I get my best battery efficiency between 60F and 70F. I have a M3LR. Not an LFP battery.
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
Wh/km (or mi) / range grossly mis-advertised, if not fraudulent... srsly.
- Thread starter yogi799
- Start date
So there is a TONNE of misinformation on how WINTER temps affect the battery and do I really have 60kwh in Winter or NO... ?
Then there is the pre-conditioning and the heat pump which was supposed to warm up the battery and alleviate the cold temp problem, but folks on here are telling me Winter is still going to kill 1/3 of range. So which is it? Why did they add the heat pump since winter range is still going to be in the toilet when it gets cold? Is the heat pump idea one big blunder, if I was to go by the last few replies? Getting a headache from this. I've read other reports (detailed test videos) from Volvo and F150 lightning and the consensus is clear: getting an EV? You WILL be lied to by your car's maker and expect HALF the advertised range. That is the only consistency I am noticing from all the sources... STOP asking questions and just f DEAL with a grossly misrepresented vehicle. Which is why and how i started this thread.... OK, I rest my case.
Then there is the pre-conditioning and the heat pump which was supposed to warm up the battery and alleviate the cold temp problem, but folks on here are telling me Winter is still going to kill 1/3 of range. So which is it? Why did they add the heat pump since winter range is still going to be in the toilet when it gets cold? Is the heat pump idea one big blunder, if I was to go by the last few replies? Getting a headache from this. I've read other reports (detailed test videos) from Volvo and F150 lightning and the consensus is clear: getting an EV? You WILL be lied to by your car's maker and expect HALF the advertised range. That is the only consistency I am noticing from all the sources... STOP asking questions and just f DEAL with a grossly misrepresented vehicle. Which is why and how i started this thread.... OK, I rest my case.
beatle
Active Member
The heat pump only assists in reducing the energy it takes to warm the cabin. It doesn't make the air you drive through any thinner, or make you drive any slower or reduce the amount you use the friction brakes.
Nobody has been lied to. You just didn't do any research before purchase or read any of the dozens or hundreds of articles/posts/videos about how EVs have reduced range in the winter and when you drive at higher speeds. You don't seem interested in reading any of the explanations people have already given you in this thread about why this is the case. Your head remains in the sand as if the only information ever available about the car was the EPA rated range.
Nobody has been lied to. You just didn't do any research before purchase or read any of the dozens or hundreds of articles/posts/videos about how EVs have reduced range in the winter and when you drive at higher speeds. You don't seem interested in reading any of the explanations people have already given you in this thread about why this is the case. Your head remains in the sand as if the only information ever available about the car was the EPA rated range.
Didn’t read entire post but even mild winter temps will affect your range. If you bounce back to say a 300-350 mile km range in warmer months will you still be outraged? Also cabin heat usage is not hidden from energy efficiency stats while you are in drive. Only parked / preconditioning usage is withheld from energy stats. I suspect you are suffering from short trip syndrome where a substantial amount of range is lost due to battery heating. Report back when your temps exceed 13c and let us know what you get.
Maybe you might want to think of selling the car and going back to an ICE vehicle. This doesn't seem to meet your expectations.
The reality is that you didn't do your do diligence before purchasing.
2 years ago when I fist started looking at EV's I thought the EPA range was the range. That all charging methods were equal.
Research and lots of reading taught me otherwise. Armed with research I purchased what I thought would work for me.
And to a large extent I have no regrets. My only regret is not being able to preheat the battery for fast charging when I want it on.
But that is a car limitation. I'm sure one day we'll be able to.
The reality is that you didn't do your do diligence before purchasing.
2 years ago when I fist started looking at EV's I thought the EPA range was the range. That all charging methods were equal.
Research and lots of reading taught me otherwise. Armed with research I purchased what I thought would work for me.
And to a large extent I have no regrets. My only regret is not being able to preheat the battery for fast charging when I want it on.
But that is a car limitation. I'm sure one day we'll be able to.
As stated in my thread, not too many short trips. Usually 30 minutes each. I would not consider 40km 25mile trip short. is that what you have in mind?
