Wiki Model S Delivery Update

[Avmax]

Tesla delivered my car this morning. It stayed in the garage as I played golf. Made an appointment for PPF and ceramic and drove to North Phoenix. Driving for the first time at 80 mph and trying to figure out the turn signals was a bit unnerving especially when there are 7 lanes. Got if figured out with my wife following in our P85. I did not notice any distortion in the rear window, but it could have been there but not obvious at all. The windows are not getting tinted so will take a closer look when I get it back. The white interior is stunning.

The question about the amount to pay. I mentioned the FSD "discount" and said the ability to pay is not available until 2 days before delivery which includes any adjustments. It shows on the Tesla app when payment can be made. I did use the Plaid service and it took about a minute. Pretty slick.

I want to chrome the wheels but my wife likes how MEAN the car looks with the black 21's on the white. Not sold yet but the PPF people agreed with her. All gaps looked great to me and I am very happy with the car even though it sat in a Fremont lot for a month. I will not get the car until Saturday.

Congratualtion!!!

 

[jebinc]

I insist on all season, however my belief is you can't ruin summer tires in winter, but instead, below about 45 or so degrees the summery soft rubber hardens up and you lose a lot of traction.
the converse (inverse? reverse?) however is true - winter tires have softer rubber, so i believe if you run them above what, 60 degrees, they will wear out very rapidly?

No. My AS Contis have a wear rating of 400. That’s twice the pzero summer stockers that carry a rating of 200.

 

[IamGaryGnu]

@cwanja Yes, my "bastard" Plaid is being used as a "test bed" in attempts to determine root cause for this dreaded, and seemingly wide-spread, "vibration at speed" issue. I offered this, "for science," and to help the community. Also, because it really annoys me, like a unspecific rattle would; and because I really don't enjoy driving it in this state (I drive the MYP instead). So, in return, they agreed to give me a S 75D (same color in and out as my bastard) and opened a case for buy-back review/approval (as a "one off customer accommodation" act). I was also granted permission to place a "cover all bases" order for a replacement, which I did on Friday. Strangely, a VIN was assigned yesterday (>72 hours after order placement) with EDD later this week.... We (service manager and I) unmatched the VIN from my order last night, for two reasons; first, buy-back process has yet to render "nay" or "ya," and second, I want a "fresh" VIN - later then the MF454 assigned and later unmatched (i.e., >NF460) to reduce (but not eliminate) the chances of getting another "vibrator" (No, @Bill Price, that's not a call to order cry ).

Acts performed on my "bastard" that have not resolved the vibration include:

1) New half shafts
2) Rebalance tires and ensure rims are true
3) Adaptive air suspension 4-wheel alignment
4) Check and retorque all suspension components
5) HV pack check

I believe the next "trial and error" act will be front DU replacement. Will learn work/test plan next steps sometime today. Car has been at SC since Monday morning, 11/22. I figure #1 will be determined by week's end, perhaps the buy-back decision as well.

Some might find this frustrating, which it is, but being retired, and a problem-solver/engineer by education, I enjoy managing the potential outcome options, those being;

1) I get my Plaid back fixed and totally gone over from "stem to stern"
2) Buy-back; cash/check payout (Don't buy another Plaid for a while)
3) Buy-back; trade the bastard for a new NF460+ version

Of course, I will keep all paths "alive" for as long as possible, and will not decide which path to "lock in on," until I must. Should buy-back be approved, I will still hold off on a decision until I inspect the product resulting from option #3. Absolute worst case is my car, and Option #3, both result in cars that vibrate. In that case, if buy-back is a "yay," then I will decide either to just keep the better of the two cars, or take the money and run for six months. Even if I take mine back (no SC damage, etc.), it will be well tuned and tight (more so than the new one, even) and will wait, like the rest of the fleet, for a concrete Tesla fix. Might even be as simple as firmware for the HV-DU controller. Who knows!

So there you have it!

I know, tl;dr...

@WilliamG

Hi - out of curiosity, if they buy your car back, and you then had a choice between another Plaid or an MS, which would you choose? assuming neither had the vibration problem. I figure on the one hand, you MIGHT decide the MS has plenty of power, and is a better value. On the other hand, you may have gotten used to the Plaid and then the MS might be "too less quick" for you.
Just wondering.

