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Guide To A Perfect Safety Score for the FSD Beta Queue, or Tesla Insurance reasons. (Whether you like it or not)


There is no TLDR; when it comes to this. there is no one piece of advice. If you're interested, please give my experience and advice a read.

I've seen many, many, many, people complain about the safety score program. and most of the time, it's due to just not understanding the process required to do well. Hopefully this helps people and they don't just argue like everyone seems to love. I've now driven 21,500 miles with a safety score since opting in 1/5/22. My first month of learning my car and the score system, I had a 97. As scores rolled off, In the second month, I hit 100 and it's been basically perfect since. So If everyone wants to argue, my score is my response.

Screen Shot 2022-05-26 at 2.08.26 PM.png


There are important things to remember.

The Safety Score process is training you for FSD beta, and to be the type of driver they want testing the beta. Not everything it considers good/bad, is what WE would consider good/bad driving.

If you're going to get a single thing from reading this, let it be this:
The 3 second window after disengaging AP/NoA is your best friend. Your score is NOT impacted for those 3 seconds. This is what allows you to pass other cars without worry of a FCW, use your brakes if actually needed, and take a turn a little sharper than the system would like if needed. Pressing your brake pedal or tapping up on the stalk disengages everything, and the countdown begins. engage AP before 3 seconds is over if it puts you close to another car ahead of you.
USE IT APPROPRIATELY as is is a valuable tool.


Sign up with Teslascope.com to get better breakdowns like the one above as well as other awesome info. It’s free for a month with the above link, then $3/mo after the trial if you like it. No payment info needed to start a trial. We are all data/information nerds here basically. I’m signed up with multiple services, but they are my favorite.

1. Requirements, that if you dont do, you can't complain about having a bad score. It's on you:

- READ TESLAS SAFETY SCORE FAQ. It's very technical, but important to attempt to understand.
- NEVER use TACC (Single stalk press), only use AP (Double stalk press).
- Turn on stop sign and stop light control.
- Turn on auto lane change without confirmation (Where possible)
- Set your forward collision warning to medium. this is what the system uses.
- If there are no lane lines on the edges of the road, or a non-solid shoulder, this becomes harder. use AP less.
- TRUST YOUR CAR and be ready to take over
- The goal is to let your car drive as much as possible. 90%+ of my drives are on AP/NoA. Aim for that %.

Everything can ding your score while using TACC, even though logically, letting the car control the speed should be counted as the car driving, not you... it is what it is. TACC brakes harder than you're allowed to (Especially if you have stop sign and stop light recognition turned on), and TACC can follow too closely over 50mph even at max following distance.
2. Hard Braking-

Screen Shot 2022-05-26 at 1.22.01 PM.png


This weighs heavily on your score. do NOT neglect this. It is hard to fix on the same drive where you knew you screwed up. Fixing this requires manual braking multiple times during your drive, and knowing very well, what your car considers hard braking.

The main culprits are yellow lights or being cut off... just double tap the stalk and engage AP. the car can brake hard and fast for yellow lights without impacting your score, and it has never once failed me or gone through a red light. Trust your car on this. If someone has their blinker on, or their tire crosses over into your alanewhile above 50mph, double tap the stalk, let the car handle it. your score wont be impacted. this is a hard one for people as it really relies on you trusting you vehicle. but give it a chance, and over time you'll get used to it.

ONLY use your brake pedal for fixing your hard braking score. I've never had regenerative braking ding my score, even on the strongest setting.

3. Aggressive turning -

Screen Shot 2022-05-26 at 1.17.13 PM.png

This takes some practice, but if you dont want to always use AP/NoA, when there is a yellow speed suggestion sign on curves, those signs are generally (90% of the time from my experience) telling you the speed that the road agency's know will cause your car to not go over a certain amount of G forces on the turn. Those speeds are meant for your average vehicle, with bad tires, because people are dumb and dont maintain their cars.Those speeds/G forces, line up with what Tesla says it aggressive turning. It's an interesting technical read if you feel like learning about it. especially on cloverleafs and highway exits Methods for Establishing Advisory Speed .


You should honestly just use NoA to handle exits and curves. it will slow down to the appropriate speed, maybe a little slower, but your score will be protected.

4. Forward Collision Warnings -

Screen Shot 2022-05-26 at 1.25.54 PM.png


This one is tricky... it's true that every now and then it will think a shadow is threat. or coming over a bit of a hill where it cant see the road curving after, it can go off. that's purely because it only has a split second to decide what's going to happen, and the car plays it safe. That is not really an error in the software. It's a good thing, but not for our scores. This is another reason to use AP or NoA as often as possible... even on city streets with lights and traffic. again, the safety score system is trying to get you used to using AP as much as possible, ready to take over when needed once you have the beta.

