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Model 3 Performance/Ludicrous Waiting Room

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This was last week's hit and bent rim. The tire held air for the 90 minutes of driving I still had to do and to get to the tire place!

Still not the worst. Worst was the 2 tires lost on a pothole on 90.

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Oh my! That's painful. I can't believe 1/2 inch more sidewall has protected my tires on the 19 inch sport wheels so well over the past 3 years. I'm curious if it's also the tire that Tesla specced for the M3P as well. Are the Pirellis inherently more damage prone due to sidewall construction vs the OEM Continentals?
 
Maybe these new ones are better being forged, but not worth the risk. Sell them and go as small as we can.
If I follow through, I'll pickup the car and drive straight to my tire guy to swap them. Right on eBay they go.

It's just not worth it, roads here are so bad. On my M3P, 3 months after getting it, all 4 of my rims were bent. Not playing that game again. I did 19". 18" would fit, but the clearance was so small, I was worried about rocks getting in and grinding up the wheels or caliper covers. That may be unfounded, but was my logic

For reference, I lost 2 rims in the last 30 days. First was cracked and not holding air. 2nd was a hit 4 days after I put my summers on. The 2nd took out the tire and bent the rim 8/10 bad (my tire guy gives me ratings now since it happens so often). This hit was on the highway, it's just not okay the potholes 93 has right now. Luckily the bent rim I have insurance on. But I lost my spare 5th tire due to the crack a month back, so now I am riding the bent rim and it's got some serious shake. I average a lost rim a year + the initial 4.

Obviously I am an extreme here, and I am a car person who takes care of their car. I try very hard to avoid potholes, but sometimes you just can't. Ugh.

According to my tire guy, it's between me and a Volvo for his best customer lol.
Thanks for the detailed response. Yeah, it was one of the main reasons I went with the LR vs P back in 2021 when I ordered my 3. Although 93 and 90 are much better paved in recent years in the Boston area, the secondary roads are still atrocious in the winter and that has still gotten me worried. Combine that and the low ride height where I can't see the road as well vs in my Y and less suspension travel and it's a disaster waiting to happened. I might have to order 19 inch wheels with All Seasons to swap out once Fall rolls around. Winter has been very mild here in the Boston area making snows almost unnecessary. I might simply relegate the 20s for summer use only when I know for sure roads are near perfection.
 
Ordered Stealth Grey/White before the price increase.
Like others, the estimated delivery changed from May/June to June.

I've enjoyed my '22 M3P Red/White car.
What attracted me most to the new model is the rear motor, front seats, and the active damping technology for the suspension.
Then, the price, Fed/State tax credits sealed the deal.
 
Ordered Stealth Grey/White before the price increase.
Like others, the estimated delivery changed from May/June to June.

I've enjoyed my '22 M3P Red/White car.
What attracted me most to the new model is the rear motor, front seats, and the active damping technology for the suspension.
Then, the price, Fed/State tax credits sealed the deal.
The federal incentive definitely tipped the scales on "act now" for me vs. my 2018.
 
Ordered Stealth Grey/White before the price increase.
Like others, the estimated delivery changed from May/June to June.

I've enjoyed my '22 M3P Red/White car.
What attracted me most to the new model is the rear motor, front seats, and the active damping technology for the suspension.
Then, the price, Fed/State tax credits sealed the deal.
Here is Massachusetts, I could have gotten both the $7,500 Federal and State $3,500 rebate combined if I went with the Stealth Grey/Black combo as it is the only combo that qualified for MA EV credit if the MSRP with destination stays under $55K. But the Ultra Red was too gorgeous and I went with the UR/Black to at least qualify for the $7,500 Federal rebate by keeping it under $55K. I have a '21 M3 LR w/ Acceleration Boost now in Multi-Coat Red/White and it makes me turn my head when I walk away from it every day. But good on you for being able to get both rebates!
 
I know everyone says the Performance model is very low volume. Is it though? Orders were so significant that they have raised the price and pushed deliveries out a month.

The Performance model is cheaper than the LR for people who qualify for the tax credit. I am not so certain this will be a low volume car anymore. It won’t sell like the RWD does but I don’t think they are going to sell significantly more Model 3 LR cars this quarter than Model 3 Performance cars.

It was, but they have it currently priced so it wont be again until they either raise the price of this car, or lower the price of the Long Range AWD. One of those choices makes them more money, one makes them less. I know which one I would bet on them doing.
 
Does anyone know the sequence of events regarding an order? For example, is the timeframe potentially in flux until a VIN is assigned? Also, does receiving a VIN mean the car currently has parts assigned but not in production, is currently being built or already built?

Cheers!
1,000,000% in flux! Forums are filled with stories (mine included) of Estimated Delivery Date (EDD) shifting up, back, up again, day-for-day slips, then back multiple months. Once a VIN is assigned, it's generally more locked-in, but nothing is guaranteed. Logistics schedules or transport damage could cause a phone call on delivery day saying "We have to reschedule". So pretty much I'd say:
- Take anything before the VIN assignment with a HUGE grain of salt.
- Anything between VIN assignment and Delivery Schedule with a grain of salt.
- Once delivery scheduled, it's most likely gonna be right, but things could happen.

On another forum, someone referred to it as the "EDD Monkey" who just randomly hits keys to assign dates. It's a pretty accurate description. Ignoring the scheduling aspect, the delivery process is usually pretty fast and smooth. It'll all be worth the wait though, once you get the car, you'll love it! And the pain of the estimated delivery date process will fade into memory.
 