 

[jebinc]

Hi - out of curiosity, if they buy your car back, and you then had a choice between another Plaid or an MS, which would you choose? assuming neither had the vibration problem. I figure on the one hand, you MIGHT decide the MS has plenty of power, and is a better value. On the other hand, you may have gotten used to the Plaid and then the MS might be "too less quick" for you.
Just wondering.

After driving Plaid, I would stick with that, or a check for $164,000!

 

[IamGaryGnu]

No. My AS Contis have a wear rating of 400. That’s twice the zero summer stockers that carry a rating of 200.

I'm not sure we're disagreeing about the same thing. I have all season continentals for my benz. they are all season.
contrast with summer tires i have for my benz which i benched; i didn't want to do the twice a year tire swap.
contrast that, with winter tires which i have never owned - those bad boys would be too soft for warmer weather.
so we have all season, summer, and winter.
the all seasons should be fine in any weather, not necessarily exceling in either extreme.

 

[IamGaryGnu]

@IamGaryGnu

I don't know why everyone is making fun of my car.
so what if a chocolate peanut butter shake spilled inside and they're letting the carpeting dry in the sunny, dusty lot.
That shows they care!

(slightly more seriously, I'm not seeing NF's coming out for Blues, some MF's, and my EDD window is rapidly approaching. Not sure if/when they're firing up the Blue paint.)

Also, recent posts by Elon said they're going to chill on the EOQ rushes. I get it for the quarters overall, not sure why it doesn't make sense for an EOY rush to make it for the calendar year, or maybe with a couple of more factories coming on, the numbers will be barely relevant to investors anymore?

 

[Draketurner]

I don't know why everyone is making fun of my car.
so what if a chocolate peanut butter shake spilled inside and they're letting the carpeting dry in the sunny, dusty lot.
That shows they care!

(slightly more seriously, I'm not seeing NF's coming out for Blues, some MF's, and my EDD window is rapidly approaching. Not sure if/when they're firing up the Blue paint.)

Also, recent posts by Elon said they're going to chill on the EOQ rushes. I get it for the quarters overall, not sure why it doesn't make sense for an EOY rush to make it for the calendar year, or maybe with a couple of more factories coming on, the numbers will be barely relevant to investors anymore?

I also haven't seen practically any blue VINs recently and my window starts tomorrow...its got me nervous...

 

[Dknj23]

Hi, so I have a MYP and a Plaid S with EDD both in Dec. On the MYP, the EDD is Dec 11-31 whereas the S it's Dec 13-27. On the Tesla app, it gives me the option to "manage" and has a view button however for the S, i do not have "manage" button and only allows me to go to account instead of view, Anyone know why this is? TIA

 

[jebinc]

I'm not sure we're disagreeing about the same thing. I have all season continentals for my benz. they are all season.
contrast with summer tires i have for my benz which i benched; i didn't want to do the twice a year tire swap.
contrast that, with winter tires which i have never owned - those bad boys would be too soft for warmer weather.
so we have all season, summer, and winter.
the all seasons should be fine in any weather, not necessarily exceling in either extreme.

Agreed. Same here. All seasons for all seasons! My Plaid dragy times are nearly identical to the summer tires and are even the same in cold wet Seattle weather. The summers suck in these conditions.

 

[IamGaryGnu]

After driving Plaid, I would stick with that, or a check for $164,000!

My current boat is quick - 449 ponies, 0-60 in 4.7 seconds. I think that is substantially quicker than "most cars" until recently - heck, a Mustang GT when I was in college had 200 ponies (I think they changed the hp rating system since then) but also 0-60 in 7 seconds (I don't think they've changed clocks since then).
Now we have 3.1 for the MS, which to me is uber lightning quick.
I drove my neighbor's Plaid when he had 51 miles on it (day he got it) - floored it 3 times, was AWESOME - I had a grin from ear to ear - which I frankly think I'll get from the MS.
But I can definitely see myself getting spoiled by the Plaid acceleration.
I usually drive like an old man. However, since driving his MYP and Plaid, and knowing I'll be getting a much quicker car "eventually" that has "unlimited gas" (i'm cheap, but more annoyed going to the gas station and the time involved, like i had to this a.m.) I plan to really punch the MS when I get it and enjoy that need for speed....

