jaitch
Member
I read part of the suggestion to say the top tabs go red during logging - which I liked! Still keep the red blinking dot but add something else obvious/non slow rate blinking/safe like colour change on top tabs.
All good input though.
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I read part of the suggestion to say the top tabs go red during logging - which I liked! Still keep the red blinking dot but add something else obvious/non slow rate blinking/safe like colour change on top tabs.
All good input though.
JzCastle
Member
Question to which I could not easily find an answer.
I have a Model S 75D from 11/2017 with 35.510km (~22k miles). I used the SMT app today and got the below figures.
As far as I have understood the S75D should have usable capacity of 72,6kWh. Which figure from the SMT app should I use so I can get the correct degradation percentage?
Which one is correct?
a) 75 kWh vs. 71,9 kWh = ~4,1%
b) 72,6 kWh vs. 71,9 kWh = ~0,96%
c) 72,6 kWh vs. 67,9 kWh = ~6,5%
d) something else?
How do my figures look in overall then?
Thanks!
I have a Model S 75D from 11/2017 with 35.510km (~22k miles). I used the SMT app today and got the below figures.
As far as I have understood the S75D should have usable capacity of 72,6kWh. Which figure from the SMT app should I use so I can get the correct degradation percentage?
Which one is correct?
a) 75 kWh vs. 71,9 kWh = ~4,1%
b) 72,6 kWh vs. 71,9 kWh = ~0,96%
c) 72,6 kWh vs. 67,9 kWh = ~6,5%
d) something else?
How do my figures look in overall then?
Thanks!
You should use Nominal full pack. The 'usable full pack' is an estimate of what you can use until the car shows 0% and 0 range. I can't say what your car should have or had when new, that is something you will have to google, and there is probably no single answer, which is why the app can't tell you this number straight up, as the 'new' capacity is not really given clearly anywhere I know of.
Incorrect. Usable full is your nominal minus 4kw. When your car is at 100%, it uses nominal divided by EPA consumption wpm to give you your total distance. As you drive, the car starts to adjust (lie) the number so that by the time you reach 20%, it's using usable remaining divided by EPA wpm to give you miles remaining. At 0% on the dash, nominal remaining should read 4kw and usable should read 0kw.
This is how Tesla fudges their range numbers. You could continue to drive to 0kw nominal remaining, but the car could shutdown before you get there if the pack voltage is no longer adequate to propel the car forward.
I thought the rule of thumb on Tesla vehicles was "90% of battery pack size" or in this case 0.9 * 75 kWh = 67.5 kWh is what you 'should' have available for your use. Note the 4.0 kWh "Buffer" that Tesla robbed from us a year or two ago in an update so that could mean that you will only ever see ~63.5 kWh on the display if you charge to 100% and drive it to 0% / 0 miles range. It might mean you can get 67.5 kWh but I'd bet it is closer to the 64.5 kWh number but give it a shot and report back.
I've done this with my own car (pre-refresh S 90D) and the original theoretical max using the calculation above would have been 81.0 kWh before the Buffer robbery or 77.0 kWh most days of the week. That's at their theoretical Wh/mi rating but if you can beat their efficiency then you can get higher than your number shown.
I was able to get 80.2 kWh from a full charge when my car was 8,000 miles old. I also did a lap or two around the Mall where the supercharger was until it read 0 miles remaining so I wasn't really in danger of being stranded but was curious what the kWh max available at that time was. Once you find out what your true max kWh is then you can use that from a full charge and it doesn't matter what your Wh/mi is or how much heater or air conditioning you use or what the elevation gain or drop is but once you hit your max kWh then it's time to charge.
When my car was 14,000 miles old the max available was down to 78.0 kWh but I was able to do a 330 mile drive starting with just 286 miles of range at 100%. Again, it didn't matter the Wh/mi but the max available kWh dictated how far I could go (at a given Wh/mi efficiency). The SMT reading (for you it is 67.9 kWh) is quite accurate as I recall so just use that as your benchmark and do some tests if you can get more than that from a full charge but it should be difficult to do I'd guess.
