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Tesla Model 3 in Australia

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It is just at the underbody and non visible part of the bumper so not a problem.

I had read about the galvanic corrosion that could happen when a steel tow hitch is in direct contact with the aluminium chassis on a model S. Is the model 3 made of steel only?
It’s a mix of aluminium (doors, bonnet, parcel shelf in the boot...etc) and steel (structure, pillars..etc) The video shows them using nylon washers between the hitch assembly and the body of the M3, so we might assume it’s aluminium at that location.
 
It’s a mix of aluminium (doors, bonnet, parcel shelf in the boot...etc) and steel (structure, pillars..etc) The video shows them using nylon washers between the hitch assembly and the body of the M3, so we might assume it’s aluminium at that location.
Model 3 appears to have a rather complicated mixture of aluminium and steel. The interview Musk gave about improvements to Model Y design over Model 3 mention this:
Tesla's Elon Musk details Model Y manufacturing improvements, insight on design
The design of Tesla’s Model Y and lessons learned from Model 3 production also led to some manufacturing improvements for the electric crossover. Musk detailed how the Model Y underbody was switched to aluminium casting instead of stamped steel and aluminium pieces, which greatly simplifies the moving parts involved in making the vehicle.

This change effectively means that initially, using two castings to make the structure will take the process from 70 parts to 4 (castings plus joiners), and once the “big” casting machine comes into operation, the process will have brought the process from 70 parts to 1 (casting only).
 
Those of you who had ordered, if you wanted to use Tesla finance, did you have to commit to it when you placed your order? Can you wait till it is closer to delivery before deciding on using Tesla finance? As there could be as many as two interest rate cuts by the time the car gets delivered if I order one now, I don’t want to be locked into the current interest rate.
 
You won't be locked in to any rate until closer to delivery. They will quote you an indicative rate, and when the final invoice is issued by Tesla (usually a week or two before delivery) the finance and rate is locked in. This is how mine worked when I purchased my S (was through CBA, but it will be pretty much the same for any financier).

edit: I think Tesla use Macquarie as the finance company, so you have to apply to them anyway
 
Black on Black Performance +. Would have preferred Black on white but CBF waiting any longer. Also ticked the FSD box but will keep my options open up until the order is confirmed.
 

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As you may know, supercharger sites around Australia and New Zealand are being converted to add CCS2 cables for the Model 3. Richmond SC in Victoria is the first cab off the rank.

Here is a spreadsheet which can be used to track which sites (and how many stalls) have been done. The Europeans had a similar sheet. Yes, this one is heavily based on theirs! Given we only have 41 sites total I'm hoping it will be easier to track!

Supercharger CCS Tracker - Australia/New Zealand
 
Arghhh stuffed up. Decided on the red, and went through the ordering process expecting to find a spot to add a referral code - and there was none!

Some YouTubing afterwards has indicated that I should've started with the referral code first.

I might call Tesla tomorrow and see what they can do...anyone had any success in adding one later?
 
Arghhh stuffed up. Decided on the red, and went through the ordering process expecting to find a spot to add a referral code - and there was none!
Don't feel bad, you are one of many.
The procedure to include the referral code is very counter-intuitive.
As Tesla (by their own admission) is a tech company first (car maker second), you have to assume it is by design.
Similarly, the process to add the referral post order is very onerous.
You have to cancel your order and re-submit it with another $3000 deposit. I was advised (by Tesla) the initial $3000 could take up to 2 months to be refunded.
Welcome to the Tesla customer experience!
 
Arghhh stuffed up. Decided on the red, and went through the ordering process expecting to find a spot to add a referral code - and there was none!

Some YouTubing afterwards has indicated that I should've started with the referral code first.

I might call Tesla tomorrow and see what they can do...anyone had any success in adding one later?

Same thing happened to me! And it’s a royal pain in the ass. I called them and a second I had read elsewhere it’s no longer possible to add later.

So you need to place a new order again, pay deposit again and get them to cancel the first order. Problem is you can’t cancel online, their call centre is super busy and when you do cancel I can’t see any confirmation that the order has been cancelled. Now I also have to wait a month for my first deposit to be refunded.

If I had to do it again I wouldn’t bother. Not worth the small saving you might never even use.
 
Same thing happened to me! And it’s a royal pain in the ass. I called them and a second I had read elsewhere it’s no longer possible to add later.

So you need to place a new order again, pay deposit again and get them to cancel the first order. Problem is you can’t cancel online, their call centre is super busy and when you do cancel I can’t see any confirmation that the order has been cancelled. Now I also have to wait a month for my first deposit to be refunded.

If I had to do it again I wouldn’t bother. Not worth the small saving you might never even use.
Same thing happened to me, I knew about referral codes, just thought you added them during the order process, rather than before.
The actual dollar value of a referral code can be worked out though.
If we assume a Model is rated in the US as having a combined Highway/City consumption of 250Wh per mile, that converts to 15.5 KWh per 100km, so 1500km equates to 233KWh. Tesla charges $0.42 per KWh in Australia, so 233KWh would cost $98.
So a referral code, if these assumptions are correct, is worth $98.
You're right, djayz, not worth the hassle to cancel and reorder.
 
Assuming a cost of 42 cents per kWh. 1500 k's is approx 400kwh. So 400 x .42c = $168
Loss of $3000 for 2 months @3%pa = $15
Profit to cancel and redo order = $153
That profit is assuming you actually use that much supercharging in that 6 month time that it is valid for. If you mostly charge at home and only couple of times a year use supercharging, it may cut deeply into that profit.
 
Making 10% from $3k from buying the right shares at the right time isnt tricky. On that basis cancelling is loss making.

With my history, I'd probably turn that $3,000 into $2,500 in no time...

I couldn't see myself going to a supercharger more than twice in the first 6 months given the existing infrastructure in WA. So I'd probably be looking at adding about 250km range on the first go (home -> Eaton) then 350km range on the way back past. If jontyh's figures are correct, I'm probably missing out on around $40 worth - or at worst around $70 using PJF000's numbers.

Now I don't feel so annoyed!