If it bounces back to 300-350 km range in summer i will be shocked to my core and beyond excited - I will feel this is what I have paid 60k for. That said, i will write to tesla to ask them to be honest and simply state on the order page (since there are no salesperson to ask that question before pulling the trigger!): "winter will kill your range by a factor of 40-50%. Not 10, not 20, but 30-40% (or 50% of the "advertised range")". I wonder how many people would still purchase the car if they knew how low temps affect the range. If I knew I would only get 210km out of 430 advertised, i would seriously re-consider. I watched one youtuber who made a lot of videos on f150 lightning and he too was shocked that a MILD winter, not -20 C or F which is common in Canada, can destroy your range. he also got half of what the computer said he would, he showed it all in the video and was stunned. He sold the vehicle. I won't but it shows you i was not the only one....
I did the research and was told by tesla owners winter will affect my range by 30%. The purpose of my thread was vastly different: it was discussing the INFO provided by the car. Look at the original post. I post exact data and numbers and the numbers never add up. Only until one member clearly stated that my battery is likely not 60kwh but 40kwh during winter, did i begin to understand what is going on. So, then it begs the question... Has tesla ever heard of a... thermometer??? why cant the damn computer tell me my range will be in the toilet when i leave the home during winter? Doesn't it know it is cold outside? Too much to ask of the most sophisticated car on earth? Why does it insist (the green energy screen) on telling me i will hit 300km range when i clearly won't despite relatively low driving energy use (as shown in OP above)?
And yes, i will be happy to report what happens at 13 degrees, sure... but then... is that to say that in hot July when i want make family trips to the lakes 150km away, i will once again be disappointed because now the car is going to run AC? Yes, I get it, battery will be warm and happy, but quietly hoping here that AC will not cut into my range too much and i can finally expect 350 out of the 430 km as advertised...
Yeah, wouldn't that be nice... if the car, which is supposedly a computer on wheels, could use a sophisticated equipment known as a thermometer and... your past driving history (I drive the same ALL the time, so where is the guesswork?) and honestly give you a range estimate in Km or miles, rather than being stuck with percentages (with the former being off by literally 50%! INSANE). Yeah, i know i'm asking too much and will once again get flamed here for "not doing my research" and "not listening" to the #wise ones on here telling me to just suck it up and STFU and accept misinformation from tesla.
But the F150 lightning apparently estimates like *sugar* too. The videos i have watched did exactly what tesla does. Total misinformation provided by the onboard electronics.
But the F150 lightning apparently estimates like *sugar* too. The videos i have watched did exactly what tesla does. Total misinformation provided by the onboard electronics.
You know, it does... you simply need to look at the energy graph and you'll get what you need. The "fuel gauge" is just a fuel gauge. They should show kWh of energy but they show %SOC or miles based on EPA instead. You have the information, it's right there, in the energy graph.
Oldrocky
Member
Hi yogi,
I have a 2018 MX. It gets pretty much the range shown on the dash ... in good weather.
In the winter - not so much. Read more to find out why I can say this ...
If you haven't ever heard this - heating or cooling a car is the worst possible environmental
situation ever asked of a heating/cooling system. All that glass (ratio of glass area to volume of
the interior). Moving - so always in the wind. Car not insulated even as well as a house with
zero insulation in the walls (thinner, gaps, and simply way too many places for the outside
air to affect the cabin situation). So don't expect the same of your Tesla as you get from your
portable space heater in your apartment/home. Plus car climate systems aren't really all
that good (they use a lot of energy) ... especially since today's systems are all "active" even
for heat (they run the pump when heating instead of using the available heat from the
engine/motor). Gee - the Teslas are cooling the battery all the time ... too bad they don't
reuse some of that heat for the cabin.
Finally - my experience shows that driving behaviors have a large effect on the range of
the car. If you drive fast and/or use all that acceleration that is there seducing you ... then
you can't expect to get the advertised range. I run my car - at most - 7mph over the
posted and also in "chill mode" in terms of acceleration. I use the speed control that the
car provides (aka cruise control). I'm very happy with my range. I can see a difference in
range when I reduce the cruise control by even 10%.
