I am familiar with the first change: more comfort.
I am not familiar with the second change: fronts only. Can you elaborate or point me to a thread? Thanks.
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Is There a Definitive Answer? 20" Sport Wheel Includes Rear Upper Fore Links / Control Arms
- Thread starter tiltmode43
- Start date
I am familiar with the first change: more comfort.
I am not familiar with the second change: fronts only. Can you elaborate or point me to a thread? Thanks.
I was referring to this thread, in which it was discovered that the 20" performance wheels had a lip bored out of them, because the rotor hub was slightly different on the Performance Upgrade P3D: T Sportline 19s on a P3D+ rattling like crazy
Yep, I was the one who first discovered that problem and posted about it in early august when I got one of the early P3D+ cars. The bored out ring in the wheel doesn't affect how they fit on the non-performance hubs though. And I believe Tesla has that bored out ring on all the 19" wheels now as well, hence why I mentioned it's weird that their website still says they won't fit when they will.
Knightshade
Well-Known Member
I can point you to the one where I just repeat the same info (with parts catalog links, but I think they've pulled some info out since then)...initially it was to point out the AWD P and Non-P get exactly the same drive units (same motors, same inverters) but I also checked out some suspension parts and mention the changes there too.
All LR motors are the same- MR one is NOT
I don't think anybody knows what was changed other than the Dec 2017 change officially being mentioned as softening the ride- the June one I'm not sure anybody was aware of until it was noticed in the parts catalog.
For the part catalog, the diff is 40mm vs 35mm.
WHEEL, 20X8.5J ET40, SPORT - SILVER (1234222-00-A, 18" and 19" wheels are ET40 too)
PERF WHEEL, 20X8.5J ET35, SPORT - SILVER (1234227-00-D)
So technically the wheels are not compatible even if they fit.
What about that makes them "not compatible"? My aftermarket wheels are +40 in rear but +35 in front, are you saying those aren't compatible either? Changing offset is one of those most common things when considering other wheel options and a 5mm difference is almost negligible.
The 5mm difference on the 20" wheels is to account for the 3mm machined ring on the center bore, meaning when combined with +35mm offset, the wheels protrude outwards 2mm more than the +40mm OEM wheels.... It's not an issue
Daniel in SD
(supervised)
I have the definitive answer! The P3D+ has different "fore links" than the AWD. @AlanSubie4Life was over and we checked.
The construction of the link is different. It looks stronger to me as it doesn't rely on a welded tube for strength. All other part numbers except the spring are the same. I bet the link is needed to handle the incredible torque from the binned motor!
P3D+:
AWD:
The construction of the link is different. It looks stronger to me as it doesn't rely on a welded tube for strength. All other part numbers except the spring are the same. I bet the link is needed to handle the incredible torque from the binned motor!
P3D+:
AWD:
I have the definitive answer! The P3D+ has different "fore links" than the AWD. @AlanSubie4Life was over and we checked.
The construction of the link is different. It looks stronger to me as it doesn't rely on a welded tube for strength. All other part numbers except the spring are the same. I bet the link is needed to handle the incredible torque from the binned motor!
P3D+:
View attachment 359642
AWD:
View attachment 359643
Okay, so based on the pictures you've provided the one on the AWD appears stronger to me than the one on the P3D+. The arm on the AWD appears to be a solid piece of bar stock, while the one on the P3D+ appears to be two pieces of half tube spot welded along a seam running the edge, thereby making a hollow "tube." Am I missing something?
On the first page of this thread, @Knightshade and @MountainPass discuss theories that the change was made to address crash test results. Perhaps the original arm was too stiff and a weaker arm design was required with the 20” Sport wheels in order to pass.
Daniel in SD
(supervised)
I'm not a mechanical engineer so It don't know which one is weaker. I feel like the performance one might be stronger since it doesn't rely on the weld strength. How could the rear wheels affect crash tests? It is quite a mystery!
I didn't bother trying to measure the length. I doubt I could measure them accurately enough without removing them.
AlanSubie4Life
Efficiency Obsessed Member
Maybe the new fore link is lighter to offset the weight of the boat anchors?
For the record, the P3D+ is an October build and the AWD is an August build. Though presumably this difference has nothing to do with build date, based on all available information.
For the record, the P3D+ is an October build and the AWD is an August build. Though presumably this difference has nothing to do with build date, based on all available information.
AlanSubie4Life
Efficiency Obsessed Member
But...the AWD link has welds at the ends, while the P3D+ link does not. It's an impasse! It's unclear to me what sort of loads this link would be subjected to.
Daniel in SD
(supervised)
Maybe they used two different designs so that you can tell them apart even if the sticker falls off. They're probably slightly different lengths.
I guess what I was thinking is that you can remove the welds from the P3D+ design and it would still function.
I guess what I was thinking is that you can remove the welds from the P3D+ design and it would still function.
No it wouldn't. Both halves of the pipe would bend if they weren't holding each other. Obviously, both are apparently strong enough. But based on looking at them I would be willing to be that the AWD one has more strength. Perhaps the P3D one is designed to be lighter?
RoBoRaT
PoPeYeD'SaiLoRDuDe
Maybe the new fore link is lighter to offset the weight of the boat anchors?
For the record, the P3D+ is an October build and the AWD is an August build. Though presumably this difference has nothing to do with build date, based on all available information.
FWIW,
My LR NP3D has the hollow/seam welded RR UPR FORE LINK ASSY.
Manufactured 11/18.
It is the same as the P3D above.
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