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Wiki Model S Delivery Update

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At the request of my SA, I submitted data and pics of my 2020 Model Y LR for a Trade-in Valuation. It was delivered in May 2020 and has less than 3600 miles on it with no dents, dings or scratches. Original cost $56,290 including MSM, black and white interior, destination and documentation, but excluding taxes, fees, and license.

Just got the Trade-In credit from Tesla - $44,000. About 78% of the original cost after 15 months. Thoughts?

Vistan
Seems about like a Tesla trade-in valuation. Compare it to Caravan, CarMax, AutoTrader, GiveMeTheVIN and a private sale to determine your best course.
 
For those contemplating Dyson, concerned about cust service for repairs, etc. Remember: Sams and Costco both have lifetime return policies. No box necessary. My receipts are electronic when I purchase via my Sams card. They date back years. They give you ZERO hassle in returning anything YEARS later after it stops working.
I tried to order a Dyson space heater / air purifier combo last fall. I also ordered an extra filter. The filter was like $30 - $50 I want to say. They shipped the filter out right away, and then never shipped the actual space heater. I waited about three months and started asking when it was going to ship and they eventually just said they didn't know when they would be able to ship it so I canceled the order. I still have the worthless filter.
 
Ah, I just "invested" in the escort 360...unsure whether Radenso outperforms. Anyone have experience? The Radenso radar detector and laser jammer integrates, which would be a nice system fully integrated. The ALP does also.
I bought this mostly because I wanted an integrated detector and the brand had decent reviews on rdforum.org where people more knowledgeable than me talk about radar detector technology.
 
Checked today and I got the delivery date creep - went from 9/16 -9/30 to 9/2 - 9/16! Of course it’s moved to range that’s really gonna be tough to do if they land on the front end of this time frame. I’ve heard they will allow you to adjust the actual date by 2-3 days, correct?

They seem to be ok with moving or setting a date if you have a good reason. They initially said I couldn't beyond 3 days but told them I'd be out of country so they set my date and appointment time for the week after. I'd suggest calling the main Tesla #. My SA is presumably dead, so I have no other option but to call and the reps generally know what they're talking about.
 
At the request of my SA, I submitted data and pics of my 2020 Model Y LR for a Trade-in Valuation. It was delivered in May 2020 and has less than 3600 miles on it with no dents, dings or scratches. Original cost $56,290 including MSM, black and white interior, destination and documentation, but excluding taxes, fees, and license.

Just got the Trade-In credit from Tesla - $44,000. About 78% of the original cost after 15 months. Thoughts?

Vistan
I, for one, wouldn't take that hit. I'd rather sell as a private party (even w the headaches that'd involve).
Plus, I have a sneaking suspicion that TSLA will turn on the FSD switch (assuming your car doesn't have it) and then make an additional $10K on your trade in!
 
In my lifetime I’ve gotten so many speeding tickets, some from behind (one in the stretch I’m driving tomorrow). I was told by the issuing officer of that particular ticket that speed in excess of 80mph in NC is a mandatory court appearance (unless you have an attorney to appear on your behalf). I’d prefer to not have to deal with that yet again. I’m willing to bet many people on this forum drive faster than 80 on the freeway during their commute. I know myself well enough to know I’m going to speed every day I’m behind the wheel. It started when I got my license and it’s unlikely I’m going to change at 51, so I might as well do what I can to avoid the penalty. As a wise man once said, “I can’t drive fifty fiiiiiiiiiive”.
I typically set cruise control (or in my MS Plaid...AP/FSD? lol) to 78mph on the highways here in South Florida as I do A LOT of highway driving. Although I'm sure I will have some spirited, short bursts now and then, in my experiences here since 1987, laser is used mostly in typical "city" streets while FHP typically uses Ka band for speed checks on the highway. So, if I integrated a laser jammer, I would says that it's mostly for city driving.
 
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I didn't mean to say it does not have a subwoofer. I meant it needs a better one with an independent amplifier.
May be worth checking to see if yours is functioning. My car seems to have plenty of bass. I havethe sub-range up a couple of ticks and the mid-bass down a tick or two. It's true that Tesla leaves a lot of headroom for clipping, meaning it won't clip at full output. You need to turn it way up to get volume out of it. I was once an installer and IASCA judge.... hard to believe a Toyota Highlander could possibly be better, perhaps it just gets louder quicker?
 
Bummed to read about the complaints about the MS sound quality. I have a '21 MYP and think the sound quality is the best
I've ever had in a car. Easily. Especially playing 24 bit files. Are folks saying that the MS is inferior somehow to the 3/Y system?
Not at all. The S sound system is superior to the 3 and Y, I've listened to all 3.
 
Oh I agree the 21's look way better. Plus I couldn't justify putting hubcaps on the most expensive car I have ever owned. But I definitely made a mistake. The summer tires are going to kill me in about 3 months.
Oh yeah, the hub caps are coming off to expose those beautiful crab wheels on my Plaid.....that is once I actually have my car 😭
 
Staties can be trolling from behind...
Of course but it depends on the state. Florida is different than say, MA or NY. Don't you know, we have sooooo many CRAZIES here in Florida that FHP Deputies seem to have more important things to do than just tailgate people or sit on overpasses with their laser guns. Now, don't me wrong, in years past, I've been stopped and of course, seen hundreds of "speed traps" on the FL highways and city streets, so of course, they do it. But not that regularly, and it seems most of the time, it's on regular city type streets, not on the Florida Turnpike or I95 here in South Florida. I know it's different, however, in other ares of Florida, like central Florida. I always wondered how and where Brooks and his buddies run those "roll races" on the South Florida highways...I think I have an idea where but not entirely sure; either way, it's an area which I don't travel often.
 
