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Tesla Model 3 in Australia

Chuq

Active Member
Jan 1, 2015
3,525
4,298
Hobart, Tasmania, Australia
Another price drop! $3k for the SR+, a bit more for the others.

1625876709783.png


This means in NSW, the price has dropped $12.5k since March! (April price drop $4k, stamp duty ~$2.5k, rebate $3k, July price drop $3k)

In other states with stamp duty rebates (Tas/ACT) it's about $9.5k, in other states its a $7k drop.

This also means all colour options come under the rebate amount.

Hopefully this price drop means they're planning to introduce the Model Y soon but wanted to keep SR/SR+ versions of both affordable (well "affordable" is relative, but keep as many options eligible for rebates as possible).
 

Vostok

Active Member
Jul 1, 2017
1,781
1,896
Sydney
I will be changing my red sr+ order to a red lr on Monday as a result!
Congrats! You’ll really appreciate the range of the LR. Being able to drive carefree at freeway/highway speeds, knowing you can reach lots of chargers, and even if the one you planned is offline/occupied, probably make it to the one after that, is liberating. It also opens up long 400 km+ drives without stopping to charge if you plan to stop overnight.
 

race4life81

TSLA Investor ; Model 3 Perf - 2021
Apr 14, 2021
89
55
Melbourne, Australia
7K cheaper in VIC. Wow thats pretty bad for recent owners (like me).. could‘ve added FSD in the price.But then again I guess I wont be alone in this.

Edit: Is there any point in reaching out to Tesla to see if they will add the FSD as a sweetener ?
 
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Reactions: AussieOwner

QBN_PC

Member
Feb 11, 2020
370
424
Queanbeyan
100k, wow, Anything in the car beginning to fail or still all good?
Perhaps I was being a bit generous earlier. My Model 3 SR+ (Fremont, blue with black interior) is at almost 106k by now. Here's a few experiences with it:

Twice now I've had to replace the solid felt undertray liners, the ones that shield and insulate the battery pack. The rear undertray was $273 last November after it broke hitting a deep puddle at 60km/h. Took all of one minute for Zac at Beard to swap them out. The car hoist took longer than that just to raise and lower the car! The front and rear undertrays in a few weeks will be $500ish after a small existing roadkill at 110km/h last weekend.

When the undertray breaks, you may get a very noticeable rattle when driving into a mild headwind at 100km/h or above. Just get it replaced.

And when either undertray breaks you'll have a scrape, possibly an intermittent scrape, where a section of the undertray drags along the road. Just give the loose piece a good rip, and it'll be fine until your local service centre has a replacement part.

I'm replacing the wiper blades in a few weeks at the same time as the undertrays. Will be another $40 each. I could probably get away with sharpening them again, but I'm keen to see if new blades will do better. I'm tired of the smear when I use the wipers. And 16 months / 106k is a good life for wiper blades anyway.

The lip under the car's nose, where it transitions to the front undertray, is scratched to buggery. But it's plastic, so it won't degrade. And it's very hard for anyone to see. I'll consider sanding and painting it someday soon. I have some canary yellow car spray paint somewhere. Pretend it's for safety. It might contrast well with the Tesla Blue. Though if it looks too weird I'll pretend it was an undercoat, and cover it in black. I can't find Tesla Blue touch-up paint anywhere, and this needs more than touch up paint anyway. More like plasti-dip.

My preference for wearing jeans means the annoying metal press stubs around the pockets can contact the bottom centre of the steering wheel repeatedly. Around 95k I got a nick in the steering wheel's pleather, right at the bottom, in a really noticeable spot while turning. Some googling, two medical alcohol wipes (around and inside the nick), a needle, and some ordinary superglue from the head of the needle underneath and around the nick, and firm pressure from the centre of the needle up and down the area til it dries, and then some very fine sandpaper to bring it back down to flush, and you'll forget it ever happened.

Try not to squash bugs on your sun visor or other upholstery. I tried a few times to get rid of the black smudge on the visor. Not going away, I don't think.

The pretend carbon fibre contact plastic I bought for the piano black centre console fingerprint magnet, is showing signs of wear on the edges (cup holder edge and around the storage bin edge). Not enough to be concerned about, but I'll consider buying one or two spare sets someday. I suspect they'll be hard to come by, as they're no longer in the current model. Though contact plastic and a lot of patience will probably suffice.

I haven't had frunk or trunk liners, and I have no regrets. I wouldn't want to lose the storage space anyway.

Vacuuming under the front seat gets way easier when you remember you can move the seats quite some way forward. Doubly so for the driver's seat with a separate on-screen driver profile.

I had a glancing sideswipe blow from a wayward fawn last night. Didn't even scratch the paint. (Pity about its leg. It really needed to be put down. WIRES called me back and said they didn't care as it's not native animal. The police station took down the GPS coordinates and said they'd come and have a look for it, but they ended the call a bit too abruptly to think they meant it.)

No issues with glass, panels, window or door controls etc. The cameras are constantly blinded but usually only when they're looking at a cliff face on Macquarie Pass at night. The frunk sometimes won't open on the first go, but that's largely because the sleeping bag and blanket inside can press upwards, not because it's worn out. One time the frunk kept popping open while driving (!!!) but that's because the J1772 adapter was rattling around too close to the frunk's emergency release button.

