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It can be 3 things that I can think of:
1. Adapter cable is not wired correctly (often CAN+ and CAN- are swapped)
2. Adapter is not paired correctly with your phone
3. Adapter does not support ATMA command. Test this by connecting with BlueTerm app, then type ATMA + enter. If you get lots of hex numbers, it works. If you get '?' or other errors, the adapter does not support ATMA, and is not ELM327 compatible. Many cheaper copy adapters do this for some reason.
Tesomega
Member
I have had several issues related to OBDLink LX where the bluetooth connectivity stops working, the only way i was able to get it working is to disconnect and reconnect the adapter.
Yeah, the OBDLink is pretty crashy. Best to use something like https://www.amazon.com/LITOON-Exten...ch+obd2+cable&qid=1562516973&s=gateway&sr=8-3
It would be nice if Scan My Tesla could be configured to give a loud alert sound when the OBD2 device fails.
jaitch
Member
Are you sure it is not the cable? I have the LX and not had any drops - not much use but just saying - normally things I buy don't work as intended!
James
Please note that OBDLink has a lot of activity on their firmware development, maybe flashing the latest version will help (with their official OBDLink app. You'd need a gas or diesel car connected to make that app work though)
Here is their recent firmware changelog:
ScanTool.net, LLC - Firmware Updates for OBDLink LX
There was something about LX going to sleep a while back in this thread, where a few users had a problem sounding similar to yours, and it was fixed by sending a few sleep settings commands to it. I have only heard about 2 people have that problem though, and not recieved enough info to implement this into the app, at least not yet. Please do report if you have the same problem, and the sleep settings will fix it.
Just updated firmware, didn't need an ICE. Plugged into OBD port under steering wheel, and OBDLink app is able to detected device and detect an OBD2 link (though limited info), but enough for the app to allow you to register the dongle. You can then go to settings and update firmware. Mine timed out during the firmware upload, which I thought bricked the dongle. I plugged it into the CAN bus diagnostic port, used the OBDLink app to attempt to update firmware again (trying to connect to dongle still won't work, don't bother) and after about 20sec it uploaded and all working 
.
.
jaitch
Member
What sort of time period? I can check mine if I know what time we are talking about.
James
I installed the OBDLink app. It wouldn't connect with the device attached to the Tesla - had to move it to an ICE relic. It would then connect, so I started the firmware update process (from 4.3 to 4.5.1). The update process aborted with an error part-way through and now my OBDLink is bricked.
The lights still come on and it can be paired with, but no app can connect to it.
Sigh.
The lights still come on and it can be paired with, but no app can connect to it.
Sigh.
Just connect to the OBD port under steering wheel just so that you can connect to device and update firmware
Just connect to the OBD port under steering wheel just so that you can connect to device and update firmware
It won't connect in any port - including the ICE car.
I recently went through this.
Plug it (to anything, even Tesla diagnostics)After a firmware update I suppose the adapter goes back to factory blank, i.e. your pairing is gone. So start with un-pairing then re-pairing.
Open OBDLink app
Go to settings - Firmware update - little menu on the upper right - firmware restore
In that menu you can choose between many recent firmware versions for the OBDLink adapter, just get the latest one.
I also found out that my Huawei P20 Pro could not complete the firmware, but stop half way. This makes some sense, as Scan My Tesla also has a hard time with this phone, bluetooth data is coming in in big chunks, sometimes corrupted.
Hope this helps.
PS. My OBDLinks will hang if I do 'can dump' for a while. Perhaps it can happen on occation if logging the 'All' tab for a long time too.Then they need a power cycle / unplug, and they are OK. I am in contact with OBDLink for them to try to reproduce the issue, and hopefully fix it.
scottf200
Well-Known Member
This may or may not work and related to other apps I use.
Quote: This sounds like your device entered doze mode, a new feature on Android 6.0+. Doze mode is a battery optimization setting that restricts network access in background services and apps to help conserve battery. To avoid this, you must disable battery optimizations for the app 'Scan My Tesla' explicitly yourself. You can get to this setting easily by going to the Settings screen in the app and touching the Battery Optimizations menu option under the Background Services group.
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