Try this ... be gentle on the accelerator, use every possible mile of cruise control, put it
in "chill mode", keep windows closed, set your climate control down to 68. Drive the
M3 this way for a week. See if your range doesn't "recover" ... considerably.
Then go back to using the car the way you want to - and accept the range you're
getting. Consider getting one with the long range battery? BTW - you are still probably
saving money when comparing to -any- non-EV with similar performance. You paid as
much for the performance as the 'savings' ... maybe more?
- Jim in the PNW
I have a 2018 MX. It gets pretty much the range shown on the dash ... in good weather.
In the winter - not so much. Read more to find out why I can say this ...
If you haven't ever heard this - heating or cooling a car is the worst possible environmental
situation ever asked of a heating/cooling system. All that glass (ratio of glass area to volume of
the interior). Moving - so always in the wind. Car not insulated even as well as a house with
zero insulation in the walls (thinner, gaps, and simply way too many places for the outside
air to affect the cabin situation). So don't expect the same of your Tesla as you get from your
portable space heater in your apartment/home. Plus car climate systems aren't really all
that good (they use a lot of energy) ... especially since today's systems are all "active" even
for heat (they run the pump when heating instead of using the available heat from the
engine/motor). Gee - the Teslas are cooling the battery all the time ... too bad they don't
reuse some of that heat for the cabin.
Finally - my experience shows that driving behaviors have a large effect on the range of
the car. If you drive fast and/or use all that acceleration that is there seducing you ... then
you can't expect to get the advertised range. I run my car - at most - 7mph over the
posted and also in "chill mode" in terms of acceleration. I use the speed control that the
car provides (aka cruise control). I'm very happy with my range. I can see a difference in
range when I reduce the cruise control by even 10%.
Try this ... be gentle on the accelerator, use every possible mile of cruise control, put it
in "chill mode", keep windows closed, set your climate control down to 68. Drive the
M3 this way for a week. See if your range doesn't "recover" ... considerably.
Then go back to using the car the way you want to - and accept the range you're
getting. Consider getting one with the long range battery? BTW - you are still probably
saving money when comparing to -any- non-EV with similar performance. You paid as
much for the performance as the 'savings' ... maybe more?
- Jim in the PNW
Not to be contrarian, and heck mine'e not even here yet but:
1) Have you talked with a service guy yet?
2) What range work have you done setting your expectations? There is a lot of cold weather range reports out there. Maybe look for "bjorn 1000KM Winter test) and note all the EV's he's tested. Not do all that great in the winter. As an example, for my expectations I'm thinking we'll see .4KW/hr in the winter on the interstate, .25 in the spring/fall on the interstate, and hope to see things like .2 in moderate weather around town. Will I? Dunno, and it's not much concern of mine either.
I grant you if I saw 165m range I'd be asking questions, but again, go talk to a tech. FWIW, Few, if none, of Bjorns' test show 50% loss so I don't think you're completely off base. On the other hand your stance on your driving certainly suggests an issue. (now might be a good time to go read #5...)
3) Small battery. So load to life is not linearly related to battery size. Said another way, if I take 20KWh out of an 60 KWh battery, it "feels" like I should get three hours. And if I take it from a 100KWH battery you'd think I'd get 5. That's sorta true, but sorta not. As battery drain increases more heat (think energy waste) is created to a smaller battery than to a larger one. Bottom line: Smaller batteries also under-perform relative to larger ones.
4) LFP. I mean OK, but I ordered an LR precisely because I was afraid of range issues.
5) Speed kills range. Drag is the worst. Drag, speed to you, is inversely proportional to power demand. Like it or not, speed will suck power down. Acceleration? I assume you understand physics enough to understand you're attempting to accelerate something pretty heavy. Get heavy handed and, well.. In fact, I sort of think acceleration is inversely related to mass. (ok, there are cobwebs in the way now) Anyway, combine these higher load with the affects of small battery sensitivity and cold operations... Well, that's strikes 1, 2, and 3. It's not going to be good. But look, if you're going to not cover your driving that's cool, go talk to the service tech and be candid w/them.
