Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Model S Technical / Mechanical Issues

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
2 - This is worse, my back right door opens by itself! Happened three times since I got the car. SC can't repro so they claim they can't fix. Did not bother to do an inspection to make sure latch is correctly seated etc. It only seems to happen when I open/close the trunk. Now every time I need to check to make sure the door did not open before walking away!!

Have a mobile apt now to fix the front door handle issue. They also asked me to file a service request next time my back door opens itself, so they can check the logs. Not sure if they think they will see a "open door API request" in the logs. I am sure it is mechanical and they won't be able to fix until they do a thorough inspection.
@Mark II Same thing happens to my 2021 Plaid S. Rear passenger side door opens by itself while the car is sitting in the garage and also once when I closed the trunk. Did you get any resolution / cause?

Also if it got fixed, got a name of a tech at your service center I can direct mine to?
 
  • Informative
Reactions: Mark II
PS - STILL WAITING for softeware fix to charging error after TWO YEARS! Drops from 32amp to 16 amp charge on Scheduled unless I get up at 1.00am and uplug/replug. it'as a pita!
This used to happen to my old S too. I know you’ve probably tried this, but turn the car off and the charger off at the breaker and clean the charging connections with a w-tip and some rubbing alcohol.

Fixed my issue
 
  • Informative
Reactions: JRP3
@Mark II Same thing happens to my 2021 Plaid S. Rear passenger side door opens by itself while the car is sitting in the garage and also once when I closed the trunk. Did you get any resolution / cause?

Also if it got fixed, got a name of a tech at your service center I can direct mine to?
The SC looked at it, and could not repro, so did not fix. Then mobile tech looked at it and saw no problems. Both of them told me to note the time it happens then they could look at logs. I asked what they expect to see in the logs that would help them, other than "door open" event. How would this help them? They could not answer me. Basically they did not seem to care.

So I decided to investigate myself. First I decided to look at was the manual release, since it has a cable I thought it might be taut. Guess what, neither the SC or mobile crew looked at it. I know because the carpet was still intact, i.e. the perforation had not been broken (which I think is dumb for an emergency release, how are people supposed to find it if it is hidden??). I broke through the carpet, and guess what. The tab you pull was somehow tucked under the foam of the seat, causing the cable to be taut. I pulled it out, and now the problem is fixed.

You would think Tesla would put more effort into investigating a safety hazard. The door opened itself three times and a simple inspection would have found the issue!!
 
I took delivery of my vehicle and randomly I would get a speed limited message on my dash. Most of the time it would limit me to 111mph or so I wasn’t to concerned about it and service said wait for an update and see if it resolves. Got my first update and error continued and now it will start limiting my speed at 111mph but continue to drop as I drive to the point that I can no longer maintain a safe speed. Get out the car lock it and get back in and it goes away until it decides to show up again. Service said they see errors from the drive unit and bring it in. Now they need over a week to just look at it while I was put in a 2015 loaner with 100k miles on it. The windows don’t work on the loaner either and has to be charged constantly as it drops it’s charge rapidly. First Tesla after being a devoted BMW guy and I am sick to my stomach with how I’ve been treated by Tesla service. They said I should bring the loaner back and rent a car out of pocket while they figure it out.

What options do I have here? I shouldn’t be out of pocket for anything on a brand new car I just spent 6 figures on, IMO.
 
The SC looked at it, and could not repro, so did not fix. Then mobile tech looked at it and saw no problems. Both of them told me to note the time it happens then they could look at logs. I asked what they expect to see in the logs that would help them, other than "door open" event. How would this help them? They could not answer me. Basically they did not seem to care.

So I decided to investigate myself. First I decided to look at was the manual release, since it has a cable I thought it might be taut. Guess what, neither the SC or mobile crew looked at it. I know because the carpet was still intact, i.e. the perforation had not been broken (which I think is dumb for an emergency release, how are people supposed to find it if it is hidden??). I broke through the carpet, and guess what. The tab you pull was somehow tucked under the foam of the seat, causing the cable to be taut. I pulled it out, and now the problem is fixed.

