with the decision.

That being said, of course if you save the 6k from the LR (after boost) you can do the Same "mods" and have money left over probably... but I like everything to come from factory so that I do not have to fiddle with anything tbh.
 
As a car enthusiast myself I regret not getting a performance. I would have ended up modding both to some extent but the performance would have been likely just wheels. Now with my LR I already have everything to convert over to a performance (brakes, suspension, spoiler) but ill never have track mode.

I would suggest trying to drive both and finding what is best for you.
 
Thanks all for all of the replies! I've read them all and still going back and forth on my decision. It's nice to know the AWD LR with the boost is closer or even the same from 40 mph on but I really like launching and the out of the hole speed.

I wont be taking the car to the track ever. Or most likely never. I just like to have some fun out where it's safe.

To another reply it won't be a daily driver. I drive the z06 about 2k miles a year. Granted the Model 3 will be driven more than that but it won't get 8-10k miles a year or anything like that.

I'll post my decision soon. And maybe I should go and drive them first to make my decision easier! Thanks all!
Is snow a factor? Because if it is you'll regret not getting the performance to toss around in it.

I'd expect your guess of 8-10k a year will be low, it seriously is that much fun to drive. You'll find excuses to drive it. The instant power without any noise is hilariously addicting. By about the 1-2 year point you'll miss the exhaust noises but you'll have the z06 so you'll be fine.
 
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Before my Tesla, I regularly did 15k miles per year. Now, I have averaged over 22k miles per year for almost four years. Its that good.

And I have the lowly LR RWD version. With the Performance, you won't want to get out of it.
 
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For me, also coming from performance vehicles, I knew if I didn't get the P I'd regret it, and always have that "I should've just ..." cloud which is well worth (for me) avoiding by paying the extra $8K :D


The instant power without any noise is hilariously addicting. By about the 1-2 year point you'll miss the exhaust noises but you'll have the z06 so you'll be fine.

Had to quote this, specifically the bold, because, yes :D


@Blacktes24

re: also in the quote above, exhaust noises / Z06, I had a C5Z06 too, really nicely setup, and I had this really slick exhaust mod because I didn't want to remove the really cool Ti system. A guy was doing a crossover pipe at the muffler so the main inlet had a small pipe into the one of the two outlets on each side - at the time it was kind of a big deal, since not a lot of folks were welding titanium. Made it super growly :D
 
It's simple, will you track the car? Will you have time to drive the car on nice twisties and want slight some tail out action?

If you say no to tracking the car, and you're keeping a fun car like a Z06 for the twisties, then perhaps the $8k difference wouldn't buy you much joy. If you're lucky enough to commute through roads that lets you have some fun with the Performance's track mode, or maybe you live in areas with some snow that lets you drift just a little here and there, then it'd be an easy YES.

The standard stability control will slap your wrists if you try to have any fun beyond the tires' limits, that makes a LR more of a 8/10ths kind of fun car. Good fun but you can't push that hard. Perfectly fine and fun for 95% of driving. Personally, with a fun weekend RWD sports car I'd just get a LR.
 
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First off let me start by saying I love fast cars(currently have a C5 Z06 as my toy) so that is why I am pretty well set on the Model 3 performance. But as I look at the price difference it seems 8k is fairly steep and almost makes me want to consider just ordering the long range Model 3.

0-60 in 3.2 vs 3.9 is fairly significant but not sure it's worth justifying the 8k. Looking for any advice from owners to tip the scales for me. haha
Just got my performance and spent a long time with a long range , definitely get the performance it is amazing car.
 
It's simple, will you track the car? Will you have time to drive the car on nice twisties and want slight some tail out action?

If you say no to tracking the car, and you're keeping a fun car like a Z06 for the twisties, then perhaps the $8k difference wouldn't buy you much joy. If you're lucky enough to commute through roads that lets you have some fun with the Performance's track mode, or maybe you live in areas with some snow that lets you drift just a little here and there, then it'd be an easy YES.

The standard stability control will slap your wrists if you try to have any fun beyond the tires' limits, that makes a LR more of a 8/10ths kind of fun car. Good fun but you can't push that hard. Perfectly fine and fun for 95% of driving. Personally, with a fun weekend RWD sports car I'd just get a LR.
It’s not that simple as track or not. The performance simply drives nicer. 🤷‍♂️
 
As a P owner I agree the acceleration difference doesn't mean much to me, especially if compared to LR with AB added.

But Track Mode is essential to me for maximum enjoyment of this car. I could give up the P's extra acceleration easy to save money, but not Track Mode.
 
Get the performance and you won't have any regrets. I have the stealth performance(P3d-) and I still lust over the performance wheels and sexy red brakes. If you're trying to save some money, a used performance is a great idea because FSD would be discounted (compared to new 12k).
 
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Track mode is really the main selling point for the M3P. It's required for any competitive track days.

Keep in mind that track mode’s purpose is primarily cooling and changing the handling balance (power distribution through turns), reducing stability assist/traction control and increasing regenerative braking to enhance on-track performance.