Steering, handling, acceleration, braking, cornering etc is just as powerful as on day one.

You can use screen cleaning wipes with impunity if you stick on a screen protector first.

The pleather upholstery is doing really well with occasional wipe downs with Aldi baby wipes. Just use the dark blue packets, not the light blue, as the latter will leave cloth fibres over everything.

Any questions?
 

Vostok

Active Member
Jul 1, 2017
1,781
1,896
Sydney
Edit: Is there any point in reaching out to Tesla to see if they will add the FSD as a sweetener ?
Probably not. Tesla will usually pass on price reductions if someone has placed an order but not yet paid the final amount and taken delivery. They don’t have to under law, but they choose to do it.

Equally, if the price goes up after someone has placed an order, they will honour the price when the order was placed. There is an obligation under Australian Consumer Law to do this, or to give the purchaser the option of cancelling the transaction at no cost.

But to compensate for price changes after delivery has been taken? No.
 
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Reactions: race4life81

Hairyman

Member
Jul 24, 2019
816
436
Australia
Perhaps I was being a bit generous earlier. My Model 3 SR+ (Fremont, blue with black interior) is at almost 106k by now. Here's a few experiences with it:

Twice now I've had to replace the solid felt undertray liners, the ones that shield and insulate the battery pack. The rear undertray was $273 last November after it broke hitting a deep puddle at 60km/h. Took all of one minute for Zac at Beard to swap them out. The car hoist took longer than that just to raise and lower the car! The front and rear undertrays in a few weeks will be $500ish after a small existing roadkill at 110km/h last weekend.

When the undertray breaks, you may get a very noticeable rattle when driving into a mild headwind at 100km/h or above. Just get it replaced.

And when either undertray breaks you'll have a scrape, possibly an intermittent scrape, where a section of the undertray drags along the road. Just give the loose piece a good rip, and it'll be fine until your local service centre has a replacement part.

I'm replacing the wiper blades in a few weeks at the same time as the undertrays. Will be another $40 each. I could probably get away with sharpening them again, but I'm keen to see if new blades will do better. I'm tired of the smear when I use the wipers. And 16 months / 106k is a good life for wiper blades anyway.

The lip under the car's nose, where it transitions to the front undertray, is scratched to buggery. But it's plastic, so it won't degrade. And it's very hard for anyone to see. I'll consider sanding and painting it someday soon. I have some canary yellow car spray paint somewhere. Pretend it's for safety. It might contrast well with the Tesla Blue. Though if it looks too weird I'll pretend it was an undercoat, and cover it in black. I can't find Tesla Blue touch-up paint anywhere, and this needs more than touch up paint anyway. More like plasti-dip.

My preference for wearing jeans means the annoying metal press stubs around the pockets can contact the bottom centre of the steering wheel repeatedly. Around 95k I got a nick in the steering wheel's pleather, right at the bottom, in a really noticeable spot while turning. Some googling, two medical alcohol wipes (around and inside the nick), a needle, and some ordinary superglue from the head of the needle underneath and around the nick, and firm pressure from the centre of the needle up and down the area til it dries, and then some very fine sandpaper to bring it back down to flush, and you'll forget it ever happened.

Try not to squash bugs on your sun visor or other upholstery. I tried a few times to get rid of the black smudge on the visor. Not going away, I don't think.

The pretend carbon fibre contact plastic I bought for the piano black centre console fingerprint magnet, is showing signs of wear on the edges (cup holder edge and around the storage bin edge). Not enough to be concerned about, but I'll consider buying one or two spare sets someday. I suspect they'll be hard to come by, as they're no longer in the current model. Though contact plastic and a lot of patience will probably suffice.

I haven't had frunk or trunk liners, and I have no regrets. I wouldn't want to lose the storage space anyway.

Vacuuming under the front seat gets way easier when you remember you can move the seats quite some way forward. Doubly so for the driver's seat with a separate on-screen driver profile.

I had a glancing sideswipe blow from a wayward fawn last night. Didn't even scratch the paint. (Pity about its leg. It really needed to be put down. WIRES called me back and said they didn't care as it's not native animal. The police station took down the GPS coordinates and said they'd come and have a look for it, but they ended the call a bit too abruptly to think they meant it.)

No issues with glass, panels, window or door controls etc. The cameras are constantly blinded but usually only when they're looking at a cliff face on Macquarie Pass at night. The frunk sometimes won't open on the first go, but that's largely because the sleeping bag and blanket inside can press upwards, not because it's worn out. One time the frunk kept popping open while driving (!!!) but that's because the J1772 adapter was rattling around too close to the frunk's emergency release button.

Steering, handling, acceleration, braking, cornering etc is just as powerful as on day one.

You can use screen cleaning wipes with impunity if you stick on a screen protector first.

The pleather upholstery is doing really well with occasional wipe downs with Aldi baby wipes. Just use the dark blue packets, not the light blue, as the latter will leave cloth fibres over everything.

Any questions?
Thanks very much. Very helpful insights. I was thinking about mechanical stuff breaking in a predictable way from design issues and battery performance, but it all sounds pretty good.
 

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