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MYLR Blue exterior black interior waiting room

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If I understand your charging concern: the adapter stayed locked in the car charging side after a charging session. This would be normal behavior if you are not with your key and not using the app, dash screen, or voice command to unlock the port when a non tesla charger is used. Helps save your adapter from growing feet and walking off at public chargers, but I hear ya that it seems annoying. Maybe a suggestion for Tesla when geofenced to home: when charging session finishes (reaches set charging level, not when no power from charger) unlock the charging port.

Thanks for sharing your build quality and enjoy the Y. I am waiting patiently for my VIN assignment.
Thanks for sharing your ideas. I searched around and found some discussion in this forum: Quick or easy ways to remove a J1772 connector (with adapter)?
Wish you get your car soon. You will be excited once it arrives.
 
Checked my new car's build quality. It's generally okay. No obvious red flags. The roof glass may shifts slightly, leaving about 1mm uneven gap between left and right. But I had to see the alignment very carefully to note the difference. All functions that I tried works well. I found that it's easy to leave rear left door ajar if I do not close it with elevated force.

My Autsin build car only comes with rear trunk cover, J1772 adapter, and a license plate holder. No matrix light, no mud flaps. I turned on sentry mode and it drained 16 miles battery overnight. More than I expected.

I already have a J1772 charger at home. So I used the adapter to charge it. I found that I can only unplug the J1772 charger and the adapter still on the car's charging port. (the adapter was locked at the time when I try to unplug the whole assembly.) Then the charger door closed automatically, with the adapter blocks the full closure of the door. Then I had to force the door fully open again to remove the adapter and make the door close completely. This is annoying. Probalby I did not know how to do it correctly. Any suggestions?
The adapter stays locked when the car is still charging to the charge level specified. You can confirm this by the color of the Tesla logo next to the charging port. You need to tell the car to stop charging before you remove the adapter + J1772 charger. Typically, once the car reaches its specified charge level, it’ll automatically stop charging and you should be able to remove the assembly without any manual instructions.

When I remove the assembly, I hold the charger release with one hand and the adapter with my other hand then pull out in one motion.
 
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just got a call from my local Tesla sc stating I need to make payment for car in the app or if I’m planning to bring a cashiers check I need to email proof of payment before tomorrow. Is that normal? Never heard anyone else state that.
If you pay using Plaid, Tesla can verify whether or not you have sufficient funds in your respective bank account. But you do not have to pay until you accept delivery of the vehicle. The SA messaged me the night before my delivery date to confirm that I will be paying upon delivery of the car.

I’m not entirely sure about the cashier’s check but I’m sure the service center wants proof of funds beforehand. My guess is that they’re taking additional steps to verify that you have it on-hand and that it’s the correct amount before they coordinate your delivery. I’d say it’s more uncommon than unusual.
 
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Sadly I just cancelled my order. Odd my EDD was 4/5-5/10, and out of the blue today VIN assigned with new EDD 3/29-31 - that really doesn't make much sense to me. It was a Fremont VIN, I'd rather have Austin with cast front & rear - but I cancelled to wait for HW4 w new sensor package. Didn't want to wait, but there it is, out $250. I know I will probably pay a higher price later, and later is supposedly end of 2023 but I’d rather have the latest hardware now that we all know about it - delivering on MS/X.
 
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Sadly I just cancelled my order. Odd my EDD was 4/5-5/10, and out of the blue today VIN assigned with new EDD 3/29-31 - that really doesn't make much sense to me. It was a Fremont VIN, I'd rather have Austin with cast front & rear - but I cancelled to wait for HW4 w new sensor package. Didn't want to wait, but there it is, out $250. I know I will probably pay a higher price later, and later is supposedly end of 2023 but I’d rather have the latest hardware now that we all know about it - delivering on MS/X.
Makes sense if you are really wanting the HW4.
Just so you are aware, only the MYAWD (4680) has front and rear castings. The MYLR out of Austin doesn't have both front and rear castings. It is the same as Fremont MYLR as far as structure goes.
 
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Makes sense if you are really wanting the HW4.
Just so you are aware, only the MYAWD (4680) has front and rear castings. The MYLR out of Austin doesn't have both front and rear castings. It is the same as Fremont MYLR as far as structure goes.
Thanks, I didn’t realize the casting-structural pack connection. I’m also guessing paint could be better from Austin, newer better paint operation. But HW4 and new better more cameras plus maybe HD radar is my main reason. Hope the Teslascope projections are right.