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P3D- is absolutely ridiculous!

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Just took delivery of the P3D- and I have to say it is an absolute blast!!! I loved the RWD LR model I had before, but this is on a whole new level of utter ridiculousness (in a good way).

The sheer brutal, violent acceleration of the P3D- is no joke. The RWD has a nice punch, but the P3D is like a punch to the throat and stomach. It’s so quick.

If you’re on the fence, go for it. It’s a great value (relatively speaking of course). To me, this is the best Tesla Model 3 configuration available, and it’s not even close. For under 50K you can get a car that does 0-60 in 3 seconds and change, while retaining good ride quality and excellent range thanks to the Aero wheels.

I won’t lie, I wasn’t a fan of the Aeros at all, and it was one of the main reasons why I was considering the PUP, but I suggest just getting over it or buying an extra set of wheels, or removing the covers and getting the wheel cap kit. The wheels make a huge difference in range, ride quality, and overall cost savings (no bent rims, Uber-expensive rubber, etc).

One of my favorite things about this config is just how much of a sleeper it is. This is the definition of a sleeper car, and I love that. It’s relatively low key, (well, as low key as you can be in a Model 3) which is my preference. It’s so unassuming, outside of the small Dual Motor badge with the red underline. It lends a subtle hint as to what this thing is capable of, but it’s otherwise completely unassuming. But like others have said, those who know, know. And that folks is why the P3D- is the best Tesla vehicle configuration in my opinion.
I have a dual motor one now. I have pondered the idea of getting another but this time P3D- and make it identical to the car I have now. Maybe nobody would notice?
 
I have an inventory P3- with a deposit on it, just waiting for finance to clear.

It has 18" aeros, can I swap to 19" before taking delivery, or will they have to find me a different car?

Also how much efficiency difference between 18 and 19" wheels?

I doubt Tesla will swap it. Won’t hurt to ask though. Don’t be upset if they say no. You can swap yourself for close to the same cost Tesla would upgrade. It’s a hassle but you have a wider set of options on tires.

Personally I think Aero’s are ugly, covers or no covers. And the average person thinks so too. I understand why Tesla has them. They can be more tolerable on some colors than others. I think they looked the worst on Midnight Silver because that is basically their color (cover on or off). Some folks like wheels to match body color, I don’t. Not sure how the Aero rim would look in the same silver as the OEM 19”.

If you want a stealthy look Aero’s will do that for you. About as boring / blending in as nothing special as you can get.

BTW I think you get the best tire choices on 19”. The high Load Rating recommendation by Tesla on 18” trims your choices down. Where it does not on 19”. No BridgeStone QuietTrack or Pirelli P7+ for 18” that meet specs.
 
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For those that appear to be going from SR+ and LR AWD to the P3D- and P3D+, how are you guys going about it? I'm one of those unfortunate souls that rushed into the SR+ to squeeze out the bigger tax credit and then immediately had regret when the price drop was announced (and subsequently more regret when the P3D- became available).

Thankfully, I've only driven my SR+ so it hasn't been ruined for me but I'd be lying if I said I wasn't already eyeing a chance to right the wrong in the near future. I've seen the trade-in values leave a lot to be desired so it caught me off guard to see so many people talk about being on their 2nd M3 already.

I love my SR+ as it checked every box for me. I also bought mine right before the price decrease but honestly I didn’t care. It happens and will continue to happen. I would rather be driving the car vs waiting for a better deal. At the time the SR+ was the best deal in my opinion.

I had a P90 X as a loaner and couldn’t believe the power. When I heard about the P3- I couldn’t pass it up for the price.

Our original plan was to wait for the Y for my wife but she was good with driving the SR+. Once the Y comes out and is proven, we will get the Y and sell/trade the SR+.

My delivery appointment is tomorrow and I can’t wait to drive it. If it’s anything like that 2016 model x loaner, I think the P3- is the best deal now.

Will report back tomorrow night!!
 
19's won't have "Much better" efficiency than the 20" PUPs. A few percent maybe.


I'm at 267 wh/mi lifetime, at 25,000 miles.

4200 of those miles are with 19s on. My efficiency with those is 271 wh/mi. I took a 1.4% range hit with the bigger wheels. To be fair, of that 4200 miles, I had a 1200 mile round trip on the highway, so my efficiency wasn't that great.

Also, when the tires were brand new in that first week, there was a little more rolling resistance than normal. My consumption was over 300....then it leveled off.
 
Yes, I ordered wheels from service center. To many folks wanted to much money for them and they mostly came with the Continental Tires I didn't want any way. I looked and looked on ebay and never saw any "new" 19" come up. Many refurbs or Plasti Dipped ones. I think Service Center will ship them to your home if you want. Might cost extra though. My Service center is 40 minutes away and had 3 in stock and got the 4th one in 2 days or so. Center caps are extra (I think $15/each). You can use your original lug


19’s have nothing to do with it.

It’s the rubber. I agree Continental tires won’t do much better than the OEM 20” tire. But a 700 Tread wear tire will do a lot better than even the Primacy’s (a 500 Tread wear tire).

The difference in efficiencies is not the rim size. It’s the rubber compound you choose. 20” OEM tires a very soft, inefficient sticky tires.

