what do you mean you used your original screen???? They took the LCD out of the MCU frame and re-used it in an MCU2 unit that came without an LCD? I call BS, or, they gave you someone else’s broken MCU2 that needed a screen.
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Tesla infotainment system upgradeable from MCU1 to MCU2
- Thread starter MurrayJimW
- Start date
ucmndd
Well-Known Member
Sorry if this has been answered, I’ve only been sort of following this thread lately.
I notice the infotainment upgrade webpage no longer makes mention of prioritizing or requiring the AP3 hardware to get MCU2. It just says “vehicles with autopilot computer 2.0 - scheduling now”.
Are they scheduling these now for folks that didn’t buy FSD? I have EAP and AP 2.0 and no real interest in paying another $3k+ for HW3. But may be tempted into an MCU upgrade.
I notice the infotainment upgrade webpage no longer makes mention of prioritizing or requiring the AP3 hardware to get MCU2. It just says “vehicles with autopilot computer 2.0 - scheduling now”.
Are they scheduling these now for folks that didn’t buy FSD? I have EAP and AP 2.0 and no real interest in paying another $3k+ for HW3. But may be tempted into an MCU upgrade.
You can get it and they even are throwing in hw3 for free for some stupid reason. Might as well go now before they sort that out.
ucmndd
Well-Known Member
Why the screens are compatible between the two. (And the rumors are that there is a screen shortage right now.) There is even different part number for without a screen.
Actually its been confirmed for at least two weeks that you can get the option of keeping your old LCD screen and saving $250 off the $2500 cost for the MCU2 upgrade. There is even a part number for the kit without a screen (see @scottf200's post on the previous page). This is not BS just because you were not aware of it....
quickstrike12
Member
The day of the appointment I was given the choice of waiting for a “complete kit” with new screen and all but he couldn’t confidently say when they would be able to get it OR I could simply reuse my existing touchscreen and save the 250 bucks. ive never had any issues with yellowing or problems so I said why not.
I do wonder how that affects the warranty now tho? I’m betting they would honor a problem with the screen itself down the road.
Either way I’m satisfied
I do wonder how that affects the warranty now tho? I’m betting they would honor a problem with the screen itself down the road.
Either way I’m satisfied
eJonny
Member
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
Back on Post #4926 of this thread, I had this idea. I thought it would be simple. I would open up my car’s dash, remove the MCU and unplug the two USB cables going into the back. I’d add an 18” Male/Female USB Type-A cables and put the MCU back. Well, I did and I didn’t. I wanted to give you guy and update. I have some tweaking to do so I like how it looks. But this is 98% of it.
It was my intent to intercept my USB signal/cable running to the back of the center console and insert a couple of USB 4 port hubs and continue the signal on to the back of the center console. Sounds easy.
I ordered parts, some turned out to be wrong. I need different cables and an adapters. Here’s what works.
To try and make the explanation simpler, I am going to name my cables.
Old USB cables: Original cables plugging into and running from back of the MCU to the back of the center console under the armrest.
Mini to USB Female: USB Mini Male to USB Type-A Female
Short USB-C: USB Type-A Male to USB-C Male.
Mini Adapter: USB Type-A to USB Mini Female Adapter/converter
18” MF Cable: USB Type-A Male/Female extension cable 18” long
I unplugged the Old USB cables. These turned out to be USB Mini connectors. MCU is female, cable end is male Mini. I had a couple of male Mini to USB type A male adapters. Plugged those in, then used two 18” MF cables and threaded these to the bottom of the MCU to the cubby opening. Instead of this way, I recommend using a simpler method. Use two Mini to USB Female cable. They plugs directly into the MCU and a female end is ready for the male connector of USB hubs.
First hub: I use one of the two 18” cables from the back of the MCU and plug the first hub into it. I moved the Old USB cables down to the cubby opening. These are going to be plugged into one of the two new hubs. But first, I need two Mini Adapters so I can plug each of the Old USB cables into a hubs. This will send the USB signal back to the center console USB ports. I have a SSD in the glove box for my TeslaCam and Sentry, so I plug Short USB-C cable into the hub and the SSD enclosure.
The first hub under the cubby is powering the USB ports under the armrest and powering my SSD in the glove box. I have one left over USB port on the first hub.