If you are accelerating, while someone within ~10 car lengths of you is decelerating, this will go off. AP and NoA are really the only way to avoid this consistently, since even if it goes off, nothing is scored while using AP/NoA

Another huge thing to consider with FCW's is the amount miles you drive as it factors this is as if you drove 1000 miles. If you drive 5 miles in a day, and get a FCW, that is like getting 200 FCW's in 100 miles. Maxing out this number to 101.9 for your day. I drive 150-350 miles a day so if I get a FCW, it usually ends up as a 4-7 for me instead of that 101.9 you would get driving short distances. This makes it very hard to get this number reduced after screwing up since most people drive less than 50 miles a day.

Bottom line with this one, is be hyper aware of cars ahead of you, and cars entering the roadway. stay out of the right lane incase someone brakes hard to go into a parking lot, or almost misses a turn.

Fortunately, these honestly will only take your score down 2-3% if you dont drive a lot. if you drive a lot, it'll take a 100 down to 99. not the end of the world.

Have I mentioned to just always use AP/NoA?

5. Unsafe Following-

Screen Shot 2022-05-26 at 1.33.56 PM.png


This one is pretty simple once you understand it, and once again, relies on just using AP/NoA. But the key is remembering that it doesnt count until you hit 50MPH. most people get dinged on this at hwy/fwy onramps by not engaging AP until they are on the fwy/hwy in the left lane. I usually engage around 40-45mph on the ramp. Our cars are VERY good at merging into traffic safely. it will speed up or slow down properly, and merge well. it CAN have problems if the lane lines are funky at the point of merging. Sometimes it will put the blinker on and try to go to the next lane over immediately if the fwy/hwy left lane line goes away quickly and the merge section is long, causing you to skip the lane youre merging into. When that's the case, turn your blinker off after your car turns it on, and it'll merge properly.

The struggle here that causes people to complain "The score is broken! I didn't follow closely 30% of my drive blah blah blah," is that the time/% it considers is ONLY when there is actually a car ahead of you, in the 1-3 second range. so if you have a bad following moment, and then there is never a car ahead of you while going >50mph for the rest of your drive, your score is screwed. If you are closely behind someone for 3 seconds, and then at the proper distance for 7 seconds before they are out of your lane or farther ahead of you, then this score is only based on 3 seconds of driving close, out of the 10 seconds total of being a behind that car at a proper distance. Boom. 30% close following for your entire drive. even if you drove 1000 miles.

When driving around 65-80mph, the perfect distance is when on the screens visuallization, the lead car is touching the end of the NoA single path line, or the end of the AP dual path lines. Unsafe following distance changes based on speed, as it should for a person who's driving manually. That line does adjust because the visualization zooms out when going fast, and zooms in when going slow. sometimes its hard to notice this because we don't watch the zoom change while driving. use the line/s.

This ones extremely easy to fix through your drive when you know the maneuver you just did is going to count against you. Follow the end of the lead line rule. purposefully put yourself behind cars to fix your score.

Final Thoughts

The safety score program is not perfect., but it is not hard either once you understand it. It's actually been a really interesting, teaching tool when it comes to me learning the way my car handles and thinks. Also, forcing me to use AP/NoA basically always, has taught me to really trust my car after seeing so many maneuvers I wasn't sure it could handle, being done perfectly.

I'll be happy to update this as I remember more advice... kinda wrote this in a one off spontaneously.

Treat it like a game. Aim for a high score. MAKE it fun. Hopefully they add more of us to the beta program soon, and if you're reading this for Tesla Insurance reason, enjoy the extra cash in your pocket.
 
Last edited:

LBM4

Tesla Fealty
Aug 20, 2021
345
321
California
Check your "Daily Detail" (scroll down) and use the left < icon to check which day there might have been a FCW in the last 30 days. It looks like the Safety Score only uses that last 30 days, so you may have to wait.
Its been over another week now. No more issues. My score is back up to 94. That one day really screwed my overall score and it takes a while to get it back up.
 
How to delete a bad trip

If you make a mistake (i.e. forward collision warning or following too close), pull over, stop, put car in park, go to autopilot, opt out of FSD Beta. Then, immediately opt back in by checking the three boxes and submitting. When you drive away, your last drive will immediately be forgotten and will never appear in your record. Don't do it too many times as it may reset the whole score to 100 but zero miles. Allow one toggle per day and it works like a charm!

