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2022 LR Battery Replacement

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Well that took forever - should also mention its 102F here in Texas - made it to 354 at 100% at the Supercharger. Car said charging complete but never disconnected from Supercharger (usually hear the clunk). Watched the kW rate dwindle down to nothing while $ was charging about .01 cents every so often. App said “calculating”. Supercharger finally cut off at 354 total miles.
 
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Well that took forever - should also mention its 102F here in Texas - made it to 354 at 100% at the Supercharger. Car said charging complete but never disconnected from Supercharger (usually hear the clunk). Watched the kW rate dwindle down to nothing while $ was charging about .01 cents every so often. App said “calculating”. Supercharger finally cut off at 354 total miles.
Which Supercharger?
 
Well that took forever - should also mention its 102F here in Texas - made it to 354 at 100% at the Supercharger. Car said charging complete but never disconnected from Supercharger (usually hear the clunk). Watched the kW rate dwindle down to nothing while $ was charging about .01 cents every so often. App said “calculating”. Supercharger finally cut off at 354 total miles.
It’s hard to tell definitively from this which pack you have, but it is pretty unlikely to be a 77.8kWh pack unless it is a brand new one.

Your prior pack had 318-320 at 90%. This was a ~78.1kWh pack. (Started above 79kWh most likely).

354 at 100% for your new pack is 78.1kWh. This is what BRAND NEW old “77.8kWh” packs started at, they never went significantly higher.

So if it is a pack that has been sitting around/remanufactured, then it likely is the new version pack (“82.1kWh”). If it’s a brand new pack, then it has the old version cells. I don’t think they are making brand new 2170 (old version cell) packs anymore but I really have no idea.

But have to either take pictures or get SMT to be sure.
 
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It’s hard to tell definitively from this which pack you have, but it is pretty unlikely to be a 77.8kWh pack unless it is a brand new one.

Your prior pack had 318-320 at 90%. This was a ~78.1kWh pack. (Started above 79kWh most likely).

354 at 100% for your new pack is 78.1kWh. This is what BRAND NEW old “77.8kWh” packs started at, they never went significantly higher.

So if it is a pack that has been sitting around/remanufactured, then it likely is the new version pack (“82.1kWh”). If it’s a brand new pack, then it has the old version cells. I don’t think they are making brand new 2170 (old version cell) packs anymore but I really have no idea.

But have to either take pictures or get SMT to be sure.
Went out to look for the battery label this morning with the instructions you linked and this was all I was able to find - looks like it might be the part number for the battery enclosure? SMT sounds like the only option but I’m assuming that means adapter cable + module to read the system?
 

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Good data point. Hopefully it is in writing too. To me, this is the logical outcome.
Yeah, hopefully in writing, because the invoice you get from Tesla Service, which is in writing and you have to sign, contains this term that you have to agree to:

Tesla-branded parts purchased directly from Tesla over-the-counter, online or purchased and installed by Tesla Service are covered under the Tesla Parts, Body, and Paint Repair Limited Warranty for a period of 12 months subject to the applicable terms, conditions and exclusions and available at Customer and Product Support | Tesla Support

Which reinforces that a part you buy and have Tesla install isn't covered under the factory warranty.
 
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Yeah, hopefully in writing, because the invoice you get from Tesla Service, which is in writing and you have to sign, contains this term that you have to agree to:



Which reinforces that a part you buy and have Tesla install isn't covered under the factory warranty.
Right. Just sounds like it doesn’t apply, thankfully! Obviously would be a bit odd if it did. Wouldn’t make any sense. There are contracts, and then there is what makes sense.
 
Right. Just sounds like it doesn’t apply, thankfully! Obviously would be a bit odd if it did. Wouldn’t make any sense. There are contracts, and then there is what makes sense.
A part replaced under warranty will be covered by the remaining life of the warranty. That includes the HVB. You are not purchasing the part when it's a warranty replacement.

However since this was paid by insurance, not a warranty repair, it seems to me that purchased parts clause might apply. Personally I think that's unreasonable when the repair is performed by Tesla or at a Tesla authorized body shop using official Tesla parts. Tesla should, from any reasonable moral perspective, cover such parts under any remaining life of Tesla issued warranty, but that clause above doesn't make any such exception.

So I agree strongly with the advice to push for getting the warranty coverage in writing. That way you'll know for sure what it is, and you'll have greater possibility of recourse if Tesla later tries to change their interpretation for the worse.
 