Second hub: The center console has an opening, small hole at the end under the cubby. I threaded third 18” MF cable through the hole and out of the console up under the cubby opening. I plugged it into the other 18” MF cables coming down from the back of the MCU. Inside the center console, I plugged the second hub into the new cable. Now I have four USB ports from the MCU inside the center console for whatever I need, such as a wireless charger and Alexa Echo Auto device.
I used different hubs to make it simple to recognize which cable went to a hub. Here’s a list of the different items I used. I do not receive compensation for links to Amazon. These are examples and pictures at the links.
# 1) Mini to USB Female: USB Mini Male to USB Type-A Female
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com...i+to+usb+type+a+female&qid=1593312715&sr=8-10
# 2) Mini Adapter: USB Type-A to USB Mini Female Adapter/converter
https://www.amazon.com/Electop-Pack...ni+to+usb+type+a+female&qid=1593312909&sr=8-2
# 3) 18” MF Cable: USB Type-A Male/Female extension cable 18” long
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JSI12XI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
# 4) Short USB-C: USB Type-A Male to USB-C Male.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K24TKL6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
# 5) USB 3.0 4-port hub
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0773HSCBW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
# 6) USB 3.0 4-port hub
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076Q43SPC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
#7) 2-Port Dual USB Male to Female Flush Mount
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MY1WDIU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I am thinking of adding this #7) flush mount two-port adapter if I can find a suitable place so it’s convenient. It will plug into one of the hubs.
You don’t have to use a SSD for TeslaCam/Sentry. You could route the USB cable to the glove box and plug a flash drive or SSD media adapter there. The bonus security of hiding it in the glove box is, you can leave an old or small flash drive in the rear USB ports under the armrest for decoys. Leaving something for someone to find easily increases the security of the one in the glove box.
If you wanted to do this project but didn’t want to remove your MCU, the # 1) Mini to USB Female cables, could be added to the car while the techs are performing the MCU2 upgrade or MCU1 replacement.
You would need to procure the cables and have them available when you take your car in to the SC. I would recommend leaving the cables readily available with special instructions as to what you want the techs to do, i.e., remove the two USB cables and insert these #1 Mini to USB Female cables and route your Old USB cables down to the bottom behind the cubby. Donuts or pastries would help and hope for the best.
Here's the cable end that was plugged into the back of the MCU. "Surprise - I am USB Mini not USB Type-A"
It was my intent to intercept my USB signal/cable running to the back of the center console and insert a couple of USB 4 port hubs and continue the signal on to the back of the center console. Sounds easy.
I ordered parts, some turned out to be wrong. I need different cables and an adapters. Here’s what works.
To try and make the explanation simpler, I am going to name my cables.
Old USB cables: Original cables plugging into and running from back of the MCU to the back of the center console under the armrest.
Mini to USB Female: USB Mini Male to USB Type-A Female
Short USB-C: USB Type-A Male to USB-C Male.
Mini Adapter: USB Type-A to USB Mini Female Adapter/converter
18” MF Cable: USB Type-A Male/Female extension cable 18” long
I unplugged the Old USB cables. These turned out to be USB Mini connectors. MCU is female, cable end is male Mini. I had a couple of male Mini to USB type A male adapters. Plugged those in, then used two 18” MF cables and threaded these to the bottom of the MCU to the cubby opening. Instead of this way, I recommend using a simpler method. Use two Mini to USB Female cable. They plugs directly into the MCU and a female end is ready for the male connector of USB hubs.
First hub: I use one of the two 18” cables from the back of the MCU and plug the first hub into it. I moved the Old USB cables down to the cubby opening. These are going to be plugged into one of the two new hubs. But first, I need two Mini Adapters so I can plug each of the Old USB cables into a hubs. This will send the USB signal back to the center console USB ports. I have a SSD in the glove box for my TeslaCam and Sentry, so I plug Short USB-C cable into the hub and the SSD enclosure.
The first hub under the cubby is powering the USB ports under the armrest and powering my SSD in the glove box. I have one left over USB port on the first hub.
Second hub: The center console has an opening, small hole at the end under the cubby. I threaded third 18” MF cable through the hole and out of the console up under the cubby opening. I plugged it into the other 18” MF cables coming down from the back of the MCU. Inside the center console, I plugged the second hub into the new cable. Now I have four USB ports from the MCU inside the center console for whatever I need, such as a wireless charger and Alexa Echo Auto device.
I used different hubs to make it simple to recognize which cable went to a hub. Here’s a list of the different items I used. I do not receive compensation for links to Amazon. These are examples and pictures at the links.
# 1) Mini to USB Female: USB Mini Male to USB Type-A Female
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com...i+to+usb+type+a+female&qid=1593312715&sr=8-10
# 2) Mini Adapter: USB Type-A to USB Mini Female Adapter/converter
https://www.amazon.com/Electop-Pack...ni+to+usb+type+a+female&qid=1593312909&sr=8-2
# 3) 18” MF Cable: USB Type-A Male/Female extension cable 18” long
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JSI12XI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
# 4) Short USB-C: USB Type-A Male to USB-C Male.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K24TKL6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
# 5) USB 3.0 4-port hub
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0773HSCBW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
# 6) USB 3.0 4-port hub
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076Q43SPC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
#7) 2-Port Dual USB Male to Female Flush Mount
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MY1WDIU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I am thinking of adding this #7) flush mount two-port adapter if I can find a suitable place so it’s convenient. It will plug into one of the hubs.
You don’t have to use a SSD for TeslaCam/Sentry. You could route the USB cable to the glove box and plug a flash drive or SSD media adapter there. The bonus security of hiding it in the glove box is, you can leave an old or small flash drive in the rear USB ports under the armrest for decoys. Leaving something for someone to find easily increases the security of the one in the glove box.
If you wanted to do this project but didn’t want to remove your MCU, the # 1) Mini to USB Female cables, could be added to the car while the techs are performing the MCU2 upgrade or MCU1 replacement.
You would need to procure the cables and have them available when you take your car in to the SC. I would recommend leaving the cables readily available with special instructions as to what you want the techs to do, i.e., remove the two USB cables and insert these #1 Mini to USB Female cables and route your Old USB cables down to the bottom behind the cubby. Donuts or pastries would help and hope for the best.
Here's the cable end that was plugged into the back of the MCU. "Surprise - I am USB Mini not USB Type-A"
PatrickCH4313
Member
No, hw3 just starting but mcu2 parts in short supply.
Successful upgrade done this past Thursday.
MX AP2.5. Original appointment 5/16 pushed back to 6/25. Install completed but was also told that new screens were in short supply and they would complete using my existing one for -$250 if I agreed. I approved and have very happy since. Performance of the screen is night and day. Happy customer here.
MX AP2.5. Original appointment 5/16 pushed back to 6/25. Install completed but was also told that new screens were in short supply and they would complete using my existing one for -$250 if I agreed. I approved and have very happy since. Performance of the screen is night and day. Happy customer here.
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
Has anyone that agreed to Tesla using their old screen confirmed if Tesla will extend the new MCU's 4 year warranty to cover the screen too? That screen replaced later separately for something such as bubbles would cost for $1,000 parts alone. Asks service.
This is a very very long thread, and this may have already been asked and answered, but here goes. I just got an email from Tesla, until July 1 I can upgrade EAP to FSD for $3k. Does that mean I get MCU upgrade or any other hardware upgrade included in that price? I have a mid-2017 MS, MCU1, AP 2.0. I had no intention of ever upgrading but maybe for new hardware included...
You would get the AP3 computer but not MCU2. And you really would want MCU2.
Silicon Desert
Well-Known Member
yes agree, and you know, but sounds like he may not know that he will have to spend an additional $2500 for the MCU2.
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
@MP3Mike
Mike, really not enough reallys. @Reefdiver, you really really really really really want MCU2.
I have MCU upgrade scheduled for the 8th and they ordered the part # without the screen so I will ask the SC when they send the invoice. I'm not sure I will approve the invoice if they are not replacing it as it already has a yellow band around. I know that can be fixed but how long does that last? I definitely will not if the screen isn't included in the 4 year warranty of the replacement.
$250 isn't enough of a discount for that on a $2500 upgrade IMO.....
FlatSix911
Porsche 918 Hybrid
I have AP1 and MCU1 and the screen is peeling. Also not sure how much longer thr flash chip will last. I was wondering if anyone got their MC1 upgraded to MC2 with AP1? I would love to finally be able to use the browser and play some games while waiting to supercharge. Also the map loading would make it much more usable. Also it would hopefully fix my screen yellowing and peeling issue. I think that is worth the $2500 upgrade cost.
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