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Tesla Model S CPO Website - Now Live

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It should be $500 or $1k to have it shipped to brantse's local Service Center. Otherwise a flight to Chicago and Road Trip!

If there are superchargers between you and the store I can't see how anyone would pass up the chance to test the car on a trip home.

A shakedown cruise would be so much more productive and safe than trying to diagnose everything during your normal commute.j

and if you don't find any issues it'd have to be more interesting than just paying someone else to ship it.
 
Nice!!! I'm hoping to get something similar. Any suggestions...private party, CPO?

You are going to have a hard time with most private party sales based on some of the prices I have seen as many are in denial that they have bought a depreciating asset :) The CPO process to me is worth about $5,000 as they go through a thorough reconditioning process and Tesla will stand behind the car. If you go the private party route, look up a similar CPO car and figure out your asking price from there and provide the link to the owner selling the car so he or she's sees what the market price is.

If you are looking for a CPO car, be careful not to pay more than you have to. The best values are the P85s as you can buy 2013 models for the 60s and the 2014 models for the 70s if you look around and wait for the right car. If you buy an S60, you may not get as good of a deal. 85s can be bought for the mid 50s, as others have bought them at this price range but you need to be ready to buy one when one comes up. The key thing is patience so you don't end up paying more than you have to.

Also it seems local Tesla galleries have access to a larger CPO inventory so you might want to do that.

And here's a 2013 85 RWD that you might be able to get for the mid 50s:

http://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/642573429/overview/
 
Picked up my 2012 CPO S 85 (tech, air, sound, obeche, tan) yesterday from the Centinela Service Center. The CPO experience has been great. Good luck to all of you out there who are still on the hunt. It's worth the wait.

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If there are superchargers between you and the store I can't see how anyone would pass up the chance to test the car on a trip home.

A shakedown cruise would be so much more productive and safe than trying to diagnose everything during your normal commute.j

and if you don't find any issues it'd have to be more interesting than just paying someone else to ship it.

2000+ miles from Highland Park, IL to Southern California. A little bit (I mean a lot) more than my comfort zone. But, I want the car so bad, I will probably do it anyway.

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Picked up my 2012 CPO S 85 (tech, air, sound, obeche, tan) yesterday from the Centinela Service Center. The CPO experience has been great. Good luck to all of you out there who are still on the hunt. It's worth the wait.

What a beauty, congrats!!
 
2000+ miles from Highland Park, IL to Southern California. A little bit (I mean a lot) more than my comfort zone. But, I want the car so bad, I will probably do it anyway.

If you mean take delivery in Chicago, you won't get a chance to "test" the car on the way back. You'll have to accept it, there. If I could repeat my CPO experience, I wouldn't have a car shipped, or fly to pick it up. If you miss something, you could get stuck escalating it, like me. I'm re-learning that it is always better to inspect, and then buy a used car.
 
If you mean take delivery in Chicago, you won't get a chance to "test" the car on the way back. You'll have to accept it, there. If I could repeat my CPO experience, I wouldn't have a car shipped, or fly to pick it up. If you miss something, you could get stuck escalating it, like me. I'm re-learning that it is always better to inspect, and then buy a used car.

What issues are you having?
 
If you mean take delivery in Chicago, you won't get a chance to "test" the car on the way back. You'll have to accept it, there. If I could repeat my CPO experience, I wouldn't have a car shipped, or fly to pick it up. If you miss something, you could get stuck escalating it, like me. I'm re-learning that it is always better to inspect, and then buy a used car.
This is my concern since the closest Service Center is 6 hours away.
 
Fixed:
- mirrors were seized and replaced
- pano roof smeared and its track was replaced
- trunk struck made knocking sound when opening/closing and was replaced
- cosmetic rust covering the rotor "covers/head" - not impacting functionality (will not be fixed since not impairing functionality of brakes)
- vehicle delivered with scratch on rear passenger quarter panel and rear bumper paint cracked and was repainted

Outstanding:
- left scroll wheel doesn't always work
- driver front interior door handle doesn't always work
- drive unit whine up to 20 kW of power and sometimes more
- clunking when transitioning between driving and regen
- rear suspension bottoms out (suspension, not the car - car never hits ground) when going over speed bumps at 12 MPH on Very High air suspension. 11 it just rumbles over them, but at 12, it kicks me out of my seat because the car basically slams down on the suspension.
- headliner was being cleaned at pickup and thus, was wet. Now that its dry, there are smears and stains everywhere
- first detailing of the vehicle unveiled stick residue on front fender. Cleanup ended up removing clear coat of paint. Tesla asking me to have body shop make determination if original paint failure to see if it is something they will repaint. Otherwise, I'm out-of-pocket a repaint.