Otherwise good luck sir.
1) Have you talked with a service guy yet?
2) What range work have you done setting your expectations? There is a lot of cold weather range reports out there. Maybe look for "bjorn 1000KM Winter test) and note all the EV's he's tested. Not do all that great in the winter. As an example, for my expectations I'm thinking we'll see .4KW/hr in the winter on the interstate, .25 in the spring/fall on the interstate, and hope to see things like .2 in moderate weather around town. Will I? Dunno, and it's not much concern of mine either.
I grant you if I saw 165m range I'd be asking questions, but again, go talk to a tech. FWIW, Few, if none, of Bjorns' test show 50% loss so I don't think you're completely off base. On the other hand your stance on your driving certainly suggests an issue. (now might be a good time to go read #5...)
3) Small battery. So load to life is not linearly related to battery size. Said another way, if I take 20KWh out of an 60 KWh battery, it "feels" like I should get three hours. And if I take it from a 100KWH battery you'd think I'd get 5. That's sorta true, but sorta not. As battery drain increases more heat (think energy waste) is created to a smaller battery than to a larger one. Bottom line: Smaller batteries also under-perform relative to larger ones.
4) LFP. I mean OK, but I ordered an LR precisely because I was afraid of range issues.
5) Speed kills range. Drag is the worst. Drag, speed to you, is inversely proportional to power demand. Like it or not, speed will suck power down. Acceleration? I assume you understand physics enough to understand you're attempting to accelerate something pretty heavy. Get heavy handed and, well.. In fact, I sort of think acceleration is inversely related to mass. (ok, there are cobwebs in the way now) Anyway, combine these higher load with the affects of small battery sensitivity and cold operations... Well, that's strikes 1, 2, and 3. It's not going to be good. But look, if you're going to not cover your driving that's cool, go talk to the service tech and be candid w/them.
Otherwise good luck sir.
Dr. J
Active Member
Of course, it depends on the model of Tesla, but I think this article will shed light how various models use "waste heat" productively. TL;DR: the heat pump is extremely efficient and combines heating from the battery with heating the cabin.
Tesla Model Y Heat Pump Details Infrequently Discussed By The Media
Tesla’s new system “boosts” the heat pump to give it better efficiency than regular heat pump systems and uses unique methods for heating below -10C.
insideevs.com
Speed and drag kill range. I think this is one of the better explanations in the recent posts. Thanks TO EVEYRONE for chiming in. Appreciated.
I happen to drive on roads which flow at around 100 kmh, 63 mph so yes, drag is an issue for sure. I suppose if i drove at half that for 100% of battery range, i would get a lot more range even in winter... right?
So that is one thing. Second thing is my love to drive a lot faster ESPECIALLY a sporty tesla which begs you to push her. So... yes, i simply have to accept that my driving habits were not punished much by an ICE , but are so in an EV. ---- THAT SAID >>> my beef, once again, was (first POST), that the energy consumption gauge does not align with range. Ie. my kwh burned BY MY DRIVING (slow or fast irrelevant + some small consumption used by cabin heat as per onboard computer) did NOT translate to proper range >> not even close! So I called it Phantom draw, energy lost somewhere else, maybe by warming up my cabin before trips when not plugged in (possible)! So the next best explanation someone on here said was: My 60kwh battery is more like a 40kwh battery in winter. I buy that and can't wait till spring to test out the range then. Yes, I have watched other EVs and their range tanks as well in colder weather. By like almost 50%. Disaster but getting used to it and awaiting summer!
I happen to drive on roads which flow at around 100 kmh, 63 mph so yes, drag is an issue for sure. I suppose if i drove at half that for 100% of battery range, i would get a lot more range even in winter... right?
