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Wiki Model S Delivery Update

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Breaking news!! Tesla took strong notice of the new player and made an aggressive move with a new EDD starting in just 4 days:

RN113953xxx ordered 9/22/2020 Plaid/red/blk/CF/19 EDD Sep 9-29
RN115453xxx ordered 8/8/2021 Plaid/red/blk/CF/19 EDD Sep 10-30
RN115507xxx ordered 8/17/2021 Plaid/msm/blk/wood/19 EDD Aug 22-Sep 5!!!

So it looks like they are indeed short on CF trim.. bummer.
Morning update! Tesla is favoring the newcomer by narrowing EDD range and bringing it forward, while keeping the other two steady for several days now:

RN113953xxx ordered 9/22/2020 Plaid/red/blk/CF/19 EDD Sep 9-29
RN115453xxx ordered 8/8/2021 Plaid/red/blk/CF/19 EDD Sep 10-30
RN115507xxx ordered 8/17/2021 Plaid/msm/blk/wood/19 EDD Aug 21-Sep 1

Given the date range is over 10 days wide, I’m not expecting a VIN any time soon, let alone a delivery in 2 days lol.

But it’s nice to have an option for a delivery timeframe well ahead of the EoQ madness! I’m seeing so many EDDs slated for the second half of September..
 
Proves the point that 21" wheels are strictly for people who prefer looks over actual functionality or advantages. IMO the loss of range and susceptibility to potholes damage and cost simply does not justify the arachnids but then again for LR customers the difference in range for the two tires is roughly 30 miles whereas for Plaid customers it is 48 miles which is significant enough not to consider Arachnids, for me. I want the range and I also want the best Tesla has to offer when it comes to acceleration soooo 19s it is, hubcaps or not lol.

Mostly for looks but their is functionality for the 21". They will handle better with the shorter/stiffer sidewalls. Driven over 7k miles through 12 states and no issues with the 21" on potholes, etc. These are hoss boat anchors.

Worth the cost of a few miles to me.
 
What are a truck privacy screen and a false bottom?
It is a trunk privacy, or a parcel shelf board as I think Tesla calls it. It is the flat, but foldable piece that can cover the items in the trunk when the hatch is closed. Here is an image of the parcel shelf (my correction).

False bottom is the piece that creates a single "floor" for the trunk. You can remove it and it exposes a sub-trunk where you can store additional items. Here is an image of the trunk piece, it is the lighter carpet item in the image (this is an older S model).
 
It is a trunk privacy, or a parcel shelf board as I think Tesla calls it. It is the flat, but foldable piece that can cover the items in the trunk when the hatch is closed. Here is an image of the parcel shelf (my correction).

False bottom is the piece that creates a single "floor" for the trunk. You can remove it and it exposes a sub-trunk where you can store additional items. Here is an image of the trunk piece, it is the lighter carpet item in the image (this is an older S model).
Thanks for the details. Added to the Wiki - Mega-consolidated delivery quality issues thread
 
I’ve had the car for a week and I don’t care for the yoke. I find myself grasping for parts of the “wheel” that aren’t there. Perhaps at 59 I’m too old to learn a new trick.
I’ve got 16 years on you and I’m finally getting accustomed to it after about 400 miles of mostly in town driving. For me the turn signals and horn are the biggest issues.
 
Does anyone have a link to one of the inspection lists I've seen over the last few weeks? Going to need one tomorrow. 😍😍😍
If you are looking for more of a checklist, here is what I consolidated in preparation for whenever mine is delivered. This is a hodgepodge of several checklists to what makes sense. It will be in addition to Marc's thread. But honestly, do what makes sense for you. If you attempt to do both of these, you might be there all night long.