Part of this I guess is nitpicking, but the volume of it has really bothered me. Meanwhile, due to unexpected expenses with the purchase, I am budgetting to get electrical work on the house done, so still charging on 120v. That was going to happen this month, but if I have to pay for the repaint, it will be another month or two before I can budget for the electrical. Additionally, another 60 days of downtime of the vehicle to let it cure before I'm allowed to wash or get it wrapped.

Pics of the body work, which ironically are what bother me the most for a car that is "reconditioned to like-new status".
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So I got my car back today. The repaint was out of my pocket. Tesla continues to feel it was something the detailer did and if it was indeed something the previous owner had repainted improperly, they would not cover that. The detailer is adamant that this must have been a poor paint repair prior to my ownership as he has done two more Teslas without issue and he has never seen this happen on any car he has worked on. So I've got to eat this one.

The car also got some work done by the service center while they had it. The following was fixed:
- left scroll wheel doesn't always work = both scroll wheels replaced (come as a set)
- driver front interior door handle doesn't always work = latch/mount holding cable in place was broken (though cable still attached to handle), cable mount replaced
- drive unit whine up to 20 kW of power and sometimes more = covered by next repair
- clunking when transitioning between driving and regen = drive unit replaced to address this and inverter whine
- rear suspension bottoms out (suspension, not the car - car never hits ground) when going over speed bumps at 12 MPH on Very High air suspension. 11 it just rumbles over them, but at 12, it kicks me out of my seat because the car basically slams down on the suspension. = fixed via user education. Basically, I was told that when the car is on Very High, its like Frankenstein wobbling back and forth because there is little compression room in the suspension. I have since reprogrammed the speed bumps to High from Very High and the problem has not recurred
- proactive contactor replacement = battery failed inspection when doing this service b/c of a clogged exhaust vent and corrosion in one section of the casing. Loaner battery (a B pack) installed while my battery (also a B pack) makes its way to Freemont for repair
- rear brake rotors replaced. No mention as to why. Perhaps the rust in the image above interfered with the drive unit swap? They did also have to retrofit a motor mount because the newer drive units mount slightly differently than the old ones, so perhaps that necessitated taking the rotors out and the rust interfered? In any event, the front rotors were NOT replaced (still look like the image above), but both rears were.
- the weekend before I took the car in it rained for the first time that I had the car in my possession (this is the 3rd service visit after all since buying it). Turns out the frunk leaks by the latch. = replaced seal that goes around the frunk
 
So I got my car back today. The repaint was out of my pocket. Tesla continues to feel it was something the detailer did and if it was indeed something the previous owner had repainted improperly, they would not cover that. The detailer is adamant that this must have been a poor paint repair prior to my ownership as he has done two more Teslas without issue and he has never seen this happen on any car he has worked on. So I've got to eat this one.

The car also got some work done by the service center while they had it. The following was fixed:
- left scroll wheel doesn't always work = both scroll wheels replaced (come as a set)
- driver front interior door handle doesn't always work = latch/mount holding cable in place was broken (though cable still attached to handle), cable mount replaced
- drive unit whine up to 20 kW of power and sometimes more = covered by next repair
- clunking when transitioning between driving and regen = drive unit replaced to address this and inverter whine
- rear suspension bottoms out (suspension, not the car - car never hits ground) when going over speed bumps at 12 MPH on Very High air suspension. 11 it just rumbles over them, but at 12, it kicks me out of my seat because the car basically slams down on the suspension. = fixed via user education. Basically, I was told that when the car is on Very High, its like Frankenstein wobbling back and forth because there is little compression room in the suspension. I have since reprogrammed the speed bumps to High from Very High and the problem has not recurred
- proactive contactor replacement = battery failed inspection when doing this service b/c of a clogged exhaust vent and corrosion in one section of the casing. Loaner battery (a B pack) installed while my battery (also a B pack) makes its way to Freemont for repair
- rear brake rotors replaced. No mention as to why. Perhaps the rust in the image above interfered with the drive unit swap? They did also have to retrofit a motor mount because the newer drive units mount slightly differently than the old ones, so perhaps that necessitated taking the rotors out and the rust interfered? In any event, the front rotors were NOT replaced (still look like the image above), but both rears were.
- the weekend before I took the car in it rained for the first time that I had the car in my possession (this is the 3rd service visit after all since buying it). Turns out the frunk leaks by the latch. = replaced seal that goes around the frunk