You would think Tesla would put more effort into investigating a safety hazard. The door opened itself three times and a simple inspection would have found the issue!!
Thanks. I took a look at my release levers and the carpet is open there, but guess what - the emergency release doesn’t work at all on either side !
 
  • Informative
Reactions: Mark II
Thanks. I took a look at my release levers and the carpet is open there, but guess what - the emergency release doesn’t work at all on either side !
Is the thing you are trying to move a lever or something attached to a cord that you pull? At first I thought I had the lever, but it was actually the seat release. The emergency release is something that is inside a flap in the carpet and is attached to a cord that you pull. Once gain, not something that is easier to discover, especially when the car is burning and you are trying to get out in a hurry. Poor design in my opinion.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MFrunkerOG
Is the thing you are trying to move a lever or something attached to a cord that you pull? At first I thought I had the lever, but it was actually the seat release. The emergency release is something that is inside a flap in the carpet and is attached to a cord that you pull. Once gain, not something that is easier to discover, especially when the car is burning and you are trying to get out in a hurry. Poor design in my opinion.
Yup. That was the seat release I mentioned earlier. I found the door release tab just below it. Mine wasn’t taut and has a decent amount of play in it . At least now I know where it is.

And I agree - poor design to hide it like that.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mark II
Yup. That was the seat release I mentioned earlier. I found the door release tab just below it. Mine wasn’t taut and has a decent amount of play in it . At least now I know where it is.

And I agree - poor design to hide it like that.
The irony is the front ones are so easy to discover that my wife was using it as the primary way to open the door, which is apparently not a good idea as it does not drop the window as it opens and can cause damage.
 
Where there is the front emergency door release, AFAIK the front doors on Model S are mechanically opened with the pull on the door opener lever?
On the refresh Model S there is a button for opening normally and an emergency release.
1658104698148.png
1658104611301.png
 
PS - STILL WAITING for softeware fix to charging error after TWO YEARS! Drops from 32amp to 16 amp charge on Scheduled unless I get up at 1.00am and uplug/replug. it'as a pita!
Oh! I've been having this problem ever since I got my S Plaid refresh (2021) a year ago. Since it never got fixed with software by now, I thought I better start troubleshooting with a different charger and using with a different Tesla to see if it still happens.
Does it happen even if you aren't doing a scheduled charge? Mine will drop down regardless if it's a regular or scheduled charge. It doesn't always drop down, but probably 90% of the time.
I had read that it may have something to do with voltage drops, so I've been trying to make sure A/C/furnace is turned off as well as any other devices that might take a lot of power, but have still been experiencing drops.
 
Oh! I've been having this problem ever since I got my S Plaid refresh (2021) a year ago. Since it never got fixed with software by now, I thought I better start troubleshooting with a different charger and using with a different Tesla to see if it still happens.
Does it happen even if you aren't doing a scheduled charge? Mine will drop down regardless if it's a regular or scheduled charge. It doesn't always drop down, but probably 90% of the time.
I had read that it may have something to do with voltage drops, so I've been trying to make sure A/C/furnace is turned off as well as any other devices that might take a lot of power, but have still been experiencing drops.
I second @MFrunkerOG 's suggestion of cleaning the charge pins on the car and your cable connector. I used electrical contact cleaner and swabs. I suspect dirty pilot signal and ground pin connections can cause this.
 
  • Like
Reactions: aerodyne
Replaced the Leviton 6-50 receptable with a Hubbell brand. Problem resolved!
Surprised at the temp drop, as the Hubbell hardly gets to the mid 90's(F).

The Leviton receptable looked fine and I had also tried using some Deoxit cleaner on it just to make sure the plug is making good contact, but didn't make any difference.

Just happy to of finally resolved the issue.:)
 
Hi

I just bought a used 75d and there is a small clicking noise coming from the centre of the upper dashboard. I didn't find any solution from this board, but if I understood correct the removal of the upper dashboard is just 6 screws away - so before taking the car to SC (two months Tesla warranty left), I thought if I just have a look. The noise is like a loose connector hitting something inside the dashboard when accelerating or breaking.

But the passenger airbag is situated inside the upper dashboard. Is it enough to disable the airbag from the screen and then shut down the car or should I disconnect the 12v battery (bit more work there...) as a safety procedure ?

Thanks.