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You don't have to do it ahead of time. You can do it at the last moment. Keep in mind that CarMax's quotes are only valid for a very short time, like a week or so. So it makes sense to get a quote from them a week before the delivery date to be safe.
VIN: 5YJ3E1EA4JF152730
Does this mean that it is the 152730th care manufactured and there are still 47270 cars that can take advantage of the Federal Credit?
Thanks for the clarification.No. VIN's are assigned randomly. Cars eligible for the rebate have nothing to do with VIN numbers. All vehicles delivered before 11:59 PM on 12/31/18 are eligible.
No. VIN's are assigned randomly. Cars eligible for the rebate have nothing to do with VIN numbers. All vehicles delivered before 11:59 PM on 12/31/18 are eligible.
How much was your Prius? I think when cars get over a certain amount like ~10k, it gets hard to do private party sale due to the fear of scams. I'm trying to unload a car which carmax offered 26k and there are no bites on the various sites including CL.
Correct. In any case, the 200,000 quota for a manufacturer for the $7,500 rebate is for ALL models (so all US Ss, Xs and 3s sold till June 2018 contributed to Tesla hitting the threshold).
Question/advice, Have a delivery date of December 13th when should I apply for third party financing. Rate lock is for thirty days, but don't want rates to go up on me either...
Thanks. I hope to get from Campbell.Immediately and shop credit union rates.
Friendly reminder to all since Q3, VINs are programmed to appear exactly 1 week before scheduled delivery. Presumably they started doing this to cut down on calls when VINs were switched previously
It was $9500, that said I sold a BMW 335 a year and a half ago for ~29k private party. I can understand how people get concerned about doing large transactions themselves but it's really not that risky or difficult if you go by a few guidelines.
As for where I list, i usually list on CL and autotrader.. I've noticed cheaper cars sell well/easily on CL whereas my prius and 335 sold on autotrader. That said, I bought a "used" BMW M2 on CL (private party) so buyers can be everywhere and anywhere.
- Scammers almost always want to do the transaction remotely. Don't even reply to anyone talking about shipping the car. Entertain face to face offers only, no exceptions.
- Accept only bank cashiers checks, or cash (as much cash as your comfortable with, I personally wouldn't do cash for cars over 10k)
- Perform the transaction outside YOUR bank during business hours. If their paying with cashier check. Have your bank verify the authenticity of the check prior to signing off the title.
I understand that for some people the difference between a trade In offer and a private party sale might be insignificant, but I think everyone should check, getting several thousand dollars more for your car could be difference between LR/MR or EAP/No-EAP etc.
Same here.I have access to the app (videos and loot box) and i don't currently own a Tesla, only have a model 3 configured with no VIN or delivery date.
That is interesting because I originally placed my order on Oct. 19th and then upgraded my wheels on Oct 27th. After I did that my order date changed to the 27th. But I still have access to the "Edit Design" option today. Not sure how to take that.Not true, I logged into the iOS app and I only just ordered my car last Friday, 10/26. Granted I can only watch tutorial videos and access my loot box... I did however modify my order on 10/29 to change from 19” to 18” wheels. After I did that, the “edit” option disappeared.
When did you place your order? I am also in FTW and am still waiting to receive a VINSittin on the dock of the bay, watching the time roll away....
Hi. I placed it that day they opened the mid-range, maybe an hour or so after it hit the web. I was a pre-reveal reservation holder. My car was delivered on Friday and love it!When did you place your order? I am also in FTW and am still waiting to receive a VIN