I found the above somewhere on the internet. Can you confirm that it works?
 
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LBM4

Tesla Fealty
Aug 20, 2021
345
321
California
How to delete a bad trip

If you make a mistake (i.e. forward collision warning or following too close), pull over, stop, put car in park, go to autopilot, opt out of FSD Beta. Then, immediately opt back in by checking the three boxes and submitting. When you drive away, your last drive will immediately be forgotten and will never appear in your record. Don't do it too many times as it may reset the whole score to 100 but zero miles. Allow one toggle per day and it works like a charm!

I found the above somewhere on the internet. Can you confirm that it works?
That wouldn't have helped me, because I have no idea what caused my "error" to happen. I received no audio or visual warnings, so might have been a shadow on the ground for all I know?
 

KArnold

Active Member
May 21, 2017
1,035
1,196
Columbus OH
More "perfect" miles would also help the overall score. So if you see the FSD deliveries start, maybe take a day trip for a couple of hundred miles - at least get to an overall 95. There are spreadsheets floating around here where you could put in the history (miles/score) for what you have and it will tell you how many miles at 100% you need to get to the desired score.
 
The 3 second window.
"After disengaging AP/NoA is your best friend. Your score is NOT impacted for those 3 seconds." (Passing, braking, turning)

I gather that I do NOT have to rush to reengage what I call FSD and you call FCW/NoA. In other words reengaging FSD with in the 3 seconds is not required, right?

Can I quickly reengage FSD and disengage more than once if I need more than 3 seconds of time?
That, I don’t know. Anecdotally people have needed AP on for a few seconds before that 3 second window works. Not sure exactly though
 
Thanks for putting this together. A very interesting read. I may have made a poor investment of $10,000 for FSD because I believed it would become real sooner that it actually will. But some investments work well and some don't. In the mean time, I will have to try my best to maintain an SS of 100% to keep my Tesla insurance as low as possible. My insurance was based on a safety score and miles driven and I couldn't keep it, because the insurance company's nanny won't work on a Tesla, so they don't offer that policy on a Tesla. Now, my low mileage is hurting my premium instead of helping it. On the good side, the fuel savings should pay for the increased insurance cost.

My difficulty will be trying to find a path through, TACC and AP usage is required to maximize the safety score, but TACC and AP are far too dangerous to be used in either highway or city. Sort of makes me regret trading my Kia for the MY.
 

FLMan

Member
Supporting Member
Nov 25, 2021
93
59
Florida
My difficulty will be trying to find a path through, TACC and AP usage is required to maximize the safety score, but TACC and AP are far too dangerous to be used in either highway or city.

I disagree. Other than the 100 miles on AP requirement, TACC and AP are not required to maximize the safety score. AP is very useful in traffic when someone is about to cut you off since it will absorb the "too close" ding from that. I drove most of my 99% scored miles myself once I found the proper follow distance to not get dinged by that one. I did use AP when I didn't feel like bothering with it and as long as you're on the highway in the middle lane (if you have that option) there's really no issue with AP. I noticed solid improvements in its functionality and usefulness over the 4 months I was playing the safety score game.
 
Thanks for putting this together. A very interesting read. I may have made a poor investment of $10,000 for FSD because I believed it would become real sooner that it actually will. But some investments work well and some don't. In the mean time, I will have to try my best to maintain an SS of 100% to keep my Tesla insurance as low as possible. My insurance was based on a safety score and miles driven and I couldn't keep it, because the insurance company's nanny won't work on a Tesla, so they don't offer that policy on a Tesla. Now, my low mileage is hurting my premium instead of helping it. On the good side, the fuel savings should pay for the increased insurance cost.

My difficulty will be trying to find a path through, TACC and AP usage is required to maximize the safety score, but TACC and AP are far too dangerous to be used in either highway or city. Sort of makes me regret trading my Kia for the MY.
It isnt required, but if youre struggling to get a good score, then using AP will help since it negates any scoring factors
 
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FLMan

Member
Supporting Member
Nov 25, 2021
93
59
Florida
Sorry, I misunderstood. Glad it isn't required to maximize my score.
If you're struggling with the score and the follow distance in particular, then go find some heavy traffic, get in the middle/ left lane (to prevent any merging issues), set your follow distance to max and turn on AP. Note the distance that it keeps between itself and the cars in front of you and then try to keep at least that much distance at all times when you're driving without AP. You can go as fast as you want and weave around like a maniac as long as you keep that distance between you and the traffic around you.
 

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