 

[IamGaryGnu]

Here's a question I never quite fully understood the answer to.
I BELIEVE with electric, gunning the "gas" won't have the same impact to "mileage" as with gas.
I'm happy to be corrected or educated.
I know as we go faster, we'll have more wind resistance. got it.
but in accelerating, i don't know going from 0-60 "gently" or rapidly would have a bigger affect on the overall wattage used.
With an ICE, I imagine the inefficiencies with a jack rabbit start would be high rpm (more gas burned) and then inefficiencies with shifting.
with the electric, whether accelerating for 3 seconds or 5 seconds, wouldn't it need the same amount of energy if rapid versus gentle, other than having more wind resistance sooner? (I'm assuming we're not chirping the tires and not wasting energy with traction control).

with other efficiency questions, it was my belief AC used less power than having open windows when going at speed (not to mention more comfortable, quieter, etc.)
I imagine same with the S, slow windows might be fine, but cruising, unless you want wind in your face, A/C would decrease wind resistance and get you better mileage.
Lastly, I have read to bolster range in cooler weather, try to keep the heat lower, and the seat warmers higher.

does all of this sound about right?
thanks!

 

[cwanja]

@cwanja Yes, my "bastard" Plaid is being used as a "test bed" in attempts to determine root cause for this dreaded, and seemingly wide-spread, "vibration at speed" issue. I offered this, "for science," and to help the community. Also, because it really annoys me, like a unspecific rattle would; and because I really don't enjoy driving it in this state (I drive the MYP instead). So, in return, they agreed to give me a S 75D (same color in and out as my bastard) and opened a case for buy-back review/approval (as a "one off customer accommodation" act). I was also granted permission to place a "cover all bases" order for a replacement, which I did on Friday. Strangely, a VIN was assigned yesterday (>72 hours after order placement) with EDD later this week.... We (service manager and I) unmatched the VIN from my order last night, for two reasons; first, buy-back process has yet to render "nay" or "ya," and second, I want a "fresh" VIN - later then the MF454 assigned and later unmatched (i.e., >NF460) to reduce (but not eliminate) the chances of getting another "vibrator" (No, @Bill Price, that's not a call to order cry ).

Acts performed on my "bastard" that have not resolved the vibration include:

1) New half shafts
2) Rebalance tires and ensure rims are true
3) Adaptive air suspension 4-wheel alignment
4) Check and retorque all suspension components
5) HV pack check

I believe the next "trial and error" act will be front DU replacement. Will learn work/test plan next steps sometime today. Car has been at SC since Monday morning, 11/22. I figure #1 will be determined by week's end, perhaps the buy-back decision as well.

Some might find this frustrating, which it is, but being retired, and a problem-solver/engineer by education, I enjoy managing the potential outcome options, those being;

1) I get my Plaid back fixed and totally gone over from "stem to stern"
2) Buy-back; cash/check payout (Don't buy another Plaid for a while)
3) Buy-back; trade the bastard for a new NF460+ version

Of course, I will keep all paths "alive" for as long as possible, and will not decide which path to "lock in on," until I must. Should buy-back be approved, I will still hold off on a decision until I inspect the product resulting from option #3. Absolute worst case is my car, and Option #3, both result in cars that vibrate. In that case, if buy-back is a "yay," then I will decide either to just keep the better of the two cars, or take the money and run for six months. Even if I take mine back (no SC damage, etc.), it will be well tuned and tight (more so than the new one, even) and will wait, like the rest of the fleet, for a concrete Tesla fix. Might even be as simple as firmware for the HV-DU controller. Who knows!

So there you have it!

I know, tl;dr...

@WilliamG

When there is a clear answer for a resolution, I will address it with the service center. Appreciate your write up.