1,000,000% in flux! Forums are filled with stories (mine included) of Estimated Delivery Date (EDD) shifting up, back, up again, day-for-day slips, then back multiple months. Once a VIN is assigned, it's generally more locked-in, but nothing is guaranteed. Logistics schedules or transport damage could cause a phone call on delivery day saying "We have to reschedule". So pretty much I'd say:
- Take anything before the VIN assignment with a HUGE grain of salt.
- Anything between VIN assignment and Delivery Schedule with a grain of salt.
- Once delivery scheduled, it's most likely gonna be right, but things could happen.

On another forum, someone referred to it as the "EDD Monkey" who just randomly hits keys to assign dates. It's a pretty accurate description. Ignoring the scheduling aspect, the delivery process is usually pretty fast and smooth. It'll all be worth the wait though, once you get the car, you'll love it! And the pain of the estimated delivery date process will fade into memory.

Basically, no matter how much someone tries to micro manage / pay attention to delivery, it basically goes like this:

1. Order (complete all order tasks, and Ideally put "cash" as payment type even if you plan on financing as long as you know you will be approved for financing / have no credit issues)

2. Ignore EVERYTHING you see in your account about "estimated dates". They mean absolutely, positively, 100000000000% nothing. Do not expect to get notified if these "estimated" dates change, DO expect them to change. As I mentioned, the BEST thing to do is completely ignore your order after you place it, ignoring all EDDs etc.

3. Do not pay attention to anything about your order until you are assigned a VIN. THEN and ONLY THEN should you look at estimated dates as anything other than a fairy tail. Once you have a vin assigned, if you put "cash" to speed the process along but intend to finance, THEN AND ONLY THEN (AFTER you are assigned a vin) should you go work out your financing.

If you intend to do outside financing, apply for that.

If you intend to finance through Tesla, AFTER you get a vin, contact Tesla and tell them " I know I said I was going to pay cash but I changed my mind, I want to finance through you, can you open up the application for me? Once you work out who you will be financing through if financing, tell tesla and tell them the amounts of your financing / down payment etc.

4. Schedule delivery when they make that available, keeping in mind that they are not going to "hold the car for me for a week while I am out of the country?" or anything like that.

5. Take delivery (on one of the few dates they make available when they open up delivery slots

Thats pretty much how anyone should expect it to go.

I could point out thousands and thousands and thousands of waiting room posts of people "discussing" their estimated dates moving around, and consternation around that, when the best thing to do is simply "order and wait, and not think about your order till you get a vin" anything else is just hanging out / discussion points etc.
 
Basically, no matter how much someone tries to micro manage / pay attention to delivery, it basically goes like this:

1. Order (complete all order tasks, and Ideally put "cash" as payment type even if you plan on financing as long as you know you will be approved for financing / have no credit issues)

2. Ignore EVERYTHING you see in your account about "estimated dates". They mean absolutely, positively, 100000000000% nothing. Do not expect to get notified if these "estimated" dates change, DO expect them to change. As I mentioned, the BEST thing to do is completely ignore your order after you place it, ignoring all EDDs etc.

3. Do not pay attention to anything about your order until you are assigned a VIN. THEN and ONLY THEN should you look at estimated dates as anything other than a fairy tail. Once you have a vin assigned, if you put "cash" to speed the process along but intend to finance, THEN AND ONLY THEN (AFTER you are assigned a vin) should you go work out your financing.

If you intend to do outside financing, apply for that.

If you intend to finance through Tesla, AFTER you get a vin, contact Tesla and tell them " I know I said I was going to pay cash but I changed my mind, I want to finance through you, can you open up the application for me? Once you work out who you will be financing through if financing, tell tesla and tell them the amounts of your financing / down payment etc.

4. Schedule delivery when they make that available, keeping in mind that they are not going to "hold the car for me for a week while I am out of the country?" or anything like that.

5. Take delivery (on one of the few dates they make available when they open up delivery slots

Thats pretty much how anyone should expect it to go.

I could point out thousands and thousands and thousands of waiting room posts of people "discussing" their estimated dates moving around, and consternation around that, when the best thing to do is simply "order and wait, and not think about your order till you get a vin" anything else is just hanging out / discussion points etc.

This is spot on. When I had an order for a 21 Model Y that was 7 months out, this is exactly how it played out. EDD would be pushed out and reeled in months constantly. One day with the EDD still a month out, it just updated with a VIN and prompted to complete payment.
 
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3. Do not pay attention to anything about your order until you are assigned a VIN. THEN and ONLY THEN should you look at estimated dates as anything other than a fairy tail. Once you have a vin assigned, if you put "cash" to speed the process along but intend to finance, THEN AND ONLY THEN (AFTER you are assigned a vin) should you go work out your financing.

If you intend to do outside financing, apply for that.

If you intend to finance through Tesla, AFTER you get a vin, contact Tesla and tell them " I know I said I was going to pay cash but I changed my mind, I want to finance through you, can you open up the application for me? Once you work out who you will be financing through if financing, tell tesla and tell them the amounts of your financing / down payment etc.
Excellent point on financing. Tesla will be more than happy to do a hard pull on your credit every time the application expires, which will certainly lower your score, perhaps giving you a higher rate.