I bet you are glad the car is covered under warranty :)
 
- rear brake rotors replaced. No mention as to why. Perhaps the rust in the image above interfered with the drive unit swap? They did also have to retrofit a motor mount because the newer drive units mount slightly differently than the old ones, so perhaps that necessitated taking the rotors out and the rust interfered? In any event, the front rotors were NOT replaced (still look like the image above), but both rears were.

replaced the rotors but you still have the corroded looking calipers?

With the insanely open stock rims I'd either want 19" cyclone or aero rims to hide those calipers or I'd want the calipers repainted or otherwise cleaned up (plastidip coated, scrubbed, sandblasted, something to make them look like new)
 
The car also got some work done by the service center while they had it. The following was fixed:

That is so much work, maybe when it's done they should reset the odometer to zero. Seriously, I am so sorry this has happened to you. Tesla should have done what Mercedes and others that have a CPO program do. If Mercedes (and others) take a car in on trade, and inspection reveals too many issues, they take it to auction rather than harm the reputation of their CPO program. Not doing the full inspection and prep BEFORE posting the vehicle online and selling it really puts Tesla Motors at risk. Tesla Motors should seriously reconsider the way this program is managed -> prep and inspect car first - maybe use it in the "service loaner" fleet for a little while and get feedback from owners about the car - then put it up on the website if everything is OK or can be made OK.
 
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That is so much work, maybe when it's done they should reset the odometer to zero. Seriously, I am so sorry this has happened to you. Tesla should have done what Mercedes and others that have a CPO program do. If Mercedes (and others) take a car in on trade, and inspection reveals too many issues, they take it to auction rather than harm the reputation of their CPO program. Not doing the full inspection and prep BEFORE posting the vehicle online and selling it really puts Tesla Motors at risk. Tesla Motors should seriously reconsider the way this program is managed -> prep and inspect car first - maybe use it in the loaner fleet for a little while and get feedback from owners about the car - then put it up on the website if everything is OK or can be made OK.

This is a good point. It seems Tesla just performed most likely around $7-10K worth of warranty work (possibly more than that even) and I really felt bad for @Cyclone to see the condition of the paint :( I doubt that type of paint damage could have been caused by any reputed car detailer and the damage was likely the result of shoddy work performed before @Cyclone bought the car. I'm just glad he had the warranty as if he had bought that car out of warranty from a private party, he'd be screwed.

+1 about the Mercedes CPO approach. I heard they typically CPO only a fraction of the vehicles they take back and the rest, as you said, goes to auction.

I really feel Tesla should list the service history with CPO vehicles so you can see the car's prior service history and what was performed on the car before you buy a car. With Mercedes' CPO program this information is readily disclosed if you are interested in purchasing a CPO car and I don't understand why that's not the same with Tesla.
 
Just curious... anyone pick up a late 2014 CPO that actually came with Auto Pilot, but it was not listed on the CPO website or the EV CPO Consolidator? These would be somewhat rare, but possible. It would have been built after mid-Sept 2014 and VIN ~P45XXX (give or take a few 1000) or above. I received an inventory quote 3 months ago for a P85 that had AP hardware (built Nov 2014), but it was not listed on the build sheet (only showed Tech Package at $3750 -- original pricing). The VIN was P45334. I test drove it and they had already updated the software to have AP capabilities. Given this, there are several cars on the CPO site that are VIN P50XXX range and above that are listed with Tech Package. Wonder how many actually have AP hardware???
 
So, after finally finding and reserving a CPO, first up on the list to do (besides constantly checking for updates on my Tesla page) was to sell my car. It's an 09 Jetta TDI wagon, with about 118k miles. I received a trade in offer from Tesla for about $2500 under fair book value, so figured it made sense to sell it private party. I was just feeling stressed about the time crunch. Fortunately, after just two days now, I'm happy to report that I had 3 people all offer to come pick it up tonight with cash in hand, and that it went home with one of those three. Now, the problem I didn't anticipate....I don't really have a vehicle to use and have to leave for a work trip tomorrow :frown:. I can only hope that I'll return to a call that my CPO is ready and waiting when I get back.