14-30 charge adapter - 110v/120v capable?

[Aphinity]

I'm trying to adapt to a 30amp 110v service and I'm not seeing a 110v capable plug with 30amp capability. I'd rather not use the 5-20 adapter as it's not going to get full amperage.

Given that the 5-15 connector has been known to accept 240v (despite this being a bad idea), I'm curious if anyone has tried 110V with the 10-30 or 14-30 adapters on the gen2 mobile connector?

 

[COrocket]

I've seen people on this forum mis-wire a 14-50 and inadvertently put a hot wire on the neutral (unused) and the neutral wire in the hot terminal, then ask why their car was charging at 32A/120V. So that leads me to believe that if you were to only connect three wires (correctly) to a 14-30 plug then you'd see 24A/120V. I wouldn't try a 10-30 since its an older plug that isn't designed to be grounded which is never a good thing.

There is a plug called a TT-30 that is 30A/120V, usually referred to a 30 Amp hookup at campgrounds. Tesla does not make a TT-30 adapter but they are available from third parties. TT-30 Adapter for Tesla Model S/X/3/Y Gen 2 – EVSE Adapters

Although the 14-30 should work, The TT-30 would be the most correct way of doing things since you would be wiring the outlet as designed.

 

[Rocky_H]

Right, that's been a long used technique with Teslas charge cables/adapters. As long as you have an adapter that will properly set the amount of amps, you can use it with either a 120V or 208V or 240V source. It's just passing the two pin connections into the body of the UMC to look for "voltage difference", and it will happily detect and use whatever is there. It's not actually looking for a specific voltage level from the adapter type.

This was much more needed when Tesla made far fewer adapters, so it was common to use:
Tesla 14-30 (240V) for TT-30(120V)
Tesla 5-20 (120V) for 6-20(240V).

*Note* There is a caveat I think with that 14-30 to TT-30 kind of situation if you are building your own pigtail like that. I'm not sure if the Gen 2 UMC still has this issue, but with the Gen 1, the polarity of which side had the neutral mattered. I think with how it tries to do the ground check and compare to a voltage pin, it needs to see a voltage difference, and if you happen to put the neutral on that side, it sees 0V on both and shows a red error light.

 

[Aphinity]

I've seen people on this forum mis-wire a 14-50 and inadvertently put a hot wire on the neutral (unused) and the neutral wire in the hot terminal, then ask why their car was charging at 32A/120V. So that leads me to believe that if you were to only connect three wires (correctly) to a 14-30 plug then you'd see 24A/120V. I wouldn't try a 10-30 since its an older plug that isn't designed to be grounded which is never a good thing.

There is a plug called a TT-30 that is 30A/120V, usually referred to a 30 Amp hookup at campgrounds. Tesla does not make a TT-30 adapter but they are available from third parties. TT-30 Adapter for Tesla Model S/X/3/Y Gen 2 – EVSE Adapters

Although the 14-30 should work, The TT-30 would be the most correct way of doing things since you would be wiring the outlet as designed.

Right, that's been a long used technique with Teslas charge cables/adapters. As long as you have an adapter that will properly set the amount of amps, you can use it with either a 120V or 208V or 240V source. It's just passing the two pin connections into the body of the UMC to look for "voltage difference", and it will happily detect and use whatever is there. It's not actually looking for a specific voltage level from the adapter type.

This was much more needed when Tesla made far fewer adapters, so it was common to use:
Tesla 14-30 (240V) for TT-30(120V)
Tesla 5-20 (120V) for 6-20(240V).

Thanks guys, this is exactly what I was hoping. In fact, I'm looking at how I can adapt to a TT-30 connector while still getting/using a connector I will be using anyway (the 14-30).

Thanks for the info! I'll check my work 3 times, give it a shot, and report back on how it works once I get around to doing it.

Also, @COrocket I completely agree on the 10-30 connector being hot garbage. I wouldn't use it if I can avoid it.

