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Just curious: after receiving the update, did you do a reboot? I've seen others talking about not noticing a difference until after rebooting.

(I haven't bought this upgrade yet, so I can't add any data points)

I purchased the upgrade on Friday having Version 2020.36.11 and received this warning "Incompatible vehicle modification detected. Potential risk of damage or shutdown"
After rebooting the car it went away. Thankfully!
What a difference in acceleration especially from a dead stop.
 
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I thought the Performance M3 went from 3.5 to 60 to 3.2 with the boost option??

That was the first 5% power bump. The 2nd 5% power bump got it to about 3s flat (with rollout). Both were free. The LR AWD got the same bumps and made the car faster too. The Model 3 LR AWD without acceleration boost can do about 3.9 0-60 (w/ rollout). With boost, it can do 3.5s.
 
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Agreed, but lets qualify that you're starting with a car that does 0-60 in <5s.

It gets exponentially more expensive to increase those gains and decrease your 0-60 times.

For example,
- A relatively simple and cheap $500 ECU will probably get your 0-60 times from 8s down to 7.5s.
- It'll cost a small fortune to get your 3.5s down to 3s, even if you do your own wrenching.


White I agree this is a great deal for a 0.5 second increase, 10K for an ICE to gain 0.5 is woefully inaccurate and completely dependent on the motor. Give me any LSx vehicle, a welder , 5K and a weekend and Ill make 800+ horsepower with some left on the table. You can easily gain 0.5s on a 0-60 on a Pontiac GTP or Subaru WRX with a remap and 500 bucks in parts IF you do that install your self. Where things get annoying is you actually have to put the effort into installing the parts vs I click a button on my phone, money disappears and speed appears.
 
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No, it doesn't need to be on WiFi. I upgraded (connected via LTE) while I was parked and charging at work. It'll reboot in <1 minute to enable the upgrade.

Definitely want the acceleration boost! Does anyone know if you order it do you have to be connected to your WiFi for the download? Can you schedule the software update for a time in the future or after you purchase it you immediately have to download and update?
 
Insurance probably doesn’t cover this cost if you got into an accident and get a new Y, huh?
It’s going to depend on your carrier. Many companies are slow to figure out how to deal with cars like these where you can purchase intangible (non-physical) factory upgrades post-purchase. Some will issue a “custom” parts endorsement (for an additional premium), some won’t. Anyone who is adding this, EAP, FSD or whatever should contact their agent to discuss to prevent problems if claims should arise. And do it by email or in writing...don't rely on verbal.
 
Agreed, but lets qualify that you're starting with a car that does 0-60 in <5s.

It gets exponentially more expensive to increase those gains and decrease your 0-60 times.

For example,
- A relatively simple and cheap $500 ECU will probably get your 0-60 times from 8s down to 7.5s.
- It'll cost a small fortune to get your 3.5s down to 3s, even if you do your own wrenching.

eh. Base C6 Corvette can be had for less than 15K. Tune, Cam, exhaust and tires and you are down in the 3s. Add some boost and you are running sub 10 second quarter miles all day long. My point is that the fanbois would have you believe this is unheard of in the ICE game and that is just untrue. Again, ill take 0.5s for 2K at the push of a button any day of the week but I can do the same thing (possibly even cheaper) on a cheaper car with a similar starting 0-60.
 
eh. Base C6 Corvette can be had for less than 15K. Tune, Cam, exhaust and tires and you are down in the 3s. Add some boost and you are running sub 10 second quarter miles all day long. My point is that the fanbois would have you believe this is unheard of in the ICE game and that is just untrue. Again, ill take 0.5s for 2K at the push of a button any day of the week but I can do the same thing (possibly even cheaper) on a cheaper car with a similar starting 0-60.

On the street? Without prep? On street legal tires? With Joe off the street corner driving?

Get out of here with that mustang fanboy crap. Next thing you're going tell us is COVID-19 has killed more people than mustangs at a car show...
 
Great to hear! Can you please confirm in your typical driving (not mashing it right now for fun), your kWh is the same, and your range when charged is the same as it was prior to the upgrade?

