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MPP AWD/Performance Coilover Impression and Installation

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Over the Christmas break I installed the MPP suspension myself, first time doing such thing. Other than the spring removal which was stressful, it was rather straightforward; note that I had also installed the rear toe/camber arms and the front control arms, so I was familiar with what it would take. This thread helped quite a bit, with the instructions from @MountainPass always being on the brief side (love you guys, but that's where things could improve a bit!).

My goal was to lower less than 1'' on my M3P, about 20mm, so I decided to start with 12mm above the recommendation, or 10mm at the perch. I first did some measurements, and this inside caliper https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002PU5HHY/ was quite useful to measure the heights to the battery and later for adjustments to the rear perch post-install.
I first did the rears over a couple of afternoons; was happy when I saw the same differential drop, and went for a 90mile ride over the bumpy LA freeways; the rears settled 4mm further.
Then another two half-days to do the fronts; I considered having somebody else remove the springs, but did it myself taking it easy with the spring compressors. I have a couple of suggestions for Jessie regarding the front instructions steps, will email him.
On a final day I did a small correction to all sides (roughly 1 mm) and re-measured the hub-to-fender and floor-to-fender heights after leveling with vinyl tiles and a good laser level. Total drop was around 19mm, about a 2 finger gap. Goal achieved!

Driving: the default 12/10 appeared to be similar to stock (as in not scary harsh), but for a first real drive I decided to try 9/7 on the canyons. The moment I drove off I had a smile on my face, and even though I was not driving fast, the handling in the canyons was quite awesome, while not being too harsh for me.
A big concern was the ride quality for the family; tried the street recommendation of 14/13 but it was a bit dull, so on on the way to alignment shop I went back to the initial 12/10; I was surprised at how composed the car was on the 5 freeway south from the 101, where in some sections the car used to pitch back and forth quite a bit.
The good thing about the 2 finger gap is that I can still reach the rear rebound with my fingers, so after a quick parking lot stop, I drove back with 10/8 which I thought was very close to what I wanted, with only too much feedback coming from the front, which over a long drive can fatigue you (the MPP lower control arm bushing provides plenty of feedback already!). So I reduced the front compression to 10, and voila!, nailed it for me (10/10 front, then tweaked the rears to 10/9). That's the daily setting for now.

The real test was when my wife drove to work; she said it was very good, "feels firm but smooth, what did you do?" (I was grinning).
So there you go, a big thumbs up and stamp of approval, and cannot wait to see how it does on the track! Now I only need that SA2020 helmet to finally ship...
 
Over the Christmas break I installed the MPP suspension myself, first time doing such thing. Other than the spring removal which was stressful, it was rather straightforward; note that I had also installed the rear toe/camber arms and the front control arms, so I was familiar with what it would take. This thread helped quite a bit, with the instructions from @MountainPass always being on the brief side (love you guys, but that's where things could improve a bit!).

My goal was to lower less than 1'' on my M3P, about 20mm, so I decided to start with 12mm above the recommendation, or 10mm at the perch. I first did some measurements, and this inside caliper https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002PU5HHY/ was quite useful to measure the heights to the battery and later for adjustments to the rear perch post-install.
I first did the rears over a couple of afternoons; was happy when I saw the same differential drop, and went for a 90mile ride over the bumpy LA freeways; the rears settled 4mm further.
Then another two half-days to do the fronts; I considered having somebody else remove the springs, but did it myself taking it easy with the spring compressors. I have a couple of suggestions for Jessie regarding the front instructions steps, will email him.
On a final day I did a small correction to all sides (roughly 1 mm) and re-measured the hub-to-fender and floor-to-fender heights after leveling with vinyl tiles and a good laser level. Total drop was around 19mm, about a 2 finger gap. Goal achieved!