So that is one thing. Second thing is my love to drive a lot faster ESPECIALLY a sporty tesla which begs you to push her. So... yes, i simply have to accept that my driving habits were not punished much by an ICE , but are so in an EV. ---- THAT SAID >>> my beef, once again, was (first POST), that the energy consumption gauge does not align with range. Ie. my kwh burned BY MY DRIVING (slow or fast irrelevant + some small consumption used by cabin heat as per onboard computer) did NOT translate to proper range >> not even close! So I called it Phantom draw, energy lost somewhere else, maybe by warming up my cabin before trips when not plugged in (possible)! So the next best explanation someone on here said was: My 60kwh battery is more like a 40kwh battery in winter. I buy that and can't wait till spring to test out the range then. Yes, I have watched other EVs and their range tanks as well in colder weather. By like almost 50%. Disaster but getting used to it and awaiting summer!
Your 60kWh battery is still a 60kWh battery. A cold battery cannot provide as much energy until it warms up. You also consume additional energy to generate heat for the cabin, a bit like if you had a gas heater in your car that would burn a bit of your fuel. It's the same amount of total energy available, it's just spent differently than what you're used to. In an ICE car you wouldn't have a smaller tank, you would burn more fuel per mile. You can thus drive less miles on that total energy.
Yes, speed augments drag exponentially, and drag is a major aspect of consumption in an EV (because it's otherwise so efficient). That will still be true in the summer.
EDIT: The car isn't misrepresented by the way, I'm sure others have told you too. They say x miles of EPA range. If you check how the EPA tests you'll understand what that means and that will also answer your other question about when can you expect your car to do the EPA range. Driving 55mph or slower while using very little AC or heat so close to 70F.
Yes, speed augments drag exponentially, and drag is a major aspect of consumption in an EV (because it's otherwise so efficient). That will still be true in the summer.
EDIT: The car isn't misrepresented by the way, I'm sure others have told you too. They say x miles of EPA range. If you check how the EPA tests you'll understand what that means and that will also answer your other question about when can you expect your car to do the EPA range. Driving 55mph or slower while using very little AC or heat so close to 70F.
The issue I see is that there is not really a 'standard' way of stating range that is also useful and meaningful in all situations. This applies to ICE vehicles just the same, but is perceived as less of an issue - at least partly due to the baseline efficiency being much worse.
However, EV's in my opinion, being more finely balanced energy-wise as well as having more 'hidden clauses' depending on owner's awareness of technology factors, do need better and more consistent energy info.
My first EV's were Renault Zoes. They were 22kwh and 40kwh. In summer they reported around 4m/kwh and in winter 2.5m/kwh. They had a simple range estimate figure that tracked my recent average m/kwh figure. If I turned on the heating or a/c, the range immediately adjusted accordingly. I found that perfectly useable, although it did not take into account elevation or sudden changes in driving style - but that would be the same in the ICE world.
The MS on the other hand is potentially better at taking elevation into account, but the range indication (other than on energy graph) is likely way off and sticks pretty rigidly to a calculated hypothetical value. In practice, it hasn't been an issue since the charging network is more than adequate at dealing with any route changes, anomalies and any energy implications.
As EV's become more ubiquitous and still have to make do with less than ideal charging infrastructure overall, having uniform energy metering and reporting (well understood by most owners) will be very important.
Unless you are familiar with the software, the following might not be worth time interpreting, but the point is there are many factors to take into account, and lots of non-evident data needed before you can draw useful conclusions.
Kona EV, 64kwh. Recent data suggesting actual performance hitting over 4m/kwh in cold weather. Minimal battery heating. Gross very close to net.
Regardless of the validity of data or otherwise, the cold weather data suggests around 216 wh / mile, which beats the MS best summer figure by a fair margin. This is reflected in my real driving experience over most journeys but charging the Kona is significantly slower!
MS R LR. 100kwh.
Overall figures:
Teslamate data from a fairly level long steady run at 70mph in winter weather. Mimimal heating / a/c use. By either range calculation approach no where near Tesla's 350 mile plus.
Then here are a couple of winter runs in UK and a summer one. Different routes, but similar driving. Huge difference in wh/mile between winter and summer. And this doesn't even reflect any energy used heating the battery.
I appreciate having access to this detail for the MS so that I can see what is going on, but I really think average owners need a far simpler, more dependable and understandable way of relating to the realities of the variable energy profile of their cars.