Got back from a 300 mile road trip over the weekend. Happy to report the Wh/mi figures are the same pre-boost vs post-boost. I saw no change in efficiency and averaged 263 Wh/mi on my road trip which is identical to the pre-boost figures for the same route.
 
Got back from a 300 mile road trip over the weekend. Happy to report the Wh/mi figures are the same pre-boost vs post-boost. I saw no change in efficiency and averaged 263 Wh/mi on my road trip which is identical to the pre-boost figures for the same route.
That's good to hear. There are many that have made the assumption that this was going to be the case. Funny though some on Reddit ridiculing those assumptions stating, "YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT ALL TESLA HAS DONE TO BATTERY MANAGEMENT ECT ECT BLA." Is it known what the EPA rated watt per mile is on the Y? I have calculated this to be 245 but I'm unsure if this is correct. If this is true, then your 263 is approx 90 percent efficiency. If so, that's good for a road trip.
 
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It’s going to depend on your carrier. Many companies are slow to figure out how to deal with cars like these where you can purchase intangible (non-physical) factory upgrades post-purchase. Some will issue a “custom” parts endorsement (for an additional premium), some won’t. Anyone who is adding this, EAP, FSD or whatever should contact their agent to discuss to prevent problems if claims should arise. And do it by email or in writing...don't rely on verbal.


$204 a year increase on insurance premiums per year to add coverage for EAP for me. Performance boost would probably be half that I’m “assuming”, I have no idea.
ALLSTATE
 
I wonder if there is any difference in acceleration gains for Model Y's with the 980 vs 990 rear motor. The early LR AWD Model Y's have the same rear motor (the 880) as the performance Y. Newer Model Y's have the lower performance 990 rear motors. (I'd love if us early buyers were somehow rewarded with more performance...)
 
On the street? Without prep? On street legal tires? With Joe off the street corner driving?

Get out of here with that mustang fanboy crap. Next thing you're going tell us is COVID-19 has killed more people than mustangs at a car show...
hol up. Where did we ever specify where this was happening at. Go look at the original context of some dude saying it takes 10K to shave half a second off a 0-60. Also who tf mentioned a mustang?! Read the context before you popoff. I found the Tesla fanboi. Though I appreciate the mustang at a car show cause everyone know those things kill at least 100K people a year in the US alone. Crazy ass mustang drivers.
 
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Got back from a 300 mile road trip over the weekend. Happy to report the Wh/mi figures are the same pre-boost vs post-boost. I saw no change in efficiency and averaged 263 Wh/mi on my road trip which is identical to the pre-boost figures for the same route.

I'm impressed with your gas pedal discipline. I figure wh/mi may go up for a while just from playing with the new power. You must have resisted tromping on it.
 
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I wonder if there is any difference in acceleration gains for Model Y's with the 980 vs 990 rear motor. The early LR AWD Model Y's have the same rear motor (the 880) as the performance Y. Newer Model Y's have the lower performance 990 rear motors. (I'd love if us early buyers were somehow rewarded with more performance...)

Been answered many times: The numbers reported don't show a difference. And from what I could tell, the 980 was just a stop-gap till they jumped to the 990. The only hope you have is for a third party mod which will more than likely lead to a major up hill battle with Tesla when it's all said and done. Also, as I've seen mentioned before, we don't know if the 980 in your vehicle is really as capable. There could be differences that make it less reliable at the same power levels as the Performance. There's just not enough info as of yet.
 
Been answered many times: The numbers reported don't show a difference. And from what I could tell, the 980 was just a stop-gap till they jumped to the 990. The only hope you have is for a third party mod which will more than likely lead to a major up hill battle with Tesla when it's all said and done. Also, as I've seen mentioned before, we don't know if the 980 in your vehicle is really as capable. There could be differences that make it less reliable at the same power levels as the Performance. There's just not enough info as of yet.

Thanks John. I appreciate the insight. I did not mean to be a noob, but had not seen this issue mentioned WRT the recent Model Y LR AWD performance boost.