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I have done the same thing with a UL rated 50A continuios cord (Designed for welding applications) on plugged into a 6-50 outlet attached to a Gen 2 MC.

No problems for two years, except for the MC cord running a bit warm at max (32) amps. I charge at 28A which is 20/mi of RR per hour, and the MC cord is fine with that.

Having said that, your setup might have other problems

Check the Tesla Tap site for excellent tips on charging.
I'll tell you what--if we get deep into July and there still are no cars in SoCal, I'll make a roadtrip that way--after 14+ months of being locked up and 5 months with no car, I have an itch to stretch my legs. South is as good as any direction.
 
Me? No.

The battery/drive unit warranty on my car was up in July. I did not want to own the car out of warranty. If I ended up spending $10K on a new drive unit or $15-$20K on a battery pack that could have otherwise gone towards a new car, I would be kicking myself.

But even then, waiting is a fool's game. You are never gonna get a the best car because Tesla will always be adding stuff and it's moving target. My advice is pull the trigger and start enjoying the car as soon as possible. Make peace that there is probably something that shows up in 6 months that you will want. Someone six months from now might get some cool new feature but, but then, I would have had six months of enjoying my personal spaceship.
You were too fast for me while I was editing! I added a first line saying thanks and my comment wasn't directed at you. Just a general observation.
 
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Ok all you Tesla geniuses. Since we are bored waiting anyway, let me ask your opinion on this. I have a funky driveway situation and I don't think the charge cord will reach to my outlet when I get my car. I purchased this 50 AMP extension cord. It is super thick and weighs about 10 pounds. This is not your standard outdoor extension cord. I can use the 14-50 Tesla adapter to plug into this cord and it gives me an extra 15 feet to get to the 14-50 outlet. In addition, I bought a 14-50 to 5-15 adapter, so if all that is available is a 5-15 outlet, I have an extension to get to that type of outlet as well. I didn't see anything in the current Tesla manual that says you cannot use a proper extension cord. This seems like more than enough since highest charge is 32 amps with mobile cord anyway. Tell me I'm not going to burn down my house or ruin my car.
I don't think you are doing it right. Typically, if your circuit breaker is rated at X Amps, your safe operating Amps is 80%. So, for a 60A circuit breaker, you an draw a max of 48A safely. Converting a 14-50 to 5-15 using an adapter will make your 5-15A outlet heat up in no time and eventually burnout unless you are having a device (generally a step-down transformer) to reduce the Amps to 15Amps. Don't expect to draw 32A from 5-15 outlet. I suggest you either use 14-50 plug after extending it closer to user car using extension cord or have an electrician setup required breaker after reducing Amps to a lower number. Else, you will be running at your own risk.
 
I'll tell you what--if we get deep into July and there still are no cars in SoCal, I'll make a roadtrip that way--after 14+ months of being locked up and 5 months with no car, I have an itch to stretch my legs. South is as good as any direction.
That would be awesome. But for my sanity that is stretching into 9 months of madness, I hope you don't have to!
 
I don't think you are doing it right. Typically, if your circuit breaker is rated at X Amps, your safe operating Amps is 80%. So, for a 60A circuit breaker, you an draw a max of 48A safely. Converting a 14-50 to 5-15 using an adapter will make your 5-15A outlet heat up in no time and eventually burnout unless you are having a device (generally a step-down transformer) to reduce the Amps to 15Amps. Don't expect to draw 32A from 5-15 outlet. I suggest you either use 14-50 plug after extending it closer to user car using extension cord or have an electrician setup required breaker after reducing Amps to a lower number. Else, you will be running at your own risk.
It's my understanding the mobile cords max at 32 amps anyway. My plan was to reduce the amps setting to 12 in the car (I believe you can do that on the screen correct?) for the 5-15 outlet if I ever used it. That is under the 15 amps for a normal circuit.
 
I'll tell you what--if we get deep into July and there still are no cars in SoCal, I'll make a roadtrip that way--after 14+ months of being locked up and 5 months with no car, I have an itch to stretch my legs. South is as good as any direction.
I have access to a airport or two, one is private. 2600' paved.
 