I typically set cruise control (or in my MS Plaid...AP/FSD? lol) to 78mph on the highways here in South Florida as I do A LOT of highway driving. Although I'm sure I will have some spirited, short bursts now and then, in my experiences here since 1987, laser is used mostly in typical "city" streets while FHP typically uses Ka band for speed checks on the highway. So, if I integrated a laser jammer, I would says that it's mostly for city driving.
I had to set mine to 79 for about a year cause I’d gotten a few tickets within one year (many freeways here are 70mph zones)—I *hated* being passed by people during that period. Always wanted to jump in the group and speed with them but I’ll be darned if I didn’t get picked off outta the pack. I kid you not I’d be racing on the freeway with my husband and he’d be doing stuff way more offensive but I’d get pulled over (this happened more than once). That said, I’ve earned every ticket I’ve been given and deserve *many* more.
 
I had to set mine to 79 for about a year cause I’d gotten a few tickets in a year (many freeways here are 70mph zones)—I *hated* being passed by people during that period. Always wanted to jump in the group and speed with them but I’ll be darned if I didn’t get picked off outta the pack. I kid you not I’d be racing on the freeway with my husband and he’d be doing stuff way more offensive but I’d get pulled over (this happened more than once). That said, I’ve earned every ticket I’ve been given and deserve *many* more.
I got tagged doing 105 in a 45 once on a sport bike. The officer didn't catch up to me for another 2 miles. I was 27, she was a middle aged woman, and since I watched young girls get away with it all the time I figured "What the hell, I'll play cute and dumb."

I pointed to the RPM gauge and said I thought I was only going 50. I then explained how I've only had the bike a few months, and feel really dumb for looking at the wrong gauge. She laughed, told me to slow down, and let me go.
 
I had the UHFS on my 2015 MS. I Also upgraded it to the LIght Harmonic Amp speakers with a SQ Subwoofer. It was significantly better than the original UHFS system that came with the 2015.
My Plaid sound system is better than my previously upgraded system in every way. Clearer mids/highs, volume, and bass.

I spent hours on the phone with Reus before getting my car, discussing the options to upgrade my Plaid system with them. He pretty much told me that the mids are as good as it gets and no need to upgrade them.
For $4500 they would change out the tweeters, add a center tweeter behind the mirror and add a sub.

Since taking possession of the car, I'm not sure the car needs it.
If anyone in the LA area wants to hear/see the car, hmu
 
I'm now seriously thinking about doing an integrated laser jammer now for my MS Plaid. Just emailed 2 local shops for quotes, but for the std AL Priority system purchased and installed. Let's see what they come back with. I know it's ~ $1,640 just for the AL Priority system according to their website.
Just got one quote...they don't sell the AL-P system as a stand-alone; only do the entire Radenso system BUT he said the following:

1. This guy has been doing this for the past 15 years here in South Florida and agreed with me that at least here in South Florida, it's very RARE for Police to use their laser guys to check speed from the REAR of a car; almost always from the front with oncoming cars, so a rear sensor is likely NOT needed.
2. He told me that I just need: AL-P system with 3 regular sensors in front w/ CPU – hifi wired controller w/ external speaker, Bluetooth, & GPS antenna….this system setup on alpriorityusa.com is $1,539.70 and that I can simply buy it on alpriortyusa.com and bring it to his shop for installation.
3. Labor charges for installation (approx 4-5 hours) would be approx $500. So I'm looking at like $2k or so for everything including installation.
 
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I think you can pick up 12v (actually like 15v on the Refresh) on the passenger side of the center console. There is small bundle of wires that run to the accessory port plug in there. There are few red wires, the fatter one (on the top left of the pic) is a switched accessory wire. Similar to the set up on previous the generation.

View attachment 703736
thanks so much for that. Do you know what that unused blue plug supplies?
 
Just got one quote...they don't sell the AL-P system as a stand-alone; only do the entire Radenso system BUT he said the following:

1. This guy has been doing this for the past 15 years here in South Florida and agreed with me that at least here in South Florida, it's very RARE for Police to use their laser guys to check speed from the REAR of a car; almost always from the front with oncoming cars, so a rear sensor is likely NOT needed.
2. He told me that I just need: AL-P system with 3 regular sensors in front w/ CPU – hifi wired controller w/ external speaker, Bluetooth, & GPS antenna….this system setup on alpriorityusa.com is $1,539.70 and that I can simply buy it on alpriortyusa.com and bring it to hi shop for installation.
3. Labor charges for installation (approx 4-5 hours) would be approx $500. SO I'm looking at like $2k or so for everything including installation.
Great deal!
 
welp now i'm really confused.

RN11394xxxx (VERY early. like the instant ordering was available early, on September 22nd 2020.)
black exterior, white interior, 19" wheels, carbon fibre trim.

initially told "we'll be delivering Q1 2021". Then "July" for a very long time. On August 1st, my delivery date went blank. Then it became February (!!!!)

the "February" bump was very frustrating for me. It will mean i waited a year and a half for my car, and a full year longer than i was initially promised.

yesterday i noticed the estimated delivery date switched from "February" to a specific window in late October / early November. Hooray!!!

But today it is completely blank. :mad:

I understand part shortages but it feels like i am getting repeatedly bumped to the end of the line.

Purgatory - the best word I know to describe the time between "haha YES" and taking delivery.

I'm right there with you, @Pezpunk. I ordered much later than you (Feb 13) but when 6-12 weeks became June, and June became August, and August became February, I just about had a fit.

Once I calmed down, I ordered a new M3P, scheduled to pick it up Monday. Had I known, I would have done that in Feb.

I've done this four times with Tesla... and it's the worst part of the ownership experience.