 

[user212_nr]

I'm trying to adapt to a 30amp 110v service and I'm not seeing a 110v capable plug with 30amp capability. I'd rather not use the 5-20 adapter as it's not going to get full amperage.

It does not require any new wiring in order to pass 240v onto a 30A 120v circuit. All you need to do is change the breaker to a double-pole breaker and put some black tape on the neutral wire.

The 14-30 requires 4 wires, but the neutral wire is unused. The 6-30 would work fine, but Tesla doesn't sell the adapter, probably EVSE does.

Also, people don't usually refer to the outlets they have as "service". Service refers to the wires that you get from the street, which will be 240v 60/100/200A "service".

It sounds like you are saying you have 2 wires and a ground connected to a 30A breaker, not connected to an outlet. You really should put the exact details instead of asking first how to do something in a strange way. Sure, it will work, but maybe there's something else you can do.

 

[smatthew]

The NEMA adapters for the UMC 2 don't tell the UMC or car anything about what voltage they expect. Because it doesn't matter. To protect the wires, the only thing that matters is amperage. The charger (which is inside the car) will work on anything from 85 volts to 270ish volts.

 

[wws]

This adapter seems pre-made for what you want to do: https://www.amazon.com/ONETAK-Charger-Compatible-Connector-Connecter/dp/B07XNPHXV2

( I use the evseadapters TT-30 UMC adapter mentioned in post #2 though.)

 

[smatthew]

This adapter seems pre-made for what you want to do: https://www.amazon.com/ONETAK-Charger-Compatible-Connector-Connecter/dp/B07XNPHXV2

( I use the evseadapters TT-30 UMC adapter mentioned in post #2 though.)

And that connector should be relatively safe since the correct amperage will be set.

 

[Aphinity]

Also, people don't usually refer to the outlets they have as "service". Service refers to the wires that you get from the street, which will be 240v 60/100/200A "service".

I was not aware of this wording. Thanks for filling me in. So, I guess I meant split phase 120v? I believe the terminology may be used slightly differently where I am from, but maybe not. I've always thought the outlet output, regardless of the pole voltage, to be called the 'service' voltage. I'll look it up because now I'm curious.

It sounds like you are saying you have 2 wires and a ground connected to a 30A breaker, not connected to an outlet. You really should put the exact details instead of asking first how to do something in a strange way. Sure, it will work, but maybe there's something else you can do.

I'm trying to use a tesla supplied 30 amp connector/adapter and adapt it so that it will plug into an TT-30 outlet, which is 120v 30a. Yes, I'm aware of the overpriced one sold on US amazon and EVSE adapters, which I'm betting is just a 14-30 tesla connector with the head cut off and attached to a TT-30. I'm essentially trying to see if I can replicate that, and based on what @COrocket confirmed above, I'm fairly sure I can. I'm just not planning to cut off the head.

Thanks for your suggestions!

 

[user212_nr]

I was not aware of this wording. Thanks for filling me in. So, I guess I meant split phase 120v? I believe the terminology may be used slightly differently where I am from, but maybe not. I've always thought the outlet output, regardless of the pole voltage, to be called the 'service' voltage. I'll look it up because now I'm curious.

The term "service" refers generally to the wires that are coming from the street to your electrical meter / main panel. If you want more power to the home they call that a "service upgrade". They refer to it as 240v service counting the line-line voltage.

If it is your home, you can just upgrade the TT-30 to a 240v circuit (6-20, 6-30) by rewiring the neutral wire in the panel.

Another idea, a bit more expensive, is to get a wall connector. It doesn't need a neutral and can be set to 30A.

I'm trying to use a tesla supplied 30 amp connector/adapter and adapt it so that it will plug into an TT-30 outlet, which is 120v 30a. Yes, I'm aware of the overpriced one sold on US amazon and EVSE adapters, which I'm betting is just a 14-30 tesla connector with the head cut off and attached to a TT-30. I'm essentially trying to see if I can replicate that, and based on what @COrocket confirmed above, I'm fairly sure I can. I'm just not planning to cut off the head.

