stopcrazypp
Well-Known Member
This doesn't seem like a good idea. Even a fender bender might sever that link.
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I got hit with this issue recently which happened shortly after a software update. My VIN is in the low 6000s.
Vehicle support said it was a 12V battery issue but was perplexed at all the error messages from my car. He had never seen anything like it before. It was Sunday afternoon and apparently, no one in diagnostics was working at that time either. As we were talking, the car went offline so he had me open the door to see if the car would come back online. That turned out to be a bad idea since the window normally drops a little when opening the door and now I had a door with the window fully up that I couldn't close without damaging the chrome trim and window.
For the next hour, I tried opening the tow eye cover. The manual said to push firmly on the upper right corner until it pops open and I've seen a video of someone doing it one handed on youtube but mine wouldn't budge. If I pushed any harder, I'm certain I would've bent or snapped it in half. I ended up using a plastic pry tool on the bottom left of the cover to get it open. I'd advise everyone to have their delivery specialist demonstrate it for you when you pick up your car to make sure yours isn't like mine.
Once the cover was open, I got the frunk to open by applying 12V using a jump starter to the terminal wires inside the tow eye cavity, then removed the plastic cover and another plastic piece to get access to the 12V battery. After connecting the starter to the battery, I was able to lower the window and close the door.
I hooked up a trickle charger (12V 6A) overnight and got it to 25% when I checked on it in the morning. There were some new error messages: Airbag needs service; Parking brake needs service. They couldn't get a mobile tech out in a timely manner so we decided it'd be best to get it towed to the service center so I could get a loaner for the time being as the car was inoperable.
When the tow truck arrived, we tried putting it into transport mode but the car wouldn't let us (button was greyed out) so the tow truck driver put skates on the rear wheels and pulled the car onto the truck from the back.
Vehicle support said it was a 12V battery issue but was perplexed at all the error messages from my car. He had never seen anything like it before. It was Sunday afternoon and apparently, no one in diagnostics was working at that time either. As we were talking, the car went offline so he had me open the door to see if the car would come back online. That turned out to be a bad idea since the window normally drops a little when opening the door and now I had a door with the window fully up that I couldn't close without damaging the chrome trim and window.
For the next hour, I tried opening the tow eye cover. The manual said to push firmly on the upper right corner until it pops open and I've seen a video of someone doing it one handed on youtube but mine wouldn't budge. If I pushed any harder, I'm certain I would've bent or snapped it in half. I ended up using a plastic pry tool on the bottom left of the cover to get it open. I'd advise everyone to have their delivery specialist demonstrate it for you when you pick up your car to make sure yours isn't like mine.
Once the cover was open, I got the frunk to open by applying 12V using a jump starter to the terminal wires inside the tow eye cavity, then removed the plastic cover and another plastic piece to get access to the 12V battery. After connecting the starter to the battery, I was able to lower the window and close the door.
I hooked up a trickle charger (12V 6A) overnight and got it to 25% when I checked on it in the morning. There were some new error messages: Airbag needs service; Parking brake needs service. They couldn't get a mobile tech out in a timely manner so we decided it'd be best to get it towed to the service center so I could get a loaner for the time being as the car was inoperable.
When the tow truck arrived, we tried putting it into transport mode but the car wouldn't let us (button was greyed out) so the tow truck driver put skates on the rear wheels and pulled the car onto the truck from the back.
Probably a little too accessible. The other methods require tools a first responder would have or the owner could unlock to access. Also, bumpers can get damaged in minor accidents. They probably don’t want high voltage in the first thing the car hits.
In the event of an accident where airbags deploy, a pyro detonates and takes out the high voltage.
This cable is thick. You don't want to run it far away for fun. Anything before that loop will still be energized so you want a cut as close to the source as possible.
This is the safety loop than allows the contactors to turn on, not the HV itself.
Guessing practicality, if the hood can open, they do it there, if the car is so mangled that won't work they'll cut the rear quarter panel loop with an axe or saw.
Getting on the ground to mess with the tow hook cover and try to fish out wires to cut while next to a vehicle you are worried about HV on, is not going to be popular.
hacer
Active Member
I'm sure you'll be much happier when a thief has used a crowbar to open your frunk and steal your cargo.
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hacer
Active Member
I hope you didn't wash it like this:
You perhaps don't have the early history of Tesla - or the history of the FUD machine that makes and exaggerates all these stories. Early on when Tesla released Model S, the anti-EV brigade was throwing so much of fit over one Roadster which was indeed bricked when the owner left the car uncharged for over a month. Model S is a much improved design, and we haven't heard of a bricked battery in the S or X. Seeking Alpha and other outlets were churning out stories on every failure to charge, as a failed battery that needs full replacement - cost of over $20k
In this context a bricked battery is one where the battery can no longer take in any charge, and no longer can be repaired, and a replacement of the whole battery is the only solution.
So in this case the 12V battery was indeed bricked, but not the traction battery. Which if it happens will be a huge deal.
I brought it into the SC yesterday and it appears that if you let enough liquid roll down the interior of the windshield, it eventually drips down the side of the dash where some modules are located and shorts it or something. The problem is still being diagnosed, but that’s their initial prognosis.
UZJedi
Member
Very interested to hear what comes of this. The 12V battery issue is no mystery at this point, but all those error messages are new.
The car is still at the service center. Here's the latest text I received from them today:
"The diagnosis has determined that your Model 3 requires parts replacement. We have ordered the necessary parts and will update you again once we have an estimated time of arrival."
For the time being, they gave me a P85D to drive but to be honest, I actually enjoy driving the 3 more. You can see more of the road with the minimalist front.
milleron
Member
"Bricked" is a slang term, and, as such, I don't agree that it could have a definition that narrow, regardless of how many forum threads might have used it that way. As Inigo Montoya would quip, "I don't think that word means what you think it means."In terms of electric vehicles, saying your car is 'bricked' means that the main battery (not the 12V) is dead and non-recoverable. Can't be charged again. You're buying a new battery for your car.
Your car wasn't bricked
bonnie
I play a nice person on twitter.
I think there's been enough discussion in this thread to demonstrate the meaning is well-defined in the electric vehicle market & not just some forum thing.
Moving on.
Barklikeadog
Active Member
Hi all,
Tesla finally got back to me and it appears that they have to change out the screen and whatever the module it’s connected to. Unfortunately they have no idea when that will happen. I think it’s a crazy that some water on the dash would cause so much damage to the whole system. I’m sure Tesla will have to deal with this pronto because washing your windshield or putting tint on it should not lead to a complete system failure of the Model 3. I’m going to have to keep research if others have had this happen to them. I’m so pissed.
Tesla finally got back to me and it appears that they have to change out the screen and whatever the module it’s connected to. Unfortunately they have no idea when that will happen. I think it’s a crazy that some water on the dash would cause so much damage to the whole system. I’m sure Tesla will have to deal with this pronto because washing your windshield or putting tint on it should not lead to a complete system failure of the Model 3. I’m going to have to keep research if others have had this happen to them. I’m so pissed.
LoL Rick
Like Buttah
My service center warned my window tinter not to tint the windshield because water getting behind the dash could fry the computer. They said they've already seen it twice.
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