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Wiki Model S Delivery Update

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I really wish Tesla themselves (not forum speculation) would clarify if this order delay only applies to new orders vs existing. As a first time Tesla buyer, what a cluster....
If I really have to wait 10-11 months from the date of order, I will just cancel it and be out $100. I don't want to be strung along for months with zero communication. I am sure the cars are really nice, but this is really ridiculous. I work in B2B sales and if I pulled this crap professionally I'd be broke.
 

STEP 1​

ELIGIBILITY​


Good news! PenFed membership is open to everyone, including you.




Note: Like all banks/CU's, their rates can change daily. So not 100% certain .99% is still valid, promotional, gone, etc. So YMMV

Thank you. Assuming 800+ credit rating, any reason you wouldn’t get it? And should one ask Tesla to match that, or… I guess I’m not sure how the process should best work. Thanks!
 
If I really have to wait 10-11 months from the date of order, I will just cancel it and be out $100. I don't want to be strung along for months with zero communication. I am sure the cars are really nice, but this is really ridiculous. I work in B2B sales and if I pulled this crap professionally I'd be broke.
It’s hard to argue with this. I’ve no idea what they’re playing at.
 
personal choice. To some, $45k might be a fraction of their annual income. Thus, plaid is worth it.
For others (like me), while I'd love to have the fastest production car in the world, the LR seemed to be a MUCH better value. 3.1 0-60 is no slouch. And it comes with all the other improvements/upgrades that the Plaid gets, but at $45k less ($50k less for those who ordered pre price hike for the LR).

So it comes down essentially to how much one values that additional speed.
You perfectly summed up my thoughts.
Can I swing a Plaid? Sure. Will I feel better about myself for getting one? I dunno.
I'm sure I'd have a grin every time I got in it (so that may be the answer right there) and I'd know unless there was something crazy with the planets, I can beat just any car at a light, merging onto the highway, etc.
Less impressive in the streets of Manhattan. or stop and go traffic. And there's a small range hit over the LR.

But is it worth the price delta to me?

I think I would STILL grin every time I got in my LR, and I know I could beat ALMOST any car at a light. If I see a Plaid badge, I'd just put the car in park and forget about it :)

And I would definitely feel better about myself for saving the cash.

I think I'd feel REALLY BAD if the Lucid or the whatever came out, and could beat the Plaid - to a certain extent in my mind the price difference is the tech, the cutting edge, the speed, but also the "bragging rights" - whether my car could beat your car, or I had the inaugural class of car that broke records.

I also think about tech, and I can envision (right or wrong) that an LR with 4680 cells MIGHT have equal to, or more juice or speed than the Plaid (I know, carbon rotors, a third one, some improved tech in the Plaid) but like most electronics or tech, costs often come down and improve, so the Plaid is the king right now - but what about in 2 years?

I think some folks actually go to drag strips (not me). Want that speed. It's their hobby or passion.

Me? I drive like an old bastard anyway, so 0-60 in 3.1 is at least former supercar status, bragging rights and quick to me, but since I can go 0 to 60 in 4.7 right now in my 449 hp beast, and I probably don't accelerate like that more than once/month if that, the 3.1 is plenty, and $45k for an extra second or so? Not MY cup of tea.
I'd rather get a Y or most of a Y for that.
I see the allure of the Plaid. I even feel it at times (like shift to Plaid, get my car sooner, perhaps) but getting the LR feels more "sensible" to me.
 
Here's the first draft. Have someone with a following who is willing to post on their Twitter. If interested in signing let me know.

Thanks to all the people who offered and sent messages of support.


Sent this off to my TA/SA contact:


Good morning Xxx & Xxxx,

Just checking to get an update on my order. Last time you gave me the delivery dates listed on Tesla.com for new deliveries. That date is now well into 2022!!

In good faith I sold my Tesla to a private party based on a delivery date posted on my Tesla account page more than 5 months ago.

That date disappeared and no date is shown at all now.

Because of the date posted and me selling my car based on that information provided by Tesla, I am now going into 4 months and over $4,000 in rental car fees. This is both unfair and bad business on Tesla’s part.

I realize this situation is not on your part as an individual your fault but I would appreciate some update from whomever has any knowledge at Tesla on my order.

This will be our 5th Tesla since 2015 and have never been treated like this as a costumer even during the the early struggling days of Tesla.

Please please provide something other than “current orders are expected to ship as of February/March 2022”

Thank you and I do appreciate any updates.

Richard
RN 1143376**
 
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I really wish Tesla themselves (not forum speculation) would clarify if this order delay only applies to new orders vs existing. As a first time Tesla buyer, what a cluster....
If I really have to wait 10-11 months from the date of order, I will just cancel it and be out $100. I don't want to be strung along for months with zero communication. I am sure the cars are really nice, but this is really ridiculous. I work in B2B sales and if I pulled this crap professionally I'd be broke.
You’re already out the $100 since it’s non-refundable. You gain nothing by canceling. Why not leave your options open since no matter what happens in the future, your quickest path to getting a Model S refresh is through the reservation you already have.

With all these delays and chip shortages across the industry, it’s not impossible that Model S refreshes could all sell at a huge premium in 4 months. Maybe you change your mind and decide you want the car or you could sell it for a nice profit. Worst case you refuse delivery whenever the Tesla monkey decides it‘s your turn to get your car built.
 
Disagree. My 4 year old car can do the same *sugar* as newer ones except travel as far in one charge and charge as quickly. I have mcu2, hw3. Tesla, unlike cell phone companies, offers upgrades. Even 9 year old SIG S can get mcu2 and LTE (and parking sensors), etc.

