Not really, from the photos of the CID that I have seen, the flash appears soldered on to the logic board. If that is what failed, even if you replaced it, you would likely be SOL, as you wouldn't have the raw firmware/bootloader on them to actually boot your system (unless you took the replacement chips from known good board and installed them on the same pads they came from).
Hard to say what actually failed on yours without doing some diagnostics though. Could be as "simple" as some blown caps, mosfets, inductors, fuses, etc. those are common "dumb" components that you could find equivalent parts for and swap out to get up and running again (in theory anyways).
Glad you're getting a yours back; I'd love to poke around with one/see if I couldn't get it working again and learn some of the inner workings at the same time (without having to take my car apart!)
If you take yours apart, I'd start by looking for anything that looks obviously failed. Start with the 12V input stage/power supply circuit and go from there, looking for anything that looks corroded, charred/burnt, shorted, bulging, leaking, etc.
If you see a fuse (likely soldered to the board if there is one), check continuity across it to see if it is blown.
TBH, I almost doubt it was your flash that failed. Tesla engineers are smart; they know the max write cycles of their parts and how to do proper wear leveling if needed. I very much doubt they would be stupid enough to exceed them on a car with less than 500k miles. Much more likely the power supply failed (the fact that you have gone through 2 CIDs does point at perhaps a larger systemic issue with your vehicle that could causing the early failure... would be very interesting to know the root cause of failure in both cases, though I suspect we never will).