Driving: the default 12/10 appeared to be similar to stock (as in not scary harsh), but for a first real drive I decided to try 9/7 on the canyons. The moment I drove off I had a smile on my face, and even though I was not driving fast, the handling in the canyons was quite awesome, while not being too harsh for me.
A big concern was the ride quality for the family; tried the street recommendation of 14/13 but it was a bit dull, so on on the way to alignment shop I went back to the initial 12/10; I was surprised at how composed the car was on the 5 freeway south from the 101, where in some sections the car used to pitch back and forth quite a bit.
The good thing about the 2 finger gap is that I can still reach the rear rebound with my fingers, so after a quick parking lot stop, I drove back with 10/8 which I thought was very close to what I wanted, with only too much feedback coming from the front, which over a long drive can fatigue you (the MPP lower control arm bushing provides plenty of feedback already!). So I reduced the front compression to 10, and voila!, nailed it for me (10/10 front, then tweaked the rears to 10/9). That's the daily setting for now.

The real test was when my wife drove to work; she said it was very good, "feels firm but smooth, what did you do?" (I was grinning).
So there you go, a big thumbs up and stamp of approval, and cannot wait to see how it does on the track! Now I only need that SA2020 helmet to finally ship...

@jmarcos,

Awesome write up! Thanks for taking the time. Very descriptive. I may have missed it so apologies if so......Comfort or Sports?

Ski
 
Does anyone have any real world experience with the sport vs comfort versions?

I’m looking to drop the car a bit and tighten it up in the corners a bit. I’m very unlikely to track the car so I would favor a slightly smoother ride than stock over a track set up if it came to it. I do find my 21’ M3P a little harsh on less than perfect roads.

thanks in advance for the help.
 
Does anyone have any real world experience with the sport vs comfort versions?

I’m looking to drop the car a bit and tighten it up in the corners a bit. I’m very unlikely to track the car so I would favor a slightly smoother ride than stock over a track set up if it came to it. I do find my 21’ M3P a little harsh on less than perfect roads.

thanks in advance for the help.
We have both sets. My wife's car has the Comfort adjustable and I have the sports kit. They're both excellent. A big problem with the ride on the 2021 is the Pirelli P Zero Tire with that exacerbated by the extremely heavy stock OEM wheel. You can replace that Tire with a Michelin Pilot Sport 4S and get significant Improvement in ride. Not cheap though at 325 bucks a tire. Better yet replace both wheels and tires with a lightweight forged wheel and the 4S. But that's obviously even less cheap! :D. But those two changes will make a huge difference in your ride.

The Comfort kit is really very smooth riding, and its wide range of adjustment in terms of shock valving means that you can track the car if you set the shocks significantly firmer, and get a much better ride the rest of the time with the shocks set at the default 12/10. The sports kit is slightly firmer than stock set its default but it is a grip monster when the shocks are set towards the firmer numbers. I suspect you'd be very happy with a comfort adjustable kit set basically at default 12/10. Ride is better and handling is better too. A bit less roll in the corners, better control over major undulations, and less jiggly/bouncy.
 
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We have both sets. My wife's car has the Comfort adjustable and I have the sports kit. They're both excellent. A big problem with the ride on the 2021 is the Pirelli P Zero Tire with that exacerbated by the extremely heavy stock OEM wheel. You can replace that Tire with a Michelin Pilot Sport 4S and get significant Improvement in ride. Not cheap though at 325 bucks a tire. Better yet replace both wheels and tires with a lightweight forged wheel and the 4S. But that's obviously even less cheap! :D. But those two changes will make a huge difference in your ride.

The Comfort kit is really very smooth riding, and its wide range of adjustment in terms of shock valving means that you can track the car if you set the shocks significantly firmer, and get a much better ride the rest of the time with the shocks set at the default 12/10. The sports kit is slightly firmer than stock set its default but it is a grip monster when the shocks are set towards the firmer numbers. I suspect you'd be very happy with a comfort adjustable kit set basically at default 12/10. Ride is better and handling is better too. A bit less roll in the corners, better control over major undulations, and less jiggly/bouncy.

