-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
The new MX+ module works just fine. All gauges update fast and work smooth. Thanks for the suggestions!
When I try and open a log from within SMT (.csv files) the app just stops. I can open them on a PC, so the files seem good.
Generally, I could do with more information on how to use this app. What I'd like to do is log data like throttle pedal position, brake pedal., steering angle, front/rear power & torque, SOC etc. and include a timestamp within the log file so I can sync this log with data/video from other devices. I've got some way towards this by creating a new tab and copying and pasting gauges from other tabs but I can't see how to get a timestamp or get the whole thing working. Are there any tutorials or a user guide anywhere?
Generally, I could do with more information on how to use this app. What I'd like to do is log data like throttle pedal position, brake pedal., steering angle, front/rear power & torque, SOC etc. and include a timestamp within the log file so I can sync this log with data/video from other devices. I've got some way towards this by creating a new tab and copying and pasting gauges from other tabs but I can't see how to get a timestamp or get the whole thing working. Are there any tutorials or a user guide anywhere?
It worked!
I had to take off the panel, but it's finally connected!
Thank you
Well I see posts saying they have one but it is not the normal OBD-II type connector so you need an adaptor, I've read posts that say there is no data on there it only provides power (though I can see in your pic the socket looks populated beyond just power).
Model 3 doesn't have one. You have to remove a plastic panel behind the center console and connect a cable between the car's own canbus connection.
Hey guys, Wow long thread. I read half of it but it was the first half with what I assume is old data lol.
I would like to have a scanner for my new Model X and I am hoping you can tell me exactly what I need. I use IOS products but I could buy an old Android phone if I have to (sounds like I do).
I have been using Carloop OBD wifi adapters. They take the basic CAN data, uses the wifi hotspot on my tablet, and sends the data to an IP address that I can access on any device that is on the same network. Its a pain in the ass. Data is limited to total pack voltage, battery amps, battery kwh, battery soc, Temp high, temp low, cell voltage high, cell voltage low. I really want better and faster data. Range is limited and the whole system is limited by cell coverage. It sucks. If there is no service or slow service I cant access the data.
So it sounds like I need an Android device and an OBDLink LX like this. https://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-427...&refRID=1CZG6NZ6760Y9QCKR35T&tag=scantonet-20
Is that right?
Any other input?
How far is the range on this bluetooth device? Can it work from 20-30 feet away?
Thanks so much!!
I would like to have a scanner for my new Model X and I am hoping you can tell me exactly what I need. I use IOS products but I could buy an old Android phone if I have to (sounds like I do).
I have been using Carloop OBD wifi adapters. They take the basic CAN data, uses the wifi hotspot on my tablet, and sends the data to an IP address that I can access on any device that is on the same network. Its a pain in the ass. Data is limited to total pack voltage, battery amps, battery kwh, battery soc, Temp high, temp low, cell voltage high, cell voltage low. I really want better and faster data. Range is limited and the whole system is limited by cell coverage. It sucks. If there is no service or slow service I cant access the data.
So it sounds like I need an Android device and an OBDLink LX like this. https://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-427...&refRID=1CZG6NZ6760Y9QCKR35T&tag=scantonet-20
Is that right?
Any other input?
How far is the range on this bluetooth device? Can it work from 20-30 feet away?
Thanks so much!!
This is the intended way to use the app, and to create logs. If you log as CSV, each line has a timestamp in milliseconds since log start. The log filename itself is the timestamp at the start of the log.
The CSV will contain the items you have in your tab when you start logging. Remove anything you don't need, it will create tidier logs, but mostly, will get the data faster and more accurately through the bluetooth adapter as it filters out only what you have in your tab.
Documentation is here scan my tesla - have an extra look at the 'reccommended software' section that has tools for reading logs etc.
Youtube search scan my tesla - YouTube - TeslaBjørn is creating a lot of great videos about the app lately.
Any other questions I am happy to answer. I am just thrilled that you guys are interested in using the app
OK thankyou, I am looking at a few YT videos and played with the app a bit more so slowly I'm learningThis is the intended way to use the app, and to create logs. If you log as CSV, each line has a timestamp in milliseconds since log start. The log filename itself is the timestamp at the start of the log.
The CSV will contain the items you have in your tab when you start logging. Remove anything you don't need, it will create tidier logs, but mostly, will get the data faster and more accurately through the bluetooth adapter as it filters out only what you have in your tab.
Documentation is here scan my tesla - have an extra look at the 'reccommended software' section that has tools for reading logs etc.
Youtube search scan my tesla - YouTube - TeslaBjørn is creating a lot of great videos about the app lately.
Any other questions I am happy to answer. I am just thrilled that you guys are interested in using the app
I can see it will do all I want (and more) and now I know for instance that the timestamp is in ms from file start, I can generate my own timecode to sync data to other streams.
I still can't see how I can get specific signals into a new tab other than copying and pasting from another tab. Is there another way?
Don't forget a diagnostic port to OBD cable adapter, otherwise you won't have a place to plug in the OBDLink.
Last edited:
ScanMyTesla only works on android devices. I bought a refurbed Samsung J7 phone intended for Straight Talk (or one of the other prepaid cell carriers Walmart offers) from Walmart for $30 or $40, and never activated the cell service. Be careful buying a phone designed for the Verizon network. The first phone I bought was a LG phone on the Verizon network. A note on the box (in small print) indicated the phone would not work on WiFi until you purchase a cell plan. I returned that phone and bought the Samsung (non-Verizon network version) which can operate on WiFi without a cell plan. I then bought the ScanMyTesla app on the google play store. Unfortunately, ScanMyTesla does not work on iPhones.
The adapter cable you need depends on the specific model and year of your car. My adapter cable cost $25 for a 2013 S.
I bought the OBDLink MX+ scanner ($80) but the LX scanner (about $50) works just as well and is cheaper.
The phone connects to the scanner using Bluetooth and has a range (for me) of about 30 feet (give it take).
I think you will be happy with the app. It provides more info than you will likely want. If you have an android device you can download a demo (actually a running snapshot of collected data) of the app from the google play store for free to see what data it provides.
ScanMyTesla enabled me to conclusively determine that my battery has been capped. A 100% SOC now only charges up to 4.09 volts per cell instead of the prior 4.2 volts before my car was forcefully updated to ver 9 (2918.16.2) by Tesla.
Thank you for the info. If the LX works why would you go with the MX+? I heard that one works with IOS but the app is only on android so not sure why Id do that.
Thanks for the info about the phone! I found on on FB I might buy.
I do have the adapter. I have a new Model X and its already working with my old Carloop set up.
I bought the OBDLink MX+ over the LX because it also works with iPhone apps and can be used with apps for ICE cars including GM and Ford cars with their proprietary canbus systems. Basically, it affords extra versatility for $20 extra dollars.
OK thankyou, I am looking at a few YT videos and played with the app a bit more so slowly I'm learning
I can see it will do all I want (and more) and now I know for instance that the timestamp is in ms from file start, I can generate my own timecode to sync data to other streams.
I still can't see how I can get specific signals into a new tab other than copying and pasting from another tab. Is there another way?
The other way is to start with one of the standard tabs, then select and delete what you don't want, that could be faster. Right menu -> new tab -> select the Perf tab for instance. Then delete what you don't want.
Also don't be afraid to delete tabs, to tidy up what you rarely use. You can always bring them back with 'New tab', or reset the whole layout with 'Factory reset all tabs'.
Similar threads
