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[Speculation] Production 18" Wheels without Aero Cover

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It looks like we've now seen two Model 3's without their Aero covers on. One was a pre-production model that looked like the rims were just unfinished steel, while the other one was a production model that looks like the rims had a nice titanium colored finish.

I'm not going to debate which it is, or even if the spoked wheel we've been discussing is really the shape that's under there.

But... IF it is the spoked shaped rims under there, AND it's just unfinished steel like we saw on the pre-production model, is something like this (and a Tesla center cap) all that is required to make it look like the titanium colored finish we saw on the production model?

Raw Titanium Wheel Kit

And how hard is something like that to apply properly for someone who's never tried something like this before?
 
It looks like we've now seen two Model 3's without their Aero covers on. One was a pre-production model that looked like the rims were just unfinished steel, while the other one was a production model that looks like the rims had a nice titanium colored finish.

I'm not going to debate which it is, or even if the spoked wheel we've been discussing is really the shape that's under there.

But... IF it is the spoked shaped rims under there, AND it's just unfinished steel like we saw on the pre-production model, is something like this (and a Tesla center cap) all that is required to make it look like the titanium colored finish we saw on the production model?

Raw Titanium Wheel Kit

And how hard is something like that to apply properly for someone who's never tried something like this before?
They were not unfinished steel. They were just finished in silver instead of the darker grey they are now. And they are cast aluminum, not steel.

They are covers. 100% positive, no question about it. If you get your car with the standard wheels and remove the covers, the dark grey wheel is what you will have. No need to worry about having to paint them.

Not sure why we are still debating this. As I've said in other posts, for those who doubt it is a cover, take a look and tell me how you remove the lug nuts?
 
They were not unfinished steel. They were just finished in silver instead of the darker grey they are now. And they are cast aluminum, not steel.

They are covers. 100% positive, no question about it. If you get your car with the standard wheels and remove the covers, the dark grey wheel is what you will have. No need to worry about having to paint them.

Not sure why we are still debating this. As I've said in other posts, for those who doubt it is a cover, take a look and tell me how you remove the lug nuts?


Agreed, this has pretty much been settled.
 
They were not unfinished steel. They were just finished in silver instead of the darker grey they are now. And they are cast aluminum, not steel.

They are covers. 100% positive, no question about it. If you get your car with the standard wheels and remove the covers, the dark grey wheel is what you will have. No need to worry about having to paint them.

Not sure why we are still debating this. As I've said in other posts, for those who doubt it is a cover, take a look and tell me how you remove the lug nuts?

What if the cover is ONLY the darker plastic?
 
Until there is video of an aero cover being removed, there isn't any proof of the wheel that lies underneath. So far there has been none, only "before" and supposedly "after" pics, and no verification of the attachment method.

While that is true, the details on the "after" pics show details that only make sense in the context of fitting the aero covers. The little blocks on the rim to keep the aero cover perfectly flush with the lip, the off-centre valve stem, and the fact that the colour on both the RC and production wheel match the colour of the ring around the aero covers on those cars. Balance of probability is 99% in favour of those being what is behind the aero covers.
 
A good tyre can slow down by as much as ~ 1.2G and a heavy car..

I done some G-force stop testing lately on different cars (project I'm working on) and the model S with stock 19" and stock brakes can achieve this kind of braking force... If Ludicrous can propel you at more than 1G it makes sense to have brakes that can slow you down just as hard.

For any production car, you should be able to press the accelerator fully and the brakes fully, and the brakes shall win.

When you try this in model S, of course it's too smart and does nothing but pop up a warning saying to the effect "dummy you are pressing both pedals".
 
Seems like an argument for the Model 3 to be a front wheel drive based car. Would also have provided additional differentiation between it and the Model S. Most people wouldn't have cared, nor noticed.
One of the major design factors of M3 was to simplify the car and the manufacturing process in order to keep cost down. FWD is both more complicated and more costly.
 
It's not obvious to me that FWD is more costly with an EV. While I much prefer RWD, the FWD configuration would likely have better regenerative capability. Still glad it's RWD!
FWD requires costly CV joints (constant velocity) to enable the wheels to steer under power, pretty much doubling the complexity of the drive train vs RWD; more parts, more assembly steps, more cost, also somewhat heavier than RWD shafts.
How could regen be stronger with FWD? Same mass, velocity motor size = same regen. It can be argued that RWD regen is a little more stable in slippery conditions since braking on front wheels could tend to allow the rear to skid out.
 
FWD requires costly CV joints (constant velocity) to enable the wheels to steer under power, pretty much doubling the complexity of the drive train vs RWD; more parts, more assembly steps, more cost, also somewhat heavier than RWD shafts.

Rwd with any sort of independent suspension also requires CV joints, and no way would I call anything with a solid rear axle a performance car. Fwd drive is cheaper and safer in ICE world, otherwise Toyota corolla's would still be rwd. With the motor and transaxle package being relatively compact in an EV it's probably a fairly minor cost increase to install it at the back. A bit more plumbing to get the coolant loops to the cabin and radiators maybe.
 
When decelerating more weight is shifted onto the front wheels. That's why the nose of a car dips when braking. Same idea for why RWD is better for acceleration.
It's not true that FWD has more effective regen. The benefit of RWD during acceleration is that it reduces the wheel slip through higher vertical forces on the tire. However, max regen creates only about 25% of the force the tire can take before it slips: 0.3g vs 1.2g.
 
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