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Model 3 Performance/Ludicrous Waiting Room

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Basically, no matter how much someone tries to micro manage / pay attention to delivery, it basically goes like this:

1. Order (complete all order tasks, and Ideally put "cash" as payment type even if you plan on financing as long as you know you will be approved for financing / have no credit issues)

2. Ignore EVERYTHING you see in your account about "estimated dates". They mean absolutely, positively, 100000000000% nothing. Do not expect to get notified if these "estimated" dates change, DO expect them to change. As I mentioned, the BEST thing to do is completely ignore your order after you place it, ignoring all EDDs etc.

3. Do not pay attention to anything about your order until you are assigned a VIN. THEN and ONLY THEN should you look at estimated dates as anything other than a fairy tail. Once you have a vin assigned, if you put "cash" to speed the process along but intend to finance, THEN AND ONLY THEN (AFTER you are assigned a vin) should you go work out your financing.

If you intend to do outside financing, apply for that.

If you intend to finance through Tesla, AFTER you get a vin, contact Tesla and tell them " I know I said I was going to pay cash but I changed my mind, I want to finance through you, can you open up the application for me? Once you work out who you will be financing through if financing, tell tesla and tell them the amounts of your financing / down payment etc.

4. Schedule delivery when they make that available, keeping in mind that they are not going to "hold the car for me for a week while I am out of the country?" or anything like that.

5. Take delivery (on one of the few dates they make available when they open up delivery slots

Thats pretty much how anyone should expect it to go.

I could point out thousands and thousands and thousands of waiting room posts of people "discussing" their estimated dates moving around, and consternation around that, when the best thing to do is simply "order and wait, and not think about your order till you get a vin" anything else is just hanging out / discussion points etc.
Do you have a similar write-up about the best protocol for optimizing your price?

Something like:
1. when the price for your configuration provides the price/value option you're comfortable with, place your order
2. try not to stress when "new order prices move", but keep an eye on it
3. periodically "play configure" ordering the same config to see if today's price is better than yours
4. contact <recommendation?> if you want to ask for a repricing of your undelivered vehicle
5. repeat steps 2-4 until delivery
6. after delivery, enjoy your car and don't look at pricing of your config unless/until you're looking to sell
 
Do you have a similar write-up about the best protocol for optimizing your price?

Something like:
1. when the price for your configuration provides the price/value option you're comfortable with, place your order
2. try not to stress when "new order prices move", but keep an eye on it
3. periodically "play configure" ordering the same config to see if today's price is better than yours
4. contact <recommendation?> if you want to ask for a repricing of your undelivered vehicle
5. repeat steps 2-4 until delivery
6. after delivery, enjoy your car and don't look at pricing of your config unless/until you're looking to sell
Thanks to all for taking the time to share your experiences and make suggestions! Truth be told, this will be my wife's car but the $7500 rebate was too hard to pass up. I wonder if I will spend that rebate on tires since I will be driving the car a lot as well. My daily driver is a Porsche Cayman S (engine blew up, now a 3.8) which is fast but far slower that the M3P.
 
Do you have a similar write-up about the best protocol for optimizing your price?

Something like:
...
6. after delivery, enjoy your car and don't look at pricing of your config unless/until you're looking to sell
I'd pretty much just Skip to #6. Tesla changes/plays with prices pretty frequently. Order a car at a price you're comfortable with, and then just enjoy it! Exception I'd say is if they do a MASSIVE price cut, like I think a while back they lowered S/X pricing by like $10k overnight or something? At that point, I'd cancel the order, eat the $250 order fee, and re-order. Otherwise, trying to optimize for $500/$1000 price differences, it's like playing the stock market: hard to be right, but easy to second guess.
 
Maybe these new ones are better being forged, but not worth the risk. Sell them and go as small as we can.
If I follow through, I'll pickup the car and drive straight to my tire guy to swap them. Right on eBay they go.

It's just not worth it, roads here are so bad. On my M3P, 3 months after getting it, all 4 of my rims were bent. Not playing that game again. I did 19". 18" would fit, but the clearance was so small, I was worried about rocks getting in and grinding up the wheels or caliper covers. That may be unfounded, but was my logic

For reference, I lost 2 rims in the last 30 days. First was cracked and not holding air. 2nd was a hit 4 days after I put my summers on. The 2nd took out the tire and bent the rim 8/10 bad (my tire guy gives me ratings now since it happens so often). This hit was on the highway, it's just not okay the potholes 93 has right now. Luckily the bent rim I have insurance on. But I lost my spare 5th tire due to the crack a month back, so now I am riding the bent rim and it's got some serious shake. I average a lost rim a year + the initial 4.

Obviously I am an extreme here, and I am a car person who takes care of their car. I try very hard to avoid potholes, but sometimes you just can't. Ugh.

According to my tire guy, it's between me and a Volvo for his best customer lol.

Dude that's enough lol. Just get a truck.

2. Ignore EVERYTHING you see in your account about "estimated dates". They mean absolutely, positively, 100000000000% nothing. Do not expect to get notified if these "estimated" dates change, DO expect them to change. As I mentioned, the BEST thing to do is completely ignore your order after you place it, ignoring all EDDs etc

One of the more accurate statements ever made on tmc. I ordered early and made a change in color but mine also went from May-June to June. ETA is all we have to talk about.
 
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Dude that's enough lol. Just get a truck.



One of the more accurate statements ever made on tmc. I ordered early and made a change in color but mine also went from May-June to June. ETA is all we have to talk about.
Ha! I hate SUVs for me, but so love pickups. For my daily though, I just don't need the excess, wasted efficiency, and I love to drive sporty, smaller cars (I can't believe I'm calling a 4,000 lb car small....oh the world we live in now :)).

But that is also why we just picked up a R1S :).
 
That isnt what the "Stealth" was.

The Stealth was when Tesla made some model 3 Performance cars without some of the standard features for the car. No one upgraded a "Stealth" through Tesla.

The model 3 performance came standard with something called the performance upgrade package (this was a standard feature with that version of the car and was not purchasable after delivery). To move vehicles, Tesla at one point offered Model 3 LR vehicles with the software switch turned on for the performance version. These cars had the acceleration of the performance but not the performance upgrade packages (which included wheels and tires, brakes, spoiler etc).

In effect these were model 3 LR vehicles without the performance upgrade package, with no way to physically tell them from model 3 LR vehicles even though they had the acceleration of model 3 Performance vehicles. Owners started calling them "Stealth" because they looked like Model 3 LR but were faster.


Had nothing to do with bad characteristics, or some people not purchasing upgrades that were available or anything of the sort.


This is basically it, with fewer words but just as accurate as what I just typed. I am fairly sure the suspension was a little lower on those early model 3 Ps (like mine, which is a 2018 I still have). For full disclosure, my 2018 model 3P does have the performance upgrade package, so mine isnt a stealth.

When they offered the stealth back then, it was absolutely the best deal Tesla had at that time. They were only 2k more than Model 3 LR, had the speed of the performance but came with 18 or 19inch wheels (so better range less chance of rim damage than the 20s). At a time when the performance 3 was like 6-10k more than the LR, the Stealths were a great deal.

Yes. Thank you for explaining it. In 2020 or older model years, you can talk to a sales advisor and ask if there was any "Stealth" performance Model 3s in inventory. They had the power of the performance but none of the parts like wheels, brakes, spoiler, etc. But the price increase from the regular LR was only like $2000 or so.