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Fantastic work!! I am also very interested in how this can be accomplished.

Quick question: what's sticking out behind the yoke, a little higher than middle part above the column? Will it remain there once you're done with the project?
There is some soft touch material that connects to the hard plastic shroud just resting up there. I have model 3 shrouds on order and it does appear that they will connect up identically to the part on the plaid, but with room for the stalks to stick out. I am optimistic that it will look like it came from the factory this way, without me even needing to 3d print a single thing. <fingers crossed>
 
May I ask, do you also have a Model 3? When I tried to order the trailer brake wire connection piece, my service center was unable to process the order as it is a part for the X & Y, but not my current S (even though it says "no VIN" on the part #). I had to borrow a friend's VIN to complete the purchase.
In simpler terms, how to you order these parts?
 
May I ask, do you also have a Model 3? When I tried to order the trailer brake wire connection piece, my service center was unable to process the order as it is a part for the X & Y, but not my current S (even though it says "no VIN" on the part #). I had to borrow a friend's VIN to complete the purchase.
In simpler terms, how to you order these parts?
Exactly the same issue here. I’ve had to use my moms Model 3 VIN to get parts for this. I actually asked why recently and they straight up said “we don’t support 3rd party body shops, but will sell most parts to an actual owner”, which is very frustrating.

That said, there are so many model 3 and y vehicles in the world now, and eBay has a decent number of these available already. I just bought an entire clockspring with both stalks for $68 so I can make one more of these for a friend.
 
Do you think it would be possible to have the entire wheel assembly from a Model 3/Y (including stalks and round wheel) replace the yoke successfully?
Yes. I already put a Model 3 wheel on my Plaid and it bolted up fine, but the controls don't work. It will require something to translate the LIN signals of the model 3 wheel to the ones VCLeft expects to see from the yoke. Entirely doable, but not plug and play there, either.
 
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Exactly the same issue here. I’ve had to use my moms Model 3 VIN to get parts for this. I actually asked why recently and they straight up said “we don’t support 3rd party body shops, but will sell most parts to an actual owner”, which is very frustrating.

That said, there are so many model 3 and y vehicles in the world now, and eBay has a decent number of these available already. I just bought an entire clockspring with both stalks for $68 so I can make one more of these for a friend.
Another note on this: someone suggested I just find a VIN online and use that. I was not comfortable. I then saw that whenever a part is purchased, Tesla flags that as a service item, and sends a message (email) to the VIN owner. Fortunately, my wife has a 3.
 
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Another note on this: someone suggested I just find a VIN online and use that. I was not comfortable. I then saw that whenever a part is purchased, Tesla flags that as a service item, and sends a message (email) to the VIN owner. Fortunately, my wife has a 3.
I have wondered what would happen if I use the VIN of a car in their loaner fleet. Victimless fib, perhaps? :)
 
Sorry I've veered off topic. I'll start a new one when I have more significant news to share. In the meantime, these are dirt cheap on ebay and if you are considering doing the conversion you may want to grab one before the prices (maybe, once this info is more public) go up.
smmcs.jpeg
 
Sorry I've veered off topic. I'll start a new one when I have more significant news to share. In the meantime, these are dirt cheap on ebay and if you are considering doing the conversion you may want to grab one before the prices (maybe, once this info is more public) go up.View attachment 717794
Can you share a link and/or part number?
Also, did you get the shifter to work?
 
Sorry I've veered off topic. I'll start a new one when I have more significant news to share. In the meantime, these are dirt cheap on ebay and if you are considering doing the conversion you may want to grab one before the prices (maybe, once this info is more public) go up.View attachment 717794

Dang why do you need so many of them?
I just grabbed one in case I end up getting my new S LR and do this mod.

I'm watching this thread to see what else you accomplish! I'd love to have a Model 3 stalk assembly (probably wheel too) on a new S.

Can you share a link and/or part number?
Also, did you get the shifter to work?

Part number is "1097662-00", with a letter afterwords to indicate revision.
 
Can you share a link and/or part number?
Also, did you get the shifter to work?
As @BPeter mentioned, that's the general part number, but a lot of them on ebay seem to have the wrong part number listed and/or not at all, so I'd tend to search for 'model 3 clockspring' or 'model 3 turn signal' or similar. That's how I found five for less than the cost of one new one from Tesla.

I did get the shifter to work, thanks to the fact that the phone dock's backup system for shifting can send appropriate signals, which I just duplicate.

Dang why do you need so many of them?
I just grabbed one in case I end up getting my new S LR and do this mod.

I'm watching this thread to see what else you accomplish! I'd love to have a Model 3 stalk assembly (probably wheel too) on a new S.



Part number is "1097662-00", with a letter afterwords to indicate revision.

I was able to get all five of these for almost nothing and have a few friends who I'm sure will want them, so just got them while cheap. I still have no plans to sell or support this at all. I also now have many tries to mess up, I guess. :)
 
As @BPeter mentioned, that's the general part number, but a lot of them on ebay seem to have the wrong part number listed and/or not at all, so I'd tend to search for 'model 3 clockspring' or 'model 3 turn signal' or similar. That's how I found five for less than the cost of one new one from Tesla.

I did get the shifter to work, thanks to the fact that the phone dock's backup system for shifting can send appropriate signals, which I just duplicate.



I was able to get all five of these for almost nothing and have a few friends who I'm sure will want them, so just got them while cheap. I still have no plans to sell or support this at all. I also now have many tries to mess up, I guess. :)

Nice! Yeah I haven't ever tinkered with CAN but it sounds like a pretty fun project, and if you're willing to share your git repo later that would be awesome.

Did you get the Model 3 steering column shroud? Does it fit? Drilling some holes into the Model S one wouldn't be too bad if not.
 
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As @BPeter mentioned, that's the general part number, but a lot of them on ebay seem to have the wrong part number listed and/or not at all, so I'd tend to search for 'model 3 clockspring' or 'model 3 turn signal' or similar. That's how I found five for less than the cost of one new one from Tesla.

I did get the shifter to work, thanks to the fact that the phone dock's backup system for shifting can send appropriate signals, which I just duplicate.



I was able to get all five of these for almost nothing and have a few friends who I'm sure will want them, so just got them while cheap. I still have no plans to sell or support this at all. I also now have many tries to mess up, I guess. :)
Will this one work? Or, is there another one at an even better price?
 
Yes. I already put a Model 3 wheel on my Plaid and it bolted up fine, but the controls don't work. It will require something to translate the LIN signals of the model 3 wheel to the ones VCLeft expects to see from the yoke. Entirely doable, but not plug and play there, either.
I have no technical knowledge of auto mechanics. If I gather the needed parts and collaborate with a local Tesla mechanic should we be able to switch out the yoke and have stalks and model 3 wheel working on a new model s LR?
 
Hi @rhuber I finally received the Maxwell self-crimp cable and currently working on crimping it to the ODBII female connector (which I also got from Maxwell instead of Amazon, which I'm trying to avoid like the plague).

Before I do anything stupid, can you please confirm I'm doing this right? Following the PDF of the self-crimp cable, which has this pinout associated with their ribbon cable:

View attachment 699763

I put together this pinout association between the Tesla connector and the Maxwell ribbon cable in order they listed above:

View attachment 699766

Listed in order of the Maxwell cable ribbon, I added the corresponding ODBII connector pinout:

View attachment 699794

Does this look right to you? Thanks!
Is it possible to add a third graph that is probably more CANServer specific to show Maxwell Cable to CANServer v2 Pins. I would definitely bypass my ODB2 dongle in my hookup
 
Just FYI I finally made a new thread about the refresh S mods: