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Software update 2018.6.1

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There are some videos out there showing when the ultrasonics detect an object, it will prevent a lane change. Been that way for a while. It doesn't seem like either side cam is used. But, personally I think there is also something going on with at least the forward looking camera(s). Because when I am coming up on a car in the adjacent lane and engage the blinker, it will show that car in the other lane in IC, and seems to use that as a decision factor for the lane change.
Agreed
 
Sorry für going offtopic again.
I know you can

1) reset the MCU with both scroll wheels,
2) reset the ICU with the two to buttons,
3) reset the vehicle by cutting power through the menu.

Does pressing the brake when doing 1) have a documented difference from not pressing the brake?
Bruce may get pissed. :D But no. There is no evidence of the brake pedal doing anything ‘added’. And I do not care that even SC people say so. If you think it does, show me proof. The brake wakes it up but does nothing added when rebooting parts of the system.

The only other ‘reboot’ is pulling power totally under ‘the hood’ (lol) which they had to do to reset my car when 2017.42 bricked it.
 
Bruce may get pissed. :D But no. There is no evidence of the brake pedal doing anything ‘added’. And I do not care that even SC people say so. If you think it does, show me proof. The brake wakes it up but does nothing added when rebooting parts of the system.

The only other ‘reboot’ is pulling power totally under ‘the hood’ (lol) which they had to do to reset my car when 2017.42 bricked it.

Tesla support over the phone once told me that I had to stop the car, press the brake and the scroll wheels until the T logo appeared, then release all 3.
I cannot say whether this is different to simply holding both scroll wheels. Sadly, the 'not knowing' means that I now do all my resets using the brake pedal. Grrrr, I wish we could know for sure if this was real.
 
Sorry für going offtopic again.
I know you can

1) reset the MCU with both scroll wheels,
2) reset the ICU with the two to buttons,
3) reset the vehicle by cutting power through the menu.

Does pressing the brake when doing 1) have a documented difference from not pressing the brake?
If you power off the car (i.e. 3 above) why would you need to do 1 and 2? Does 1 and 2 clear some memory that a power off of the car not do on startup?
 
Sorry für going offtopic again.
I know you can

1) reset the MCU with both scroll wheels,
2) reset the ICU with the two to buttons,
3) reset the vehicle by cutting power through the menu.

Does pressing the brake when doing 1) have a documented difference from not pressing the brake?

This is a dumb question, but since I have only done (1), how do you power the car back on if you power it off thru the menu? I kind of remember seeing the power off button on the menu interface and I remember wondering how am I going to turn it back on? :p I never pressed it. Or does it only power off some of the car and left the main computer and screen powered? Probably should just read the manual right? :p
 
This is a dumb question, but since I have only done (1), how do you power the car back on if you power it off thru the menu? I kind of remember seeing the power off button on the menu interface and I remember wondering how am I going to turn it back on? :p I never pressed it. Or does it only power off some of the car and left the main computer and screen powered? Probably should just read the manual right? :p
1 & 2 are reboots and they start up automatically. For 3 press the brake pedal to start the car as normal as I recall.
 
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Thread is long and I lost patience reading all the way through.

I *finally* got 2018.6.1 641efac up from 2017.50.3. My previous two software updates failed (one was 2018.X, can't remember version and the other was 2018.6.1). I contacted the tech support line for another issue and during the call they noted that in both failures the download failed and said it would try again eventually. The next day I had a VM from my local service center saying they had pushed the update to my car again and the tech had "monitored and confirmed the staging" and voila it updated successfully. Two takeaways: 1) You definitely don't need to go to the SC to get an update anymore and 2) there is something about downloading/staging that can be monitored or effected remotely that fixed whatever issue my car was having.

As for the update (on which I have only 1 trip of ~10 miles): only thing I noticed is my car will not allow auto steer (but adaptive cruise works). Perhaps my cameras are recalibrating?
 
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Thread is long and I lost patience reading all the way through.

I *finally* got 2018.6.1 641efac up from 2017.50.3. My previous two software updates failed (one was 2018.X, can't remember version and the other was 2018.6.1). I contacted the tech support line for another issue and during the call they noted that in both failures the download failed and said it would try again eventually. The next day I had a VM from my local service center saying they had pushed the update to my car again and the tech had "monitored and confirmed the staging" and voila it updated successfully. Two takeaways: 1) You definitely don't need to go to the SC to get an update anymore and 2) there is something about downloading/staging that can be monitored or effected remotely that fixed whatever issue my car was having.

As for the update (on which I have only 1 trip of ~10 miles): only thing I noticed is my car will not allow auto steer (but adaptive cruise works). Perhaps my cameras are recalibrating?
How is your GPS Location? Do you see your car in the correct location on the Map? Do you see the Speed Limit Sign? Loosing GPS Location can cause this problem.
 
Thread is long and I lost patience reading all the way through.

I *finally* got 2018.6.1 641efac up from 2017.50.3. My previous two software updates failed (one was 2018.X, can't remember version and the other was 2018.6.1). I contacted the tech support line for another issue and during the call they noted that in both failures the download failed and said it would try again eventually. The next day I had a VM from my local service center saying they had pushed the update to my car again and the tech had "monitored and confirmed the staging" and voila it updated successfully. Two takeaways: 1) You definitely don't need to go to the SC to get an update anymore and 2) there is something about downloading/staging that can be monitored or effected remotely that fixed whatever issue my car was having.

As for the update (on which I have only 1 trip of ~10 miles): only thing I noticed is my car will not allow auto steer (but adaptive cruise works). Perhaps my cameras are recalibrating?
I *believe* the only reason to 'go to the SC' in the past was to clear a broken download? Not one that needed to be 'redone' but one that was stuck and they had to actually clear something. Like plug in hardware to the port (under the MCU) and access it manually that way.

To resend an update, yep, that is all remote, and Support (Fremont, wherever) or the SC can do that.
 
I *believe* the only reason to 'go to the SC' in the past was to clear a broken download? Not one that needed to be 'redone' but one that was stuck and they had to actually clear something. Like plug in hardware to the port (under the MCU) and access it manually that way.

To resend an update, yep, that is all remote, and Support (Fremont, wherever) or the SC can do that.

I would agree. Seems like "anyone" at Tesla can remotely push an update that causes your car to go grab it over LTE immediately. They can also all remotely check logs to see if your car has failed to update in the past. However, a lot of SC's will "lie" and tell you they can't push an update to your car if that's the sole request you made. That I presume is simply to reduce customer service overhead.

There also seems to be another, more foolproof software updating mechanism that involves hooking up a cable to your car and doing a wired update. That requires physical presence of a service center or ranger.
 
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I do not understand your question. However, you link was helpful with the four finger deep reset.
Lol, it was just as people were saying pressing the break didn’t do anything these state to keep foot on the break or is it just the holding foot on the break just does the same as it having foot on the break but then pressing the brake a bit later on?
 
Lol, it was just as people were saying pressing the break didn’t do anything these state to keep foot on the break or is it just the holding foot on the break just does the same as it having foot on the break but then pressing the brake a bit later on?
Good grief. I want proof that number 3 on that site does anything except make you feel better.

Again, there are three things you can do, and I've been through them over the phone with Tesla Support (from HQ) when 2017.42 bricked my (AP 2.5) car. MCU reset, IC reset, and turn the car off from the menu (and wait three minutes to be sure power has drained). That's all *we* can do. The brake pedal wakes it, if it can.

That site sounds like Tesla told someone to hold all four buttons down. I highly doubt it. But I've heard weirder stuff from an SC. I really doubt headquarters would have told anyone that.

Once I had a shutdown that the brake pedal couldn't wake it up from. It's good to recall that sometimes the app can wake it up (I used Remote S to do this, the regular app should be able to do it, also).

The SC has to pull the power to do a deeper reset when it's 'more dead'.

I've love to hear there are 'other reset methods'. But everything I've seen in two years here says the brake pedal reset and four buttons don't do anything, sorry to say. (Well, the four buttons do the same as they always do, reboot both screens. But I don't see the point.)
 
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Once I had a shutdown that the brake pedal couldn't wake it up from. It's good to recall that sometimes the app can wake it up (I used Remote S to do this, the regular app should be able to do it, also).

FYI, I actually see this more often than not. If I actually wait 3 minutes after a poweroff, the brake doesn't wake the car up. However, opening / closing a front door will seem to reliably wake the car up.
 
FYI, I actually see this more often than not. If I actually wait 3 minutes after a poweroff, the brake doesn't wake the car up. However, opening / closing a front door will seem to reliably wake the car up.
I was actually on hold for Tesla HQ Roadside thinking, crap, need to be flatbed'd again, and tried the app, and it worked. :D (Needless to say, the door did not.)

The car didn't move again until I got 2017.42.1.
 
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I just got 2018.6.1 from 2018.2. Actually pretty surprised. After all this time and the reported bugs I was really okay with waiting for 2018.8 or ?. Next build should be out soon I would expect. Seems like that are really trying to get almost everyone on 2018.6.1. TeslaFI is showing 76.2%.
 
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