Guide to Install Secondary 12v Outlet Without Splicing or Cutting

[DTX720]

Hi all,
I wanted to install a secondary 12v outlet in my 2019 Model 3 but wasn't content with other solutions, which included splicing the existing wiring or dragging a line to the battery. It was difficult to track down the parts list, but I managed to compile a list of connectors and terminals needed to make a Y adapter to connect in-line with the existing 12v outlet and the wiring harness providing power to it.

In the below photo, I worked with a friend to create an adapter that continues the existing connection to the 12v plug in the console, but also provides in parallel a SAE quick connect plug which can be routed down through the console without need for disassembly.

Here are the parts I ordered from Mouser to match the existing male and female connectors for the 12v outlet in the console:

Part Name	Aptiv/Delphi Part #	Mouser Part #	Quantity Needed	Purpose
Aptiv (formerly Delphi) 3P FEMALE MED GRAY 2	12176836	829-12176836	1	Connects to existing 12v outlet in console
Aptiv (formerly Delphi) SECONDARY LOCK BLUE	15324886	829-15324886	1	Locks terminals inside female connector housing
Aptiv (formerly Delphi) FMALE 280 SERIES TIN	12110844-L	829-12110844	2	+/- Terminals inside female connector
Aptiv (formerly Delphi) CONN 3 M M/P 280 BLK	13897598	829-13897598	1	Connects to female connector from harness which provides power to the outlet
Aptiv (formerly Delphi) MALE 280 SERIES TIN	12034047-L	829-12034047	2	+/- Terminals inside male connector

I also purchased this SAE quick connect extension cable which we spliced into the Y: https://a.co/d/d8tnHEI
(I chose SAE because it allowed me to route the wiring downwards through the console without having to do the soldering work inside the vehicle. It also makes the line out discrete when not in use)

Finally, I purchased this SAE quick connect to 12v connector adapter: Amazon.com
(I chose a medium length cable, but you could easily select any other length needed - which is one of the reasons I chose to do a SAE connection)

The friend who helped me used his own 14 AWG wire for parts of the Y we made, but you can easily splice the extra off your extension cable.
I got lucky with ~14" of lead on the SAE plug - I'd recommend closer to 18-24" to be safe.

Here are some photos of the install and outcome:

I'm up to my attachment limit on this post, so I'll try to reply with the additional resources I located for disassembly of the console.

 

[DTX720]

Here are the disassembly guides I referenced from the Tesla Service manual.

 

[Docpaulo]

They sell a y splicer for that plug...

 

[SpriteM3]

Neat, I love DIYs like this!

 

[DTX720]

They sell a y splicer for that plug...

Do you mean a cigarette lighter splitter or the three pole connector splitter? I tried to find it before making it myself.

 

[Docpaulo]

Do you mean a cigarette lighter splitter or the three pole connector splitter? I tried to find it before making it myself.

It does the same as what you did really.. so this product is more for those not wanting to solder

12 Volt Power Adapter fit for 2018-2020 2021 2022 Jeep Wrangler JL JLU Unlimited & Gladiator JT & for 1999-2018 Jeep Wrangler JK JKU TJ Unlimited Both Two and Four Door Models https://a.co/d/fj9QlGS

 

[DTX720]

It does the same as what you did really.. so this product is more for those not wanting to solder

12 Volt Power Adapter fit for 2018-2020 2021 2022 Jeep Wrangler JL JLU Unlimited & Gladiator JT & for 1999-2018 Jeep Wrangler JK JKU TJ Unlimited Both Two and Four Door Models Amazon.com

DANG! Wish I could have found that
Thanks for linking it. I had fun making my adapter, but that seems like the way to go otherwise.

 

[DTX720]

It does the same as what you did really.. so this product is more for those not wanting to solder

12 Volt Power Adapter fit for 2018-2020 2021 2022 Jeep Wrangler JL JLU Unlimited & Gladiator JT & for 1999-2018 Jeep Wrangler JK JKU TJ Unlimited Both Two and Four Door Models https://a.co/d/fj9QlGS

My one defense to my guide above is that I used 14 AWG wire, which will carry the full 12A continuous / 16A peak the accessory port supports. The adapter you linked is limited to 24 watts according to it's description - which is 2A. It could be in reality capable of higher draw, but according to it's description it's limited to 2A. For accessories like a radar detector or dash cam, that's fine, but I want a full power accessory port capable of the full 12A / 144W continuous draw the port is rated for. If you have personal experience drawing more - please reply!

 

[skygraff]

I was really hoping that you'd come up with a way to split off at the the source (behind the front of the console - under the dash) rather than at the cigarette lighter style outlet (why do they still use that form factor, backwards compatibility?).

I've seen some great ideas for adding more power in the front of the console but they all require running wires from the 12v outlet or splicing wires under the dash even though there's a connection point right there which is perfect for a Y; unfortunately, I haven't had the motivation to really dig into DIY options.

 

[Docpaulo]

Yup.. its only for accessories.. i used it to power a mobile gmrs radio...