 

[fsabek]

My current boat is quick - 449 ponies, 0-60 in 4.7 seconds. I think that is substantially quicker than "most cars" until recently - heck, a Mustang GT when I was in college had 200 ponies (I think they changed the hp rating system since then) but also 0-60 in 7 seconds (I don't think they've changed clocks since then).
Now we have 3.1 for the MS, which to me is uber lightning quick.
I drove my neighbor's Plaid when he had 51 miles on it (day he got it) - floored it 3 times, was AWESOME - I had a grin from ear to ear - which I frankly think I'll get from the MS.
But I can definitely see myself getting spoiled by the Plaid acceleration.
I usually drive like an old man. However, since driving his MYP and Plaid, and knowing I'll be getting a much quicker car "eventually" that has "unlimited gas" (i'm cheap, but more annoyed going to the gas station and the time involved, like i had to this a.m.) I plan to really punch the MS when I get it and enjoy that need for speed....

let us hope your EDD holds and hopefully a vin soon. When mine got pushed to jan feb I literally lost my mind!!!!!

 

[jebinc]

When there is a clear answer for a resolution, I will address it with the service center. Appreciate your write up.

@cwanja As of now, there isn’t even a clear root cause!

 

[Tigers]

LOL, Tesla, Tesla, Tesla...

I think my potential ownership of a Tesla vehicle may be officially over. Not directly Model S related (what is on here?), but I get an email last week:

"Hey *sugar* for brains - take delivery of your Model 3 order right now or your order is going to be cancelled"

Now - I put my Model 3 order in mid-October and got my first VIN a few weeks before my Model S. I ordered a Model 3 in case I didn't like the S, I was going to go and get that instead. I have had a Jan 1 2022 hold on it for the last month, as I was waiting on the Model S (which most of you know I declined because it was a huge POS).

I tell Tesla "yes, I still want the car, but I'm traveling almost every week in December, can we keep the hold until Jan 1?"

They tell me "LOL - go **** yourself, take it now or suck a big one"

Let me recap my Tesla experience this year:

- I order a Model S at the end of Jan 2021.
- They tell me March
- I sell my Model 3 in late Feb
- They tell me April
- They tell me July
- They tell me August
- They tell me September
- They tell me October
- I order a Model 3 mid-October after being told late October - mid November
- Mid-November they deliver me a dirty car with misaligned doors and trim that's already bent wrong and popping out of the dash, I decline
- Late November "that car you ordered a month ago, take it or blow it out your ass"

Gotta love companies that have zero ****ing clue on costumer service.

Also, @cwanja - sorry to hear about all that dude! Thats so freaking annoying. WTF is going on here?!

 

[ninefiveone]

Here's a question I never quite fully understood the answer to.
I BELIEVE with electric, gunning the "gas" won't have the same impact to "mileage" as with gas.
I'm happy to be corrected or educated.
I know as we go faster, we'll have more wind resistance. got it.
but in accelerating, i don't know going from 0-60 "gently" or rapidly would have a bigger affect on the overall wattage used.
With an ICE, I imagine the inefficiencies with a jack rabbit start would be high rpm (more gas burned) and then inefficiencies with shifting.
with the electric, whether accelerating for 3 seconds or 5 seconds, wouldn't it need the same amount of energy if rapid versus gentle, other than having more wind resistance sooner? (I'm assuming we're not chirping the tires and not wasting energy with traction control).

with other efficiency questions, it was my belief AC used less power than having open windows when going at speed (not to mention more comfortable, quieter, etc.)
I imagine same with the S, slow windows might be fine, but cruising, unless you want wind in your face, A/C would decrease wind resistance and get you better mileage.
Lastly, I have read to bolster range in cooler weather, try to keep the heat lower, and the seat warmers higher.

does all of this sound about right?
thanks!

Physics is still physics, regardless of what's providing propulsion.

 

[AMPd]

Update no one asked for: EDD moved up to March 11-April 8th from March 22-April 24

 

[lbowroom]

LOL, Tesla, Tesla, Tesla...

I think my potential ownership of a Tesla vehicle may be officially over. Not directly Model S related (what is on here?), but I get an email last week:

"Hey *sugar* for brains - take delivery of your Model 3 order right now or your order is going to be cancelled"

Now - I put my Model 3 order in mid-October and got my first VIN a few weeks before my Model S. I ordered a Model 3 in case I didn't like the S, I was going to go and get that instead. I have had a Jan 1 2022 hold on it for the last month, as I was waiting on the Model S (which most of you know I declined because it was a huge POS).