Thanks so much for the reply, this was super helpful.

I really like the look of the uberturbines even though they may as well be boat anchors, I would definitely consider getting rid of the p zeros though. I have a set of Michelin’s on my 2020 M3P which I’m going to be selling soon. Would the p zeros fit on the old 20’s? Could maybe switch them before I sell it. Only 3000 miles on them.
 
Thanks so much for the reply, this was super helpful.

I really like the look of the uberturbines even though they may as well be boat anchors, I would definitely consider getting rid of the p zeros though. I have a set of Michelin’s on my 2020 M3P which I’m going to be selling soon. Would the p zeros fit on the old 20’s? Could maybe switch them before I sell it. Only 3000 miles on them.

The Pirelli's will fit on the old 20's fine. They do seem to be quite a bit more efficient compared to the Michelin's in my experience. Though, I don't think the performance is up to snuff.
 
Thanks so much for the reply, this was super helpful.

I really like the look of the uberturbines even though they may as well be boat anchors, I would definitely consider getting rid of the p zeros though. I have a set of Michelin’s on my 2020 M3P which I’m going to be selling soon. Would the p zeros fit on the old 20’s? Could maybe switch them before I sell it. Only 3000 miles on them.
Yes the P Zeros will fit on the 8.5 inch older turbine 20in Wheels. Then if you like the look of the Uber turbines you can get the Michelin Pilot Sport for those, and you will get some significant Improvement in ride.
 
Anything important of note? I am planning on getting mine on Saturday
For the fronts, step 13 as of today "Install the top hat and torque nut...", I think it makes more sense to partially tighten the top nut and then move the combined front upper control arm + coilover back into the body, partially align the whole thing with the 13mm and 15mm bolts, and then tighten/torque the top hat nut followed by the locknut. Otherwise the top hat is going to be at random orientation. Seemed pretty obvious when I was working on it, hard to describe in writing.
 
Got it wrapped up yesterday.

Getting the stock top hats off the front springs was a problem. Even with a fast impact they still spun. Ended up backing the spring compressors off slightly a few times to keep pressure on it while we spun it off.

We set spring perch offsets to recommended heights and it was a bit higher than recommended battery height and hub to fender so we jacked it back up and lowered the front perch height to 59mm and rear is at 8mm. Drove around the neighborhood, hit every storm drain bump we could to settle it as much as possible :p

This kept the same 5mm rake from front to back and put us right at about 354mm hub to fender on the front. I couldn’t measure battery height good because of drainage slope in my garage but I measured it at the very front on the side closest to the tire and it was 113mm. 107mm with me in it.

It looks LOW but everything seems to be where it was recommended. I came from owning Corvettes for the last 8 years so I’m not afraid of lower cars. Will have to see how it shakes out once I can drive it in March.

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Are you guys running anything like Antiseize on the coilover threads to keep them from seizing from debris/dirt? Or just making sure they're clean before adjusting. I don't run my car in the winter right now but in the next few years I am looking to get a C8 Z06 or GT3 and will be moving the 3 to winter duty so want to keep them decent.
 
Are you guys running anything like Antiseize on the coilover threads to keep them from seizing from debris/dirt? Or just making sure they're clean before adjusting. I don't run my car in the winter right now but in the next few years I am looking to get a C8 Z06 or GT3 and will be moving the 3 to winter duty so want to keep them decent.

I don't spray anything on mine but we don't have rough winters or salted roads here in the PNW like other parts of the US.
 
Are you guys running anything like Antiseize on the coilover threads to keep them from seizing from debris/dirt? Or just making sure they're clean before adjusting. I don't run my car in the winter right now but in the next few years I am looking to get a C8 Z06 or GT3 and will be moving the 3 to winter duty so want to keep them decent.

It’s best to keep the threads dry, as any grease/lube will collect dirt. Corrosion won’t be a problem due to the Inox stainless steel, so I personally clean loose dirt from the threads with high pressure air before carrying out adjustments.