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Model S Technical / Mechanical Issues
- Thread starter DrComputer
- Start date
Bugeater
Member
Sorry that didn't work for you.
I hope the SC resolves the issue in a timely fashion.
Hey guys with the non-working exterior door handles, it could be a recent firmware load ( .30) that didn't push to all the actuators. This happened to me over the weekend and an SC visit might be in order. Call Tesla first to see if Freemont can dial in and check the status of the controller module for all the doors. If they see the firmware is different for one or some, they might be able to re-push it out.
mknox
Well-Known Member
Headlight Fogging
Rather than start a new thread, I thought I would post this here. In the cold, damp weather, I have noticed a build-up of condensation inside of both headlight lenses. My iPhone camera flash kind of over-emphasizes it, but this is what it looks like:
Rather than start a new thread, I thought I would post this here. In the cold, damp weather, I have noticed a build-up of condensation inside of both headlight lenses. My iPhone camera flash kind of over-emphasizes it, but this is what it looks like:
Eggplant
Member
I've seen this too. I've also seen this start to frost over on the inside of the housing on long cold drives. Those LEDs don't put out enough heat to keep it from frosting.
Reminds me of when they started replacing all the traffic lights here with LED versions. Then had to install heating elements in the light when they became covered in snow. The extra cost and electricity to run the heaters was an over all loss.
Reminds me of when they started replacing all the traffic lights here with LED versions. Then had to install heating elements in the light when they became covered in snow. The extra cost and electricity to run the heaters was an over all loss.
Duckjybe
Member
I haven't had this on my headlights but have just experienced it on my tail lights.
mknox
Well-Known Member
I had it in the white backup light lenses, but it was fixed at my last service visit.
Quick search didnt show any other posts about problems with charge port magnet peeled off cover. Sorry no pics.
Basically walked up to car and noticed the charge port hanging open. On close inspection, the adhesive on the cover was separated from the magnet on the door. I could close it and the adhesive would hold for a little while, but would pop open again eventually.
Tesla Service fixed it under warranty, in addition to a glove box that wouldn't close (tabs would get stuck in the panel).
edit: nevermind - saw a few pages back that someone else had a similar issue
Service also did some courtesy corrections -
Correction: Apply Loctite on C-Pillar Brightwork on Both Sides, Clean Area
Correction: Install Felt Tape, Inspect/Grind Crossmember, Inspect/Install Shims,
Inspect/Back out Spacer Bolts, Inspect/Move J Clips
Correction: Inspect Knuckle/Ball Joint Surfaces, Install 4 Front Lower Control Arm
Washers
Correction: Remove and Replace Glove Box, Rework Glove Box
glove box door repaired
Basically walked up to car and noticed the charge port hanging open. On close inspection, the adhesive on the cover was separated from the magnet on the door. I could close it and the adhesive would hold for a little while, but would pop open again eventually.
Tesla Service fixed it under warranty, in addition to a glove box that wouldn't close (tabs would get stuck in the panel).
edit: nevermind - saw a few pages back that someone else had a similar issue
Service also did some courtesy corrections -
Correction: Apply Loctite on C-Pillar Brightwork on Both Sides, Clean Area
Correction: Install Felt Tape, Inspect/Grind Crossmember, Inspect/Install Shims,
Inspect/Back out Spacer Bolts, Inspect/Move J Clips
Correction: Inspect Knuckle/Ball Joint Surfaces, Install 4 Front Lower Control Arm
Washers
Correction: Remove and Replace Glove Box, Rework Glove Box
glove box door repaired
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Yeah, my issue was same...
I also just got off the phone with my service center, and they are ordering me a new headliner. The edges of mine were fraying where it didn't quite extend far enough to be concealed by the door seals... so they said they'd replace it.
Maybe this should be a sub-forum instead of a thread so all the issues aren't piled into a deep thread.
My car encountered 2 problems today... broken sunroof wind deflector and condensation inside reverse and brake light lens. Condensation seems pretty common, not sure if Tesla found a fix for it yet.
Took a closer look at the broken sunroof wind deflector and found the plastic arm on the driver side that tilts up the wind deflector broken. The arm is made of plastic and pretty narrow (about 1/4" thick with some hallow channels inside for the spring) and there is pretty beefy torsion type spring under it that pops it up when the sunroof is opened. I see another online post that is likely the exact same failure. I'm guessing the arm is likely too weak to handle the amount of spring pressure.
