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Firmware 7.0

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Bar is the SI unit for pressure if my memory isn't totally wrong.

But otoh, speed would be in m/s in that case...
I guess it reasonably is, since it's just 100 kPa's. But when you display only one decimal place of accuracy, it doesn't feel like the right unit. If the pressure is 46 psi, I want to see 317 kPa, not 3.2 bar. Maybe I'm just being fussy, and perhaps the TPMS can't resolve more accurately than a tenth of a bar, but it just feels wrong.

And we should be able to set psi independent of distance!!! :smile:

Yeah, I guess I am fussy...!
 
And we should be able to set psi independent of distance!!! :smile:

Yeah, I guess I am fussy...!
No you are not. Distance units are not necessarily the best indicators of other units in use by the same user. Us Canadians use the metric system. But not for everything... I have no clue how tall I am in centimeters, or my weight in kilos. But I know those in feet, inches and pounds. My distances are measured in kilometers, but I want tire pressures in psi.
Want to go farther? I speak French, but please do not set my default paper size to A4! I use US-letter like everyone else.
And so on. Software vendors and manufacturers have to make informed assumptions on those preferences and aim to please most with their default values. An extra configurable option would not be too much to ask IMHO.
 
No you are not. Distance units are not necessarily the best indicators of other units in use by the same user. Us Canadians use the metric system. But not for everything... I have no clue how tall I am in centimeters, or my weight in kilos. But I know those in feet, inches and pounds. My distances are measured in kilometers, but I want tire pressures in psi.
Want to go farther? I speak French, but please do not set my default paper size to A4! I use US-letter like everyone else.
And so on. Software vendors and manufacturers have to make informed assumptions on those preferences and aim to please most with their default values. An extra configurable option would not be too much to ask IMHO.

It throws me off every times I visit my family in London to use miles, but liters in terms of gas, kg & stone in terms of weight, and Celsius in terms of temperature. Never got a scenario of height/distance to see if its meters for feet/inches. So yes, "distance units are not necessarily the best indicators of other units in use by the same user".
 
I lost my 3G towards the end of the trip. Not sure if it was related, but the warning tone for the Autopilot wanting to know I was still there seemed to disappear with it. Just screen prompts, no sound. I didn't like that very much... had it tripped out without me seeing the dash warning, I could have found myself in the weeds.

FYI, the warning that says "Hold the steering wheel" doesn't necessarily have an associated chime every time it comes on.

I took a drive down 280 yesterday, and it would come on without the chimes at times. If I ignored it or didn't see it, it would then chime. I'm guess it only chimes at the same time as the first warning on the IC (instrument cluster) when it's lost a significant amount of confidence in reading lane markings.

So perhaps you were paying more attention to the IC when your 3G connection was lost and started noticing the warnings on the screen?
 
So perhaps you were paying more attention to the IC when your 3G connection was lost and started noticing the warnings on the screen?
"Maybe" and "I hope so"...!

I don't recall hearing it even once after the 3G flaked, but perhaps circumstances were such that the audible alert wasn't thought to be necessary. Still, as drivers we're supposed to be watching the road, not the dash, so if a condition comes up on the panel you'd think there would be an audible alert to prompt the driver to look at it. Otherwise why put it on the screen and hope the driver notices?
 
FYI, the warning that says "Hold the steering wheel" doesn't necessarily have an associated chime every time it comes on.

Thanks for confirming that!

I haven't used the feature all that much yet, but had noticed this, and was wondering if it was as you described, or if I just wasn't hearing the chime some of the time. I was fairly certain that it wasn't that I wasn't not hearing the chime, but then I had wondered if perhaps the first notification is silent, and when I did hear the chime and see the notification, I had actually missed the first silent notification!

Your post clears all this up, and sets my mind at ease that I probably wasn't missing either the chime or the visual notification!

Thanks!
 
"Maybe" and "I hope so"...!

I don't recall hearing it even once after the 3G flaked, but perhaps circumstances were such that the audible alert wasn't thought to be necessary. Still, as drivers we're supposed to be watching the road, not the dash, so if a condition comes up on the panel you'd think there would be an audible alert to prompt the driver to look at it. Otherwise why put it on the screen and hope the driver notices?

Technically, the driver is supposed to be watching the road AND holding the steering wheel at all times, so if the car has lower confidence in the lane markings, it should check that the driver is holding the steering wheel and, if the driver is, never show the "hold the steering wheel" warning (if needed, it may still need to throw the "take over immediately" warning with high-pitched chimes if it totally loses sight and doesn't know what to do).

But in case the driver isn't holding the steering wheel at all, I would venture to say that a warning message without a chime could be sufficient as long as the confidence in lane markings doesn't drop below a certain threshold that is deemed dangerous enough. This gives the driver time to hold the steering wheel without constant being nagged by a chime, which could get annoying to both the driver and passengers. Of course if the confidence drops below said theoretical threshold, chimes would be needed.

I personally Tesla struck a good balance between warnings and chimes so as not to overwhelm the drive with noises.

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Thanks for confirming that!

I haven't used the feature all that much yet, but had noticed this, and was wondering if it was as you described, or if I just wasn't hearing the chime some of the time. I was fairly certain that it wasn't that I wasn't not hearing the chime, but then I had wondered if perhaps the first notification is silent, and when I did hear the chime and see the notification, I had actually missed the first silent notification!

Your post clears all this up, and sets my mind at ease that I probably wasn't missing either the chime or the visual notification!

Thanks!

Sure thing! Glad to help, as always.
 
