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Tesla Model 3 in Australia

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And when we change to daylight saving it ends up being 12am to 8am I believe, it doesn't know the change and it doesn't get external signals to change. I have heard of them being remotely controlled, but I am pretty certain mine isn't.

The analog ones (like mine here in Qld) are turned on and off by control tones superimposed on the supply, so the utility can gradually power up a neighbourhood's off-peak water heaters and EV chargers etc.. Not sure about the new ones.
 
Where do you check that?

Interested to know this as well. Can't find my estimated delivery date on my account page.

I think all people are doing is clicking through the links to Tesla Account > Manage > Edit Design and then you're in the configurator and it tells you car is available September... Same as if you configure a new one from the front page of the site.

I'm not sure it's meaningful tbh... Reality is getting car in August will probably depend on what's already been shipped here...
 
you go and hit the boost button any time it still charges an off peak rate

Awesome - maybe some duct tape and you have 7x24 J tariff.

I see nothing in the SA Power documentation I've read that says you can't have a 40A breaker on it, just that you can't legally draw more than 32A.

My controlled load ripple controller has 30Amps written on it so that would be the max for me without the risk of it self destructing.

electrician shouldn't wire something that would do it.

Agreed. I like to get as much info as possible so that I can buy the right gear and get it ready for the sparky. Research continues..

I did a LOT of searching for various z wave type and other wifi remotely controlled hard wired switches and cannot find anything (that is Aus certified) except the sonnof which does more than 10A, and most don't even do that much

I went down this path too. Started with zigbee / zwave - gave up.
How about using sonoff to control a 32Amp 230AC relay (230AC trigger). A solid state one would do ... KSA240AC8 75-240v 40a Ac Solid State Relay | eBay

Realistically for the charger to be 'legally hardwired' it should be a DIN rail meter box one - but could still be controlled by the sonoff if it has a 230V coil. One with both an NO and NC contact will let you switch the one supply between either of the outlets. Heres a 25Amp one .... https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/non-latching-relays/7892727/ Struggling to find a > 32Amp one!
 
With the model S I cant get anything larger than a 16mb usb to save dashcam footage. I’m not overly computer literate, but your plans possibly may not work. But if you have a solution for more than 16mb I’m interested, as the sentry mode seems to store every passing vehicle and pedestrian, and it doesnt self delete, so I have to take it to the pc weekly and clear the drive to make dashcam work

Looking at the docs in cimryan/teslausb it would quite likely do what you need, even with a bit of customising to regularly clear out some of the allocated 16GB (assume you mean GB not MB) to somewhere else safe. Unless you are a bit familiar with Linux it may be tough work though ...
 
My controlled load ripple controller has 30Amps written on it so that would be the max for me without the risk of it self destructing.

Mine is just a digital meter, but must have a clock inbuilt, sounds quite different to yours. And mine says something stupid like 100A max from memory.

Awesome - maybe some duct tape and you have 7x24 J tariff.

I think it runs for 1-2 hours when boost is pressed, then you'd have to press it again. I did consider a servo to push it every hour :)
The new smart meter will be interesting though, it is supposed to charge normal rate when you press the button but actually I really wonder if it will given it is separate to the main meter. Means they'd have to have two counters on it, and add one to the counter on the main meter. Might happen, we'll see.

Realistically for the charger to be 'legally hardwired' it should be a DIN rail meter box one - but could still be controlled by the sonoff if it has a 230V coil. One with both an NO and NC contact will let you switch the one supply between either of the outlets. Heres a 25Amp one .... 22.32.0.230.4520 | Finder SP-NO/NC Non-Latching Relay DIN Rail, 240V ac Coil, 25 A | RS Components Struggling to find a > 32Amp one!

I might message you privately about this more, rather than fill up this thread with stuff most people don't want to know about
.
 
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I got 3 phase power installed in preparation for my model 3 when undertaking some renovations. I had no idea about what I needed other than lots of power. I’ve got one of those big plugs you see for caravans installed in my garage now. How can I find out what amperage it is and if it’s not the highest, is it easy to increase?
 
I got 3 phase power installed in preparation for my model 3 when undertaking some renovations. I had no idea about what I needed other than lots of power. I’ve got one of those big plugs you see for caravans installed in my garage now. How can I find out what amperage it is and if it’s not the highest, is it easy to increase?

Check the socket - if it does not say then just take a picture and post it. Check the breaker in your box. It will be the new one that is three together (they may share one switch across all 3). It will, however be higher than the socket rating. Check you invoice from the electrician.

Easy to increase? If your main supply can do it then you would sill probably need to replace the breaker, wiring to the socket and the socket. This depends on the setup but it is likely all 3 were matched. You might be lucky with the cable it they overrated it.
 
I got 3 phase power installed in preparation for my model 3 when undertaking some renovations. I had no idea about what I needed other than lots of power. I’ve got one of those big plugs you see for caravans installed in my garage now. How can I find out what amperage it is and if it’s not the highest, is it easy to increase?

You'd get an electrician to hard wire the proper Tesla wall connector instead of using a socket to connect it. It sounds likely it would be a very quick job if it can be installed next to that socket or instead of it.
Or you could use the portable charger that comes with the car, plus some adaptor to suit your plug, but it won't charge as fast or using 3 phase as the portable charger is single phase only.
 
I got 3 phase power installed in preparation for my model 3 when undertaking some renovations. I had no idea about what I needed other than lots of power. I’ve got one of those big plugs you see for caravans installed in my garage now. How can I find out what amperage it is and if it’s not the highest, is it easy to increase?
I’m doing the same with a plug in the garage instead of "hard wiring" it in.

The model 3 has its own limitations for current to the on board inverter. I think it’s 16amps, so a 20mamp 3 phase plug is all you going to need anyway. The next one up is 32 as far as I know. I’m asking my electrician to wire a 3 phase plug to the HWC so it’s easier to replace / move / sell if I need to.
 
Me too. You can just use a 3 phase socket wired into the Tesla HPC. Sounds like a good plan.
Other than paying $150+ for a socket, plug and some flex that you'll probably never unplug. And the labour. And the extra ugly stuff on the wall.

But yes, you get some flexibility if you want to plug in a welder or something.

Also worth noting that the HPWC will charge any modern EV - not just Teslas.

If you're getting the electrical work done now just get them to put an isolator on the wall where you want the HPWC (which is legally required anyway).
 
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I rent. the landlord has given me permission to install a HPWC and I will have to remove it at the end of the tenancy which may be year away or may be next year.

Suggestions on methods to install it so it is as easy to remove as possible?

As my post above, you'll need to put in an isolator anyway. You can then unwire the HPWC and cap the outlet of the isolator when you go.

If you put in a three phase socket you could leave without re-hiring an electrician though.
 
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