As a new/potential owner, there are a few things to keep in mind and consider about track mode that may not be obvious based on a short test drive. As an ICE performance car owner, I thought of track mode as a more "hardcore" driving mode and figured “I’ll just leave the M3P in track mode most of the time while driving on the street”.. and well, I was wrong. Surprise, track mode is intended for just that, the track.
  • The car has to be in park to enable track mode. It’s not just a typical drive mode that you can toggle to on the fly like in most ICE vehicles. This may not seem like a big deal, but it’s an annoyance when you have to pull over and stop to put it into track mode before an upcoming twisty road.
  • The handling bias/power distribution & traction control settings have no effect when driving straight. The settings are only applied when the steering wheel is turned (through corners). Don't expect to be doing any burnouts like you can in the Z06 ;)
  • The enhanced cooling is beneficial for extended track sessions to keep the battery and powertrain from overheating (when you're acceleration at 100% for several minutes/laps, not seconds like in 1/8, 1/4, 1/2 mile passes). Track mode allows for power for longer durations, not more power.
  • Due to the enhanced cooling, track mode is actually detrimental to straight line acceleration (eg drag racing). You want the battery as warm as possible (within reason) for peak power output. The cooling from track mode will result in slower acceleration during short bursts. It's logical that one would mistakenly associate track mode with the fastest acceleration mode..
  • I suspect most drivers don’t typically drive around in track mode on the street like you can in an ICE vehicle. The increased powertrain cooling will negatively impact efficiency, range and performance.
My Tesla drive mode wish list for the M3P:
  • A Plaid drag strip/ludicrous+ mode that preheats the battery to optimal "peak performance" instead of having to "Navigate to supercharger" or supercharge prior to the run.
  • A performance mode that you could toggle to on the fly to adjust the handling bias & regen braking for street driving WITHOUT the increased cooling when it isn’t required.
  • And of course, the ability to have these settings applied when driving straight :)
TLDR:
Track mode != more power & faster acceleration
Track mode = better handling & increased cooling for extended track sessions to prevent the powertrain from overheating
 
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The North Texas Tesla FB group is full of postings with cracked rims/ busted tires - and nearly exclusively - all are Model 3 P. The performance wheels and thin sidewalls on the tires aren't very forgiving when it comes to mediocre roads here/ pot holes. just something to keep in mind. Ride quality is also noticeably harsher and less range.

at the end of the day - what's more important? Road tripping/ daily driver Vs. that extra half-second or so and track performance?
 
@EVolv3d Great explanation of Track Mode there and warning of what it isn't. @Blacktes24 know that Track Mode isn't useful or relevant for typical daily driving. The only situations I use it on the street for are twisty rural roads, empty highway ramps, and snow covered roads.

@texas_star_TM3 you're certainly correct about the M3P wheels but wheels are trivial to change. That needn't stop anyone from buying an M3P, it's equally as good for road tripping and daily driving as the LR AWD if you downsize the wheels. (But no real benefit to the P in typical daily driving either.)
 
@EVolv3d Great explanation of Track Mode there and warning of what it isn't. @Blacktes24 know that Track Mode isn't useful or relevant for typical daily driving. The only situations I use it on the street for are twisty rural roads, empty highway ramps, and snow covered roads.

@texas_star_TM3 you're certainly correct about the M3P wheels but wheels are trivial to change. That needn't stop anyone from buying an M3P, it's equally as good for road tripping and daily driving as the LR AWD if you downsize the wheels. (But no real benefit to the P in typical daily driving either.)
I can't imagine that the only difference in the handling is the wheels? I have driven both the LR AWD and the P (ended up with) and the P handles / drives so much better (maybe It's all in my head 🤣 )
 
I can't imagine that the only difference in the handling is the wheels? I have driven both the LR AWD and the P (ended up with) and the P handles / drives so much better (maybe It's all in my head 🤣 )
@j_grange Felt like the only significant difference was the wheels and tires, when I test drove October 2021 M3LR and M3P two days apart. I know the P suspension was slightly lower but it really felt about the same to me, in terms of actual handling and ride, after mentally factoring out the wheel+tire difference.

Also as of now Tesla no longer lists the P as lower. Same exact suspension as LR if you buy a new P now. Which is fine, the 2021 P lower suspension wasn't any better...it was just lower.

Note there's lots of reports that older Model 3 had stiffer suspension tuning. But that reportedly holds true even comparing older LR (stiffer) vs newer P (softer).
 
The P suspension was (it appears it's no longer) very very very slightly stiffer and a whole 0.4 inches lower. Pretty minor difference, to the point Tesla appears to have abandoned doing it at all, and a new P today at tesla.com no longer lists or shows that it uses the slightly different suspension.

The primary noticeable difference in ride/handling would've been the bigger heavier thin sidewall wheels, and the fact the tires on those wheels are WAAAAAY better than the MXM4 all seasons they put on the stock 18" wheels by default.

FWIW the lack of any real physical improvement in handling was the main reason I skipped the P3D- for a LR AWD.... if they'd offered something like adjustable magnetic shocks and significantly better sway bars on the P I'd have happily spent the extra $. The fact they still haven't, and now offer the 2k boost for the LR AWD, just reinforces I made the right choice for myself.

(and I generally suggest it as the right choice for most who don't track the car- for those who do I still fully recommend the P, I just suggest they'll wanna invest in better/stronger/lighter wheels for it since you cant get the - version anymore)
 
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