However, EV's in my opinion, being more finely balanced energy-wise as well as having more 'hidden clauses' depending on owner's awareness of technology factors, do need better and more consistent energy info.
My first EV's were Renault Zoes. They were 22kwh and 40kwh. In summer they reported around 4m/kwh and in winter 2.5m/kwh. They had a simple range estimate figure that tracked my recent average m/kwh figure. If I turned on the heating or a/c, the range immediately adjusted accordingly. I found that perfectly useable, although it did not take into account elevation or sudden changes in driving style - but that would be the same in the ICE world.
The MS on the other hand is potentially better at taking elevation into account, but the range indication (other than on energy graph) is likely way off and sticks pretty rigidly to a calculated hypothetical value. In practice, it hasn't been an issue since the charging network is more than adequate at dealing with any route changes, anomalies and any energy implications.
As EV's become more ubiquitous and still have to make do with less than ideal charging infrastructure overall, having uniform energy metering and reporting (well understood by most owners) will be very important.
Unless you are familiar with the software, the following might not be worth time interpreting, but the point is there are many factors to take into account, and lots of non-evident data needed before you can draw useful conclusions.
Kona EV, 64kwh. Recent data suggesting actual performance hitting over 4m/kwh in cold weather. Minimal battery heating. Gross very close to net.
Regardless of the validity of data or otherwise, the cold weather data suggests around 216 wh / mile, which beats the MS best summer figure by a fair margin. This is reflected in my real driving experience over most journeys but charging the Kona is significantly slower!
MS R LR. 100kwh.
Overall figures:
Teslamate data from a fairly level long steady run at 70mph in winter weather. Mimimal heating / a/c use. By either range calculation approach no where near Tesla's 350 mile plus.
Then here are a couple of winter runs in UK and a summer one. Different routes, but similar driving. Huge difference in wh/mile between winter and summer. And this doesn't even reflect any energy used heating the battery.
I appreciate having access to this detail for the MS so that I can see what is going on, but I really think average owners need a far simpler, more dependable and understandable way of relating to the realities of the variable energy profile of their cars.
Last edited:
THAT is exactly what i am talking about. But i've been blasted here countless time for being stupid and uneducated and yet the smartest car alive, Musk's tesla is so f^&* dumb (AND STUBBORNLY MISLEADING!) << more heat coming for this comment, I can already see.
ALSO, I have stated the same and was also blasted: Why should winter be a problem at all since i though (and read??) that battery preconditioning means battery gets nice and warm from my L2 wall charger and then gives me summer-like performance. Oh no.. then I was "educated" in this thread that pre-conditioning by heat pump only means cabin heat and winter equals range drop to 50%. Confused as hell TBH. I ALWAYS precondition before i leave, for about 10-15 minutes and still get shitty range. Does that mean i need to run some "battery warmer" tool (not even sure what to call it since it doesnt work) for ONE HOUR before i leave in order to get summer like range during the drive? Just beyond confused here srsly. I accepted the fact winter = massive range drop.
I totally get your frustration. What is the useful purpose of a range indicator that mindlessly bases its reading on unrealistic data? Hence most sensible advice is to switch to percentage view and forget about indicated distance. Thankfully the energy graph paints a more useful picture of in-trip energy use and requirements.
The only explanation I have come up for displaying range in miles this way is that it aligns with marketing claims. Shortly after I took delivery, the displayed range (MS R LR) went up from 350 to 375 along with much excitement and discussion among owners. I didn't get the point as there was no evidence that my actual range would be any different. What was certain was that my driving style, ambient temp and probably tire pressure would have a way way bigger impact on actual range.
Living with the MS I have adjusted my expectations. The performance (that I hardly ever use) is fantastic. The charging speed and availability of chargers is also very good. If you compare net 'while driving' consumption / efficiency with gross 'over-all' energy consumption / efficiency, I think the Tesla 'energy use' picture gets even worse. All the heating (and cooling) amounts to wasted energy even if it improves performance of a specific task. (eg allowing faster charging).