So while my car isn't new it's not like a Galaxy S2.
This post doesn't really make sense. You say it does the same thing, then list things it cannot do. The original poster is correct. Don't believe me? Compare your features to this years model.
 
  • Funny
Reactions: EndlessPlaid
And it comes with all the other improvements/upgrades that the Plaid gets, but at $45k less ($50k less for those who ordered pre price hike for the LR).
It would be 40K before the price hikes. You can't raise the price of the Plaid and then compare it to the pre-raised price of the LR. That's a small window.
 
For some of you finding yourselves (like i was facing) in a jam due to selling your Tesla, and now faced with potentially much longer delays.

Instead of renting a car, Consider (like I did) hunting through Craigslist for cars for sale from private sellers. I focused on the under $3k range, as there will be minimal (if any) depreciation loss risk on those over the next few months. Even better if the car needs some minor work that you can handle as a summer DIY project to keep yourself busy, but also pushes down the sale value for the seller. I found a 2005 C class benz with slight hood damage, some hail damage, non working power window (already fixed with a $30 new regulator from ebay and a youtube tutorial) totally worn ball joints and bushings up front that made the test ride clunky/and loose up front. (Fixed with a $85 ebay kit of new control arms which include ball joints/bushings over the weekend). Runs/starts fine, AC is cold, cooling and charging systems totally fine. She actually runs good now, just not the most attractive. But solid temporary transportation.

The dealer quoted the seller a price on those repairs that exceeded value of the car to fix when you factor in their price for parts and their high labor. And carmax was offering something crazy low to buy the car

So I was able to get it for a several hundred less than KBB trade in value. I'll eventually end up selling it for the low end of kbb private party value, which will net me an actual profit of maybe $1k after its all said and done. There are LOTS of deals like that on CL. Just have to scour the ads
 
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Thank you. Assuming 800+ credit rating, any reason you wouldn’t get it? And should one ask Tesla to match that, or… I guess I’m not sure how the process should best work. Thanks!
I dont think Tesla (they partner with banks) can match that. Credit Unions have lower overall costs than banks, thus the ability to often offer lower rates. And Im 100% going to go with PenFed unless (unlikely) rateschange significantly between now and time for me to actually file for the loan. (cant apply too early beforeyou get the car, or else you'll have to re-apply all over and get hit with a second credit pull, which lowers your score. )
 
i'm making every stupid car decision i can apparently, what's another?
deciding whether to buy my 19 year old's lease, and my 16 to be 17 year old "needs" a car - so that's two. and no lease deals, and the 2022's are around the corner.
I bought my existing Benz, which is in the shop almost as much as my home, so I figured the Tesla had less "breakable" parts - like no engine or transmission. Yes, other things can go wrong.
My wife's Lexus is up next summer - so if she's fine with the Y, that could do triple duty - for one of the kids until their car comes in, etc. - and a spare car lets me sell my Benz while the used market is purportedly hot (though apparently not for my car!!!!)
There's also that Teslas seem to hold their value, and especially now if there are waiting periods, it may be possible to get a Y and unload it months later for cost or even a slight profit - that would be a free lease!
Back to my kid's existing car - the buyout isn't huge - $18k. But the real question is do I want to tie up the cash, and then I take the risk of loss of value (my Benz was rear ended which hurt my car fax) - anyway, I can lease 2 of my kids' cars and be done - rates aren't attractive, but I don't tie up much cash, take no risk on a car without a warranty, etc.
Not sure there's a clear answer.
As for the original question of the Y, the main reason we test drove was to see if she'd eliminate or need larger, like the X for more car pooling with our youngest, and since they didn't have a 7 seat Y we'll have to take another trip to the SC. we went last weekend, as I need to decide where the charger goes - central, or more convenient to my lone ev. Which, doesn't exist yet.
You sir, have a more intricate situation than me lol. My wife and I just have a 3 year old…and feeling glad that we have a while to deal with him driving.

I’m actually leaning towards taking her 3 and getting her the MYP. Then get the S whenever the 3 is worn out…whenever that will be. I drive around 25k/year. The S is definitely nicer, just not loving getting strung along while I’m in my current situation.
 
For some of you finding yourselves (like me) in a jam due to selling your Tesla, andnow faced with much longer delays.
Instead of renting a car, Consider (like I did) hunting through Craigslist for cars for sale from private sellers. I focused on the under $3k range, as there will be minimal (if any) depreciation loss on those over the next few months. Even better if the car needs some minor work that you can handle as a summer DIY project to keep yourself busy. I found a 2005 C class benz with slight hood damage, some hail damage, non working power window (already fixed with a $30 new regulator from ebay and a youtube tutorial) totally worn ball joints and bushings up front that made the test ride clunky/and loose up front. (Fixed with a $85 ebay kit of new control arms which include ball joints/bushings over the weekend). Runs/starts fine, AC is cold, cooling and charging systems totally fine. She actually runs good now, just not the most attractive. But solid temporary transportation.

The dealer quoted him a price on those repairs that exceeded value of the car to fix when you factor in their price for parts labor. And carmax was offering something crazy low.

So I was able to get it for a several hundred less than KBB trade in value. I'll eventually end up selling it for the low end of kbb private party value, which will net me an actual profit of maybe $1k after its all said and done. There are LOTS of deals like that on CL. Just have to scour the ads
More power to you, I got a new Corolla for my temporary car and I’m not sure it’s gonna get me through the next year of waiting for a LR. Let alone something like that. Maybe that’s perspective for me to just suck it up lol!