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EDIT: More accurate list of states driving conditions in winter
The Deadliest States For Winter Driving

Dumb ranking. It's ranked nominally, so the most populous states will be at the top. Duh! If you sort it by population, the state that finished 16th with only 49 fatalities, actually has the highest rate of fatalities is Wyoming. Then Montana which was 20th, nominally. Then Maine which was 22nd, nominally. Then Michigan, which was first nominally.

Wyoming was 3x as dangerous as Michigan, based upon fatality rate as a %age of population.
 
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Dumb ranking. It's ranked nominally, so the most populous states will be at the top. Duh! If you sort it by population, the state that finished 16th with only 49 fatalities, actually has the highest rate of fatalities is Wyoming. Then Montana which was 20th, nominally. Then Maine which was 22nd, nominally. Then Michigan, which was first nominally.

Wyoming was 3x as dangerous as Michigan, based upon fatality rate as a %age of population.
And in Alaska we ranked 35th? Haha. 7-8 months of winter, don’t use salt so roads stay ice/snow covered, extremely remote roads, no cell service over most of the state, extreme cold, ... and 35th based on their pathetic methodology.
 
Hello everyone,

I have a Model 3 Performance and ordered 18" XIce3's with a set of rims from PMCTires that were guaranteed to fit.

Went to get them installed, drove off and within 20 seconds came right back due to a loud noise from the back tires. Turns out the calipers were scraping against the rim! PMC said they've never encountered this, but are willing to take them back.

Does anyone here think perhaps the installers messed up? Are the back calipers larger? The front ones had enough clearance.

Here's the tire and rims:
Tires - 18" - 235/45-18 XIce3
Rims - Touren TR9 (Touren - TR9 - Matte Black)
 
Hello everyone,

I have a Model 3 Performance and ordered 18" XIce3's with a set of rims from PMCTires that were guaranteed to fit.

Went to get them installed, drove off and within 20 seconds came right back due to a loud noise from the back tires. Turns out the calipers were scraping against the rim! PMC said they've never encountered this, but are willing to take them back.

Does anyone here think perhaps the installers messed up? Are the back calipers larger? The front ones had enough clearance.

Here's the tire and rims:
Tires - 18" - 235/45-18 XIce3
Rims - Touren TR9 (Touren - TR9 - Matte Black)
Can't say definitively, but I tend to doubt it was the installers' fault. Wheels mount to hubs - very straightforward. Not a whole lot of room for installer error. Again, can't say definitively, but it sounds like PMCTires screwed up and those wheels do not, in fact, fit the Model 3 Performance.
 
Hello everyone,

I have a Model 3 Performance and ordered 18" XIce3's with a set of rims from PMCTires that were guaranteed to fit.

Went to get them installed, drove off and within 20 seconds came right back due to a loud noise from the back tires. Turns out the calipers were scraping against the rim! PMC said they've never encountered this, but are willing to take them back.

Does anyone here think perhaps the installers messed up? Are the back calipers larger? The front ones had enough clearance.

Here's the tire and rims:
Tires - 18" - 235/45-18 XIce3
Rims - Touren TR9 (Touren - TR9 - Matte Black)
Yes the rear calipers are larger. The installing mounted tires on a car unless something is bent or damaged in the process can’t really be done incorrectly, my 11 and 13 year old did the winter tire swap on our Tesla and Mercedes this fall.
 
One more try on this one. :)

I need some advice on wheels.

I really only care about two things when it comes to winter wheels: that they fit, and that they're cheap. I would honestly buy a set of $25 steel wheels if I could find them in the right size.

Discount Tire (which I've found to have generally lower prices than Tire Rack), has this list of 18" wheels compatible with the Model 3 (non-P).

The ones I'm looking at are:
Vision Cross II ($115, 28.2 lbs)
X Wheels ER-1 ($116, 25.4 lbs)
Liquid Metal Shift ($123, 26.4 lbs)
Velox Nirvana ($128, 28.0 lbs)

They all have the right bolt pattern and offset, sufficient load rating, and sufficient center bore (they're all 73.1mm center bores vs. the Model 3's 64.1mm bore).

The things I'm not sure about (which Discount Tire doesn't list) are backspacing and lug style. Discount Tire says these wheels "fit" the Model 3, but does that mean they have the same backspacing and lug style?

Any wisdom here (or comments on those wheels of any sort) is greatly appreciated!
 
Dealt with this today. I ended up using the heat from my hands to melt the ice to get the passenger door open, then hit the drivers door release.

pain in the ass and I was 15 minutes late to a meeting.

hoping that preconditioning the cabin will help
 
Dealt with this today. I ended up using the heat from my hands to melt the ice to get the passenger door open, then hit the drivers door release.

pain in the ass and I was 15 minutes late to a meeting.

hoping that preconditioning the cabin will help
Yes it’s a pain indeed. Preconditioning will help I’m sure, but I don’t think it will always work. To me it seems wrong to have to precondition the car every time in order to access the car. I could live with it if it were just stuck door handles. It would be nice if the frameless window design was like Subaru’s. I believe their cars don’t require the window to roll down to clear the trim.
 
@dennisvab This might be helpful to you: Tesla Model 3: prepare for winter with tires, mats, and some tips - Electrek

I'll be picking up some rubber seal protectant to apply this winter because last year my Model 3 driver door window got stuck one day it was particularly frosty and cold that morning, and I'm in the SF Bay area (so new Bay area owners, heads up!) Having read about people back East having this problem and knowing from that to be careful about closing a door that you got open but who's glass didn't go down (don't smash your window glass on the body of your car!), I was careful and did have to have the heater/defroster on for a bit before I could properly and safely close the door. With the weather all over the place this year, who knows what kind of winter we'll have here but rather be ready for freezing and wet.
 
Nothing works better than a few splashes of hot water. I’d not do that to a stuck charging port of course but doors windows and even charge port cover are game. If you’re starting from home, it’s the easiest solution. If you’re at work or near a cafe/hotel or a store / restaurant, it’s also very easy to manage.

If you’re in the middle of nowhere, then I can see it being a problem for sure.
 
@dennisvab This might be helpful to you: Tesla Model 3: prepare for winter with tires, mats, and some tips - Electrek

I'll be picking up some rubber seal protectant to apply this winter because last year my Model 3 driver door window got stuck one day it was particularly frosty and cold that morning, and I'm in the SF Bay area (so new Bay area owners, heads up!) Having read about people back East having this problem and knowing from that to be careful about closing a door that you got open but who's glass didn't go down (don't smash your window glass on the body of your car!), I was careful and did have to have the heater/defroster on for a bit before I could properly and safely close the door. With the weather all over the place this year, who knows what kind of winter we'll have here but rather be ready for freezing and wet.
Thanks for the reply and link to the article. For me the issue isn’t with the glass freezing to the rubber seal. It’s frozen shut and won’t even roll down.