Oh gosh. No offense, but if you can't at least put down $20k or whatever like that, I would think your accountant would advise you to buy a less expensive car dude. That IS a mortgage payment dude. Why bother at that monthly payment, even for just 3 years? Or maybe do a 5-year loan and pay an extra $200+ each month to pay it down quicker?

Cardinal Rule for leasing cars: NEVER, EVER, NEVER put money down on a lease vehicle! Whatever you put down is lost if you total the car. You don’t get it back. (Unless you total it at the end of the lease). Gap doesn’t protect you, it only pays off the car for the bank.

Google it...don’t take my word for it.


... and if it makes you feel better, I can pay cash for the car but it makes no financial sense. Let your money work for you, my friend. (Passive Income)
 
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It's my understanding the mobile cords max at 32 amps anyway. My plan was to reduce the amps setting to 12 in the car (I believe you can do that on the screen correct?) for the 5-15 outlet if I ever used it. That is under the 15 amps for a normal circuit.
Correct, you can adjust the amps down to as low as 2-3. Suggest you consider installing 5-20, if the breaker and wiring will allow
 
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I don't think you are doing it right. Typically, if your circuit breaker is rated at X Amps, your safe operating Amps is 80%. So, for a 60A circuit breaker, you an draw a max of 48A safely. Converting a 14-50 to 5-15 using an adapter will make your 5-15A outlet heat up in no time and eventually burnout unless you are having a device (generally a step-down transformer) to reduce the Amps to 15Amps. Don't expect to draw 32A from 5-15 outlet. I suggest you either use 14-50 plug after extending it closer to user car using extension cord or have an electrician setup required breaker after reducing Amps to a lower number. Else, you will be running at your own risk.
Transformers don’t convert current ratings.
If the OP is asking to plug in their 14-50 cord to a 15A outlet, that’s fine. You are still limited to 120V and ~10A charge current - the cord doesn’t care, it’s just an overrated mass of copper. However, the mobile charger plugs tell the charger what’s plugged into them, and would likely immediately fault if the mobile connector saw 120V coming from a 14-50 plug attached. You convert both ends.

However, this is a terrible idea, as there may be a time when the cord is attached to a 240V plug and then adapted to a 120V outlet, which some devices will not tolerate. I don’t recommend using/making such plug converters unless absolutely necessary.
 
Correct, you can adjust the amps down to as low as 2-3. Suggest you consider installing 5-20, if the breaker and wiring will allow
I have two homes, so I installed the wall charger at one, and I'm trying to just test out plugging in normally at the 2nd house because the install will be pricey because of the situation. Here's hoping this can work at least in the interim.
 
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I have two homes, so I installed the wall charger at one, and I'm trying to just test out plugging in normally at the 2nd house because the install will be pricey because of the situation. Here's hoping this can work at least in the interim.
I used 120v charging for many months.
You loose 10% efficiency, but that is not much in terms of cost compared to a new 240V supply.
 
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OK, now I am curious, so....Draggy ordered and I will go find some backroad where I can responsible daly around a bit

I vote @omarsultan as the best Tesla car forum member EVER. Can't wait for these results! Incredible how you have put so much time into answering all the burning questions for forum members! Especially given how long of a wait some of us are going to have whilst waiting for delivery.
 
However, this is a terrible idea, as there may be a time when the cord is attached to a 240V plug and then adapted to a 120V outlet, which some devices will not tolerate. I don’t recommend using/making such plug converters unless absolutely necessary.
Even if I lower the amps setting on the screen to 12 or less? (Circuit is 15) I read about this somewhere else and the guy seemed very knowledgable and said this works fine. You just have the lower the setting in the car.
 
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Even if I lower the amps setting on the screen to 12 or less? (Circuit is 15) I read about this somewhere else and the guy seemed very knowledgable and said this works fine. You just have the lower the setting in the car.

Don't know your situation, but I'd really think you would benefit from going here and doing some research:

 
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