Question on tire pressure displays - mine keeps going from numbers to dashes - is this normal? Right now sitting in the garage it displays dashes for the pressures. But usually while driving it displays numbers. My Volt doesn't do this - it always shows numbers.
 
Here's a quick snapshot of the open charge port indication of the car status "app" in the IC:

image.jpeg
 
...and Canada uses kPa
I just remember that 1 bar = 100 kPa. That is adequate for me.

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No you are not. Distance units are not necessarily the best indicators of other units in use by the same user. Us Canadians use the metric system. But not for everything... I have no clue how tall I am in centimeters, or my weight in kilos. But I know those in feet, inches and pounds. My distances are measured in kilometers, but I want tire pressures in psi.
Want to go farther? I speak French, but please do not set my default paper size to A4! I use US-letter like everyone
But our gal is different than US gal. :tongue: When the car tire spec 310 kPa, I just look for 3.1 bar on the TPMS. No big deal for me.
 
Hi,

Quick update from Canada. Received the notification at midnight on the 19th and installed today (19th @ 5pm). Everything seems to be working well. Tried autopilot (against what is recommended) on a sigle road, wet at night and it still worked some. Will do more tests in the coming days.

Tire pressure works great actually. Need to start rolling to activate it the first time and then it keeps showing the info. Helpful for me as I currently have a nail in my RR tire and this causes a slow leak. Waiting to get my winter tires to repair it... hehehe

Looking forward to the next few days!

Bertrand
 
Sorry if this has been covered elsewhere, but, any idea why in random situations while on full AP it will suddenly decelerate? I mean not actually braking like emergency brakes, but almost as if it sees a slow moving car. This has happened at least twice. The last was just on Saturday evening. I had just engaged AP about 5 seconds earlier, no "Hold the steering wheel" messages, no cars in front of me or any objects, clear lane markings, cruise control was set as appropriate, etc. It just randomly started slowing down. It felt like just regen braking, not manual brakes, but I had no idea why. I had to manually speed it back up and re-engage the cruise control. :confused:
I experienced something like this, but it turned out I just didn't understand how the system worked. Not sure if this applies to your situation.

If I'm driving along the highway without cruise or autosteer and I pull back twice on the stalk, I expect both autosteer and TACC to engage, and for TACC to be set at my current speed. However, that doesn't always happen. Sometimes I let off the pedal and the car starts slowing down, and once it started speeding up. When this happens, I look at TACC and see that it's set for some other speed.

I finally figured out that it was resuming the last speed I had set. If you want to keep your current speed, you have to first set TACC by pressing up on the stalk, then set autosteer by pulling back twice. I guess this only applies if you have previously set a speed during that drive.

Personally I don't think that is how AP should behave, but I'm pretty sure that's what it's doing. Anyone else notice this?
 
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I finally figured out that it was resuming the last speed I had set. If you want to keep your current speed, you have to first set TACC by pressing up on the stalk, then set autosteer by pulling back twice. I guess this only applies if you have previously set a speed during that drive.

Personally I don't think that is how AP should behave, but I'm pretty sure that's what it's doing. Anyone else notice this?

Yes, this is exactly what I've seen, and I'm still trying to form the habit of setting my speed before engaging auto pilot. I wish it would take whatever speed you are at when you engage.
 
I have done that before, but it wasn't the case here.

Yes, the first time it happened that is what I thought might have happened. But the second time, the first place my eyes went (after obviously looking out front to see if it was reacting to another car or object) was to look at the TACC and see the speed. I was in a 40 mph zone at the time, and it was set on 40mph.

So, I'm still confused. It hasn't happened again yet though. Will keep you updated if it does!
 
Yes, this is exactly what I've seen, and I'm still trying to form the habit of setting my speed before engaging auto pilot. I wish it would take whatever speed you are at when you engage.

I think Tesla was just trying to be consistent.

The first pull does what it has always done, which is re-engage cruise control at the last set speed. The second pull engages auto-steer. It is still possible to just do the first pull, and re-engage TACC at the last set speed, without engaging autosteer.

I haven't tried it, but I think there is a decent chance that a long pull, followed by a short pull will set the TACC speed to the speed assist speed, and then engage autosteer.

The one big problem with this new setup, though, is that we're re-engaging a previously set speed that we can no longer see accurately. We have to guess at what that speed was, based on that tiny, numberless speedometer. That's just wrong. Edit: It turns out I was mistaken about this. (I haven't driven the car that much with the new UI yet.) MarcG pointed out downthread that the previous set speed is displayed. So it's not "just wrong!" Apologies.)
 
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Over the last several months of driving with TACC, I formed the reflex of engaging TACC with a tug, usually followed by immediately doing a second long tug to set the speed to the detected speed limit. Up until 7.0, that used to work fine, but now it engages autosteer at the previous setpoint instead, with the bad consequences you guys have been discussing. I'm not sure whether to curse Tesla for repurposing the previous command sequence or not, but a curse or no curse, the practical outcome is I have to unlearn my previous habit and learn a new one. I guess I'm going to have to think of engaging TACC as being a flick up or flick down, usually followed by a single long tug. The car shouldn't misinterpret that one, well at least not until 7.1 or something.

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I think there is a decent chance that a long pull, followed by a short pull will set the TACC speed to the speed assist speed, and then engage autosteer.

Oh, I hadn't thought of that. I'll try that first, it should be an easier reeducation than flick-tug would be.

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… It just occurred to me that if Tesla wanted to, they could fix this by only enabling autosteer on two short tugs, leaving short-long with its previous meaning.