Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Wiki Sudden Loss Of Range With 2019.16.x Software

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
I'm the owner of this sheet. I can reassure you that it was not intentional on my part.

Seems when first sharing the sheet I simply forgot to check the checkbox "Prevent editors from changing access and adding new people".

I saved a screenshot with a list of users who added permissions for themselves and maybe removed the public share afterwards.

The public share is now active again.

Thanks @Guillaume.

People also filter the sheet and leave it as filtered, which has caused confusion as some think the sheet has shrunken with the entries missing, which leads them to add themselves again. Would you please add to the top of the sheet (row 1, 2, etc.) the rules, tips, and warnings for this sheet, bolded in red. Thanks again.
 
Thanks @Guillaume.

People also filter the sheet and leave it as filtered, which has caused confusion as some think the sheet has shrunken with the entries missing, which leads them to add themselves again. Would you please add to the top of the sheet (row 1, 2, etc.) the rules, tips, and warnings for this sheet, bolded in red. Thanks again.

Also, block "Tesla" and the "Tesla apologists" :)
 
I ended up buying:-
a cheap new Android phone (Nokia 1)
getting the Scan my Tesla app (more details in this thread Vendor - Scan My Tesla, a CANBUS reader for Android)
buying the correct cable from US (Tesla Diagnostic Port Adapter Cable (Model X/S post Sep-2015) 680201861183 | eBay) (price seems to have gone up)
and also buying an OBD2 bluetooth adaptor (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OBDLink-LX-427201-ScanTool-Bluetooth-Professional-OBD-II-Scan-Tool-for-Andr/202462881688?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649) - price has also gone up!

The correct port is under the main screen (not the OBD port on our RHD drivers side) - accessed by hard popping the cubby down.

Simples! Well not really but is once you have it all working and understand all the bits you need. The hardest thing in UK is getting the cable.

There is an Apple app (TM Spy?) though if you want to avoid the android route. Android Scan my Tesla has all the relevant info you could need and I like it.

$100 for that cable? There has to be DIY guide on how to make it that someone can link. The connectors are just few bucks, just need to know the pin connections on both sides.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ferrycraigs
I ignored the joke and was just flagging the underlying claim. The bolded statements did not give all the details and so were incomplete, as they have to be to some extent to protect proprietary info, but still frustratingly so for some, but not BS.

Ah, now you are talking ... I see. Frustratingly to you (to some), BS to me. The same difference ;)

On Edit: What's the propose of relentlessly splitting hairs in this thread by you and that other poster you constantly agree with?
 
Last edited:
Tesla also suggested I trade in my car (for $15,000) and buy a P100D for $150,000.

currently P100D Raven is $106k even with FSD. Why would you say $150k which is obviously false? What else are you posting as fact which is not true?

I was Supercharging once a day prior.
But, quite the contrary, i have 2 people here that Supercharge even more and have over 220,000 miles.

supercharging once a day is still degrading to the battery and the effects may present themselves on a probabilistic basis -- like having unsafe sex. Your friends may do it a lot without consequences.

The variability in response from different service centers described below is the most alarming thing that I've seen in this thread. More so than the also annoying tight lipped communication -- but the communication is tolerable to me while they presumably need time to do proper diagnosis and determine proper treatment, if any, and make sure they officially say correct things. Service centers making stuff up like below is the worst.

Sorry I'm late to the party here. 2013 P85 83K. Mine started a little different. My HV battery went bad 3 months ago and was replaced shortly before the update, At pickup it only showed 226 and I was told to the BMS needed to cycle a few times and it would go back to 250 or better (I have a nice clip). After many cycles, no change. I could go 210 miles at 300 wh/mi and hit motor reduction, with 10 miles left. 6 visits were terminated with texts like these;

Good morning this is Tedd with Tesla service. I have looked into your vehicle over your battery range concern. I am pleased to say that the High Voltage battery in your vehicle is healthy and shows no signs of issues or active alerts. The HV battery installed in your vehicle is a Tesla re-manufactured HV battery that is slightly better rated than the HV battery that was removed due to an internal failure. It is also important to remember that the rated range displayed next to the HV battery charge level on the center display is just an estimation and does not reflect the true range of the vehicle, as the end-of-drive conditions are based on real-time battery measurements of reducing battery power, rather than software estimates.No further diagnosis is needed and service visit not required at this time, would you like to cancel your appointment?

Further diagnosing into your concern along with your recent timestamp found no faults or active issues or alerts with your vehicle or the High Voltage battery system. The HV battery installed in your vehicle is a Tesla re-manufactured HV battery that is equal to or better than the HV battery removed. Both batteries have a build date of 2013 and the HV battery installed in the vehicle right now shows to be slightly better than the battery removed. For trying to calculate the batteries Kilowatt hour capacity it is important to remember that HV battery contains an energy reserve within the over all capacity. It also will use battery energy to maintain the 12v battery and run the vehicle's HVAC system to heat or cool the HV battery when the even when the vehicle is not in use. Your vehicle is working as designed for its age and usage. We can cancel this appointment at this time.

