I’m trying to get the other one to burn out so it matches and I don’t have to spend $1600 to make them match
Or just let them both burn out so they match each other and no one will know that there is anything wrong. New (both works) = good 1 year in One out = ugly as ass 1.5 years in Both out = ok Does anyone have a burnt out unit they want to swap with one that still works (but will likely burn out in a few months)?
Does this affect both the "standard" headlamp DRL and the "PUP" headlamp DRL? The (2016) Premium Upgrades Package was reconfigured as follows: Three Positon dynamic LED turning headlights for improved nighttime visibility LED fog lights A true HEPA air filtration system that is 100 times more effective than premium automotive filters, removing at least 99.97% of particulate exhaust solution and effectively all allergens, bacteria and other contaminants from the cabin air . Includes a Bioweapon Defense Mode. Two activated carbon air purification filters that prevent nitrogen oxides and hydrocarbon exhaust fumes and other offensive odors from entering the cabin.
Had mine replaced this week by a very knowledge mobile tech. He told me the DRLs are NOT individual LEDs, but a single light source in the corner whose light is carried down the length by a tube that glows along its length. The tubes age and crack and quit transmitting the light. That explains the failure pattern seems to smoothly get darker as you move away from the corner. No LEDs failing, just a plastic tube that should have been better quality. Too bad they can’t simply open the light and replace the tube for ten bucks.
Both of my DRL's have failed in the past month, or so (the upper half of the "eyeliner"). On a related note, has anyone else seen this effect: A smoky discoloration on the lower portion of the inside of the headlamp lens, as if some electronic component had burned and the smoke deposited on the inside of the lens?
I understand how the headlamp is different. I was hoping to hear actual experiences from owners who have the PUP headlamp to weigh in. Since they have different part numbers, I was hoping the suppliers might also be different and not prone to the same kind of failures.
I have the PUP headlamps. I've had one replaced under warranty. As this package became standard sometime in 2017 and there are many many reports of that vintage experiencing problems, it's safe to say they're affected. I don't think the actual assemblies are different at all, other than the PUP ones have a bulb in the cornering lamp housing and the feature is enabled in software. They're almost certainly provided by the same supplier and use identical components for the DRLs.
How How can you tell the difference between the two different headlights? I’ve always wondered if they installed the PUP headlights or not. Mine don’t seem to do anything special.
The PUP lights will illuminate a cornering lamp on sharp turns, in the direction of your turn. It’s binary, if you watch closely you should see it turn on and off. Many people think they are some sort of fancy moving bulb system, no doubt based on Tesla’s rather inflated description of them - “three position dynamic turning headlights”. The “three positions” are: “Left bulb on” (sharp turn left) “No bulb on” (driving forward) “Right bulb on” (sharp turn right) And “turning headlights” in this case means “lights for turning”, not “lights that turn”.
I think there is more variation than that. There is at least three levels of each direction that I see. 2016 early refresh who happens to have have each unit replaced 5 times under warranty for dead DRL'S or what Tesla calls them "Signature Lamps".
I thought so at first too but I’ve looked pretty closely on very dark roads and at least on my refresh late 2016 I can’t see anything beyond “on” and “off” in each direction. But I might be wrong.
I'll look again in the next few days. I have a place where I can see the reflection very well in a glassed in area.
My beef with all this is that the last time mine went out the turn signal stopped working. At least the feedback that it was working went out. It was a functional failure and not just cosmetic.
Took delivery of my 2017 Model S 3/24/2017, both mine are failing. Have about 45713 miles on mine, but have not checked them since around 20-30k. Will take in to get addressed soon, also have what might be a failing rear hatch strut (starting to make noise), had a bad coolant pump, a steering rack replaced, upper control arm replaced (scrunch noises). Still love my car though, out of warranty...not sure how I’ll feel...
Had my other DRL fail and was replaced last week by mobile service in about 50 minutes. So both driver and passenger lights are replaced.
If I could go back, I wouldn't have gotten mine fixed because the other one went out after warranty and now I have to spend $1700 or wait for the other to burn out and match, which according to this thread, should happen in about a year