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Tesla Model 3 in Australia

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You mean that you have to tap it on the pillar?

The fobs don't have passive entry. Or you mean that you press the buttons (as on a normal fob) and nothing happens?
I mean it does nothing when you press the buttons on the Fob. Only works when you tap it on the pillar and behind the cup holders like the key cards. I am aware there is not meant to be passive entry with the fob.

I am assuming that the buttons maybe don’t work due to RF spectrum regulations in Australia being different to the US?
 
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Thanks all for your replies on phone/key profile pairing. For the moment we have un-associated the keys from profiles as it was too frustrating, but will try swapping them around and report back!

edit: oh, but that's not going to work when there's only one key in range, then it's going to be wrong...

The DS told us that if both our phones are Bluetooth paired to our car, the passenger (non-driver) needs to disable BT otherwise the car may use the wrong profile. We've been doing that and it has worked for us.
 
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I mean it does nothing when you press the buttons on the Fob. Only works when you tap it on the pillar and behind the cup holders like the key cards. I am aware there is not meant to be passive entry with the fob.

I am assuming that the buttons maybe don’t work due to RF spectrum regulations in Australia being different to the US?
It's possible. It could also just be a dead battery in the fob?
 
The DS told us that if both our phones are Bluetooth paired to our car, the passenger (non-driver) needs to disable BT otherwise the car may use the wrong profile. We've been doing that and it has worked for us.
Hrm. I think it'd be easier to manually select the profiles than to disable and reenable bluetooth all the time.
 
The DS told us that if both our phones are Bluetooth paired to our car, the passenger (non-driver) needs to disable BT otherwise the car may use the wrong profile. We've been doing that and it has worked for us.

Yesterday it happened to me again, and my wife's phone wasn't even in range when the profile switch happened. I was sitting in the car when my wife drove off in her car, 2 minutes later I put my foot on the brake and boom, wrong profile selected. It must pick a profile when the car gets unlocked.
 
Yes, I noticed this too, and the sparky just installed my wall charger (connector). I believe he set it up to 32A - 3 phase. The screen only shows 16A (with the red 3 indicater) and 11 kw, but not km\hr rate, and the car charges fine, wondering if he set it up right?
The Model 3 AC charger is only 11kW, so you are seeing exactly the correct amount of power from your wall charger. If you plugged in a car with a 22kW AC charger then you would see a 32A charge rate, so all is well.
 
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Why would you need that the phone app does it all?

btw you will have to either get an api token or hand over your credentials to an unknown 3rd party..

Often my phone is in my pocket while I am working on my laptop, just glancing at my menu bar is easier than getting my phone out of my pocket, unlocking it, opening the Tesla app and waiting or it to start up and refresh. Its very convenient, especially as I can send directions straight to the car from a simple copy/paste from my laptop.

You are not downloading a random program from the inter webs, they are an apple approved developer that makes a bunch of other different apps. Tinfoil hat much?
 
You are not downloading a random program from the inter webs, they are an apple approved developer that makes a bunch of other different apps. Tinfoil hat much?

In fairness, anyone willing to send Apple $99/year can be an "Apple approved developer". It's not like they're actually vetting anybody; they just like to milk every possible dollar out of their walled-garden. Nor do they much care if app vendors are mining and selling user data, so long as they're not blatantly overt about it.