Broken Sunroof Fixed Quickly - 2013 Tesla Model S Long-Term Road Test
My sunroof wouldn't close due to jammed broken arm. I had to reposition the broken pieces and close the roof 10% at a time to gradually get it closed for now. Have a after XMAS appointment to get it fixed. The service center stocks this part so I'm guessing it breaks fairly often. Here is a pic. Torsion spring laying sideways in the middle of the picture. Broken arm on the left and right.
UPDATE: SC replaced the wind deflector. Spoke to the tech and he said Tesla change the plastic to be beefier at around the time of my VIN 9919. A quick look on the new one seems to be the same shape so we'll see
My car encountered 2 problems today... broken sunroof wind deflector and condensation inside reverse and brake light lens. Condensation seems pretty common, not sure if Tesla found a fix for it yet.
Took a closer look at the broken sunroof wind deflector and found the plastic arm on the driver side that tilts up the wind deflector broken. The arm is made of plastic and pretty narrow (about 1/4" thick with some hallow channels inside for the spring) and there is pretty beefy torsion type spring under it that pops it up when the sunroof is opened. I see another online post that is likely the exact same failure. I'm guessing the arm is likely too weak to handle the amount of spring pressure.
Broken Sunroof Fixed Quickly - 2013 Tesla Model S Long-Term Road Test
My sunroof wouldn't close due to jammed broken arm. I had to reposition the broken pieces and close the roof 10% at a time to gradually get it closed for now. Have a after XMAS appointment to get it fixed. The service center stocks this part so I'm guessing it breaks fairly often. Here is a pic. Torsion spring laying sideways in the middle of the picture. Broken arm on the left and right.
UPDATE: SC replaced the wind deflector. Spoke to the tech and he said Tesla change the plastic to be beefier at around the time of my VIN 9919. A quick look on the new one seems to be the same shape so we'll see
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NotARichMan
New Member
I got a "behind the scenes" tour of our local SC the other day. The parts guys showed me the small box and a few items on the shelf that represented December's "trade ins". It took up a remarkably small section of the shelf. It was mostly made up of outside door handles that stopped functioning properly.
EarlyAdopter
Active Member
I experienced my first unexpected problem on my Model S in a year of ownership the other week when it was down in the teens (Fahrenheit).
I had my gym clothes on, which are dry-fit polyester and total static electricity generators. Well, when I got out of the car and touched the door handle to close the door I gave it a serious static discharge shock and the window rolled down an inch! Next day same thing happened again but this time it froze the window in the auto-down position and it refused to go up or down. I pulled the driver's window motor fuse to see if my shock blew it. It was fine, but the act of pulling the fuse seemed to reset it and it worked again.
Warmer, more humid weather since and I haven't experienced this again. I chalk it up to a tiny glitch in the Matrix.
I had my gym clothes on, which are dry-fit polyester and total static electricity generators. Well, when I got out of the car and touched the door handle to close the door I gave it a serious static discharge shock and the window rolled down an inch! Next day same thing happened again but this time it froze the window in the auto-down position and it refused to go up or down. I pulled the driver's window motor fuse to see if my shock blew it. It was fine, but the act of pulling the fuse seemed to reset it and it worked again.
Warmer, more humid weather since and I haven't experienced this again. I chalk it up to a tiny glitch in the Matrix.
Wow, I thought they had solved the 12v issue by the time my car shipped in August. I guess not.
When TM came to my house last week to deliver a replacement 14-50 adapter and UMC, the service guy said he was also going to replace my 12v battery. I have had no problems, but apparently its SOP to trade them out when service is done.
50/50 if it was just a bad battery or a bad sensor they found that caused the battery issue. Both 12v and main battery (where the sensor is) are being replaced. As a shareholder I sure hope Tesla does some sort of remanufacture of these main batteries when a single sensor goes out...
gg_got_a_tesla
Model S: VIN 65513, Model 3: VIN 1913
We may be seeing some evidence of this as some folks who got their cars deep in 2013 have reported the same 90 kW supercharging limitation (and the relevant battery pack identification scheme) as the Signatures and other late-2012 deliveries.
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