Its not overpriced, just kind of a waste to invest in a 120v circuit. You can't replicate a manufactured product's quality/reliability by cutting off the plug and saving $20. There is a temperature sensor in the plug, so it may or may not work.

 

[Aphinity]

If it is your home, you can just upgrade the TT-30 to a 240v circuit (6-20, 6-30) by rewiring the neutral wire in the panel.

This is specifically for RV parks where, at least here, the TT-30 is more common than not. I want to have this option when I travel.

Its not overpriced, just kind of a waste to invest in a 120v circuit. You can't replicate a manufactured product's quality/reliability by cutting off the plug and saving $20. There is a temperature sensor in the plug, so it may or may not work.

Yeah, I wouldn't cut it off. I would adapt the 14-30 connector to a TT-30. Good piece of advice about the temp sensor in the plug head though. I didn't think of that.

 

[earthwormjim]

The NEMA adapters for the UMC 2 don't tell the UMC or car anything about what voltage they expect. Because it doesn't matter. To protect the wires, the only thing that matters is amperage. The charger (which is inside the car) will work on anything from 85 volts to 270ish volts.

Minor correction, in the Model 3 and Y, the charger is rated for 277Vac, plus line regulation tolerance. It's only the X and S chargers which are really only rated for roughly 270-277Vac absolute max, with no tolerance for line regulation above 277Vac.


OP you can always go down in voltage with an electrical connector. I carry a NEMA 6-20 plug with me at all times in the car, with a pigtail home made adapter for 120V outlets, 240V outlets or 277V outlets, which I made out of a junction box. If it's a 15A circuit I'm plugging into, I just set the current limit in the car lower. This is strictly my backup charging solution, to handle any plug situation no matter where I am.

 

[Aphinity]

Minor correction, in the Model 3 and Y, the charger is rated for 277Vac, plus line regulation tolerance. It's only the X and S chargers which are really only rated for roughly 270-277Vac absolute max, with no tolerance for line regulation above 277Vac.


OP you can always go down in voltage with an electrical connector. I carry a NEMA 6-20 plug with me at all times in the car, with a pigtail home made adapter for 120V outlets, 240V outlets or 277V outlets, which I made out of a junction box. If it's a 15A circuit I'm plugging into, I just set the current limit in the car lower. This is strictly my backup charging solution, to handle any plug situation no matter where I am.

I like the solution! I may do something similar.

Very key to point out to anyone considering this that it's risky, and you do have to pay attention and know what you're doing, plus double-check your work with an electrician, or you could cause a serious problem, fire, or worse. I've had it pointed out to me many times just how dangerous ideas like this are in the wrong hands.

 

[dgpcolorado]

FWIW, I use my modified 14-30 Gen 2 adapter on my home 14-50 outlet and with my TT-30P to 14-50R adapter at "30 amp" campgrounds. It works fine at both 240 volts and 120 volts and correctly sets the current to 24 amps on the MC every time I use it. So far as Gen 2 adapters go, this is a "solved" problem:

For those who aren't quite sure what they are looking at, I used a hacksaw blade to cut the neutral pin off of the Tesla 14-30 adapter, so that it fits both 14-30 and 14-50 outlets. Tesla doesn't use the neutral pin in its 14-30 or 14-50 adapters, making it completely unnecessary. The remaining round pin is the ground and the two blades are the "hots." The Gen 2 adapter not only sets the current correctly it has a temperature sensor that can detect an overheated outlet and adjust the current for safety (although it won't do so effectively with my old-style TT-30 adapter, of course; a Gen 2 TT-30 adapter from EVSEadapters.com would be a better, albeit more expensive, choice for those looking to charge at "30 amp" campgrounds).

 

[Rocky_H]

For those who aren't quite sure what they are looking at, I used a hacksaw blade to cut the neutral pin off of the Tesla 14-30 adapter, so that it fits both 14-30 and 14-50 outlets.