Delivery checklist


A. Verify pre-delivery vehicle records
  • Check for the correct full name and address on your paperwork.
  • Confirm the vehicle’s VIN matches your paperwork.
  • Bring written or digital proof of your down payment having been made and the final payment details
  • Bring a printed insurance card.
B. Exterior inspection
  • Inspect body exterior paint for defects.
  • Inspect vehicle underside (front and rear) for signs of scraping, or damage.
  • Check for any obvious body panel misalignment, or gaps. Especially the frunk gap, charge port, front and rear lights flush with hood/panels, glass roof panels aligned, no leaks.
  • Inspect wheel rims for damage, and that all 4 valve stem covers on tires.
  • Inspect all glass for signs of distortion, scratches, or cracks.
  • Check for proper windshield and windshield trim installation.
  • Inspect all edges of the roof glass panel and rear window.
  • Test all doors to ensure they open and close without unreasonable effort or sound. Check paint in areas such as door hinges, that are not visible when doors are closed.
  • Test opening and closing of the trunk with auto-close button. The door should latch and seal automatically.
  • Test opening and closing of the frunk. Check paint in areas that are not visible when frunk and trunk are closed.
  • Check for the towing eye in the frunk, and that it can be easily removed.
  • Ensure door windows auto-close completely when doors are closed.
  • Check all front and rear exterior lights for signs of internal condensation.
  • With all doors open, inspect the weather seals around door gaps and windows. NOTE: Some deliveries have reported seals being “overlapped” incorrectly. This is easily fixed by hand in a few seconds, but worth noting.
  • Check the wheel well flaps are in place
C. In the driver seat
  • Check for any error messages on the display screen.
  • Tap the drawing to access the Sketch Pad. Leave the Sketch Pad up for a minute to make sure there are no phantom touches happening on the display.
  • Gently test the driver and passenger door emergency release.
  • Check all 4 windows to ensure they open and close properly.
  • Make sure AC/Heat works at full power without strange noises.
  • Test the sound system to ensure all speakers are working (move fade/balance to all four points to verify)
  • Test the yoke position controls to ensure proper operation.
  • Press the horn button of the yoke to make sure the vehicle’s horn works.
  • Check windshield for distorted view.
  • Test the windshield wipers.
  • Test the rearview camera.
  • Check side mirrors for proper operation of folding and position adjustment (minimal noise).
  • Check sun-visor operation and mirror condition.
  • Check the rearview mirror for any warping or distortion.
  • Check the yoke for vein and each num to see if the stitching is coming off
D. Interior inspection
  • Inspect interior seat upholstery, door surfaces, dash, liner & carpets (including rear seats, frunk, and trunk).
  • Check the windshield and windows for ripples in the glass.
  • Check left and right clothing hook operation.
  • Check all seat belts for proper operation.
  • Both front seats don’t squeak when moving (check all directions of motion).
  • Check the rear seats for proper fold-down operation.
  • Try to lift the bottom of the back seat to ensure it is securely attached to its base.
E. Connectivity inspection
  • Test connectivity in all USB ports (1 USB-A/1 USB-C in the front, 2 USB-C in the rear).
  • Check 12 volt DC receptacle has power.
  • Test connectivity of wireless phone charger.
  • Music streaming & phone streaming work, radio reception is good.
  • Test both key cards to ensure they work on B-pillar. Keep one key card on your person in case the phone app does not operate properly.
  • Pair your smartphone to your vehicle over Bluetooth. Check functions work (unlock, precondition, etc)
F. Lighting inspection
  • Vanity mirror lights, Front overhead driver & passenger lights.
  • Rear overhead left & right side lights.
  • Driver & passenger foot wells, Driver & passenger door pockets
  • Rear left & right door pockets.
  • Driver & passenger door puddle lights.
  • Console middle compartment light, Console rear compartment light.
  • All door latch button lights, All door window button lights.
  • Steering wheel control lights.
  • Glovebox light (check glovebox opening and closing).
  • Frunk light.
  • Trunk lights (2).
  • Fog lights.
  • Headlights (low & high-beam).
  • Front park lights.
  • Front turn signal lights, Left & right side turn signal lights.
  • Rear running lights.
  • Brake lights.
G. Inspect charging ability
  • Check the charge port door for proper operation and alignment.
  • Check charge port indicator light.
  • Ensure the vehicle will accept a charge.
  • Check the mobile charging kit with cable. Test it to ensure it works and each connector charge, latch, unlatch
  • J1772 adapter.
  • NEMA 5–15 120v adapter.
  • Test supercharger on site.
H. Final items
  • Ask your delivery specialist to make sure that your car is marked as DELIVERED in Tesla’s network. There have been reports of cars being delivered and the phone app doesn’t allow log in the following day.
  • Make sure you have copies of all paperwork necessary for good documentation of your purchase, including a copy of your signed purchase agreement. If your delivery specialist suggests that you can get your documents electronically on your Tesla account, ask for paper copies you can take with you anyway.
 
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My pre-refresh 2021 X has ambient lighting. Would be surprised if that got deleted from the refresh...
Beyond just what is is under the door arm rests? There was speculation about rope lighting along the dash which never came true. Never thought the X had the dash lighting since it shared the parts with the S. Which I assume is still the case for the refresh.
 
Mostly for looks but their is functionality for the 21". They will handle better with the shorter/stiffer sidewalls. Driven over 7k miles through 12 states and no issues with the 21" on potholes, etc. These are hoss boat anchors.

Worth the cost of a few miles to me.
no issues with the potholes on 21" is likely because your front tires now have a load rating of 101, not the old 96 on the pre refresh 21s...
 
If you are looking for more of a checklist, here is what I consolidated in preparation for whenever mine is delivered. This is a hodgepodge of several checklists to what makes sense. It will be in addition to Marc's thread. But honestly, do what makes sense for you. If you attempt to do both of these, you might be there all night long.
If I perform this step:
  • Press the center of the steering wheel to make sure the vehicle’s horn works.
Then I am going to be there for a long time. 🤣
 
TSportline wheels are so overpriced.

Be careful ! the front and rear wheels have different dimensions (the Plaid ones and it could be the same thing for the LR ones).
Those Tsportline are not so "extraordinary" to pay so much for them.
The problem is to find good quality ones strong enough to resist to the car's weight and the very big torque...Chinese wheels to forget absolutely and design that looks strong to choose if you go to cast wheels, lighter design possible with at least flowforming system wheels are the tips to be as much quiet as possible for the price paid.
Forged wheels have no limit regarding the prices, they are mainly very light for their sizes but don't imagine that they are safe from problems caused by bad roads or potholes: My son has 21' HRE rims on his P100D and on 4 rims 2 had to be rectified because they were no longer rounds (no visible shocks on them) and our roads over here are goods to very goods !!... Nothing is simple 🤔

Someone said that TSportline may come out with a less expensive wheel. The 19's on the pre-refresh, with tires, are $3,300. That's reasonable. The new ones they just listed on their site for the refresh at $5,700 and simply too much for me.

And yes, the wheel sizes are the same on the Plaid and LR