And it has its own fuse..

for higher powered stuff, custom wiring is better like you did.. comes down to use... most probably just plug in a cellphone charger

My one defense to my guide above is that I used 14 AWG wire, which will carry the full 12A continuous / 16A peak the accessory port supports. The adapter you linked is limited to 24 watts according to it's description - which is 2A. It could be in reality capable of higher draw, but according to it's description it's limited to 2A. For accessories like a radar detector or dash cam, that's fine, but I want a full power accessory port capable of the full 12A / 144W continuous draw the port is rated for. If you have personal experience drawing more - please reply!

 

[racerpj]

IMHO, splicing wires and adding a fuse is easy. What you did is practically the same thing - accessing power from the accessory wire. The car computer, penthouse, and electronic fuses will "see" no difference.

 

[JonnyWiFi]

I'm so glad to have found this thread! I was starting to fill my Mouser shopping cart with the connectors and pins found in the Tesla Service Manuals. The Amazon link provided above is just one of 6 cable assemblies available. I ordered 2 of them to try out. I don't need the full 12A/16A load to my ambient LED light pipes, but I will insist on supporting the full rated current on the original power socket in case I need to plug in an air compressor at some point. Post a comment if you're interested in seeing some specs on the two harnesses I ordered. Neither one lists the gauge of wire used.

 

[MikeRTX]

I guess I'm slow, but if you're just trying to get a second outlet, why wouldn't an ordinary Y splitter work? Like this:

Or this:

They're sold everywhere, or of course Amazon has them. Less than 10 bucks.

 

[JonnyWiFi]

I’m a maker. Some might say tinkerer, but I prefer “maker”. Unlike a lot of people, I enjoy a hard challenge and I’m content to work relentlessly to come up with a sound, permanent engineering solution. When I design, it is for ultimate simplicity and aesthetic elegance. This means it takes me longer to design and implement solutions and my solutions often require I make custom parts or modify original parts to achieve my objectives.

To answer your question, my project was to integrate ambient LED lighting into my Model Y In a way that most closely matches the newly refreshed Model Y’s shipping from Shanghai. My first pass at this involved a splitter like you posted above with 3 switchable outlets. It worked fine, but I had to hide wires in tight places and my center console was filled with wires and adapters that proved to be unreliable since the old cigarette lighter plugs do not lock securely in place. This got me thinking it would be an engineering improvement to hide all the wiring and the LED controller in the large empty space near the floor under the front center console.

To accomplish this, I bought the wiring harness suggested above, securely installed it under the cup holder, and ran the wires down into the space near the floor. I then designed and made a power controller harness for the LED lights that senses when the Tesla ambient lights are off and turns off the power to the new LED controller. This way my new LED lights turn themselves on and off at the appropriate times and I can control power to them from my touch screen on the Lights page (see attached photo). I finished running hidden wires up to my dash and out to my doors and connected up the light pipes to the LED light emitters.

Now that it’s done, my rear center console is clean and organized. I am not relying on any cigarette lighter connectors. I can control the color and function of the LED ambient lights from the mobile app (separate from the Tesla app) while having them automatically turn on and off. The installation is permanent and very close to factory-quality.

One added bonus - once I got reliable power where I wanted it, I decided to fork the 12V and power a 12V to USB-C 3A adapter. I’m using this to provide power to a MagSafe wireless charger mounted under my screen. I discovered early on that using the wireless chargers built into the car led me to forget to take my phone when exiting the car. I also found my phone would overheat when I was on long Teams calls causing my phone to protect itself and power down. Previously, I ran the power cord along the plastics and fished it into the front center console where it plugged into a USB C port. I could hear the wire dragging on the console lid when I opened it all the way…. Not cool. Powering it from down below allowed me to completely hide the wire, free up a USB C port, and keep my interior clear and operating as designed.

My approach is not for everyone. I get that. For those interested in upgrading their vehicles rather than just adding accessories, the wiring harness suggested above is a great product and a huge time saver. It also allows me to completely remove my changes restoring the car to original condition. I’m including a photo of my phone mount below. The mount is from Amazon. The arm is my own custom CAD design 3D printed with ASA (high temperature) plastic and the MagSafe charger has a Peltier solid state cooler built into it to keep my iPhone cool even under heavy load on hot days.

 

[WorksInTheory]

I am wanting to do the exact same thing you did for ambient lights... but I am not yet as savvy as the folks in this group. I am not understanding how you made this power controller harness. When I click on it, it goes to a relay product b ut I am not sure it all si wired up to do what you say below? Is there a picture or some more elaboration you can provide to help me. Thank you.

"To accomplish this, I bought the wiring harness suggested above, securely installed it under the cup holder, and ran the wires down into the space near the floor. I then designed and made a power controller harness for the LED lights that senses when the Tesla ambient lights are off and turns off the power to the new LED controller. This way my new LED lights turn themselves on and off at the appropriate times and I can control power to them from my touch screen on the Lights page (see attached photo). I finished running hidden wires up to my dash and out to my doors and connected up the light pipes to the LED light emitters."