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I would first check my insurance policy to see if it specifically excludes replacing the factory warranty...then I would approach the insurance company, explaining that you have not been made whole without some form of transferable eight year warranty (that understands the 70% rule)..if they say no, talk to an independent loss adjuster to see if there is a chance of a settlement. Without a transferable battery warranty your car’s value drops considerably...in fact it maybe unsellable until after its eight years old
 
Went out to look for the battery label this morning with the instructions you linked and this was all I was able to find - looks like it might be the part number for the battery enclosure? SMT sounds like the only option but I’m assuming that means adapter cable + module to read the system?
Doesn't match any of the part numbers in the catalog (reman or new), in any case. Nor did it match any part number published here. So in some ways that's good I guess.
 
I would first check my insurance policy to see if it specifically excludes replacing the factory warranty...then I would approach the insurance company, explaining that you have not been made whole without some form of transferable eight year warranty (that understands the 70% rule)..if they say no, talk to an independent loss adjuster to see if there is a chance of a settlement. Without a transferable battery warranty your car’s value drops considerably...in fact it maybe unsellable until after its eight years old
I have Tesla Insurance - I would assume they wouldn’t allow this to happen. I spoke with 3 different SAs and they all said the battery would continue on the original warranty. I’ll try to get this in writing but not sure how they would even write that in a legal sense and send it to me. As far as unsellable, I’m not aware of anyway anyone would even know the battery was replaced since it was a Tesla Service repair with a Tesla part. The last time I sold my 2019 Tesla they didn’t even really look at the car when I brought it in. I can’t find a sticker on the new battery pack, looks like they might have stopped labeling them altogether.
 
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I have Tesla Insurance - I would assume they wouldn’t allow this to happen. I spoke with 3 different SAs and they all said the battery would continue on the original warranty. As far as unsellable, I’m not aware of any way anyone would even know the battery was replaced since it was a Tesla repair with a Tesla part. I can’t even find a sticker on the battery pack, looks like they stop labeling them altogether.
The picture you took is the typical label location.

I’m assuming that means adapter cable + module to read the system
Yes, I don't use it, but it would definitely tell you what you want to know.

If I had to bet based on what you've shown us, I'd be quite confident that your battery has the new 2170L cells, it's just a few months old, as you'd expect. And you might find that the capacity actually goes up slightly in the next couple months (unlikely, but possible).

Anyway, you can track all this via the energy screen method documented here (at high SOC % only). Or use an app or whatever (I don't do that since the apps aren't compatible with my car - they keep waking it up no matter what I do).
 
The picture you took is the typical label location.


Yes, I don't use it, but it would definitely tell you what you want to know.

If I had to bet based on what you've shown us, I'd be quite confident that your battery has the new 2170L cells, it's just a few months old, as you'd expect. And you might find that the capacity actually goes up slightly (unlikely, but possible).

Anyway, you can track all this via the energy screen method documented here (at high SOC % only). Or use an app or whatever (I don't do that since the apps aren't compatible with my car - they keep waking it up no matter what I do).
I’ll check out the energy screen method you sent me for sure. I’m getting pretty similar charge to what I was getting before - I was getting anywhere from 317-320 at 90% and I got 320 yesterday at supercharger while charging and 317 after going below 300 and charging at home.
 
The picture you took is the typical label location.


Yes, I don't use it, but it would definitely tell you what you want to know.

If I had to bet based on what you've shown us, I'd be quite confident that your battery has the new 2170L cells, it's just a few months old, as you'd expect. And you might find that the capacity actually goes up slightly in the next couple months (unlikely, but possible).

Anyway, you can track all this via the energy screen method documented here (at high SOC % only). Or use an app or whatever (I don't do that since the apps aren't compatible with my car - they keep waking it up no matter what I do).
I will say that I was very skeptical of the battery replacement work - all the videos I saw on YouTube of people taking the battery off the car showed stripping out the interior (front seats, center console, carpet) to get to some bolts inside but either they did a great job of putting it all back together or there’s a way they can just drop it from the bottom.
 
I will say that I was very skeptical of the battery replacement work - all the videos I saw on YouTube of people taking the battery off the car showed stripping out the interior (front seats, center console, carpet) to get to some bolts inside but either they did a great job of putting it all back together or there’s a way they can just drop it from the bottom.

It's not that difficult to take apart a car interior and put it back together again if you've done it a few times, which I'm sure they have. Luck of the draw on who you get; some people are very good at what they do.
 
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It's not that difficult to take apart a car interior and put it back together again if you've done it a few times, which I'm sure they have. Luck of the draw on who you get; some people are very good at what they do.
It also helps that they have replacement parts at hand if they scratch or break something or when they inevitably lose some random fastener.