I've done this with my own car (pre-refresh S 90D) and the original theoretical max using the calculation above would have been 81.0 kWh before the Buffer robbery or 77.0 kWh most days of the week. That's at their theoretical Wh/mi rating but if you can beat their efficiency then you can get higher than your number shown.
I was able to get 80.2 kWh from a full charge when my car was 8,000 miles old. I also did a lap or two around the Mall where the supercharger was until it read 0 miles remaining so I wasn't really in danger of being stranded but was curious what the kWh max available at that time was. Once you find out what your true max kWh is then you can use that from a full charge and it doesn't matter what your Wh/mi is or how much heater or air conditioning you use or what the elevation gain or drop is but once you hit your max kWh then it's time to charge.
When my car was 14,000 miles old the max available was down to 78.0 kWh but I was able to do a 330 mile drive starting with just 286 miles of range at 100%. Again, it didn't matter the Wh/mi but the max available kWh dictated how far I could go (at a given Wh/mi efficiency). The SMT reading (for you it is 67.9 kWh) is quite accurate as I recall so just use that as your benchmark and do some tests if you can get more than that from a full charge but it should be difficult to do I'd guess.
LakeWorthB
Member
Lon12
Member
It is not explained well, but EMDS shop sends an e-mail to confirm your build date to any buyer of model 3 cables outside Europe (Europe only recieved model 3 since 2019, with the new plugs). That means, they have both types, and will get you the correct one for your car.
LakeWorthB
Member
Thanks, just placed my order. Now to wait patiently as it makes its way from Europe.
Lon12
Member
Check this thread, I know they discussed it, but can't remember if they found all or just one of the types. In any case I am pretty sure they have to be ordered by the hundreds or thousands. I think someone 3d printed them in there as well:
Diagnostic Port and Data Access - Tesla Owners Online
They are stored as the 'shared preferences' that Android takes care of as part of the user data for the app. Not sure if they can be exctracted and copied with some developer tools, I think you'd need root access.
I have thought about being able to import/export as a file, but never got around to it, and if anyone's interested. Will note your interest - probably this could lead to many other features, such as: Upload and share between users on the net, save and load different setups for yourself, and like you said share between phones and tablets.
jaitch
Member
One thing I noticed with my Nokia 1 (runs Android Go), in order for my laptop to recognise new log files on my phone I have to turn the phone off and on again. Not sure if that is phone or Scan My Tesla related. Just mention for info - may help others.
James
James
Anyone have any ideas here? I've been using SMT for several years in my 2013 P85+ and it's always worked great. So when I purchased a new Raven LR a few weeks ago I installed a new cable adapter (for 2015 and newer) and a new ODB2 bluetooth module. It was working fine for a few days but for some reason it's no longer initializing when I start the SMT app. I know the bluetooth module is working because TM Spy still connects and works fine but I only get the following when I start the SMT app:
Creating bluetooth socket...
Connecting to OBD2 adapter OBDII...
Initializing adapter...
Connecting to car...
Adapter error ?
>
Using ELM327 command set
Setting filters
Getting DC Charge total...
No data for 30 sec. Restarting...
Disposing socket...
Creating bluetooth socket...
and this just repeats over and over.
I'm using the LZLRUN OBS Super mini BT scanner
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0746H9Y9Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Creating bluetooth socket...
Connecting to OBD2 adapter OBDII...
Initializing adapter...
Connecting to car...
Adapter error ?
>
Using ELM327 command set
Setting filters
Getting DC Charge total...
No data for 30 sec. Restarting...
Disposing socket...
Creating bluetooth socket...
and this just repeats over and over.
I'm using the LZLRUN OBS Super mini BT scanner
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0746H9Y9Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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