I finally got an appointment at a different SC that wasn't cancelled. On Friday the 9th of August, I went in and instead of blowing me off they fell all over themselves. Told me that they had this happen to someone else and would see if my pack had been limited to 90%. Surprise! My pack had this mysterious bug. They said they would call California and get me on a list. They said an update would come this week that I would not notice and it would be back to 248 or better. We'll see.
 
Last edited:
This is great read if you haven’t seen it before. Lots of details on charging Li-ion although it doesn’t get into mitigation strategies for older batteries.


Charging Lithium-Ion Batteries
This may or may not be relevant to the BMS used by Tesla. We can all assume Tesla KNOWS this and have their BMS adjusted appropriately. The nominal degradation reported by thousands of actual users is much less than 10% even after 200,000 miles of use and more than 1,000 charge cycles.

Again, this issue has NOTHING to do with degradation.
 
Last edited:
I tried charging at home last night to 100% and again it stopped at 98%.
ScanMyTesla shows 226 mile full rated range. So, up from 217, but still way down from 247.
Screenshot_20190811-064743_Chrome.jpg

FusionCharts.jpg
 
I ended up buying:-
a cheap new Android phone (Nokia 1)
getting the Scan my Tesla app (more details in this thread Vendor - Scan My Tesla, a CANBUS reader for Android)
buying the correct cable from US (Tesla Diagnostic Port Adapter Cable (Model X/S post Sep-2015) 680201861183 | eBay) (price seems to have gone up)
and also buying an OBD2 bluetooth adaptor (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OBDLink-LX-427201-ScanTool-Bluetooth-Professional-OBD-II-Scan-Tool-for-Andr/202462881688?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649) - price has also gone up!

The correct port is under the main screen (not the OBD port on our RHD drivers side) - accessed by hard popping the cubby down.

Simples! Well not really but is once you have it all working and understand all the bits you need. The hardest thing in UK is getting the cable.

There is an Apple app (TM Spy?) though if you want to avoid the android route. Android Scan my Tesla has all the relevant info you could need and I like it.
Thanks. That is really helpful. I Presume the cables work for either Android or IOS.

Apologies for drifting off topic, sort of.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DJRas
currently P100D Raven is $106k even with FSD. Why would you say $150k which is obviously false? What else are you posting as fact which is not true?

This is astonishing!

@DJRas made a figurative comparison. His point was one car is more expensive than the other. You nitpick by accusing him he not telling the truth not only about the trivial price comparison but introducing doubts as to the trustfulness of his other posts. Amazing?

What's your agenda in this thread? How many miles have you lost?

Peace.
 
I'm simply assessing credibility. If it actually happened it is so easy for him to get the price right.

If he made that up, what other details is he making up? Was the trade in price made up also? Was the whole conversation made up as well?

I've no agenda other than to respond with facts and evidence and logic -- and now, to assess facts, queries re credibility assessments.

Also telling now is this outraged response to a simple credibility observation.

This is astonishing!

@DJRas made a figurative comparison. His point was one car is more expensive than the other. You nitpick by accusing him he not telling the truth not only about the trivial price comparison but introducing doubts as to the trustfulness of his other posts. Amazing?

What's your agenda in this thread? How many miles have you lost?

Peace.
 
Last edited:
This may or may not be relevant to the BMS used by Tesla. We can all assume Tesla KNOWS this and have their BMS adjusted appropriately. The nominal degradation reported by thousands of actual users is much less than 10% even after 200,000 miles of use and more than 1,000 charge cycles.

Again, this issue has NOTHING to do with degradation.
To me, the quoted article makes it clear that managing battery life is done in a variety of ways. It also talked about limiting “saturation” charge to increase battery life and reduce the chances of combustion. The methods are all over the map and using them is not indicative of if a defective battery. This type of research will be their exhibit A, and you will have to tell the judge why Tesla shouldn’t be able to limit peak battery charge on an older battery exhibiting stress while it’s OK for other battery users to do so. Using the “stole my battery capacity” argument isn’t going to fly when Tesla brings in battery experts (including outside experts) that actually know what they are talking about. Now, your other grievances are valid in my opinion. The abhorrent communications policy, used car advertised range, etc all need addressing. I’m still hoping Tesla has an epiphany and does right with you guys even if they could win the suit, similar to what Apple did. They have a chance to make some of you loyal customers but seem more interested in protecting their ego.

Now the usual suspects can click your disagree button ;)

PS I love it when people disagree with the linking of an utterly neutral battery charging explanation. It really shows how closed minded some are.
 
Last edited:
Tesla also suggested I trade in my car (for $15,000) and buy a P100D for $150,000. All because the battery is defective.

Please share more details. Did they really offer you $15k for your current car? Did they really price a new P100D at $150k? When did they make this offer? Was the context of this trade in conversation really about your battery being defective? Was it the service tech personnel that made this offer or was it a sales person? At what service or sales center? What was the full conversation? What exactly did they say?

If you want us to believe you, please provide sufficient details to make your statement credible -- or if you weren't quite accurate in your original statement, then please clarify.

PSA: If you initiate litigation, you better be prepared to stop making stuff up, and always be precise and religiously accurate in everything you say about the matter of the litigation.
 
Last edited: