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Ingenext Boost Modules [aftermarket]

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2023.12.5 showing as available on the car
Does anyone know yet if it's safe
Yes, it is.
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Does anyone know if there's anything made for the Performance Model 3? Thank you in reply


Nope.

The only thing these modules do in terms of adding power/performance is lie to the car about which factory-stock Tesla you own.

It tells a RWD SR it's really a RWD LR for example... or it tells a LR AWD it's really a LR AWD that bought acceleration boost or that it's really a LR P.

Since there's no from-the-factory higher performing 3 than the Performance 3 there's nothing to lie to the car and tell it it is for them.
 
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new M3 owner, these modules are safe to use? Just want to use it for the interior lights really. Unless theres a cheaper option to get those on.
Yes, they’re safe to use. You can check the Ingenext website before upgrading Tesla software updates. It might take a week or two, but Ingenext will verify whether or not it’s safe. And you can always . . . take it out and revert to “stock”. You can look at the history here on TMC and see some owners have been using them for years now.

The caveat, of course, is “they’re safe until they aren’t”. Only you can decide if it’s worth it for you.
 
Anyone try installing a Boost SR in a Model 3 RWD with LFP battery? It says LFP batteries are not supported, but the company has also told me via email several months ago that they were in final testing of a version that supports LFP batteries. Someone on Reddit also messaged me and said they actually received one to test with their LFP car and it works. I'm wondering A) what's taking them so long to release this product (Model 3 SR+ / RWD has had LFP batteries for a couple years now), and B) whether the product isn't actually any different than the current Boost SR, but they just haven't officially advertised the Boost SR as supporting LFP because they haven't tested it with LFP cars (maybe the company doesn't own an LFP Model 3 and don't want to purchase one to test, so were waiting for some guinea pigs like the person who messaged me on Reddit to test for a while).
 
Anyone try installing a Boost SR in a Model 3 RWD with LFP battery? It says LFP batteries are not supported, but the company has also told me via email several months ago that they were in final testing of a version that supports LFP batteries. Someone on Reddit also messaged me and said they actually received one to test with their LFP car and it works. I'm wondering A) what's taking them so long to release this product (Model 3 SR+ / RWD has had LFP batteries for a couple years now), and B) whether the product isn't actually any different than the current Boost SR, but they just haven't officially advertised the Boost SR as supporting LFP because they haven't tested it with LFP cars (maybe the company doesn't own an LFP Model 3 and don't want to purchase one to test, so were waiting for some guinea pigs like the person who messaged me on Reddit to test for a while).
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Just ordered the Boost LFP. Interesting that there is a completely different installation method. The installation seems much easier than other modules they sell. However, it does require jacking up and removing the rear wheels. I had been thinking about buying a jack and stands so I could rotate my own tires anyways.

I'm disappointed by a couple things though:
  1. That we will apparently have to plug in the bypass for every update. That sounds like a major annoyance considering how often Tesla pushes updates. I will probably cut a slit in my trunk liner so the modules just sit in the cubby on the left and I can unplug it and update without having to pull back the liner.
  2. We're missing some features the other modules get. Most of them I don't care about, but I was hoping to enable ambient footwell lighting, and battery pack heating / manual preconditioning would have been useful when charging at non-Tesla CCS stations too.
 
Oof. How that an easier installation though? You're disappointed about having to plug in the bypass for each update, which would necessitate lifting the car every time without damaging things by cutting a hole in your liner (which I probably would never consider doing). I installed the Ghost on mine and that was a cakewalk other than having to have a little dexterity with my hands. I don't have the equipment for taking the wheels off, and that kind of thing would take significantly more time than Ghost. Also every update works fine and I've never had to mess with it since initial installation. Long term, much less short term this is not an 'easy installation'.
 
Oof. How that an easier installation though? You're disappointed about having to plug in the bypass for each update, which would necessitate lifting the car every time without damaging things by cutting a hole in your liner (which I probably would never consider doing). I installed the Ghost on mine and that was a cakewalk other than having to have a little dexterity with my hands. I don't have the equipment for taking the wheels off, and that kind of thing would take significantly more time than Ghost. Also every update works fine and I've never had to mess with it since initial installation. Long term, much less short term this is not an 'easy installation'.

You must have an older car with an Intel Atom MCU if you think installing Ghost was easy.

Have you watched the Ryzen MCU installation video? The Boost LFP is definitely easier than that… the 3 minute vs 11 minute installation video is the first clue. I’ve seen multiple people say it took them 3 hours to install in their Ryzen car, sitting upside down in the passenger seat for much of the time. I would guess I could do the Boost LFP install in 30 minutes, maybe an hour if I really take my time.

Also, you don’t have to lift the car to unplug the module for updates (the harness can stay plugged in for updates, and just the module at the end needs to be unplugged). To unplug the module for an update, you would just need to pull back the liner in the corner of the trunk, assuming you didn’t cut a slit in it and feed the module into the trunk. It’s still not optimal, though, so I really hope they can update the module to where it doesn’t need to be unplugged for Tesla updates.
 
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Just installed the Boost LFP on my 2023 RWD. A few notes about installation:
  • It wasn't very hard, but using a floor jack and jack stands for the first time so I could remove the rear wheels was a little nerve-racking.
  • Unplugging the harnesses took me a while, until I realized it wasn't about strength, but technique. Their instructions weren't super clear, but here's what you need to do:
    • Screenshot 2023-05-12 at 5.12.51 PM.png
  • I would have some extra zip ties handy. The harness is longer than it needs to be, and they only provide one zip tie in the box, but I used a few more so the harness wasn't just dangling loosely.
  • They say to "Unscrew your rear bumper on the driver side with a Torx T25 socket," but my car didn't have a screw where theirs did... just an empty hole. I'm not sure if my car is just missing that screw, or if Tesla uses a different method to hold that part of the bumper on now, but I was scared to just start tugging on the bumper, so I skipped pulling back the bumper. It's still possible to get the connectors through the vent without pulling back the bumper, but it was a bit difficult and I had to work by feel alone.
  • No way I'm pulling out the trunk trim and pulling back the trunk liner to get to the module every time I want to install a Tesla update, so I cut a small slit in my trunk liner and fed the module into the little cubby on the left. Super easy to access now and I don't have to take anything apart to install Tesla updates. Here's a couple photos of how I did it. When you go to sell the car, if you pull the wire back out, and tuck the liner flap back down, you can't even tell it was ever cut, so I'm not worried about that.
    • IMG_1532.jpeg
    • IMG_1531.jpeg
  • It works! It's not going to blow your socks off like an LR or P might (I don't know, I've never driven them), but it's noticeably faster. I got a 4.96 second 0-60 run according to Ingenext, but there might have been a very slight down hill, so I'll have to wait until my Dragy comes to confirm the acceleration and whether I'm on level ground.
 
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Im interesting in buying the bonus module for my 2021 Intel LR AWD Model 3. Could someone explain to me how tesla software updates work with this installed. Why wouldn’t I just always have the “allow updates” toggle turned on?
Because it’s possible - hasn’t happened to me, but that doesn’t mean it can’t - but it’s possible a Tesla update could be incompatible with the Ingenext module rendering your car (temporarily we’d hope) undrivable or some necessary function inoperable. That’s why Ingenext has a dedicated page where they list the updates they’ve tested to ensure nothing “breaks” as a result of update/module incompatibility.
 
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Just installed Ghost in my 2023 Ryzen MYLR. Took a bit over 2 hrs from start to finish.

I wasted about 20 min out of those time trying to disconnect the glovebox USB from the MCU (gave up and just have the glovebox hanging) and reinstalled the glovebox and airbag twice because I misaligned them the first time.

Now I have a 7 seater Performance like I always wished for :)
 
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Just installed Ghost in my 2023 Ryzen MYLR. Took a bit over 2 hrs from start to finish.

I wasted about 20 min out of those time trying to disconnect the glovebox USB from the MCU (gave up and just have the glovebox hanging) and reinstalled the glovebox and airbag twice because I misaligned them the first time.

Now I have a 7 seater Performance like I always wished for :)
I also installed mine on my ‘23 ryzen MYLR. Did you have a big block of foam right in front of the plugs stuck to the dash frame? I had to do the glove box twice because I forgot something underneath the first time. Also instead of the e10 torx bolts like the instructions mentioned I had t30 Torx.
 
I also installed mine on my ‘23 ryzen MYLR. Did you have a big block of foam right in front of the plugs stuck to the dash frame? I had to do the glove box twice because I forgot something underneath the first time. Also instead of the e10 torx bolts like the instructions mentioned I had t30 Torx.
I didn’t notice any foam block. That’s weird about the t30, I had to use the e10 socket for mine.