The trade off is grip vs efficiency. I chose efficiency.

This is since installing 19”. AWD Performance with AC. Exactly what I was getting with Aero’s.

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I would be angry driving behind you in MA traffic.
 
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Can’t wait to pick up mine tomorrow! Midnight silver and will be taking wheel covers off. There are lots still out there, work with an advisor who knows their stuff. Dyllan in St. Louis was great.

I am one of the ones who wasn’t considering a 3 until this came out, was planning on a used P85D or P90D model S.
Congrats, the team at Chesterfield is great.
 
I would be angry driving behind you in MA traffic.

I almost never drive in traffic, so you would never see me. I avoid traffic like the plaque. I travel to lakes region every weekend. We leave 8-9PM to avoid traffic Friday night to head up and Sunday night to return. On my commute, I might see 5 cars, no traffic lights, no highway, just 3 stop signs and no HVAC because it's so slow I can have windows open because car is in garage overnight. If I had a "normal" commute (e.g. some highway, some traffic), I'd probaly be more like 250 wh/mi. But my short commute (which 50 miles total a week) averages under 200 wh/mi, some days I hit 180 wh/mi round trip, so that brings the total average down a bit.
 
I think Elon called it a P3+. "D" is redundant since all Performance Teslas have been dual motor. So I really am starting to prefer P3+ and P3-.
It's because of the P100Ds and our badging explicitly references dual motor.

Honestly it's Tesla's fault for not giving us easy to parse trim names. 328/335/M3 RS/SS GT/Cobra Model 3/Model 3 Dual Motor/Model 3 Dual Motor Performance (rolls right off the tongue). ;)

Yes, I ordered wheels from service center. To many folks wanted to much money for them and they mostly came with the Continental Tires I didn't want any way. I looked and looked on ebay and never saw any "new" 19" come up. Many refurbs or Plasti Dipped ones. I think Service Center will ship them to your home if you want. Might cost extra though. My Service center is 40 minutes away and had 3 in stock and got the 4th one in 2 days or so. Center caps are extra (I think $15/each). You can use your original lug


19’s have nothing to do with it.
Surely smaller/lighter wheels will have some impact on efficiency. Reducing weight in a wheel has an outsized impact on things like acceleration.
 
Can you confirm the wheel size and ground clearance for this configuration? I just had someone try their M3 RWD and it’s just too close for comfort on my sloped driveway. Does having 19” wheels on the performance model increase clearance or not really.
Thanks, and have fun with your ride!
 
Can you confirm the wheel size and ground clearance for this configuration? I just had someone try their M3 RWD and it’s just too close for comfort on my sloped driveway. Does having 19” wheels on the performance model increase clearance or not really.
Thanks, and have fun with your ride!

Wheel size doesn't change clearance as the large the wheel, the shorter the side wall of the tire. If you're talking about suspension height, the P3D- is not any lower, but the P3D with PUP does have a slightly lower stance.
 
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Wheel size doesn't change clearance as the large the wheel, the shorter the side wall of the tire. If you're talking about suspension height, the P3D- is not any lower, but the P3D with PUP does have a slightly lower stance.

Ok, thanks for the reply. That was my initial guess. Now to see if I can find the Model S Raven maximum ground clearance. Can't seem to locate that anywhere online. My BMW is around 6 1/4" I believe. So I need at least that. Or... I move, ha.
 
Ok, thanks for the reply. That was my initial guess. Now to see if I can find the Model S Raven maximum ground clearance. Can't seem to locate that anywhere online. My BMW is around 6 1/4" I believe. So I need at least that. Or... I move, ha.

Well height alone isn't the factor to consider. Where was it getting close to scraping? Because if it's the bumper, than the longer the distance of bumper from wheel will require higher clearance. Say, if your BMW has 3ft from wheel to front of car, and with 6.25" clearance being enough, if the model S has less clearance, but only has say 2.5ft from wheel to the front of the car, it may still be just fine.

Same applies to if you need the clearance in the middle of the car. If the distance between rear and front wheels is shorter than your BMW, the less clearance you'll need, and vice versa.
 
It's because of the P100Ds and our badging explicitly references dual motor.

Honestly it's Tesla's fault for not giving us easy to parse trim names. 328/335/M3 RS/SS GT/Cobra Model 3/Model 3 Dual Motor/Model 3 Dual Motor Performance (rolls right off the tongue). ;)


Surely smaller/lighter wheels will have some impact on efficiency. Reducing weight in a wheel has an outsized impact on things like acceleration.

My wheels (with tire) are heavier and no aero covers. Yet the tires I chose made up for the difference.

Perhaps around town weight makes more difference. But my wh/mi around town is insanely good. Often as low as 180 wh/mi.

Cruising on the highway the weight of the wheel (and tire) will have less impact. And most people are concerned with highway efficiency.

Also people keep talking about smaller lighter wheels but don’t include the added weight for the tires taller sidewall. Also smaller rims need higher load range (heavier) tires.

Also where the added weight is, matters. Is the weight change towards the perimeter or the center. The tire weight probably has more impact than the wheel. In the end I think it makes very little difference (in the range differences we are talking e.g. 5 lbs).