I did the same thing with my Gen1 plug adapter. I have one of the pretty long 30 foot 14-50 extension cords, so now that adapter can plug into one end and set the current properly if I need extra length to get to a TT-30 or 10-30 or 14-30 on the other end. And I have used that for plugging into the dryer outlet in the basement of a house I rented on a vacation once.

 

[Aphinity]

FWIW, I use my modified 14-30 Gen 2 adapter on my home 14-50 outlet and with my TT-30P to 14-50R adapter at "30 amp" campgrounds. It works fine at both 240 volts and 120 volts and correctly sets the current to 24 amps on the MC every time I use it. So far as Gen 2 adapters go, this is a "solved" problem:

View attachment 573214

For those who aren't quite sure what they are looking at, I used a hacksaw blade to cut the neutral pin off of the Tesla 14-30 adapter, so that it fits both 14-30 and 14-50 outlets. Tesla doesn't use the neutral pin in its 14-30 or 14-50 adapters, making it completely unnecessary. The remaining round pin is the ground and the two blades are the "hots." The Gen 2 adapter not only sets the current correctly it has a temperature sensor that can detect an overheated outlet and adjust the current for safety (although it won't do so effectively with my old-style TT-30 adapter, of course; a Gen 2 TT-30 adapter from EVSEadapters.com would be a better, albeit more expensive, choice for those looking to charge at "30 amp" campgrounds).

That's a great idea! Strange that Tesla wouldn't just sell the adapter like this in the first place if that neutral isn't even connected.Then again, I guess the amperage would be wrong in some cases then, which isn't safe. Nevermind.. answered my own question!

In this case, I assume it's restricted to 24amps, correct? It doesn't ramp up to 32 amps for a 50 amp outlet?

 

[wws]

That's a great idea! Strange that Tesla wouldn't just sell the adapter like this in the first place if that neutral isn't even connected.Then again, I guess the amperage would be wrong in some cases then, which isn't safe. Nevermind.. answered my own question!

In this case, I assume it's restricted to 24amps, correct? It doesn't ramp up to 32 amps for a 50 amp outlet?

It is a 14-30 adapter. So it will report a safe max of 24 amps to the car regardless of plugging it into a 14-50 - or the very rare 14-60 for that matter.

 

[n2mb_racing]

Yes, 240v umc plugs will accept 120v. I have charged at 120v 32A!

 

[Nonlin]

Sorry to resurrect this but I'm having some issues. It sounds like 120v should work with a 14-30 but my setup isn't even powering it on.

Any advice?

Mobile Charger wont' power up with Nema 14-30 using an adapter.

I bought this with the hopes of squeezing some more amps into my Tesla. https://www.amazon.com/Generator-L14-30-Receptacle-Female-Adapter/dp/B0B3LJ2R6H/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 I tested Live right to N 120 volts and Live Left to N 120 volts. I'm only using one pole/phase not two so...

teslamotorsclub.com

 

[Nonlin]

FWIW, I use my modified 14-30 Gen 2 adapter on my home 14-50 outlet and with my TT-30P to 14-50R adapter at "30 amp" campgrounds. It works fine at both 240 volts and 120 volts and correctly sets the current to 24 amps on the MC every time I use it. So far as Gen 2 adapters go, this is a "solved" problem:

View attachment 573214

For those who aren't quite sure what they are looking at, I used a hacksaw blade to cut the neutral pin off of the Tesla 14-30 adapter, so that it fits both 14-30 and 14-50 outlets. Tesla doesn't use the neutral pin in its 14-30 or 14-50 adapters, making it completely unnecessary. The remaining round pin is the ground and the two blades are the "hots." The Gen 2 adapter not only sets the current correctly it has a temperature sensor that can detect an overheated outlet and adjust the current for safety (although it won't do so effectively with my old-style TT-30 adapter, of course; a Gen 2 TT-30 adapter from EVSEadapters.com would be a better, albeit more expensive, choice for those looking to charge at "30 amp" campgrounds).

Was cutting part of making it work for 120v or was it strictly to have it work between nema 14-30/50?