IMO our Kona does a very good job of reporting energy use and useable range logically and honestly. The claimed range is around 275 miles from its 64kwh battery. The range displayed in winter based on driving the car normally tends to sit at 270 to 280 miles with heater off or 250 with heater on. In summer the displayed range edges up to 310. As long as a journey has no major extremes, the actual range is very close to the indicated range. Regen works 'normally' even when battery temp is a few degrees above freezing and at high SOC.
And the above is still true after 30k miles and I don't have to make any special allowances other than if my next trip is going to be highly atypical.
BUT: The Kona typically charges at around half its claimed maximum rate so charging time vs distance travelled is likely better in the MS. Each car has its merits. There is a lot to like about the MS, but also a lot of stuff to get upset about if you want to focus on that. Tesla made a lot of claims that while maybe defendable from a legal perspective definitely fall short of what typical car owners might reasonably expect. I think its best to focus on the strengths while you have the car, and move on to something else when the time is right.
The only explanation I have come up for displaying range in miles this way is that it aligns with marketing claims. Shortly after I took delivery, the displayed range (MS R LR) went up from 350 to 375 along with much excitement and discussion among owners. I didn't get the point as there was no evidence that my actual range would be any different. What was certain was that my driving style, ambient temp and probably tire pressure would have a way way bigger impact on actual range.
Living with the MS I have adjusted my expectations. The performance (that I hardly ever use) is fantastic. The charging speed and availability of chargers is also very good. If you compare net 'while driving' consumption / efficiency with gross 'over-all' energy consumption / efficiency, I think the Tesla 'energy use' picture gets even worse. All the heating (and cooling) amounts to wasted energy even if it improves performance of a specific task. (eg allowing faster charging).
IMO our Kona does a very good job of reporting energy use and useable range logically and honestly. The claimed range is around 275 miles from its 64kwh battery. The range displayed in winter based on driving the car normally tends to sit at 270 to 280 miles with heater off or 250 with heater on. In summer the displayed range edges up to 310. As long as a journey has no major extremes, the actual range is very close to the indicated range. Regen works 'normally' even when battery temp is a few degrees above freezing and at high SOC.
And the above is still true after 30k miles and I don't have to make any special allowances other than if my next trip is going to be highly atypical.
BUT: The Kona typically charges at around half its claimed maximum rate so charging time vs distance travelled is likely better in the MS. Each car has its merits. There is a lot to like about the MS, but also a lot of stuff to get upset about if you want to focus on that. Tesla made a lot of claims that while maybe defendable from a legal perspective definitely fall short of what typical car owners might reasonably expect. I think its best to focus on the strengths while you have the car, and move on to something else when the time is right.
Last edited:
Oldrocky
Member
Yogi799 - I previously gave you a "let's try this ... for just one full week" suggestion.
If you do that you -may- find that your mileage significantly increases. After you
have done that then you can decide whether you want to continue in your current
driving style ... or go to something that will get you better range.
Think - drive like it's a 10-year-old Prius and I'm retired - and you have the idea.
One thing you may be doing to your range is not adjusting how (when) you will
use the Fun part of owning your Tesla. For example "what's the value of blowing
the doors off every car you can ... during your regular commute?". Yeah, I get it
that commuting is terrifically boring and it's really easy to be seduced into
breaking that boredom with some spurts. But if it only cuts a few minutes off
your arrival time at work/home - what's the point?
For myself - I also enjoy the acceleration - but I also think I enjoy it more when
I don't use it so often. *G*
- Jim in the PNW
If you do that you -may- find that your mileage significantly increases. After you
have done that then you can decide whether you want to continue in your current
driving style ... or go to something that will get you better range.
Think - drive like it's a 10-year-old Prius and I'm retired - and you have the idea.
One thing you may be doing to your range is not adjusting how (when) you will
use the Fun part of owning your Tesla. For example "what's the value of blowing
the doors off every car you can ... during your regular commute?". Yeah, I get it
that commuting is terrifically boring and it's really easy to be seduced into
breaking that boredom with some spurts. But if it only cuts a few minutes off
your arrival time at work/home - what's the point?
For myself - I also enjoy the acceleration - but I also think I enjoy it more when
I don't use it so often. *G*
- Jim in the PNW
Similar threads