I tell Tesla "yes, I still want the car, but I'm traveling almost every week in December, can we keep the hold until Jan 1?"

They tell me "LOL - go **** yourself, take it now or suck a big one"

Let me recap my Tesla experience this year:

- I order a Model S at the end of Jan 2021.
- They tell me March
- I sell my Model 3 in late Feb
- They tell me April
- They tell me July
- They tell me August
- They tell me September
- They tell me October
- I order a Model 3 mid-October after being told late October - mid November
- Mid-November they deliver me a dirty car with misaligned doors and trim that's already bent wrong and popping out of the dash, I decline
- Late November "that car you ordered a month ago, take it or blow it out your ass"

Gotta love companies that have zero ****ing clue on costumer service.

Also, @cwanja - sorry to hear about all that dude! Thats so freaking annoying. WTF is going on here?!

Define “customer”

 

[Draketurner]

Here's a question I never quite fully understood the answer to.
I BELIEVE with electric, gunning the "gas" won't have the same impact to "mileage" as with gas.
I'm happy to be corrected or educated.
I know as we go faster, we'll have more wind resistance. got it.
but in accelerating, i don't know going from 0-60 "gently" or rapidly would have a bigger affect on the overall wattage used.
With an ICE, I imagine the inefficiencies with a jack rabbit start would be high rpm (more gas burned) and then inefficiencies with shifting.
with the electric, whether accelerating for 3 seconds or 5 seconds, wouldn't it need the same amount of energy if rapid versus gentle, other than having more wind resistance sooner? (I'm assuming we're not chirping the tires and not wasting energy with traction control).

with other efficiency questions, it was my belief AC used less power than having open windows when going at speed (not to mention more comfortable, quieter, etc.)
I imagine same with the S, slow windows might be fine, but cruising, unless you want wind in your face, A/C would decrease wind resistance and get you better mileage.
Lastly, I have read to bolster range in cooler weather, try to keep the heat lower, and the seat warmers higher.

does all of this sound about right?
thanks!

so simple answer is it is more efficient to go slow over a long period of time. It uses exponentially more energy the faster the motor spins. I cant give you numbers with a Tesla because I dont know them but I can with my pool pump, with is also a permanent magnet motor. At max speed of 3500 rpm it uses 2250 watts vs minimum speed of 500 rpm it uses about 80 watts. So to go 7x faster the motor uses 28x more energy. Same principal applies to the car.

 

[Draketurner]

LOL, Tesla, Tesla, Tesla...

I think my potential ownership of a Tesla vehicle may be officially over. Not directly Model S related (what is on here?), but I get an email last week:

"Hey *sugar* for brains - take delivery of your Model 3 order right now or your order is going to be cancelled"

Now - I put my Model 3 order in mid-October and got my first VIN a few weeks before my Model S. I ordered a Model 3 in case I didn't like the S, I was going to go and get that instead. I have had a Jan 1 2022 hold on it for the last month, as I was waiting on the Model S (which most of you know I declined because it was a huge POS).

I tell Tesla "yes, I still want the car, but I'm traveling almost every week in December, can we keep the hold until Jan 1?"

They tell me "LOL - go **** yourself, take it now or suck a big one"

Let me recap my Tesla experience this year:

- I order a Model S at the end of Jan 2021.
- They tell me March
- I sell my Model 3 in late Feb
- They tell me April
- They tell me July
- They tell me August
- They tell me September
- They tell me October
- I order a Model 3 mid-October after being told late October - mid November
- Mid-November they deliver me a dirty car with misaligned doors and trim that's already bent wrong and popping out of the dash, I decline
- Late November "that car you ordered a month ago, take it or blow it out your ass"

Gotta love companies that have zero ****ing clue on costumer service.

Also, @cwanja - sorry to hear about all that dude! Thats so freaking annoying. WTF is going on here?!

Sorry Tiger . What will you drive if not these wonderful cars from this terrible company?